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calvinater Samba Member
Joined: September 06, 2014 Posts: 3412 Location: 802 The Pointless Forrest
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Posted: Sat Apr 06, 2024 4:49 am Post subject: metal buildings |
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Looking to erect a 30x40 building for the boy to use as a shop.
Anyone have experience with erecting your own?
Were you happy with the end result?
Any reccomended manufacturers?
Thanks _________________ "Albatross"! |
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Bulli Klinik Samba Member
Joined: January 16, 2005 Posts: 2134 Location: Bulli Klinik, Colorado Springs
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Posted: Sat Apr 06, 2024 8:03 am Post subject: Re: metal buildings |
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I erected a quonset hut a couple of years ago. I farmed out the finish work on the foundation and friend and I did the rest of the work. I got a really good deal on a used shell and we built the rest.
_________________ I've never met a Bus I didn't like.
Mike K
Bulli Klinik
Colorado Springs |
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nsracing Samba Member
Joined: November 16, 2003 Posts: 9588 Location: NOVA
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Posted: Wed Apr 24, 2024 4:02 am Post subject: Re: metal buildings |
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Nice metal! Maybe double that size and triple will do me just fine in the middle of the desert.
But I am more traditional - i like old firestations and make them like workshop. Plenty properties like that. |
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kingkarmann Samba Member
Joined: November 05, 2003 Posts: 4196
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Posted: Wed Apr 24, 2024 10:03 am Post subject: Re: metal buildings |
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calvinater wrote: |
Looking to erect a 30x40 building for the boy to use as a shop.
Anyone have experience with erecting your own?
Were you happy with the end result?
Any reccomended manufacturers?
Thanks |
Versitube
https://www.versatube.com/building-kits/garages-buildings/
I have been looking in an RV Port.
Not the cheapest but the ones I have looked at are well engineered. |
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typ914 Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2012 Posts: 231 Location: Atlanta, Ga
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Posted: Wed Apr 24, 2024 12:24 pm Post subject: Re: metal buildings |
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Not me but a friend built a 60 x 100 metal building. He built his house in side the first quarter of it with the front looking like a normal house. The rest of the building was his workshop. A contractor working on a house next to his property saw the set up and loved it. The guy made an offer he couldn't refuse and he sold it to him before he moved in. Doing a building like that is part of my retirement plan! |
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Dusty1 Samba Member
Joined: April 16, 2004 Posts: 1692
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Posted: Fri Apr 26, 2024 6:32 am Post subject: Re: metal buildings |
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Bought a Morton building 30 years ago and would do it again.
New England Caveat:
20' x 50' is about all you want to heat in the winter. If you're using it as a workshop don't go big and don't go tall. You can work in a tin shed in Texas, Arizona or New Mexico. Working in a tin shed in Vermont in January is almost as miserable as wallowing in the snow outside tryin' to start a soggy and hard to light diesel.
My late brother's place sold literally last week with the last gentleman's workshop I built. That one was wood over a structural steel frame, heavily insulated.
You can generally buy a big industrial space cheaper than you can build one.
First thing every woodchuck up north builds is a workshop big enough to accommodate their log truck and their skidder. Economy takes its inevitable downturn and the bank gets it.
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calvinater Samba Member
Joined: September 06, 2014 Posts: 3412 Location: 802 The Pointless Forrest
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Posted: Fri Apr 26, 2024 4:23 pm Post subject: Re: metal buildings |
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Went with a Future Buildings 30x 48 fully insulated and delivered, 28k.
Next up site prep.
any tips on radiantt heat tubing? _________________ "Albatross"! |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51962 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Fri Apr 26, 2024 4:40 pm Post subject: Re: metal buildings |
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calvinater wrote: |
any tips on radiantt heat tubing? |
Map it out carefully and space it widely if possible, if holes in the floor for hoists and the like are required later it's good to know where you can drill safely. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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my59 Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2003 Posts: 3883 Location: connecting the dots
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Posted: Fri Apr 26, 2024 8:56 pm Post subject: Re: metal buildings |
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busdaddy wrote: |
calvinater wrote: |
any tips on radiantt heat tubing? |
Map it out carefully and space it widely if possible, if holes in the floor for hoists and the like are required later it's good to know where you can drill safely. |
Keep in mind radient floor heating takes time to warm up and cool down. EPS insulation under the slab works well, no need to heat the ground under, but you need to look at the PSI rating of the insulation so it doesn't crush under load of slab (dead load) and what you plan on putting on the slab (live load)
I'd be figuring out equipment being anchored to floor, and maybe thicken slab in the area and pattern the piping accordingly.
