090 Automatic Rebuild

[djkeev]

Here is the 1st/Reverse drum and clutch back in with the 2nd Gear Band wrapped around it.

Now it is time to move on to the FORWARD CLUCH ASSEMBLY.

First I put another of Alika's blue plastic spacers around the oil pump shaft on top of the 1st/Reverse clutch cover snap ring area.

Next will go the lower bearing plate on top of the pump (tabs up into the center of the Roller Bearing)
Then the Roller Bearing goes on
And then the upper roller bearing plate (Tabs down over the outside of the roller bearing)

I had already removed the snap ring and the clutches and steels from the Forward Clutch during disassembly.
There is a bearing on top of the shaft however and it is direction specific.
The "hollow" side of the bearing goes down on to the shaft

I set aside the bearing for now because I need to remove the BELLVILLE SPRING so that I can access and renew the PISTON below it.

The Bellville Spring has fingers on a steel plate and these fingers have a curve to them. The curve points down towards the piston.

Now, I won't lie......this snap ring on top of the Bellville Spring was a bear to remove!
It is deeply seated into the housing and the snap ring ends only have one end with the little tab to grab.
I had to use my 90° pick and even with a fine point I was just able to grab the tab. (I tried the other end of the snap ring first and only dug out dirt.... no tab)

Once I grabbed the tab the snap ring was reluctant to come. The tab kept sliding off of the round pick and I had to pry it out quite a ways in order to slip a screw driver behind the ring.

I ending up using the 90° pick and two screw drivers to get this snap ring out.

Sadly, all was about to go sideways on me.

If you look at the photo below you will notice an odd line on the edge of the Bellville Spring, look at the upper tight of the photo.
Then again just below my screw driver you can see a similar odd line on the Spring.

Once the snap ring was off, this is what greeted me ........

This is a proverbial wrench in the gears of progress!
VW Part # 010 323 229D ....... NLA, last manufactured in 2009. Used in multitudes of VW's, Audi's and Porsche from the 1970's into the 1990's.
I found one in Berlin but delivery is weeks away.........
Heavy Sigh.

I've started a thread on trying to find where I can buy one .......

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=789526

Anyway...... life goes on!

I easily pulled out the old Piston and compared it with the new one, again it looks identical..... hurrah!

Where the snap ring and spring sat was awash in dirt and debris.
I ended up shooting in carb cleaner and using a pick and a brush to clean it out, the amount of debris was quite astonishing!
I wonder if the debris build up locked in the Bellville Spring preventing it from moving as it flexed. Not being able to move it was stressed and thus fractured in multiple locations?

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[inkycat]

Please contact me so I can send you this.

Gordon Bruce
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[djkeev]

That's amazing! Thank You!

I'm going to continue on checking and renewing as I can, I just won't be able to install any more bits until I have a Bellville Spring.......

I pulled out the forward clutch and the Forward Planetary Gear Set.

Inside the Double Sun Gear are two bushings. I measured them and thought it might be good to replace them, they weren't all that bad but I have them..... why not?
I went ahead and pressed out both bushing and installed the new ones.
No joy...... you remember my earlier theory that the bushings crush upon installation?
Well it is absolutely true!
After installing the new bushing the interior diameter was way below the shaft and I would need an adjustable reamer to make it fit.
So...... I pressed out the new bushing and reinstalled the old ones.

Just a note, the Sun Gear has the short side installed int the planetary gears.

Below the Sun Gear is a bearing but Imwould need to disassemble the planetary gears to remove it.
Nothing in this transmission has been badly worn so I'm running with that and will leave that bearing well enough alone.

The bottom of the forward clutch housing has a raised boss.

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[djkeev]

Tomorrow I'm going to set aside the transmission and begin on the differential part, renewing seals and such.
I looked inside a year or two ago and the gears looked great with no bad wear patterns.
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[djkeev]

What a difference a day makes!
Yesterday was wet and rainy but in the mid 60’s.
Today is Sunny with bright blue skies but mid 20’s and windy!
I had turned
Off
The Pellet stove a few days ago but this morning I lit the stove and set it to
High. It is only now just sweat shirt comfy in my work shop.

I’ve taken this forced delay of waiting for parts to reconsider my bushings I need to ream.
I ordered an adjustable reamer that will let me ream out for my 28 mm shaft. It should arrive Saturday…… it is the right thing to do…….

