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Switched Fuses
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shakers73
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2020 6:10 am    Post subject: Switched Fuses Reply with quote

I have an empty slot in my fuse box. #7 is for accessories and has no wires connected at either side. I want to add a stereo and and an electric windshield washer pump to it. My question is Which side is made hot by the fuse? Upper or lower? And which fuse can I piggy back that is made hot by the ignition switch?
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2020 6:18 am    Post subject: Re: Switched Fuses Reply with quote

'Usually' power is applied to the top terminals. Top as in your photo. The black wire all the way to the left is probably wire #15 (key switch on hot) Check with a VOM to be sure
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2020 11:12 am    Post subject: Re: Switched Fuses Reply with quote

shakers73 wrote:
I have an empty slot in my fuse box. #7 is for accessories and has no wires connected at either side. I want to add a stereo and and an electric windshield washer pump to it. My question is Which side is made hot by the fuse? Upper or lower? And which fuse can I piggy back that is made hot by the ignition switch?


You can not just piggy back the supply for the new fuse from a "switched hot" fuse. All of the additional current load will still be drawn through the (#15 circuit) contacts of the ignition switch, causing it to fry.

The correct way to do it would be to get an inexpensive generic 30A relay at the auto parts store, and tap the #15 circuit to energize the relay.

What size fuse are you going to need for fuse #7 ? This will determine where the relay needs to be powered from.
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shakers73
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2020 5:54 pm    Post subject: Re: Switched Fuses Reply with quote

Luft kühl wrote:
shakers73 wrote:
I have an empty slot in my fuse box. #7 is for accessories and has no wires connected at either side. I want to add a stereo and and an electric windshield washer pump to it. My question is Which side is made hot by the fuse? Upper or lower? And which fuse can I piggy back that is made hot by the ignition switch?


You can not just piggy back the supply for the new fuse from a "switched hot" fuse. All of the additional current load will still be drawn through the (#15 circuit) contacts of the ignition switch, causing it to fry.

The correct way to do it would be to get an inexpensive generic 30A relay at the auto parts store, and tap the #15 circuit to energize the relay.

What size fuse are you going to need for fuse #7 ? This will determine where the relay needs to be powered from.


The stereo draws a maximum 15 amps. Not sure about the washer pump. Any suggestions.
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2020 7:17 pm    Post subject: Re: Switched Fuses Reply with quote

shakers73 wrote:
The stereo draws a maximum 15 amps. Not sure about the washer pump. Any suggestions.


15 amps is a LOT for a stereo, typically 3 amps or so. I'd re-check that. They usually have an inline fuse of that size.

Electric washer pump would be small draw, I have them on both my VWs, just off an 8-amp fuse on the fuse box.
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2020 9:31 pm    Post subject: Re: Switched Fuses Reply with quote

Here are the specs on the stereo:

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2020 4:15 am    Post subject: Re: Switched Fuses Reply with quote

There is no way this radio could consume 15 Amps equal to 180 watts . Maybe a decimal place is missing and 1.5 Amps is correct.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2020 5:05 am    Post subject: Re: Switched Fuses Reply with quote

Pretty sure I just use an 8A fuse for Retrosounds. Unless you were adding power amps, you will be fine jumping from the switched hot to that fuse holder. Your washer pump draws very little. Keep in mind you also need a constant power for memory and just coming splitting off any of the low power non-switched if fine for that.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2020 5:30 am    Post subject: Re: Switched Fuses Reply with quote

possible the specs call for a 15 amp fuse for the feed but the current consumption, what current it's actually using, is .0035 amps
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2020 7:00 am    Post subject: Re: Switched Fuses Reply with quote

Runamoc, the unfused power is the row next to the relays connections. The top row is the "exit", the fused wires.
AFAIK, the radio needs two power connections: a fused direct battery connection (KL30) and a fused switched voltage connection (KL15). KL15 is just a wake/sleep signal, it does not draw a lot of power. But on KL30 it could draw more, for example ~4Amps if you listen to about 50W of RMS power (that's a LOT!!!). I think you can re-use Fuse 7 which is normally un-assigned for one of them. But you still need to add an in-line fuse for the other one...
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2020 10:46 am    Post subject: Re: Switched Fuses Reply with quote

tzepesh wrote:
... the unfused power is the row next to the relays connections. The top row is the "exit", the fused wires.

This is correct.

