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Horn Button Wire Screw Size
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Bugalooshrimp
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 3:39 pm    Post subject: Horn Button Wire Screw Size Reply with quote

Hello All,

The screw for the wire on the horn button for my 56 is missing. I have searched the forum to get info on the specs so that I could get one, but I am having no luck. Please post if you know the specs.

Thanks,
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JorgeDavidson
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 4:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The small bronze one in the center?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I took this pic as a reference; as I can see it´s missing too.
Just looking for someone that can hold the wire w/o peeping out too much the head off; it´s not a hard job.
Jorge
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johnshenry Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 5:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its an M2.5 I believe. PM me if you don't find an answer, I can measure one for you...
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Bugalooshrimp
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 9:36 am    Post subject: Horn Button Wire Screw Size Reply with quote

Hey Jorge,

Good picture. The center hole is actually where the wire goes. The screw is there on the side.

Thanks,

Carlos
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johnshenry Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2009 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, I checked, its an M2.5 with a .45 pitch. Normally a "grub" type screw with no head, just a slot. However in a pinch, there are a few other M2.5s in early VWs that can be used. Here is a table of all of the electrical HW specs (sorry for the un-formatting):

Location Shank (mm) Length (mm) Head (all slotted)

Dome light (early split, '51) 3 5 Pan
Gauge illumination lights 2.5 5 Cheese
Oil and gen warning lights 2.5 5 Cheese
Split dash pod headlight switch 3.5 6 Pan
Split dash pod wiper/interior light switch 3.5 6 Pan
Split dash pod ignition switch 3.5 6 Pan
Wiper motor, 6volt, non-parking 3 5 Cheese
Oil pressure switch (sender) 4 5 Cheese
Late oval SWF flasher 3.5 6 Pan
Headlight socket, early bayonet base 4 8 Cheese
Starter Solenoid 5 8 Cheese .8 pitch
Wiper base set screw 4.5 4 Set screw .75 pitch
"D" Regulator 4 6 Cheese
Taillights, '55-'61 4 8 Cheese
Headlight switch Oct '52-'57 3.5 6 Pan


So the screws on the backs of the dash bulbholders can also be used if needed.

I buy all my metric HW at mcmaster.com, they have that size, but you have to buy 100 of them....
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Bugalooshrimp
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 9:42 am    Post subject: Screw Size Reply with quote

John,

That is excellent! I'm going to put your list in an Excel list for future reference Smile. I may just have to buy 100. Hey, what is a cheese head? I have never heard of it. Thanks for your help.

Regards,

Carlos
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 10:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheese head is a round head that is pretty much like a very short cylinder, like a round "cheese". Pan head is also round, but the top part is beveled inward.

Go to mcmaster.com, they have pictures and drawings of everything.

I used to buy HW from them, and put together little "service" packs of 10 each of the 7 or so types of screws that are in that list, and sell them at zarwerks.com. But recently I have had to scale down to preserve my time and sanity, and I quit doing those small, inexpensive products.
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Bugalooshrimp
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 11:26 am    Post subject: Cheese Head Reply with quote

Thanks for all of the good info John.

Regards,

Carlos
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Splitdog
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

John, what is the screw size for split rear-view mirror? I'm having a tough time finding one that small with a large enough head. (no jokes, please) Laughing
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 1:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Splitdog wrote:
John, what is the screw size for split rear-view mirror? I'm having a tough time finding one that small with a large enough head. (no jokes, please) Laughing


Do you mean the sheet metal type screws for the interior rear view mirror?

I'll have to look at home. I usually use stainless steel pan head ones I get at the HW store (like maybe a #6?), but you would want a slotted one to be correct.

I'd test fit a few for the proper shank and thread (#),then order from McMaster a slotted head one.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 1:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right on. Cool
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FrankRam
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 4:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My horn just stopped working so when I took off the button, it's exactly like the above picture. It seems I'm missing the screw or it wore out. I understand it holds a wire. What wire? What else am I missing for contact? ?
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Splitdog wrote:
John, what is the screw size for split rear-view mirror? I'm having a tough time finding one that small with a large enough head. (no jokes, please) Laughing


Email me Jim if you still need these, I had a run of these made in stainless awhile back, they are a metric slotted oval head sheet metal screw, not a #6 (too small and will likely strip out) or an M8 (which is too big).
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FrankRam
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 12:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does the screw itself need to make contact with the round plate? Or is it strictly to hold the wire? I miss the beep as it was working fine. Anyone?
Thanks
Frank
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 12:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not the screw, but the rivet at the top of the barrel if you look at the other side. This rivet must touch the brass disk when the button is pressed.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 2:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brezelwerks wrote:
Splitdog wrote:
John, what is the screw size for split rear-view mirror? I'm having a tough time finding one that small with a large enough head. (no jokes, please) Laughing


Email me Jim if you still need these, I had a run of these made in stainless awhile back, they are a metric slotted oval head sheet metal screw, not a #6 (too small and will likely strip out) or an M8 (which is too big).


Thanks, Gary. I found some a few weeks back at an old-fashioned hardware store. You know, the good kind that aren't around anymore! Wink
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 3:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wish there was a picture of this rivet. The brass disc bulges out in the middle and touches to the screw area where the wire is connected on the other side. Other than that I don't see anything. Confused
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PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2009 7:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

FrankRam wrote:
Wish there was a picture of this rivet. The brass disc bulges out in the middle and touches to the screw area where the wire is connected on the other side. Other than that I don't see anything. Confused


When the horn button/spring is pushed the inside brass disc basically makes contact with the formed riveted head spot you can see on the inside center of the horn housing.

This riveted head you can see was originally a pin boss that is part of the ferrule (that has the side set screw you can see on the bottom), its all one piece. The top pin gets machine pressed on the inside and then it looks like a rivet head, so that it can be held firmly to the horn button housing, so its not actually a separate rivet.

There are no other pieces involved in this mechanism. This contact action only makes a ground connection so the horn actuates. So just make sure your ground connection is functional (continuity test it to chassis ground and the horn brush area on your steering column). Then check if your horn is getting power, if both power and ground is good then your horn is defective, good luck!
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PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2009 9:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The brush in the steering column does not provide a path to ground. It is a path between the negative terminal on the horn to the button, not chassis ground. This circuit is very often misunderstood. The steering column itself is grounded, to check the ground path, ohm out chassis ground to the bare metal inside the steering wheel cavity where the horn button sits. The path to chassis ground is via the steering shaft and steering box.

The horn is switched on its ground side, not its positive side and as such is not "grounded" unless the button is pressed.

Also, make sure there is bare metal in the steering wheel cavity where the horn button sits, where the spring coil wire sits just outside of the button housing. Very often, people paint steering wheels completely and over look this, and the horn won't work.

Diagram of the split/oval horn circuit:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


There is an article on horn wiring at my site thebugshop.org, in the tech help section.
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61karmann
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2020 12:08 pm    Post subject: Re: Horn Button Wire Screw Size Reply with quote

anyone know this screw size intended for the 82mm horn buttons in petri wheels? I believe the screw size is a little bigger as m2.5 is too small..
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