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kpf
Samba Member
Joined: March 01, 2017
Posts: 864
Location: California, US
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 Posted: Thu Apr 18, 2024 9:20 am Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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| DUNGBTL wrote: |
HATE THE DREADED BONNET SCREECH!  |
I applied a little wheel bearing grease to the springs where they rub the straight pieces inside them. The hood has been quiet ever since.
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1971 Super Beetle |
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bruceo98
Samba Member
Joined: February 23, 2021
Posts: 297
Location: LA
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| Posted: Tue Apr 23, 2024 2:36 pm Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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Do you have a part number on the roll bar? I'm thinking I might need one and yours seems to fit nice and tight. I only want a 4 point. no door bars.
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H2OSB
Samba Member
Joined: April 14, 2013
Posts: 1315
Location: Modesto, CA
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| Posted: Tue Apr 23, 2024 3:24 pm Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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I believe he bent it up himself.
H2OSB
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bruceo98
Samba Member
Joined: February 23, 2021
Posts: 297
Location: LA
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| Posted: Tue Apr 23, 2024 7:33 pm Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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He said a few post back that Rhodes Race Cars made the main hoop. I’d like to order the same one . Fits close and out the way from his pictures .
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H2OSB
Samba Member
Joined: April 14, 2013
Posts: 1315
Location: Modesto, CA
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| Posted: Wed Apr 24, 2024 4:36 am Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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| bruceo98 wrote: |
| He said a few post back that Rhodes Race Cars made the main hoop. I’d like to order the same one . Fits close and out the way from his pictures . |
Ah, ok. Missed that. I just recall him talking about the door bars.
H2OSB
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DUNGBTL 
Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2022
Posts: 137
Location: Ashland, OR
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| Posted: Wed Apr 24, 2024 7:43 am Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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Bruce…
I don’t have a tubing bender so I outsourced the main hoop to Rhodes Race Cars. It fits nice and tight. Used ratchet straps to pull the feet in a tad and planished the upper window sill (see my pics above) to clear, but you want the hoop to fit tight to the roof w/o touching. $150 for a DOM nice fitting hoop, seemed like a bargain to me!
With your HP goal (500?) you may need more than a main hoop! 
You may want to check out John Reynolds build…he’s at 517 HP:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8vvjddx0Fac&list=PLSSKi7cJMKuBfcZ16FrmDYlUSBCx47Xfk&index=1
J. |
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bruceo98
Samba Member
Joined: February 23, 2021
Posts: 297
Location: LA
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| Posted: Wed Apr 24, 2024 8:04 am Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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I agree.
I didn't see the x brace in your pictures, did you just use those bars for the door bars? or for the bars going to the rear? The quick removal flanges are for your door bars?
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DUNGBTL
Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2022
Posts: 137
Location: Ashland, OR
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| Posted: Wed Apr 24, 2024 10:54 am Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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| bruceo98 wrote: |
I agree.
I didn't see the x brace in your pictures, did you just use those bars for the door bars? or for the bars going to the rear? The quick removal flanges are for your door bars? |
I originally was going to use the X-brace for a diagonal off the main hoop and a harness bar. I welded the diagonal in, however I found it interfered with the driver’s seat position.
So I cut it out…
SCCA specs (I downloaded the online rule book…good source for safe, time tested roll cage construction guildlines) allow for the main hoop diagonal to run from the top of the hoop to the one of the feet of the rear diagonals…so I may put it there (wouldn’t interfere w/the seat position). But probably not as I’m not planning on racing any SCCA events…but, I have it and can add it if needed. I’m running DOT 3-pt belts, so no harness bar.
All other bars are 1 1/2”, 0.095 wall DOM which SCCA allows for vehicle weights 1701-2699 lbs. I used that for weight savings…the main hoop is 1 5/8, 0.120” wall DOM which is overkill for the weight of the car. However, it’s what Rhodes offered on their website. I didn’t inquire if they would bend up a 1 1/2, .095 wall hoop…they probably would. That’d save ~5-10 lbs.
