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Malokin Martin
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2017 6:59 pm    Post subject: Re: Rotisserie Reply with quote

Could someone give me a bit of advice? We're about to take the plunge and remove the running gear.

1.) If we used 2.5 in. OD 0.105 thickness ROUND pipe for the rotisserie, are we loosing significant strength vs the same thickness SQUARE? (Same Half tipper version as the post directly above). Like should we be concerned with the round? My friend has a pile laying around he's willing to donate for free.

2.) if we're doing strictly the lower frame/flooring (underside only) would it be ok to use mild/low pressure sand? I know walnut is better, but it's bonkers more expensive.

Thanks in advance!
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cdennisg
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2016 9:19 am    Post subject: Re: Rotisserie Reply with quote

sgellis wrote:

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This is 100% pure excellence. Well done!
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EverettB Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2016 8:30 am    Post subject: Re: Rotisserie Reply with quote

EverettB wrote:
Malokin Martin wrote:
Could you see if Everett would host the PDF here? It's rare that someone takes the time to write it out like that.


I can add it to the Archives - email it to me!


It's up:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/bus_rotisserie/VWBus_Rotisserie.pdf

I will add it to the first post in this thread as well
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sgellis
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2016 4:09 am    Post subject: Re: Rotisserie Reply with quote

j.pickens wrote:
Really nice. This design is perfect. The low profile dollies which can be moved to any of the flat angles are very cool.

When you rotate onto or off of the dollies, is there a way to stabilize or hold them in place?
That could be a delicate maneuver, especially if you are by yourself doing the rotating.

Also, did you add clamps to attach to the roof gutters? I would think that they would help stabilize things.


Thanks!

I roll the bus up a little so the rollers will slide under part way. Let the bus back onto the roller and use my foot to push on the roller and pull on the frame to centre it. Easy once you get the hang of it. I always rotate from the rear frame. A stripped bus is not very heavy.

I didn't add anything to the drip rail. Front has lots of clearance, rear about 2". There is some bounce in the frame but not enough to hit the drip rail. Thought about adding some bracing to the inside of the loop to stop the flex but I don't notice it at all while working.

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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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j.pickens
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2016 1:25 am    Post subject: Re: Rotisserie Reply with quote

Really nice. This design is perfect. The low profile dollies which can be moved to any of the flat angles are very cool.

When you rotate onto or off of the dollies, is there a way to stabilize or hold them in place?
That could be a delicate maneuver, especially if you are by yourself doing the rotating.

Also, did you add clamps to attach to the roof gutters? I would think that they would help stabilize things.
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2016 4:44 pm    Post subject: Re: Rotisserie Reply with quote

Malokin Martin wrote:
Could you see if Everett would host the PDF here? It's rare that someone takes the time to write it out like that.


I can add it to the Archives - email it to me!
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Malokin Martin
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2016 3:32 pm    Post subject: Re: Rotisserie Reply with quote

Could you see if Everett would host the PDF here? It's rare that someone takes the time to write it out like that.
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Peter_N
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2016 12:43 pm    Post subject: Re: Rotisserie Reply with quote

Nice design Sgellis! And cool to share all the detailed building plans Applause
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sgellis
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2016 8:39 am    Post subject: Re: Rotisserie Reply with quote

Thought I would share my rotisserie design. It is based on some others from this thread.

I wanted easy access to the bottom of my bus but not have a frame in the way when working on the sides. Also wanted something cheap that I could easily build. So this is my 1/3 rotisserie that can be switched from side to side.

I can role it by myself once I figured out the tricks. Also built some rollers to help moving it around from 3" channel iron and angle with some cheap casters. Larger casters with locks would be better. Keeping the channel close to the floor makes it easy to use. I just tip the bus up a bit and slide them under the rotisserie.

I am very happy with how it works. Makes life much easier. I would hate to try this project without a way to roll the bus.

If anyone wants a PDF of the plans PM me.
Update: Link to Rotisserie PDF

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2016 4:41 pm    Post subject: Re: Rotisserie Reply with quote

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2016 4:34 pm    Post subject: Re: Rotisserie Reply with quote

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https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=0-PSeV52tZ4&si=wpcuRnQyvIFo2nCJ
https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=PaCorLXzC5w&si=cbzT8fjlzVlIWfSV
https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=_aoE5aYSutY&si=mkZKPxd_41QA1kfs
https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=_NzUyyVexAE&feature=share
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earlywesty
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 4:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Peter_N wrote:
Finished my rotisserie yesterday Cool
I tried to keep it as simple as possible and because almost all the welding has been done I could place the front hoop around the doors. I'm solely going to use the rotisserie to sandblast the undercarriage and paint it afterwards (most likely completely sand green)
Although I did hesitate a bit to leave the doors in (because of weight) in the end I left them in and strapped them together.
I was inspired by JOGR's simple design wherein the U-beam used to make the hoops acts as a rail for the wheels.
The hoops are connected to the bus using a 1/3" thick steel plate on the front axle bolt holes and rear torsion beam.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