From your pic:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

You can see the INPUT side of the fuse as the connections where two fuses are connected together with a shared brass bar. If you look closely you will see that there are no bridged fuses along one edge (OUTPUT side) while nearly every fuse on the other edge are paired together. The bridged side is the INPUT side.
This bridge allows one source wire to power two fuses. The best example of this is the single yellow wire from the headlight dimmer relay which runs to fuse #4 (fourth from the right in your pic) but the bridge allows it to power both #3 and #4 fuses (left & right headlights).

Any wires connected to the INPUT side are NOT protected by the fuse. The wires on the OUTPUT side of the fuse are protected. When the fuse blows power to the OUTPUT side is interrupted. Because of this, be sure to disconnect the battery before doing any work on your fuse box.


You have three choices for connecting a power source to fuse #7:
    1) Run a jumper wire from the #11 or #12 fuse INPUT to the #7 INPUT. This draws power from the #15 ignition switched circuit. As mentioned above, pulling an additional 15A over the #15 circuit would not be desirable. But the #15 circuit should be able to handle an additional 5A without a big problem.

    2) Run a jumper wire from the #10 fuse INPUT to the #7 INPUT. This draws power from the #X ignition switched circuit. This circuit is similar the #15 circuit but is NOT powered while the engine is cranking. If you are okay with the stereo loosing power while cranking the engine this is a better source than #15. The #X circuit has a different path from the #15 and does not add more load to the #15 ignition circuit. #X was designed for non-critical devices.

    3) As suggested above, add a SPST (or SPDT) relay. The relay draws power from the INPUT side of the #8 or #9 fuse (#30 constant battery source) but is controlled by the #15 or #X circuits. Run a jumper wire from the relay OUTPUT to the #7 INPUT. By using fuse #8/#9 this arrangement draws power from the battery without adding a load to any switches. The load to energize the SPST relay is only around 0.05~0.10A. This is a very small load.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2020 2:02 pm    Post subject: Re: Switched Fuses Reply with quote

Thanks, Ashman40. So I can piggy back the #8 input side with a wire to terminal 30 on the relay. Connect another wire from terminal 87 to input side of fuse #7. Then a wire from terminal 85 to ground. Assuming all this is right, what would be a good source to run to terminal 86? Do I need to use 87a?
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2020 6:11 pm    Post subject: Re: Switched Fuses Reply with quote

If you're switching to a washer pump, do like I did and install a variable speed/ intermittent wiper switch at the same time. Is a terrific upgrade. Mine has the washer button in the center of the switch.
Had to change positions with the light switch due to clearance, but was well worth the effort.
Couldn't handle the constant leaks from the pneumatic washer system anymore. Gave it plenty of time with new switch, hoses, etc. but in the end I gave up. One fried radio due to leaking was enough for me...
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2020 7:03 pm    Post subject: Re: Switched Fuses Reply with quote

The switch I used:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/cole-hersee-3...DetailTab_
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2020 7:24 pm    Post subject: Re: Switched Fuses Reply with quote

shakers73 wrote:
Thanks, Ashman40. So I can piggy back the #8 input side with a wire to terminal 30 on the relay. Connect another wire from terminal 87 to input side of fuse #7. Then a wire from terminal 85 to ground. Assuming all this is right, what would be a good source to run to terminal 86? Do I need to use 87a?

That sounds correct.
Connect 86 to either fuse #11 or #12 OUTPUT. This will add a small 0.050A of extra load to the fuse. It should not be a problem for that circuit.


The 87a terminal is only found on the SPDT relay and is the NC (normally closed) circuit connecting to 30 when the relay is OFF. It is not used in this arrangement.
If you really want to be safe, apply some shrink wrap/tubing around the 87a terminal if you are not using a relay jack. This protects the exposed 87a terminal which will be an unfused "hot" anytime the ignition is OFF. If you are using a plug it will protect the unused terminal.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2024 2:09 pm    Post subject: Re: Switched Fuses Reply with quote

ashman40 wrote:
shakers73 wrote:
Thanks, Ashman40. So I can piggy back the #8 input side with a wire to terminal 30 on the relay. Connect another wire from terminal 87 to input side of fuse #7. Then a wire from terminal 85 to ground. Assuming all this is right, what would be a good source to run to terminal 86? Do I need to use 87a?

That sounds correct.
Connect 86 to either fuse #11 or #12 OUTPUT. This will add a small 0.050A of extra load to the fuse. It should not be a problem for that circuit.


