new Kadrons sputtering on low RPM

[Holzy22]

I used to have it, but since the switch to the 40k Kadron kit, I have a much cleaner set up, but yes have to get those vent lines to the new air filters. But again, I don't think its affecting my issue not having it hooked up yet.

[Holzy22]

So..... after balancing the carbs a few times, tuning the idle mixture a few times, adding 1.5 turns to the pumps, the hesitation is almost all gone. Its ok to drive, just a few misses now and then. Will try the increased jetting next, but going to wait for warmer temps here in Alberta so I can get the motor broken in better before I keep fiddling with it.

[Rome]

How does your improved carb/engine behavior compare to this advice? http://www.geneberg.com/cat.php?name=Jetting%20Information%20-%20FYI&cPath=248

[mikedjames]

The only Kadrons I have seen over here in the UK were thrown onto the engine by a USA seller, who kept the duals that the bus was usually equipped with. They came with an 009 that had been tweaked to 26 degrees at idle timing advance and which somehow managed to retard slightly to 24 degrees at high RPM. It ran OK but was not great.
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1974 VW T2 : Devon Eurovette camper with 1641 DP T1 engine, Progressive carb, full flow oil cooler, EDIS crank timed ignition.
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1979 Westerly GK24 24 foot racer/cruiser yacht Forethought of Gosport.
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[Holzy22]

@Rome
That is a great link and describes exactly what Alstrup recommends. Going to put in a larger main jet once the warmer temps come in Alberta.

[Holzy22]

@mikedjames
26 degrees at idle seems like a whole bunch. I am running 12 ish at idle and 32 ish at full throttle (full advance). Might change this when I put a larger jet in.

[Mike-O-Rama]

I am part of the small population that has been able to make the EMPI 40k Kadrons work- but they were far from ready out of the box..

I purchased the jetting and venturi secret sauce separately from kaddieshack, but made my own air cleaner spacers to lift the air cleaner mounting bracket away from the carb throat

I have a CB magnaspark, I put both light springs in for the quickest advance with initial at 10 and total at 30

Electric fuel pump with regulator set at less than 2psi

Balanced carbs, adjusted linkage, and messed with the accelerator pumps for quite a long time

I have a 1835, engle 110 cam, 40x35.5 empi heads, 8 to 1 CR, 1-1/2 sidewinder header, sea level in CA,

[Holzy22]

Well Mike, I plan to be part of that population. Just went over all the videos on Kaddie's site.
Hopefully I can fix up the last little remaining dead spot with some new jetting. My thinking now is possibly it's the idle jet needs changing. I am getting that dead spot when the throttle blade is closed, so I thinking a larger idle jet might be better that a larger main jet as I have no issues when opening it up.
Going to call them after the holidays and see I can get that secret sauce for my 1914.

[Holzy22]

I see why you called it the "secret sauce" from Kaddie!

Ordered new idle and main jets ( they don't tell you what you are getting, you just give them some engine and driving specs and they send you what is needed) as well as 40/32 venturi's. Will get these parts on the carbs next week and see how it goes!!

[Alstrup]

This is one of the few things I do not like about Kaddie Shack. - Non ID jets and too large venturis and generally jetting on the riich side. But, rich usually runs fair.
32 venturis are way too large for a stock cammed 1914 even with a SVDA distributor. I´d say the stock 28 is fine. 30 mm at the most.
Buy jets from this guy: https://www.ebay.com/itm/291120648409?hash=item43c...BM5t7x05pj Then you know what you get.
How do you get 26 degreees @ idle ? Are you pulling manifold vacum?
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[Holzy22]

Thanks Alstrup, agree, not ideal not knowing, but going to give it a go.

26 degrees at idle was not me, think it was mike.

[APPLEGREENVW]

[filmfolks]

Hey , look at you pump travel and measure that, Kaddy shack has some videos. probably about 6 mm of travel. My set is actually a bit off on travel from each other when you just go a turn or two at time and do the initial static measurement set up Like KS suggest. I measured rather than turned 1/2 1/4s at each adjustment. Particularly good when you have plastic adjustment nuts.

[Holzy22]

Hey Filmfolks et all, very interesting, I just replaced all of my jets and venturi's from KS, then once done I looked at my pump travel and measured by ruler, I was amazed how different they were. When I got them, I installed them right out of the box and assumed the were the same, set the same from EMPI. They were vastly different, I would say by about 6 turns of the screw different. Not sure if this was a cause of my sputtering but now they are precisely set at 8mm travel (recommended for a 1914 from KS as a starting point). Once I rebalance, set the linkage, adjust the mixture ratio, I should have a good idea if my issue was solved.
Little too cold right now in beautiful Alberta to road test, so will just have to have it shop tested.

[oprn]

What??!! It's only -34*C with a -46*C wing chill here this morning... not sure which part of the province you live in. Positively balmy!

Ya, right! The wood stove will be going full tilt here today and as little outside time as possible.

After several summers of tinkering with my Kadrons with some improvements but never really running right (I came to the conclusion that they just were not made for our weather) I gave them away and went to Webers. Much better now!

Do you have a wide band? I might have had better luck if I had used one on the Kaddies. I would share mine with you if you are anywhere close.
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[Holzy22]

Just outside Edmonton in the country, yup -35c right now, awesome.

What is/do you mean by a wide band?

[oprn]

Ok, I am just north of Coronation so there's about 3 hours between us.

A wide band is a device hooked to an O2 sensor in your exhaust system that reads the air/fuel mixture. It does it static at an idle but more important it works throughout the driving range of the engine and helps diagnose and tune your carbs. In the old days it was done by reading the plugs after a run at different rpms and throttle settings. This way is 100 times faster! All you need is to weld an O2 bung in your exhaust system at a good spot, screw in the sensor, plug the unit into a cigarette lighter, grab a pen and paper and off you go.

If I would have spent the time on my Kadrons with a wide band that I did with the Webers I am pretty certain they would have worked much better... except that they still would have been a bear to start on cool mornings without chokes.
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We had the stone age, the bronze age, the industrial age and now we are in the age of mass deception and mind control for corporate profit. (The mass media age)

[W1K1]

I had a buddy that we threw the LM2 on his engine with the kads, and he thought it was "running good" , 10 AFR was the average, he was shocked.

He rejetted a couple times , we tested, he and spent a bunch of time to get it into the 13.5-12 range and it was a different beast after that. He sold it, but it's still running around town with the same setup.

Of course not in this weather -34 and -44 with the windchill in southern alberta this morning
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[mikedjames]

[Alstrup]

OK. The tweaked idle advance is the redneck way of getting a cammed low compression Kadron engine to idle- and pick up well. I basicly do the same, only I use a programmable ignition or even an svda distributor using manifold vacum.
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