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Normal PSI compression numbers
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DesertSasquatchXploration
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2024 11:39 pm    Post subject: Normal PSI compression numbers Reply with quote

I recently ditched my 34pict for a single 40 IDF on my 1776 stocker 100 cam built by Brothers in Ontario in 2019 just rolled over 50k. Today I pulled along side another bug we were talking at the stop light he had a 1776 with 34 ICT's. At the light we went for it, I pulled ahead pretty easily and left him in the dust. I decided to do a compression test never done one on this motor or had the need to. 165 throttle open and 150 closed that seems really high. This was with the plugs in. Did it again cold same numbers. I'm was thinking about some heads from Steve Tim's and bump up the compression but... Now i'm thinking leave it alone. What are the stock compression numbers? Is my engine already at 8:1 to 8.5:1 so much for a (stocker)
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Dusty1
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2024 5:08 am    Post subject: Re: Normal PSI compression numbers Reply with quote

"If it ain't broke don't fix it."

If you have Tims heads in your future, buy 'em. Murphy's Law of parts on the shelf states the parts they're intended to replace last longer if you CYA.

Do your compression test plugs out next time. 20,000 miles down the road do it again. Time to rebuild your engine is when one or more cylinders fall off. Install your Tims heads when you rebuild.

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jpaull
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2024 5:46 am    Post subject: Re: Normal PSI compression numbers Reply with quote

165psi is awesome. You have way more then stock.
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vwracerdave
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2024 6:31 am    Post subject: Re: Normal PSI compression numbers Reply with quote

You always do a compression test with the engine hot, carbs wide open, and all plugs removed.

The numbers on your gauge really don't mean anything. Those cheap $30-$40 auto store gauges are not accurate or calibrated to anything. They could be 20-50 PSI off. All that matters is that all 4 cylinders have less than 10% difference.

I wouldn't bother getting new heads until you can also add dual IDF's, and a bigger cam, which means a complete tear down and rebuild.
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Alstrup
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2024 7:33 am    Post subject: Re: Normal PSI compression numbers Reply with quote

jpaull wrote:
165psi is awesome. You have way more then stock.

Yeah, it sounds quite high for the combo. Even with 8,5 CR and that cam I would expect something like 125ish. Maybe try a different gauge to verify
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Zed999
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2024 9:11 am    Post subject: Re: Normal PSI compression numbers Reply with quote

Alstrup wrote:

Yeah, it sounds quite high for the combo. Even with 8,5 CR and that cam I would expect something like 125ish. Maybe try a different gauge to verify

I have almost the same CR and the same cranking psi with a stock cam.
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nsracing
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2024 12:45 pm    Post subject: Re: Normal PSI compression numbers Reply with quote

If you got 150 lbs pressures on each cylinder, I suggest you go back to whoever built you the motor and buy them lunch for entire week!

..and tell them you want to adopt them. Laughing

That is a good build - I built many and people are happy when they see them numbers at pick up/ delivery.

Enjoy -
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DesertSasquatchXploration
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2024 2:13 pm    Post subject: Re: Normal PSI compression numbers Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I guess it was 2020. I walked in with nothing but 3K in cash 4 days later it was done. As41 case never been lined bored (that's what they said) did a three angle valve job and beefed up the rocker arms with spacers and solid shafts along with the 100 cam. Just a long block I used my old shroud and bought the other stuff from car craft and pacific customs. I guess the case was going to be built for a turbo setup and the guy bailed. I was at the right place at the right time with cash. Got lucky Think

Would 1.25 rockers be worth it? Car Craft has good prices I can pick some up.
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nsracing
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2024 4:22 pm    Post subject: Re: Normal PSI compression numbers Reply with quote

w/ them 1.25 rockers just give me the money. At least one of us will be happy.

Save your money - they are worthless. One thing- get the solid rocker shafts i if you don't already have them.

Other than that, there is not much else left for improvement. You can ruin an masterpiece painting w// just one more brush stroke. So DON't! Laughing
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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2024 4:39 pm    Post subject: Re: Normal PSI compression numbers Reply with quote

I'd say you did really good.
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DesertSasquatchXploration
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2024 5:02 pm    Post subject: Re: Normal PSI compression numbers Reply with quote

Yes I have solid rocker shafts. Been changing oil every 1800K with VR1 and use a Ford FL1A or WIX oil filter. Ill leave it alone and keep doing what works maintenance wise. It's been a reliable solo desert exploration motor.

I've been tempted to use the Kendall Gt1, I did it once but felt like a Trader. I changed it early and felt like dirty sinner couldn't get my hands clean. I'm a Valvoline guy.

I had a 65 mustang in HS I used Castrol, Quaker state and some other cheap oil all lost like 15psi of oil pressure after one week. I used Valvoline it only went down 3psi after several weeks. I drove that car hard been a fan boy ever since.
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nsracing
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2024 3:35 am    Post subject: Re: Normal PSI compression numbers Reply with quote

One thing that always was lacking in our aircooled motors, is a better breathing system.

A better case ventilation has always been lacking. The original motor breather was fine for the stock configuration. But who has stock motor anymore? Laughing

I have been meaning to TIG weld some breathers. One of these days I may have time to machine some nipples and weld up some units.

And the Stainless Steel sidewinder exhaust is another welcome addition. That is a nice exhaust lasting forever.
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DesertSasquatchXploration
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2024 3:08 pm    Post subject: Re: Normal PSI compression numbers Reply with quote

vwracerdave wrote:
You always do a compression test with the engine hot, carbs wide open, and all plugs removed.

The numbers on your gauge really don't mean anything. Those cheap $30-$40 auto store gauges are not accurate or calibrated to anything. They could be 20-50 PSI off. All that matters is that all 4 cylinders have less than 10% difference.

I wouldn't bother getting new heads until you can also add dual IDF's, and a bigger cam, which means a complete tear down and rebuild.


My compression gauge was issued to my grandpa in the marines and had a calibration sticker from 1955. So I'm fairly confident its at least somewhat accurate. Sure as shit ain't off by 50psi, but A+ on the gaslighting attempt. I find it really hard to believe the cheap gauges are off by 50psi.
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oprn
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2024 4:11 pm    Post subject: Re: Normal PSI compression numbers Reply with quote

50psi off on a 200 or 300psi gauge is a lot. I think you would see that as it would be on the zero side of the scale. To be 50psi off on linearity would be highly unlikely even with the cheapest of gauges. It would have to over pressured badly, then the face taken off and reset back to zero. A bulged or kinked bourbon tube would be your clue if you took it apart.
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rugblaster
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2024 4:52 pm    Post subject: Re: Normal PSI compression numbers Reply with quote

nsracing wrote:
One thing that always was lacking in our aircooled motors, is a better breathing system.

A better case ventilation has always been lacking. The original motor breather was fine for the stock configuration. But who has stock motor anymore? Laughing

I have been meaning to TIG weld some breathers. One of these days I may have time to machine some nipples and weld up some units.

And the Stainless Steel sidewinder exhaust is another welcome addition. That is a nice exhaust lasting forever.



Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.






I built this one out of some part that came out of an oxygen concentrator. Stuffed it with copper Brillo pads, ran both valve covers, the oil filler neck and the fuel pump hole to it, added a breather filter and wa-la, a big ass breather.

Not proud of the welding. The can refused to cooperate, seemed like dirty metal, a piece of 1 1/2 alumnum tube and the top plate went a little better.
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