I didn’t use the “quick-disconnect” flanges for the diagonals or doorbars. I like the locking step connects better, they’re cleaner looking. No idea if they would pass tech for any sanctioning body, however I’m good with them. Got them off of Amazon.
I cut up the Rhodes disconnect flanges and used them to clip the main hoop to the B-pillar……the ID matched the hoop, had holes already drilled, and at 25” thick they worked a treat!
In the end, my 6-pt ‘cage’ is a compromise for ingress/egress and weight. It’s essentially a bolt in and can be completely removed without cutting any tubes. I designed it mainly for increasing chassis stiffness rather than passing any sanctioning body tech, although all the bar diameters, wall thickness, materials, angles and chassis mounts meet all SCCA specs (except the missing main hoop diagonal).
J. |
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bruceo98
Samba Member
Joined: February 23, 2021
Posts: 297
Location: LA
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| Posted: Wed Apr 24, 2024 3:03 pm Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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You could still have your diagonal bar. do like they do in racing with a BIG driver,they just bend it back. I'm sure its not as strong but better than nothing i guess,
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DUNGBTL
Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2022
Posts: 137
Location: Ashland, OR
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| Posted: Wed Apr 24, 2024 5:16 pm Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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| bruceo98 wrote: |
| You could still have your diagonal bar. do like they do in racing with a BIG driver,they just bend it back. I'm sure its not as strong but better than nothing i guess, |
Yes…or like I mentioned above going from the top of the hoop back to the opposite side rear diagonal foot. Still could do that.
J. |
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bruceo98
Samba Member
Joined: February 23, 2021
Posts: 297
Location: LA
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| Posted: Wed Apr 24, 2024 6:14 pm Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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I looked on Amazon and typed in those flanges and got everything but what you have there . Got a link to them? Wondering also if it’s going to be hard to slide the ragtop with the main hoop right there .
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DUNGBTL
Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2022
Posts: 137
Location: Ashland, OR
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| Posted: Thu Apr 25, 2024 6:50 am Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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| bruceo98 wrote: |
| I looked on Amazon and typed in those flanges and got everything but what you have there . Got a link to them? Wondering also if it’s going to be hard to slide the ragtop with the main hoop right there . |
I did have to trim the hoop’s legs to give more clearance. I think I cut ~3/8” off each leg.
Hoop top is ~.25-.50” from the roof. I definitely can’t put a stock headliner in (wasn’t going to anyway). It’s tightest at the sides, more clearance towards the roof middle.
I imagine you’ll have to shorten the legs even more w/the ragtop.
Here’s the stepped tube connects I used…
J. |
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agramer1966
Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2010
Posts: 152
Location: Northern Poland
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| Posted: Fri Apr 26, 2024 12:56 pm Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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| bruceo98 wrote: |
| Man you are rolling . Everything looks great and to perfection. Great work . I had to take a break from mine cause of work . Got too busy, but that’s a good thing . |
Same, same 😭
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1966 VW1300
1973 VW1302
1974 VW Trike
1984 924
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DUNGBTL
Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2022
Posts: 137
Location: Ashland, OR
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| Posted: Fri Apr 26, 2024 2:47 pm Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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Bonnet Mods, Part 1…remove the rain collector.
Got the bonnet out of storage…
…time to remove and fill the rain collector.
I used metal from the spare tire well which was cutout for the radiator install. The car remains a ‘metal matching’ car!
Typical butt weld of 18g…lots of tacky tack tacks, keeping the metal cool w/compressed air, then carefully grinding back the welds flush…
Rain collector filled…passed it on to the ‘body shop’ where things always look uglier before they’re done.
Fitted bonnet up to the drillium hinges. Not sure what happened here…suddenly I felt like I was in a bad Steven King movie…  “BUG EATS MAN!”
The drillium hinge and struts work awesome! So smooth and silent…and check out the shadow casting of the drillium latch handle!