If I found some heavy steal beams in the future I maybe gonna replace the wooden beams, but for now it works great. The wooden slats will be connected to keep everything square.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Both hoops are connected to eachother over the roof as this is the most wobbly part of the hoops. The downside of using U-beams in stead of square tubing for the hoops is the poor axial stiffness. I just jammed some foam pads between the roof and the hoops, but for what I can see now, that's not even necessary.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Really enjoyed building it. If someone needs dimensions I'll be happy to provide them.

Peter


I want one of these style so bad. If anybody finishes with one and wants to part with it please let me know.
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Spitty1974
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2015 5:51 pm    Post subject: Height Question Reply with quote

Hi,
I'm building a dolly system/rotisserie for my bus and I want to have the option of being able to flip it over 45 degree angle if I decide to do that later. As of now, I'm trying to get it high off the ground so it is easier to work on underneath. I may only need to keep it that way, but want the option down the road to tilt it.

I'm sort of following the example on this thread that is on a double cab.

My questions are as follow:

My over all height for my casters are 6 inches with the plates bolted on top of the caster. I'm using 2 inch square tubing. I'm going to run a 66 inch piece of 2x2 inch sq tubing under the bus in a horizontal position and both ends are cut at a 45 degree angle. The tubing will sit on the caster plates I made and I will weld the tube to the plates.

What is the max length I can go for the two vertical posts that will join to the tube that rests on the casters and then be welded up to the plate that gets bolted to the beam plates I made?

I measured my garage and the max I can go is 20 inches above the caster plates. In your opinion, for people who have built or used a tilt version, what is the max length of the vertical posts above the caster? The higher I go, will it be problematic if I decide to tilt it down the road?

I really wanted to make the round rotisserie for my bus, but I just don't have the height in the my current garage set up. I'm building workshop down the road that will have the height, but that is down the road.

I included a pic that shows what the horizontal and vertical tubes position and what they will look like once welded (they are not the exact pieces, just scraps for an illustration).

Thank you for any suggestions and or help.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 2:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

western auto wrote:
VW Bus Single Cab Rotisserie Welding a Bus: http://youtu.be/FzPzO6ECh8c


FYI. The poster before you has the starring role in that video. Very Happy
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western auto
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

VW Bus Single Cab Rotisserie Welding a Bus: http://youtu.be/FzPzO6ECh8c
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2014 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellent!!!!!!!!!!
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2014 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finished my rotisserie yesterday Cool
I tried to keep it as simple as possible and because almost all the welding has been done I could place the front hoop around the doors. I'm solely going to use the rotisserie to sandblast the undercarriage and paint it afterwards (most likely completely sand green)
Although I did hesitate a bit to leave the doors in (because of weight) in the end I left them in and strapped them together.
I was inspired by JOGR's simple design wherein the U-beam used to make the hoops acts as a rail for the wheels.
The hoops are connected to the bus using a 1/3" thick steel plate on the front axle bolt holes and rear torsion beam.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

If I found some heavy steal beams in the future I maybe gonna replace the wooden beams, but for now it works great. The wooden slats will be connected to keep everything square.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Both hoops are connected to eachother over the roof as this is the most wobbly part of the hoops. The downside of using U-beams in stead of square tubing for the hoops is the poor axial stiffness. I just jammed some foam pads between the roof and the hoops, but for what I can see now, that's not even necessary.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Really enjoyed building it. If someone needs dimensions I'll be happy to provide them.

Peter
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2014 10:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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A couple pics of the rotisserie
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jmunster
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 10, 2014 10:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If anyone is looking for a simple solution to a rotisserie as a tool to help them restore a bus then look no further than the original post. Awesome,simple, quick. Just remember your angle has to be dead on. I chose to make my dodecadon out of 2x2x1/8 and the supports out of 3/16. STRONG. I also added supports at 90 degrees down from the mounting plates and decided that cutting the multigons in half was not necessary. It took me 19 hours and under $150 in steel. Now I can get to business without lying on the ground. Thanks for the idea.
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 6:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the help with the measurements, I appreciate it!

If I feel my version is worthy of this thread, I will post some pictures once it is completed.
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