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calvinater
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2024 4:49 am    Post subject: metal buildings Reply with quote

Looking to erect a 30x40 building for the boy to use as a shop.
Anyone have experience with erecting your own?
Were you happy with the end result?
Any reccomended manufacturers?

Thanks
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Bulli Klinik
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2024 8:03 am    Post subject: Re: metal buildings Reply with quote

I erected a quonset hut a couple of years ago. I farmed out the finish work on the foundation and friend and I did the rest of the work. I got a really good deal on a used shell and we built the rest.

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nsracing
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2024 4:02 am    Post subject: Re: metal buildings Reply with quote

Nice metal! Maybe double that size and triple will do me just fine in the middle of the desert.

But I am more traditional - i like old firestations and make them like workshop. Plenty properties like that.
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kingkarmann
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2024 10:03 am    Post subject: Re: metal buildings Reply with quote

calvinater wrote:
Looking to erect a 30x40 building for the boy to use as a shop.
Anyone have experience with erecting your own?
Were you happy with the end result?
Any reccomended manufacturers?

Thanks


Versitube

https://www.versatube.com/building-kits/garages-buildings/

I have been looking in an RV Port.
Not the cheapest but the ones I have looked at are well engineered.
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typ914
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2024 12:24 pm    Post subject: Re: metal buildings Reply with quote

Not me but a friend built a 60 x 100 metal building. He built his house in side the first quarter of it with the front looking like a normal house. The rest of the building was his workshop. A contractor working on a house next to his property saw the set up and loved it. The guy made an offer he couldn't refuse and he sold it to him before he moved in. Doing a building like that is part of my retirement plan!
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Dusty1
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2024 6:32 am    Post subject: Re: metal buildings Reply with quote

Bought a Morton building 30 years ago and would do it again.

New England Caveat:

20' x 50' is about all you want to heat in the winter. If you're using it as a workshop don't go big and don't go tall. You can work in a tin shed in Texas, Arizona or New Mexico. Working in a tin shed in Vermont in January is almost as miserable as wallowing in the snow outside tryin' to start a soggy and hard to light diesel.

My late brother's place sold literally last week with the last gentleman's workshop I built. That one was wood over a structural steel frame, heavily insulated.

You can generally buy a big industrial space cheaper than you can build one.

First thing every woodchuck up north builds is a workshop big enough to accommodate their log truck and their skidder. Economy takes its inevitable downturn and the bank gets it.

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calvinater
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2024 4:23 pm    Post subject: Re: metal buildings Reply with quote

Went with a Future Buildings 30x 48 fully insulated and delivered, 28k.

Next up site prep.

any tips on radiantt heat tubing?
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2024 4:40 pm    Post subject: Re: metal buildings Reply with quote

calvinater wrote:
any tips on radiantt heat tubing?

Map it out carefully and space it widely if possible, if holes in the floor for hoists and the like are required later it's good to know where you can drill safely.
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my59
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2024 8:56 pm    Post subject: Re: metal buildings Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
calvinater wrote:
any tips on radiantt heat tubing?

Map it out carefully and space it widely if possible, if holes in the floor for hoists and the like are required later it's good to know where you can drill safely.


Keep in mind radient floor heating takes time to warm up and cool down. EPS insulation under the slab works well, no need to heat the ground under, but you need to look at the PSI rating of the insulation so it doesn't crush under load of slab (dead load) and what you plan on putting on the slab (live load)
I'd be figuring out equipment being anchored to floor, and maybe thicken slab in the area and pattern the piping accordingly.
Pex tubing was used last time I did a place with radiant heating, and the Hvac engineer suggested a 6" slab to increase heated mass. There was a floor thermostat involved, and glycol? In the boiler water in case of power failure to make sure nothing froze.
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4Gears4Tires
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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2024 6:39 am    Post subject: Re: metal buildings Reply with quote

I had a post frame construction built by Fetterville Sales, an Amish outfit. I did the excavation myself with a rented bobcat and I made sure to excavate down for 11-12 inches of concrete where the lift is going in. It is easy to do this now and will cost you... $50 extra in concrete? Literally a no brainer. Make sure you route your radiant floor PEX around the area the lift will go in so you have no chance of puncturing it with floor bolts.

The building, they put it up in 1 day
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I insulated 18" down around the perimeter to insulate the soil underneath the garage.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Then I used insulated around the edges, 4 feet in. Note the notch in the insulation at the back because I wanted the extra dept for the lift. In the center, I used insulated vapor barrier. A big consideration with concrete in garages is rust. If you put a paint can on the concrete and leave it there, it will 100% rust over time. I wanted no moisture coming in from the ground so brake rotors or other exposed steel surface items would not rust. Having a dry not humid environment is amazing in the DC area.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

