So, I just bought a 1977 Champagne? convertible Triple White

[chrisarnt]

[/quote]
Unless the old tank is full of holes once clean do everything you can to keep it, new parts just aren't as nice as the original stuff, tinny and fit poorly.
I'm also not fan of coatings unless there's pinholes, clean bare metal never peels away and blocks the outlet. Here's some reading on how to resurrect your tank: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=378770 , while it's out ream out the fuel lines through the tunnel as well, they'll be just as nasty inside.[/quote]

Ok. So it basically looks like these are the steps.
1. Pull tank.
2. Hose it out good
3. Pour a gallon of muratic acid in the tank and let sit for 30 minutes.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Rust gone:
4. Coat with POR.

But you were saying don't coat.
This is going to be a seasonal car usually sitting covered from December to May.

Should I coat this tank?

Frankly, If I can see that well into the tank and there is just light scaling, I might just hit it up with the shop vac and throw an extra filter right after the sender that I can pull and clean.

I bought a 1981 mercedes diesel that had just been driven around the block 4 times year for the past 10 years.
The prefilter kept getting clogged.
It turned out to be diesel algae... What!

[Randy in Maine]

Suggestion:

Call around to one of the "hot rod club guys" and ask them who does their gas tanks. Sometimes for about $200 they will come and get your tank and "boil it out" using caustics and sandblasting and then epoxy/bake line the tank. It is a deal.

Avoid using your shop vac due to explosion.

If you do it yourself "KBS Paint" makes a similar product for doing tanks.

If there is not too much rust in there, just some muriatic acid and a hunk of chain sloshed around in there for a few hours would likely do the number.

[chrisarnt]

I'm thinking that I may be going about this all wrong.

The first thing I should do is get it started.

I'll check the tank to see how rusty it is. If its just light surface I'll just put an extra filter right after the tank.

The tank did not even smell like varnish, so it may have been stored dry.

Years ago I bought a car that had been sitting and the owner pulled the plugs and poured some motor oil in the cylinders and let sit overnight prior to starting. He said it would soak the seals and prevent scoring if there was a little rust in the cylinders.

What are your thoughts on this?

[chrisarnt]

OK. Sorry to be a nudge...
I've had way too much time to think about this...

But I'm thinking if the tank is bone dry and doesnt smell or have laquered fuelk in it.. I will just try and start it and see what happens.

I'll throw a little oil in the cylinders first.

What am I going to screw anything up royally?

I probably should at least flush the fuel lines with some fuel first.

[gereonb]

What does the oil look like ?. If it is black and nasty I would replace the oil, then turn the motor on the starter for 30 seconds without the distributor on just to get some oil in the galleys.
It would be a good measure to unhook the fuel line and wash it through from the tank just to see that you get clean fuel coming out at the engine end. Then put your filter in and try running her.

[Randy in Maine]

Suggestion:

First off adjust the valves correctly. It has to be done when the engine is dead cold.

Find the fire extinguisher

Change the oil with the cheapest 30 weight oil you can find. 5.3 PINTS. Remove the spark plugs and give each cylinder a squirt of oil (or automotive transmission fluid) in there. With the plugs out , turn over the starter until the oil pressure light goes out.

Put in the properly gapped plugs (new if you have them). Put 2 gallons of gas in the tank and see if it will fire up. It should at least try to go. Start looking for fuel leakage at the fuel lines.

if the fuel pump is squealing, change out the filter and see how much rust is in the old one.

If you can get it to run, you done good.

Check the points and the timing to make sure they are correct. Assuming the tires are decent and it stops, take it for a test run.

Your next step will be to change the oil after about 50-100 miles. Re-adjust the valves to see if anything has changes. Get the new fuel lines run. Replace the rubber brake hoses and adjust the brakes.

[chrisarnt]

OK. So I got it at the house.
While it was on the tow he lifted it up and I got a good look.
The rubber brake lines are good/NEW
The floor pans not so great, but just bad along a seem. So I will hve my body guy throw a patch in there for now. (Not pulling apart the interior this year)

The right side rocker/jack points are SOLID... other side not so much.
Engine isn't seized.

Gonna do the above and see if she starts.

[wcfvw69]

Those fuel lines are WASTED.. Pls don't try to start it with them in place. Change them first.
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[Goldbug3318]

[chrisarnt]

Yes, they are wasted. A few broke off just while pulling the plugs.
I'm buying that hose kit for $100 listed above.

As I was blowing the motor off I noticed that there was dust collected just on the top belt by the alternator. I take this as a good thing because it tells me that no one sat there cranking away at this.
So I pulled the plugs they look fairly new. But were fouled.
One had two small spots of rust on the pins.
Not good, not terrible. My VW mentor said that cylinder must have had the exhaust valve open.
I tried to fill the cylinders with mystery oil and will let sit 48 hours.
I'll give crank it one revolution from the pulley and let sit another 24 then give it a few more slow turns before blowing it out...
I'm thinking maybe I should use a shop vac on that one cylinder... What say you?
Also, will do what was said about the oil with the dist cap off.

What about an electronic ignition to get rid of the points? I had that on my 79 westy.

Also, I have the VIN how can I tell if it has self adjusting hydraulic lifters?
VIN 1572083794

So to recap..
1. YES/NO on gently suctioning out the mystery oil from the the one questionable cylinder. (rust spotting on plug)
2. Electronic ignition? Yeah/Neah?
3. Hydraulic lifters?

[Randy in Maine]

1) While it is OK to shop vac the oil, or just turn over the engine with no plugs and the starter and the pistons will blow it out.

2) Keep the points in it until you get it running for a while. Then go to a pertronics if you wish. They like a nice clean electric supply that is constant.

3) No hydraulic lifters for you. You really would need to go to a hydraulic lifter camshaft to do that. Mofoco in WI does most of them on a type 1 engine.

By a couple of cans of Gibbs Lubricant and if you ever remove all of the tinwork on this thing to prove the cooling system is not all full of wasps nests, use that to put on the engine case as opposed to painting it. It has plenty of handy uses in the shop and on the car.

I am not sure just what the delivery time is for that fuel line for German Supply. Find out before you buy. The product is good but sometimes it take a long time to get to you. Otherwise piece it together from airhead parts or bus depot. Make sure you use the good FI clamps.

[chrisarnt]

I like the fact that it's all together and has the diagram.
I'm a bit scattered and that would help.
Thanks for the heads up on shipping..

I wouldn't go changing camshafts or anything.
Just the ignition to electric if need be.

Personally, I'm not a big fan of the late 70s steering wheel.
Might swap it out for a big old white one If I can come by one cheap.. but that's down the road..

I never thought of bees in the heating tubes.
The heat's disconnected and someone put tape over the tubes.
So I will just leave that until I get her running.

Thanks.

[Randy in Maine]

The wasps and mice like to build nests in the engine cooling system, not the cabin heating system.

If you end up cutting your own fuel line, these are well worth the money...(even though I think they were about $12 back then)

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-edge-utility-cutter/p-00937309000P

[wcfvw69]

[wrocek]

[busdaddy]

[Randy in Maine]

[chrisarnt]

[chrisarnt]

Boys boys.. play nice.

[chrisarnt]