Pex tubing was used last time I did a place with radiant heating, and the Hvac engineer suggested a 6" slab to increase heated mass. There was a floor thermostat involved, and glycol? In the boiler water in case of power failure to make sure nothing froze. _________________ my59: Well son, my grandfather died before I got to drive it, so does that answer your question?
our79: sunroof bus w/camper interior and 2.0 FI
Other:'12 Jetta, '77 Benz 300D, and a 74 MG Midget. |
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4Gears4Tires Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2018 Posts: 3488 Location: MD
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Posted: Tue May 07, 2024 6:39 am Post subject: Re: metal buildings |
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I had a post frame construction built by Fetterville Sales, an Amish outfit. I did the excavation myself with a rented bobcat and I made sure to excavate down for 11-12 inches of concrete where the lift is going in. It is easy to do this now and will cost you... $50 extra in concrete? Literally a no brainer. Make sure you route your radiant floor PEX around the area the lift will go in so you have no chance of puncturing it with floor bolts.
The building, they put it up in 1 day
I insulated 18" down around the perimeter to insulate the soil underneath the garage.
Then I used insulated around the edges, 4 feet in. Note the notch in the insulation at the back because I wanted the extra dept for the lift. In the center, I used insulated vapor barrier. A big consideration with concrete in garages is rust. If you put a paint can on the concrete and leave it there, it will 100% rust over time. I wanted no moisture coming in from the ground so brake rotors or other exposed steel surface items would not rust. Having a dry not humid environment is amazing in the DC area.
The concrete guys, while cheap, were exactly what I paid for. They jerked me around on the schedule, didn't do everything they said they were going to do, and left the surface unfinished. Because of their shitty scheduling, I wasn't able to spend the proper time routing the pex and I ended up with about 1/4 of my pex left over. I had used a pex calculator to properly size the loop. I am mad about this and I should have spent more money. Life lesson learned. Never pay your contractors until they do the job they say, because they will take your money and disappear. It does work, it uses quite a bit of power to heat the garage. However, if the garage is 70F, then the floor is 82-85F. Which makes my feet sweat. So I installed a minisplit system to heat/cool the garage and keep the floor around 50F. This is perfect imo. My feet don't get cold or sweat like crazy and the air temp is comfy. A really nice thing about the insulated slab and low temp radiant heat is I'm not on a cold concrete floor that saps the heat out of me anymore! BTDT too long, also why I got a lift.
I used an all in one radiant floor heater. It made plumbing it up easy.
And of course, as soon as it was up and running (and even before the concrete went in) it was getting used thoroughly
_________________ '87 Syncro Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition
'85 Westy Sciuridae Domus Edition |
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calvinater Samba Member
Joined: September 06, 2014 Posts: 3412 Location: 802 The Pointless Forrest
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Posted: Tue May 07, 2024 11:47 am Post subject: Re: metal buildings |
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4Gears4Tires wrote: |
I had a post frame construction built by Fetterville Sales, an Amish outfit. I did the excavation myself with a rented bobcat and I made sure to excavate down for 11-12 inches of concrete where the lift is going in. It is easy to do this now and will cost you... $50 extra in concrete? Literally a no brainer. Make sure you route your radiant floor PEX around the area the lift will go in so you have no chance of puncturing it with floor bolts.
The building, they put it up in 1 day
I insulated 18" down around the perimeter to insulate the soil underneath the garage.
