69 Bug Full Restoration

[69Mexbug]

Hey guys
I’ve owned this 69 beetle for maybe 10 years now. It has always been in “acceptable” shape but now i finally decided to give it the love it needs. I started a full restoration on it. As for now i have dismantled most of the car. I separated the body from the pan. Took the body to sandblast and body shop and i am going to start working on the pan myself. I find it a bit overwhelming at times for it being my first full volkswagen restoration and my second car restoration.

One of the things i have considered is to change all the guides inside the tunnel, brakes, fuel, heater. But i have seen this is quite a job to take the bottom of the tunnel apart.

Any suggestions, recommendations before i take any decisions? All comments positive and negative are gladly welcome.

[viiking]

IMO the ONLY correct way IS to remove the bottom. Whilst a big job it is not as much difficult as time consuming.

The benefit is that you can more correctly and with better strength repair any of the innards of the tunnel so it won't ever happen again. The other side benefit is that you can paint the insides of the tunnel so it also won't ever be a problem.

Now of course if you are doing a restoration and not a preservation or a resto mod, change the brakes, bigger engine, drop spindles, bigger tyres, narrow beam etc, then the cheap and nasty way is to hack the tunnel at the bracket location and repair without taking off the bottom.

Just my opinion.
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1968 1500 RHD Lotus White Beetle since birth. In the hospital for major surgery
1966 Lancia Flavia Pininfarina Coupe - in the waiting room
Discharged: 1983 Vanagon, 1974 1800 Microbus,1968 Low Light,1968 Type 3

[69Mexbug]

Hey Viiking thanks for the response!

I understand there is always an easy way to do stuff and the correct way to do it. I am all for taking off the bottom if its the correct way.

Question though. Are there any potential negative consequences of doing so, and maybe not worth messing around with that? Like some sort of dis alignment or anything you can think of in your experience?

[viiking]

The spine of the chassis is very thick steel (compared to other sheet metal) and won’t deflect. I’d leave the pans in place (if they need replacing)as extra support so it maintains its rectangularity, until you’ve completed the tunnel work. As I said the spine is strong so it probably doesn’t matter much if the pans are in place or not, but it can’t hurt.

You can tip your whole chassis onto its side on the wheels with a couple of guys if you don’t have a rotisserie (two engine stands work). That way you’ll have full access to the side and it’s much easier to drill and weld in that orientation.

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1968 1500 RHD Lotus White Beetle since birth. In the hospital for major surgery
1966 Lancia Flavia Pininfarina Coupe - in the waiting room
Discharged: 1983 Vanagon, 1974 1800 Microbus,1968 Low Light,1968 Type 3

[Rome]

[agramer1966]

Nice beggining. Good luck with your restoration. 👍
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1966 VW1300
1973 VW1302
1974 VW Trike
1984 924
Bunch of old Jap motorbikes
Instagram & YT: #agrameroldoctane

[69Mexbug]

[69Mexbug]

[69Mexbug]