The Stupid Question Thread

[jinx758]

@ tissyfit ...

Good job on rewire !

Popping on acceleration is usually too lean or vacuum leak & on deceleration is normally an exhaust leak.

Carburetor linkage & air/fuel syncing is fiddly.
Tons of YT vids, some better than others.

1641cc, dual carbs, & cam - you should start a dedicated thread in the '68&Up or Performance section as you will likely get more views from highly experienced people.

Good luck ... stay safe

jinx
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" It's not valuable unless you learn something from an experience. " Henry Ford

It's not unlike the same difference

You can't push a rope


VALVES (cold)
POINTS
TIMING
CARB (fully warmed engine)

SCRAPE ALL GROUNDS

My Craigslist rescued 100 footer :
1971 Standard Bug
1776cc dual port
034 distributor
38mm EGAS Carburetor

[Cusser]

[tissyfit]

Another stupid question. I did finally get the rewire on my 74 VW Beetle complete and it started WHOOHOOO! Now it backfires constantly. Made a mistake and had someone try to adjust carbs (way worse!) I am doing spark plugs distributor cap and all. the engine isn't the stock it has a 1641cc duel Solex 40 carbs and a racing camshaft. Is there anything I should know before starting on everything? I have never worked on a beetle air cooled. Scary! but I never thought I would be able to rewire a car either but I did. I have watched a lot of videos bought a timing light and going to buy a snail for carb adjust. I don't know anyone near me to give me pointers or tips. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Now just wait for parts to show up and my next days off work.
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New at this vw stuff. Any knowledge is helpful knowledge is power!

[busman78]

Are you asking if a Type 4 based engine can be put in you Beetle the answer is yes. Is it an easy swap? Sort of, it is a costly swap. Will all your tin, manifold, exhaust from you Beetle fit? Nope.

The Type 4 engine can be converted to an upright cooled system like the Type 1, the articles Cusser directed you to will provide lots of answers you need. Plus there is good reading on this site and Shop Talk Forums, just search Converting Type 4 Engine To Upright, or similar words, that should get you heading into a very dark world. I have done the conversion and my best guess in todays dollars all the bits and pieces will set you back about $3,500.00 +/-.

[HATERMOE]

Not sure what you’re trying to say or get at??? I think it’s a simple question???

[Cusser]

[HATERMOE]

Will a type 2 1700 engine block work for an engine build for my 1974 vw super beetle, I tried to find differences but I couldn’t can someone help?? And before you jump at me yes I searched the search engine and no one has asked this befor.

[Cusser]

I'd check the toe in first. You can do this with a measuring tape and a helper. Pretty much the front of the tires should measure 1/8" less than at the rear; measure from the first "channel" from the outside of the tire tread.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[vamram]

Doing a routine brake inspection on my '73 Super, I discovered the front tires were shot. Looks like the shop I took it to for an alignment last summer after I replaced the front tie rods and ball joints f'd up the front alignment. Car doesn't pull and tracks straight so I figured all was good after I left the shop. Both front tires have worn out in the exact same pattern - on the inside. As the car sits on the ground it looks like outer 50% of the tire doesn't even contact the ground!!! Damn tires had at least 10k left on them too.

Question I have is - can I adjust this myself by rotating the camber bolt on the inner end of the control arms?

Thanks.
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Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!!

[Sloanstavern]

[quote="mikeonthebike"]

[Sloanstavern]

[EVfun]

[mikeonthebike]

[Sloanstavern]

This windshield was in the bug when I bought it and for the life of me, I can’t figure it out. Those snowflake patterns are in between the glass panes and look like they’re there on purpose.

How on earth could something like that be sold? Anyone ever see something like that?

[Sloanstavern]

I am working my way through the install of a universal painless, wiring harness. So far so good . I do have a question about the brake light switches on the master cylinder. I have three leads coming from the switches bundle together into three bayonet connectors. However, my painless harness only has a power feed and a return for the bake switch. Based on the schematic, it looks like one set of wires from the switches, feeds power to the lights, ( red/black 81) which I don’t need since that will come from the new fuse block. The other two must be power and ground, does that sound right? Thanks

74 super beetle

[vamram]

[ltjohnb]

[Sloanstavern]

[vamram]

The plastic box is an expansion tank for fumes my guess is that the fumes possibly condense in there and return the tank or get blown back to the charcoal canister behind the rear wheel. Someone who understands these things better can pipe in.
_________________
Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!!

[EVfun]

Has anyone mapped out what each of those lines does? I know the large hose is to vent the tank while filling it. I’d love to understand the purpose of the rest of the small lines.

The plastic vapor box with 4 small hose barbs often breaks, and the evap system was never inspected in WA. We used to connect together the lines at the left rear of the tank and run the small hose off the large vent line around past the spot for the vapor box and down the left side to the front of the tank, ending it below the tank under the car like 1961-1967 Bugs.
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