Now I need to shift gears and get into that differential unit.
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[djkeev]

My Pellet stove is cranking away..... too good I think...... it is currently 84° in the shop! 🔥

Anyway .... I called inkycat this morning and had a great chat..... awfully nice guy.
If I'm ever in Texas I'll be swinging by to say hello!
On the other side of the coin...... he's welcome in Reading too! Yeah..... that "Take a Ride on the Reading..... if unowned you may buy it from the bank" Reading.

I was greeted by this and quickly rearranged and organized to move on to the differential unit reseal part of the project.

Job #1 was to clean up the mating surface to the transmission. It was a sealant, oily, rusty mess!
A piece of sandpaper, carb cleaner, lacquer thinner and a wire brush made it much better!
When I reassemble the unit this Oring will have a coating of Hylomar Blue.
This seal seems to be the #1 leak on Automatic transmissions...... for me at least. And there is absolutely no easy way to seal it once it begins to leak.

Clean and shiny, I've not yet removed the large Oring.

I hooked my Chain Hoist hook into the web of the bell housing and lifted it up and into a drain pan so I can pull the fill plug and the oil pan.
I LOVE having this chain hoist! Best $70 I've spent in a long while!

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[djkeev]

Once tilted up and hoisted the Turbine Shaft slid down to the bench.
This is something that one doesn't want to bend so I reached under and pushed it back up, once it protruded from the Pinion Shaft I grabbed it and pulled it out.

This shaft has two split rings on it similar to the four on the Oil Pump.
On mine (1990) there is also a wire snap ring in a groove near the end that enters into the oil pump. The manual states (and I'm not sure why) DO NOT RUN THIS SHAFT WITHOUT THE SNAP RING IN PLACE.
I initially just saw the groove and no snap ring. All sorts of thoughts went through my head..... who's been in here before, what happens if it ran (like it obviously did) without the snap ring and more fearfully, where do I get a snap ring.
I dug through my boxes of stuff and found Eclips that will fit as well as an external snap ring that will fit.
It just didn't sit right that I use either of these. I looked at my internal snap rings and Jesus clips thinking that I could maybe modify one to make a snap ring for the shaft.
I started guessing and decided that this is an old school wire snap ring on there.
I went on Amazon and they have a wire snap ring kit that can be here tomorrow...... SOLD!
I ordered the kit!
Then A bit later I happened to examine the shaft more closely and I saw inside the groove where the snap ring goes....... a thin wire snap ring!
Whew!
At least now I'll have a wire snap ring assortment on the shelf should the need ever arise! $$$ KaChing!

On with the program........ I pulled the fill plug and due to the angle gear oil came pouring out.
Meanwhile I loosened all of the pan bolts.
I removed them all except for two on the top and one near the top on each side.
These four I just loosened.
I top a small putty knife and worked it into the gasket seam until the pan let go from the case.
I had used Hylomar Blue a few years ago on this gasket, it never leaked and when encouraged the pan just popped off and the gasket is whole, I could probably reuse the gasket if I wanted to...... but I generally don't roll that way.

Once the oil had drained well, I pulled the other two bolts.
This exposed the ring and pinion.

Differentials seem to have a mystique about them much like the auto trans does and people are afraid of them.
It is actually a simple design and the only caveat to working on them is you need to carefully measure various clearances and rotation resistance.

I've no desire to dig into the unit, I'm only here to replace seals. The unit is quiet and as you can see from the photos shows no excessive wear or problems.
There aren't any chunks of steel or piles of ground up dust.
Yes, there is a fine film of steel dust on the magnet on the oil pan...... but that is normal, no shards of whiskers only anything excessive.

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[djkeev]

I found around the pinion shaft two shims.
Odd, they aren't the same diameter and I don's see them on the exploded parts picture in the Bentley.
I'll need to pull up the spare parts drawing and see if they are shown on that.
Never-the-less...... I'll reinstall them. The unit had no working issues and I'm not going to go fixing something that isn't broken.

There are five 13mm head bolts holding the Cover Plate on.
This Cover Plate contains the fabled back to back oil seals that when they fail allow gear oil to mix with ATF.

I pulled out all five bolts and it just sat there refusing to move.
I carefully hit it with a rubber mallet while prying up on the edge and it moved ever so slightly.
I got a bit more aggressive with the mallet and it gave way.
I,m guessing that the two Oil rings had fused themselves to the cover plate plus the oil seals were gripping the Pinion Shaft.