Next up…911 RSR inspired hood tie downs (aka, “Jeep hood tie-downs”…but pricier  )
Cheers,
J. |
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bruceo98
Samba Member
Joined: February 23, 2021
Posts: 297
Location: LA
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| Posted: Mon Apr 29, 2024 6:35 pm Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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That turned out nice . I need you to come work for me . I can use a good bodyman . Did you ever find a way to re route your coolant lines under the car? I know what you had was hanging low . Are you planning on lowering the car any? I see your car even has a cup dispenser. Lol
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DUNGBTL
Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2022
Posts: 137
Location: Ashland, OR
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| Posted: Mon Apr 29, 2024 7:40 pm Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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| bruceo98 wrote: |
| That turned out nice . I need you to come work for me . I can use a good bodyman . Did you ever find a way to re route your coolant lines under the car? I know what you had was hanging low . Are you planning on lowering the car any? I see your car even has a cup dispenser. Lol |
Thanks! That’s quite a compliment coming from a pro!  It wasn’t a ‘file-finish’ and required a little filler, but I’m happy with it. I actually think the vent area is a low spot in the bonnet right from the factory.
I sorted the ‘low hanging’ hoses by routing them partially through the front frame head instead of under the head. I posted the re-do on page 3. Here’s the result…
View level with bottom of frame head…
Cup dispenser and triple AC outlet were special order options offered back in the day…
J. |
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bruceo98
Samba Member
Joined: February 23, 2021
Posts: 297
Location: LA
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| Posted: Mon Apr 29, 2024 8:05 pm Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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I knew you would come up with a fix for that. Looks much better and tight
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bruceo98
Samba Member
Joined: February 23, 2021
Posts: 297
Location: LA
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| Posted: Wed May 01, 2024 6:20 pm Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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And as for as file finish. That filler when applied right will be there when you’re dead and gone or when the car is in the wrecking yard. This isn’t like old bondo these days . .
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DUNGBTL
Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2022
Posts: 137
Location: Ashland, OR
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| Posted: Wed May 01, 2024 7:07 pm Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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| bruceo98 wrote: |
| And as for as file finish. That filler when applied right will be there when you’re dead and gone or when the car is in the wrecking yard. This isn’t like old bondo these days . . |
I agree. Even so-called ‘file-finished’ show cars have filler. I used 3M Platinum Plus Finishing Glaze applied to 36g sanded bare metal. I’m in the bare metal bondo camp. Works for me.
J. |
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DUNGBTL
Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2022
Posts: 137
Location: Ashland, OR
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| Posted: Wed May 01, 2024 7:12 pm Post subject: Re: The DUNGBTL Build |
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1302R Bonnet Part 2: 911 RSR Hood Tie Downs
In keeping with the Porsche 911R/RS, 356 Outlaw vibe, I installed RS/RSR (inspired) tie downs.
Real ones…
The DUNGBTL interpretation (not a great pic…I couldn’t back up…small shop)…
Before the tie down install, I installed a new bonnet seal (WW version) so that I would position the tie-downs such that they would cause the bonnet to compress the seal when attached. I used a delrin wedgie thingy I had to pry up any crimped sections of the seal channel. Cleaned out the channel using WD40 and old toothbrush. Then smeared a bit of dielectric grease (silicone) in the channel w/the toothbrush to help install the seal (dielectric grease will not deteriorate rubber like petro-based grease will). Installed the upper rear corners first, across the cowl, then down each side to the front. Easier with the hood off.
Marked the bonnet centerline, then measured 10,000x from common datum’s before drilling holes in apron and bonnet. Fabricated back-up doublers, installed tie-downs with period correct pan-head Phillips screws.
P.S. I’m not happy w/the looks of the repo tie downs and sourced some OEM ones (they’re still made exactly the same as back in the day) which match the 911RSR ones as seen above. Will R&R the straps when they come in. Much sexier…
Cheers,
J. |
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