So, I just bought a 1977 Champagne? convertible Triple White

[chrisarnt]

[chrisarnt]

OK. Does anyone know how far these tubes go into the tank?

Two of them are plugged by the sealer toward the end of the inner tube.
Air will not blow through the one on the left below the large filler hole and the one on the upper right that is long and snakelike.
When I shove wire in on the right is goes in 3.4 " before it stops.
The long snakelike one, the wire goes in 15" before it stops.
I'm guessing (hoping) I'm near the end of each one and I can maybe lube up the tubes and send the sire down super heated and melt through the last 1/4 inch.


Let me know your thoughts.

[chrisarnt]

[chrisarnt]

OK. Looks like all the inner tubes are free except the long one to the right.

I'm gonna have to replace that with some fittings and flexible copper pipe.

[chrisarnt]

I finally made the time to replace all the fuel lines filters and install the gas tank.
plugs wires, cap, rotor, coil,
I soaked the injectors, did not replace or send out for service like I should have. I soaked them in sea foam and gas and blew them out with compressed air.
The fuel pump is working, did not replace.
It is getting spark, will catch a little with starter fluid.
But....

No fuel comes out of the injectors...

I suspect they are not getting a signal.

I pulled the driver side rail and stuck it in a plastic baggie then turned the car over.
The injectors are BONE DRY...
I'd assume that they would squirt or dribble at least if they were clogged.

I bought several different remote starter buttons so I could run some tests and so forth... See if I am getting a pulse to injectors etc...
But the damn things only seem to trigger the solenoid at best and just heat up...
I know how to bridge the bolts on a starter... But these things don't seem to work on this car. So I cannot run tests while starting.

Anywho, whats the next logical step for injectors not firing...

I know what it is... I need to determine if the injectors are getting signal.


OK... So lets assume that they are not getting signal. Whats the next Step?

I'll test that in the morning.

And to Randy in Maine I cleaned up the engine bay and the tin shroud!

[Dwayne1m]

[chrisarnt]

I don't think I have a resistor block. I looked it up and it lowers the voltage to the injectors. But my manual says they all get 12volts.
Seems like a bus thing.
Anyway,

I discovered that the double relay was not grounded. The ground wire is not connected to anything So I I stuck the loose ground wire to the rear defroster into the back of the connector and the car fired up and ran a little on starter fluid.
Then I checked the injectors and they were squirting. Nice!!

Thats when I discovered that there are some grounding issues in the car.
When I grounded the double relay it would click once.
Then I noticed that even with the key off the fuel pump and brake light were still on.
Then when I stepped on the brake pedal they went off...
After several starting attempts. these would stay on but go off after about 20 seconds.

Then after a few more tries, they stayed on and they would lightly pulse very slowly.
And when I stepped on the brake (brake lights go on) the fuel pump would whir a little slower.
What are the common grounding issues?.



I tested all the injectors for continuity.
I tested the ECU as the manual states for resistance and continuity.

I replaced the coil and the fuel pump.
That definitely increased the fuel pressure as I could hear it going through the lines at the engine.


I also notice that the red and black wire going to terminal 86 was spliced into the hot heavy gauge wire going to the starter.

There was another 10 gauge red wire that went to the double relay that went through a connector. But the connector was getting hot and melting so I bypassed that and connected it to itself.

Also The braided ground wire was getting hot!

So there you have it..
Lemme know what ya think.

[Dwayne1m]

For future reference, the injector resister pack is hiding behind the right side tarboard. This is what it looks like.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1314221

[chrisarnt]

[Randy in Maine]

[chrisarnt]

[chrisarnt]

But I did read in my manual that the HP dropped by 12 on models with FI.
So...

[Randy in Maine]

They calculate it differently after about 1974 you know.....

[chrisarnt]

[garyt]

I did all the same things you are doing. I think I would leave the ECU and the double relay innards alone, just make sure all the connections are correct and there is nothing shorting in the wiring, especially the ignition circuit. The fact that it fired up at all is a very good sign. I found the wiring pretty important, because of the ECU and it seeming to know if things are not correct. It needs good voltage from the battery.

Anyway, even if you changed to carbs the wiring could still be bad, then there is jets etc to play with and aftermarket crap carbs and so on.

The FI goes really great when got right and the engine can still be tuned. The main problem is everyone is more familiar with carbs on a beetle, of course. I tend to read about L Jet on other cars, e.g. alfa romeos.

[Randy in Maine]

http://www.busdepot.com/071906059

It should look something like this.....

[chrisarnt]

[garyt]

Yep I guess, but if something is shorting in the wiring you don't want to ruin your nice new dble relay, so the wiring leading to it and from it has got to be correct or you won't know anyway if the relay is good or bad (in my opinion).

[chrisarnt]

[Chochobeef]