The 87a terminal is only found on the SPDT relay and is the NC (normally closed) circuit connecting to 30 when the relay is OFF. It is not used in this arrangement.
If you really want to be safe, apply some shrink wrap/tubing around the 87a terminal if you are not using a relay jack. This protects the exposed 87a terminal which will be an unfused "hot" anytime the ignition is OFF. If you are using a plug it will protect the unused terminal.


I have a question Ashman40 & Shakers73-it appears that the fuse & relay panel on the 74 super has 3 slots for a 4 prong relay; shown in the first photo, down from my thumb. As long as you don't use the interlock relay & remove it, these spaces open up.This relay I found (I found 2 btw) in my box of parts (#53; part number 141-951-253B) is a 4 prong relay, and would be able to handle the load. Those relays fit right into the relay bank. Couldn't you use either 85 or 86 for the relay ground, as long as you use the other for the power? Those 2 terminals are connected to the coil inside the relay, so it shouldn't make a difference which side you'd use for the ground; correct? This would make it much easier to connect to these relays, by installing them in the fuse & relay panel. If you have any doubts regarding the ideas I have; please let me know. Thanks in advance!
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2024 9:08 am    Post subject: Re: Switched Fuses Reply with quote

Junkyardjockey wrote:
I have a question... This relay I found (I found 2 btw) in my box of parts (#53; part number 141-951-253B) is a 4 prong relay, and would be able to handle the load. Those relays fit right into the relay bank. Couldn't you use either 85 or 86 for the relay ground, as long as you use the other for the power? Those 2 terminals are connected to the coil inside the relay, so it shouldn't make a difference which side you'd use for the ground; correct?

Correct. 85 & 86 can be used interchangeably. As long as one is grounded and the other is powered with enough voltage to energize the relay coil (often as little as 6v) then the relay should function.
Technically, as long as there is enough voltage difference between the two the relay should energize. If the relay will function with 6v then... 12v+ on one terminal and 6v+ on the other will result in enough potential voltage difference for a 6v activated relay to work.


Junkyardjockey wrote:
If you have any doubts regarding the ideas I have; please let me know.

Go ahead and make use of those old relays. Very Happy
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2024 9:57 am    Post subject: Re: Switched Fuses Reply with quote

Jump BOTTOM of Fuse 12 to BOTTOM of Fuse 7 as shown

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Insert 8A fuse at Slot 7 and connect ACC wire to TOP of Fuse 7.
This will give you SWITCHED 12v for ACC.

Good Luck
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 20, 2024 5:42 am    Post subject: Re: Switched Fuses Reply with quote

OTTO 1303 wrote:
Jump BOTTOM of Fuse 12 to BOTTOM of Fuse 7 as shown

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Insert 8A fuse at Slot 7 and connect ACC wire to TOP of Fuse 7.
This will give you SWITCHED 12v for ACC.

This does functionally give you switched 12v at fuse 7, but adds to the load on the black #15 wire coming off the ignition switch. The internal #15 contacts in the ignition switch are further stressed by what ever load you add to fuse #7; resulting in premature ignition switch failure.

Adding the relay pulling high amp power from fuse #8/#9 means not adding to the ignition switch load. The low amp draw (85/86) from the 4-prong relays (100mA) adds a much smaller load to the ignition switch contacts.


Taking this to the next step... add the relay between the black ignition switch #15 wire and the fuse box. The 87 output of the relay powers #7, #11 and #12 fuses. This drastically reduces the current flow thru the igniton switch extending the life of the internal contacts.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 20, 2024 10:22 am    Post subject: Re: Switched Fuses Reply with quote

ashman40 wrote:
OTTO 1303 wrote:
Jump BOTTOM of Fuse 12 to BOTTOM of Fuse 7 as shown

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Insert 8A fuse at Slot 7 and connect ACC wire to TOP of Fuse 7.
This will give you SWITCHED 12v for ACC.

This does functionally give you switched 12v at fuse 7, but adds to the load on the black #15 wire coming off the ignition switch. The internal #15 contacts in the ignition switch are further stressed by what ever load you add to fuse #7; resulting in premature ignition switch failure.

Adding the relay pulling high amp power from fuse #8/#9 means not adding to the ignition switch load. The low amp draw (85/86) from the 4-prong relays (100mA) adds a much smaller load to the ignition switch contacts.


Taking this to the next step... add the relay between the black ignition switch #15 wire and the fuse box. The 87 output of the relay powers #7, #11 and #12 fuses. This drastically reduces the current flow thru the igniton switch extending the life of the internal contacts.


Good point.
I only have gauges and LED DRL’s on Fuse 7.
Anything else will get a relay, switched by Fuse 7.
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