For now, I just bagged this cover and the screws.

My next focus is the Governor. This is located under the round metal cover with the bale wire over the top of it.

The bale wire can be a bugger to get off. The center snap point is deep so it really won't slide to the side like a valve cover bale wire will.
I simply used a pair of pliers and gripped on end and lifted it out of the mounting slot. It comes fairly easy, just don't go bending it too much.

Once removed you can see the governor assembly

Nothing holds the governor in. The end has a flat spot which probably runs on the dent in the cover if it ever wanted to walk out.

Just grab the assembly and pull it out ......

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[djkeev]

Once the Cover Plate is removed you can see the Pinion Bearing. Unless you are going to go deeper and renew bearings, be nice this this.
Mine shows no unusual wear and I'm leaving it in.
In this photo below you can also see the gear that drives the Governor (Gold Colored) and opposite the gear you can see the seal where the Governor enters the differential.

Here is a photo with a flash light (torch for you out of towners) shining in the governor shaft hole.

To me it is important to replace this Governor shaft seal. I've seen that most of the rubber products in this transaxle are dried and hard. I doubt this one is an exception. It also keeps ATF from mixing with the Gear Oil.

VW says to remove this seal with tool #248/1 ...... yeah...... I don't have one of them.......

I do have a seal puller kit! I dug it out and quickly found out that this puller kit won't be pulling this seal out, all I managed to do was tear the seal and pull out rubber bits.
This indicated that there is no going back and the old seal MUST come out!

But how? ........ I've used bolts with washers, bolt heads, screw with wide heads, carriage bolts, etc over the years.
Not one of these worked!
And where the seal is located you can't assemble something on the inside to push it out.
There is a lip molded onto the case for the seal on the inside, this is a stop when installing the seal from the Governor side.

OK..... break time...... got a cup of coffee, stoked the fire in the house, etc.

I came back out and just stared at it. Using my flashlight I saw that if I could snake a long drift into the opening by the pinion bearing, I bet I can just catch the edge of the seal and drive it out.

But, I don't have a long thin drift!
Ah.......... I do have a 5/32 chainsaw file!
But it is a file, you can't damage that bearing at all!
A file is designed to damage steel.

On my window ledge I keep a roll of electrical tape.........
yep, I wrapped that long sucker in tape!

Then I ever so carefully used my new long thin drift and tapped that seal in a couple of places that I could get to and POP! It fell right out!

Oh happy day! The seal is out and there isn't any damage to the bearing.

Now to put the new seal in..... VW calls for tool #248/2 ...... nope..... I don't have one of those.

I do have a 3/8" 6" socket extension and a 3/8" to 1/4" adapter.

The open center of the seal fit perfect over the 1/4" square. I had oiled the seal well with ATF so it stuck on to the adapter.
NOTE: the "open" side of the seal faces the Governor. The solid side goes in first and sets against the lip at the end of the bore.

I used this this to slip the seal into its recess in the bore.

I then flipped over the extension for the female end was almost the perfect diameter needed to drive the seal home.
I few light taps and it was home......

I slipped in the well oiled Governor until it came near the gear it must mate with.
The governor has a square shaft that fully inserts into the gear.....

I should have done it earlier but I needed to remove the old Oring for the cover and clean the area well.

Using my dental pick I grabbed the old Oring, it was so brittle that it cracked where I grabbed it. I'm amazed that it wasn't leaking.

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[djkeev]

I found the new Oring for the Governor cover ......

Sadly the governor cover has some serious rusty spots. I've seen people post about these rusting through and leaking.
I sanded it, wire brushed it and sanded again.
I cleaned up the rust until it glistened in the sun.

I then painted it with Rustoleum Black High Performance Enamel.
This is one of my new favorite spray paints, it seems to hold up really well in the rusty North.
(Not a bad view out of my shop window...... )

I'm going to keep the Pellet stove burning all night and I'll set this cover on top of it to get it really dry before I install it.
I also painted the Bale Wire for it.
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[1988M5]

[djkeev]

[djkeev]

My Governor cover and bale wire absolutely dried overnight sitting on the pellet stove.

I took this photo, it is the inside of the governor cover. You can see the smallest spot of bare metal in the center. This is where the Governor will rub if need be. There is not any physical retainer for the governor, it just sits there and spins.

