Wheel studs or hub stripped, seeking advice.

[dkoesyncro]

I had a dragging noise coming from my front brakes so I thought I’d investigate. The lugs were stubborn but the nuts came off with a crack and dust airborne. One even smelt hot, slid the wheel off and reached in to look at the pads and with hand on stud, loose….hmm wtf! Oh my all 5 and one spins freely, fortunately this happened at home and the wheel came off without to much trouble.

So now, the Uber rare syncro parts are drying up. Could these studs be tacked to the hub? Do I thread them and swap to lug bolts?

Lastly, this is my syncro van. I use it and by some probably abuse it. I always give it love though![/img]


Edit: looks like epytec sells them according to Google but the website is very difficult to navigate


Edit 2: looks like I can go slightly larger on the knurl of the studs. The OG measured 14.76, when I pull the hub I will clean, hone and measure the bores.

[MarkWard]

Contact Christopher at T3 Technique. He will likely know what you need. I don’t remember how much access you have to remove the studs or tack weld them in. If you have to pull the hub, it will destroy the front bearing.
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[IdahoDoug]

Pretty sure when I replaced a loose front stud on my Syncro, there was a spot to rotate the hub to that allowed me to pound it out with the hub mounted on the vehicle. It was tight but doable IIRC.
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[Howesight]

I replaced my front Syncro studs with longer ones from T-3 techniques ( I use wheel spacers). The T-3 studs were already slightly larger diameter at the knurl than the factory VW units that I removed and measured. I was replacing the front wheel bearings at the time, so I was able to use my press to press in the studs.

In past, I have never been able to successfully install knurled studs with a hammer - - this appeared to damage the stud, the receiving hole, and my dignity.

If your front hub stud receiving holes are somewhat worn, you will probably find that Loctite Stud and Bearing mount will work nicely. I have had great success with it over the years.
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'86 Syncro Westy SVX

[a914622]

Just fyi. The studs out of a 1999-2004 ford superduty are just a little bigger on the knurled end and the are longer. Same metric 14mm. Depending on how far yours have been oversized this might be your fix.

I put a set in the rear hubs for a brake conversion. The holes were over sized to the point the factory studs spun freely. The ford studs were tight and gave it the Porsche racing look!!

Good luck
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87 gl powerd buy 2.5subaru
75 914 getting 2.2t subaru scratch that SVX subaru

[dkoesyncro]

[zerotofifty]

I had a wheel stud snap on my Jeep upon nut removal. Since then I use ample amounts of antiseize on the threads and on the nut's chamfer to prevent sticking and corrosion.

Once repaired, use lots of antiseize to prevent reoccurrence of this.

Yes wheel studs can be tacked with a welder if you dont want to press it out and press in a new one.

Again, use Anti Seize. You is lucky this didnt happen far from home when you need to install a spare tire. Short of using an impact wrench, you may not have gotten the nut off without spinning the stud.

You is lucky this time

Note, beware of trying locktite to hold the stud. If you are on a dark rainy road with a flat tire and need to install the spare, and that locktited stud spins on you, well you aint getting that wheel off, and you will be stuck with a flat tire you cant exchange. Weld it. Again.... Antiseize on the threads and the nut chamfer!

Anti Seize my friend, Anti Seize!!!!
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Give peace a chance. No American war with Russia!

[dkoesyncro]

In respect to a window to push the studs out it’s closest around 10-11:00. I think the flanges on these might be larger than OEM. I could cut a side off the stud flange or pocket out a spot on the knuckle but….nope! It probably wouldn’t be enough for the new studs to go back in and would provably end up taking a ride on the endless modifications Merry-go-round of insanity to fix this.

I scraped at the knurling to find they stripped or flattened, I’m prized to say a little give and take between the hub and the knurl.

So, tack it is the plan now. I will clean, scrub and tack. I hope to inject some 634 in the front afterwards as added measure.

[zerotofifty]

You know that many studs can be bought with slightly oversized knurls for repair situations where the hub has been opened up.
But welding is a great solution.


Again,... Use AntiSeize on the threads and nut chamfer.
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Give peace a chance. No American war with Russia!

[MarkWard]

Who installed the studs from T3?
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[dkoesyncro]

I did, about 8-10 years ago. Used the press at work.
Do you see something?

[MarkWard]

The splines in the above picture looked pretty flattened. It’s an interference fit, but maybe dimensions weren’t correct. Using a press is fine, but you wouldn’t really feel if the stud was too tight going in.
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[IdahoDoug]

Good point on the flattened splines. Also tha above advice to put antisieze on the tapered surface of the lugnut is incorrect. Never put antisieze between the nut and wheel contact faces. This critical juncture is meant to be clean and dry and free of dirt to prevent the wheel from loosening.
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[dkoesyncro]

It’s all tacked up and to my detriment it’s a driving style issue! This is from launching out of the pit wheels airborne at MF and landing hard….abuse, I will call syncro services department on myself.

[MarkWard]

Ouch. The hubs were NLA for quite a while. Glad you have access. I find our van handles and brakes better with 4 full contact patches.
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