Then I used insulated around the edges, 4 feet in. Note the notch in the insulation at the back because I wanted the extra dept for the lift. In the center, I used insulated vapor barrier. A big consideration with concrete in garages is rust. If you put a paint can on the concrete and leave it there, it will 100% rust over time. I wanted no moisture coming in from the ground so brake rotors or other exposed steel surface items would not rust. Having a dry not humid environment is amazing in the DC area.
The concrete guys, while cheap, were exactly what I paid for. They jerked me around on the schedule, didn't do everything they said they were going to do, and left the surface unfinished. Because of their shitty scheduling, I wasn't able to spend the proper time routing the pex and I ended up with about 1/4 of my pex left over. I had used a pex calculator to properly size the loop. I am mad about this and I should have spent more money. Life lesson learned. Never pay your contractors until they do the job they say, because they will take your money and disappear. It does work, it uses quite a bit of power to heat the garage. However, if the garage is 70F, then the floor is 82-85F. Which makes my feet sweat. So I installed a minisplit system to heat/cool the garage and keep the floor around 50F. This is perfect imo. My feet don't get cold or sweat like crazy and the air temp is comfy. A really nice thing about the insulated slab and low temp radiant heat is I'm not on a cold concrete floor that saps the heat out of me anymore! BTDT too long, also why I got a lift.
I used an all in one radiant floor heater. It made plumbing it up easy.
And of course, as soon as it was up and running (and even before the concrete went in) it was getting used thoroughly
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how big is that building, is that a gasfired heater? _________________ "Albatross"! |
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calvinater Samba Member
Joined: September 06, 2014 Posts: 3412 Location: 802 The Pointless Forrest
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Posted: Tue May 07, 2024 11:54 am Post subject: Re: metal buildings |
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site work started today, should be ready to form up the slab by the weekend.
any tips on eps foam thatat is not cost prohibited.
shaving off the high spots and filling in the low spots.
nsr no abandoned firestations round here
this is gonna be fun!!!! _________________ "Albatross"! |
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calvinater Samba Member
Joined: September 06, 2014 Posts: 3412 Location: 802 The Pointless Forrest
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Posted: Tue May 07, 2024 11:55 am Post subject: Re: metal buildings |
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remember this all for the Boy! _________________ "Albatross"! |
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4Gears4Tires Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2018 Posts: 3488 Location: MD
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Posted: Wed May 08, 2024 7:08 am Post subject: Re: metal buildings |
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32x24, 768sqft. It is an electric heater. Gas would be a lot cheaper, but my house does not have gas. https://www.nextgenboiler.com/products/ _________________ '87 Syncro Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition
'85 Westy Sciuridae Domus Edition |
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nsracing Samba Member
Joined: November 16, 2003 Posts: 9588 Location: NOVA
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Posted: Tue May 14, 2024 5:26 pm Post subject: Re: metal buildings |
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For heating a workshop, I have been thinking of used oil fuel to fire up a homemade burner. Using used restaurant fryer oils and other used oils be cheap to heat a nice size workshop. Not sure if that be EPA regulated soon though. |
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Dusty1 Samba Member
Joined: April 16, 2004 Posts: 1692
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Posted: Wed May 15, 2024 8:58 am Post subject: Re: metal buildings |
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A local business has a fry fat distillery in their back room. Fry fat burns just like fuel oil after it's processed. A normal oil burner burns it without issues or complaints.
Snap- On used to make a waste oil heater for burning drain oil. The EPA frowned on that years ago when drain oil inevitably contained lead. The Mobil One we drain outta the Prius is a lot cleaner. A young motorhead I know uses our used Mobil One in his Suburban. We drive 5000 miles and dump it into a clean pan. He pours it into his Suburban and gets another 5k out of it.
Until recently American industry ran on coal. Near as I can tell various "offshore" entities aren't shy about shoveling really horrible grades of coal into their industries.
We had a Warm Morning coal heater in our old (20'x50') workshop. If the workshop was closer to the house we could have run an extra zone off the Keystoker.
Coal is still widely available for free. You would be surprised how many old houses have a few tons in an old coal bin in the basement. It's almost like the inevitable boxes of parts that come with old VWs.
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