I cleaned the sealing area well with carb cleaner and blew out any debris.
I found the Oring for the cover and got my tube of Hylomar Blue.....

I put a dab of Hylomar on my fingers and ran the Oring through completely covering the Oring, I then installed it in the groove.
I then speared a bit on the sealing edge of the cover...

I placed the cover on and pushed it into place.....
I then carefully put the bale wire on, once again using pliers to snap it on.

If you look at the previous photo you will notice the cover is setting a tad cocked.
A light tap with the rubber mallet set it in tight......

I next removed the small Oring for the cover plate.
It easily comes out with a dental pick.
This Oring seal a path to an external hole. This provides a path for either ATF or Gear Oil to exit..... if and only if one of the back to back seals fails. This drains the dry void between the two seals. Any leakage from this hole will tell you that repairs are needed soon.

Here is the hole..... just to the rear of the oil pan .....

Be careful selecting the proper Oring, there are multiple small Orings in the kit but only one fits the recess in the case.

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[djkeev]

The seals in the cover plate that prevent ATF from mixing with Gear Oil are pressed in back to back. That is the open lip faces into the differential or the transmission.

Transmission side

Differential side

On the differential side is the cup for the tapered roller bearing, do not mar or damage this cup.
To remove the seals I first tried prying on out..... that was a complete failure!

It became obvious that my hydraulic press was going to be an asset once again.
To get the seals out without damaging the bearing

VW says the Tools needed are
VW 401
VW 402
VW 407
VW 416b
US 1037

I've got the equivalents to VW 401 & 402 but the others?
VW 407 I used a socket adapter
VW 416b I used a 1 7/16" socket
US 1037 I used my hand to catch the crap that fell through once the seals came out.

Once the seals were out I dug out the replacements in the kit.

Here is a closeup showing the back to back seal size.....

Now clean up the cover plate and gather the tools to install the seals.

VW says use
VW 295
VW 511

Yeah....... nope.
VW 511 is a universal seal installer I've had for more years than I care to remember.
I also used a 1 1/2' socket.
VW 295 again an socket adapter.....

Remember the open lip of the seals both face out. The firstvseal in goes lip down and the solid back is up.

I used the seal setter to set the seal flush and then I used the 1 1/2" socket, the adapter and the press to set it home down in the housing.

The next seal goes in facing up.

I used the seal installer to set it flush with casting.

I then found the Oring for the Cover Plate and cleaned the mating surfaces up.
I lubed the bearing cup with some differential gear oil.
I put a smear of Hylomar around the entire edge where the Oring sets, slipped on the Oring and then smeared the Hylomar over the Oring.

I put a little bit of Hylomar on the small Oring and put it in its recess.
I slipped on the cover plate and pushed it down as far is it would go, bevsure to wiggle the pinion shaft so the bearing mates.
Put in the five bolts and torque them down in a random pattern working them all in evenly to 18 FOOT POUNDS. You don't want to run just one in fully for if the cover cocks in the opening you could easily snap the cover.

I didn't take any photos, I was a gooey Hyloar mess.

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[djkeev]

Next up....... axle output flange seals, both left and right.
They are the exact same procedure.
Just do one at a time for the flanges and the bolts are entirely different left and right.

The bolt takes an H6 Allen wrench.
These are only tightened to 18 Foot Pounds but let me tell you, they were scary tight!

The flange will rotate freely. You need to hold it still while you break the bolt loose.
I happen to have a chain vice grip but a big pair of pliers, some bolts screwed into the flange, a Cclamp or whatever you have to stop the rotation .... a really strong handed helper?

I used a breaker bar to crack it loose and then it spins out easily....

Here one is removed ....... that funny headed bolt? Do not lose it! They are almost unobtainable at any price! Like I mentioned also different left to right.

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[djkeev]

Here is the output seal that need to be replaced.
Yes this area is dirty but overall I'm leaving it alone.
I don't want to risk getting debris into the transaxle and creating problems. I'll take dirt and grease over problems anymday.

I did use a paper towel soaked with lacquer thinner to wipe away the worst of the mess at the seal surface itself. I replaced the towel frequently so as not to drop any debris inside.

Now, how to remove this seal?
There are many ways to remove a seal.
From as simple as a screw driver under the lip to specialized puller hand tools, to running a screw in the metal edge and using a slide hammer (similar to auto body dent pilling) to specialized slide hammers designed to remove seals and bearing.