The concrete guys, while cheap, were exactly what I paid for. They jerked me around on the schedule, didn't do everything they said they were going to do, and left the surface unfinished. Because of their shitty scheduling, I wasn't able to spend the proper time routing the pex and I ended up with about 1/4 of my pex left over. I had used a pex calculator to properly size the loop. I am mad about this and I should have spent more money. Life lesson learned. Never pay your contractors until they do the job they say, because they will take your money and disappear. It does work, it uses quite a bit of power to heat the garage. However, if the garage is 70F, then the floor is 82-85F. Which makes my feet sweat. So I installed a minisplit system to heat/cool the garage and keep the floor around 50F. This is perfect imo. My feet don't get cold or sweat like crazy and the air temp is comfy. A really nice thing about the insulated slab and low temp radiant heat is I'm not on a cold concrete floor that saps the heat out of me anymore! BTDT too long, also why I got a lift.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I used an all in one radiant floor heater. It made plumbing it up easy.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

And of course, as soon as it was up and running (and even before the concrete went in) it was getting used thoroughly
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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calvinater
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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2024 11:47 am    Post subject: Re: metal buildings Reply with quote

4Gears4Tires wrote:
I had a post frame construction built by Fetterville Sales, an Amish outfit. I did the excavation myself with a rented bobcat and I made sure to excavate down for 11-12 inches of concrete where the lift is going in. It is easy to do this now and will cost you... $50 extra in concrete? Literally a no brainer. Make sure you route your radiant floor PEX around the area the lift will go in so you have no chance of puncturing it with floor bolts.

The building, they put it up in 1 day
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I insulated 18" down around the perimeter to insulate the soil underneath the garage.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Then I used insulated around the edges, 4 feet in. Note the notch in the insulation at the back because I wanted the extra dept for the lift. In the center, I used insulated vapor barrier. A big consideration with concrete in garages is rust. If you put a paint can on the concrete and leave it there, it will 100% rust over time. I wanted no moisture coming in from the ground so brake rotors or other exposed steel surface items would not rust. Having a dry not humid environment is amazing in the DC area.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

The concrete guys, while cheap, were exactly what I paid for. They jerked me around on the schedule, didn't do everything they said they were going to do, and left the surface unfinished. Because of their shitty scheduling, I wasn't able to spend the proper time routing the pex and I ended up with about 1/4 of my pex left over. I had used a pex calculator to properly size the loop. I am mad about this and I should have spent more money. Life lesson learned. Never pay your contractors until they do the job they say, because they will take your money and disappear. It does work, it uses quite a bit of power to heat the garage. However, if the garage is 70F, then the floor is 82-85F. Which makes my feet sweat. So I installed a minisplit system to heat/cool the garage and keep the floor around 50F. This is perfect imo. My feet don't get cold or sweat like crazy and the air temp is comfy. A really nice thing about the insulated slab and low temp radiant heat is I'm not on a cold concrete floor that saps the heat out of me anymore! BTDT too long, also why I got a lift.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I used an all in one radiant floor heater. It made plumbing it up easy.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

And of course, as soon as it was up and running (and even before the concrete went in) it was getting used thoroughly
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.





how big is that building, is that a gasfired heater?
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calvinater
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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2024 11:54 am    Post subject: Re: metal buildings Reply with quote

site work started today, should be ready to form up the slab by the weekend.

any tips on eps foam thatat is not cost prohibited.

shaving off the high spots and filling in the low spots.

nsr no abandoned firestations round here

this is gonna be fun!!!!
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calvinater
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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2024 11:55 am    Post subject: Re: metal buildings Reply with quote

remember this all for the Boy!
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4Gears4Tires
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PostPosted: Wed May 08, 2024 7:08 am    Post subject: Re: metal buildings Reply with quote

32x24, 768sqft. It is an electric heater. Gas would be a lot cheaper, but my house does not have gas. https://www.nextgenboiler.com/products/
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PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2024 5:26 pm    Post subject: Re: metal buildings Reply with quote

For heating a workshop, I have been thinking of used oil fuel to fire up a homemade burner. Using used restaurant fryer oils and other used oils be cheap to heat a nice size workshop. Not sure if that be EPA regulated soon though.
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Dusty1
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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2024 8:58 am    Post subject: Re: metal buildings Reply with quote

A local business has a fry fat distillery in their back room. Fry fat burns just like fuel oil after it's processed. A normal oil burner burns it without issues or complaints.

Snap- On used to make a waste oil heater for burning drain oil. The EPA frowned on that years ago when drain oil inevitably contained lead. The Mobil One we drain outta the Prius is a lot cleaner. A young motorhead I know uses our used Mobil One in his Suburban. We drive 5000 miles and dump it into a clean pan. He pours it into his Suburban and gets another 5k out of it. Very Happy


Until recently American industry ran on coal. Near as I can tell various "offshore" entities aren't shy about shoveling really horrible grades of coal into their industries.

We had a Warm Morning coal heater in our old (20'x50') workshop. If the workshop was closer to the house we could have run an extra zone off the Keystoker.

Coal is still widely available for free. You would be surprised how many old houses have a few tons in an old coal bin in the basement. It's almost like the inevitable boxes of parts that come with old VWs.

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