Lets start easy...... pulling tools. A specialized lever to hook under the lip and rock out the seal, a cotter pin removing tool and a coolant hose remover tool.
The seal is set in too deeply to even try a simple screw driver pry......

Well...... no joy in Mudville here! Nothing worked and I even broke my special seal remover tool! Bend it all to heck.......

NEXT!
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[djkeev]

Failed removal tools including broken seal remover.
That seal is S T U C K stuck!!
In the background is a small seal/bearing remover slide hammer kit.

This kit is my next hope.

I assembled the puller jaws.... no good, they kept slipping.
I tried the puller tooth..... that only tore out a chunk of rubber and the seal lip spring.

Well crap..........

OK ..... THE BIG GUNS.

I have a slide hammer designed to remove axles and brake drums. It can also puller larger bearings, flanges and seals.
It isn't small and it isn't light. Maybe a five pound weight? The small one is only two pounds.
This tool has the ability to tighten the puller jaws in or around an object.
I assembled the three jaw puller and it just barely fit into the seal opening.
I then adjusted the jaw teeth until they were tight in the seal.
I slid back the weight...... the seal laughed at me!
I slid it back with more force...... no change.
I finally pulled on the T handle at the end and slammed the weight back with all the force I could muster considering I was doing a three hand job with only two hands.
After several hard hits the seal moved!
A few more slides and it was out!

I should note that tbe other side was even harder. The tool tore the metal flange of the seal and I had to regrip in a different spot on the seal. It too finally came after an amazing fight!

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[djkeev]

I've had things that were harder to get off, A rear brake drum on a 1955 Beetle, an axle shaft in an old Chevy........ but never have I had a seal fight me like this.

The reason is of course 34 years of rust built up on cast iron seal lip.

I wiped the area well with paper towels soaked in lacquer thinner.
I then used 320 grit sand paper and carefully sanded the rust off of the seal mount area being extremely careful not to get any grit inside.

I again cleaned the area with lacquer thinner. (I like lacquer thinner almost as much as I like Hylomar Blue........)

Here is the seal area after the seal finally came out, the spring is part of the old seal and was removed.
You can see the rust that was holding the seal in so tightly.

I dug the two new axle seals out of the kit .......
here is one next to the old torn seal....

Close up showing the size

What to use to install this seal?
Well my handy antique seal installer tool!

This tool got the seal started in but I needed something a bit more beefy to set it home.
A 1 11/16 socket was the perfect size to drive that seal home. I also used a drift and walked around the circumference of the seal to verify it was set completely in place.

Now, look at this output shaft!
There is so much rust and corrosion

Off to the sandpaper box!
A sheet of 320, 400, 600, 1200 and crocus cloth.

Ideally I'd chuck this flange in a lathe and polish it up, but alas, no lathe.
I just did it by hand.
I fist used a small wire brush to get off the rust scale and followed that with gentle use of 320.
I used lacquer thinner soaked paper towels between each step to clean the shaft.
I progressed with an ever finer grit finally polishing it with the crocus cloth.

This is how it ended up.......

I lubed the shaft and the lips of the new seals with gear oil before installing.
NEVER INSTALL SEALS DRY ON THE SHAFT ON WHICH THEY WILL RIDE.
Oil seals put on dry will be burned from the friction of the rotating shaft and may never seal properly.
Always lube the shaft and the seal.

Put the output flange bolt back in and torqued the bolt to 18 FOOT POUNDS.

Here is the other flange, notice how much longer it is and also the longer bolt.

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[djkeev]

Exciting day filled with anticipation!
If all goes well USPS will hand me a Bellvelle Spring!

Rainy, wet, cold. A Mug of Hot Coffee with a cozy fire in the wood stove for now.

I just completed a Duck Donut Store here in Reading, they have their grand opening today...... In the rain....... I may swing by....... I hope nothing breaks, I really don't want a phone call ...... I've never had a Duck Donut.........but I am told they are wonderful ........ and that I have a free lifetime supply of them! ..... Well, at least from the Wyomissing location........

https://www.duckdonuts.com/
_________________
Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos

Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473

Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537

Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert

[djkeev]

Oh shame on you who mock the US Postal Service!
On time delivery!

Plus it was a great day here...... the Bellvelle Spring, the adjustable reamer and the wire snap ring assortment.

_________________
Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos

Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473

Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537

Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert