Driving Daisy – 72 Deluxe Refresh

[Hikelite]

[Tcash]

[airschooled]

[nathansnathan]

So I'd planned to get it running with these Dellortos since I don't know how to tune Solexes and I wanted to make sure it was all good with what I know to start with.

Carrera Parts, a manufacturer in Taiwan had pm'd me about using their linkage as I'd commented in a thread they announced it in. They sent me a free unit in exchange for photos of a stock bus install as they only have pics of upright cooling installs in their ad in the classifieds.

It's kind of a long story, but stock enthusiasts can be reassured that my end goal is to get it running with the stock oil bath system. The Dell linkage I plan to integrate with this setup that I was developing for my kombi which is already very not stock.

The bellcrank linkages I've messed with, the cable connects to an arm so in its motion, the throttle cable would be cutting a slot in the firewall over time. It's less of an issue when the motor is flipped around for mid engine I think, with the bellcrank being further from the front firewall. Here's the Carrera Parts linkage next to a csp linkage - the Carrera Parts is actually labelled Vintage Speed on the package.

I had it mocked up before installing the motor. These are csp 40mm matched port intake manifolds.

#3 sparkplug gets close but clears if you hold it out of the way with the wire clips.

The quick disconnect ends are pretty sweet. Like, at the carb side of the arms is right hand thread. You lock down those long hex coupler nut-looking things. They fit over the outside of the rod ends, but if you open the butterfly valve on the carb they come right off. So all the adjustment is at the inner when you're using them.

The throttle cable requires a hole be drilled in the firewall. -Just below the squarenut there.

So then I put the motor in, along with the transmission.

Some interference with my tailpipe and the over rider. I was thinking it's because of the bent over rider, but it's bent the other way, and would be worse than it is if it wasn't.

I took off the bumper for now. I diverted the throttle cable to go through a hole in the transmission bearer, and made this special cable guide out of a 1/2" bolt.

Hooked up some pcv stuff

Welded a 1/2 od aluminum tube to #3 manifold for the brake booster. Probably would have been cleaner to use #1 actually. I only had 2% thoriated electrodes and you're really supposed to use pure tungsten for aluminum I think is why it was such a challenge. to weld.

Well I still haven't started it. I've never used a mechanical fuel pump in my life so I'm not sure what the deal is, but after putting a gallon and then another gallon of fuel in the tank, I still don't see any fuel in the filter.

I'm not sure if it is some problem with the pump, or if you're supposed to prime it, or if you just turn it over until it works. I tried cranking it but I'm thinking this pump isn't working.

Anyway that's where it's at for now. I'm thinking of using an electric pump for now.

[Tcash]

Stupid questions.
Are the hoses hooked up right?
Do you have the correct pushrod. A lot of the rods where cut down.
IIRC there are two different lengths.

Pumps are self priming. But Pull the hose off the pump and gravity drain some gas into a can to make sure you have flow.

Good luck
Tcash

[nathansnathan]

[nathansnathan]

I took out the fuel pump - it's not possible to remove the upper left screw to hold the warm air duct without removing the starter seemingly, but I was able to remove the other 3 and pivot it out of the way enough to get the pump off.

It's a Brazilian pump. Foolish not to have gone through this earlier, but...

Some jelly in the spacer area. I took it apart and not only was the little plate under the spring glued to the seat, but under it was like a half inch deep plug on resinous gump. I cleaned it all up, but I didn't try it. I put it back together and moving the plunger in and out, it doesn't seem to make any pressure putting my fingers over the holes. Oh and the outlet nipple came out with the hose removing it.

I have a german one from another 72 (I think) motor - that one seems the same as far as making any pressure at the holes, feeling it. I assume a good one you'd feel something?

Anyway there seem to be no rebuild kits that I can find, so I ordered a new probably Brasilian one from busdepot. I see f I can get fuel at the regulator when it arrives.

[nathansnathan]

Delving into the tail lights, they looked so so, the lenses, but the bottom of the passenger side came off separate, and the top wouldn't come off at all. Nuts once held by plastic turning freely in what has become styrofoam, I had to break the lenses to get the rest off.

The plastic molecules had turned into worms and migrated to the reverse light area on the driver side.

Other goodies, late rear side markers with no seals held in by painter's tape scrunch anchors.

The passenger side was missing the side marker wiring, the driver the connector for it had broken inside the housing. I cleaned Up the wires of overspray and rejuvenated them with a glycerin rubbing.

Both sides were missing the backing covers. Too bad, I only have 1 original and a chinese aftermarket cover, these brazilian housings don't come with covers. I notched the connector to make it fit how the factory harness should be, the smaller connectors.

Because of how the contact for the double pole center bulb comes out in a different direction, you loose about 3 inches of your loom, there is just enough slack on the passenger side to do it. Makes it even harder to run the wiring so it doesn't want to pop off the covers, but I managed.

The side markers... I have 1 decent original housing with the threaded inserts to use 4mm machine screws. I've only got 1 of those screws currently.. The other side I have a chinese housing. I think the only boot you can get for the insides is the crapy one from the repops so I've got those. This stainless 8mm flathead allen hardware I had laying around works pretty well instead of ridiculous plastic clip things. I used an exacto to remove the lip from the surround seal so they would sit how theyre supposed to - the outer seals make these sit out too much from what I can tell - I did this awhile ago so I forget, but I had an original seal to compare and determined that lip had to go.

At some point I took off the rear bumper. Kind of disgusted that they didn't paint under it and it was a bit messed up beneath, I felt I had to do something about it before putting it back on.... I thought about stripping the paint from the whole back, but trying it just on the apron revealed too much damage to the original to make it worth it. The whole back of the bus is done in like really dry rattle can white. I was buffing the sides a panel at a time with my multispeed grinder buffer, a poly wool blend and some 3m cutting compound which made the back stick out extra, all rough and hard to clean, from the sort of smooth crappy aftermarket paint up front. So I decided to improve the rattle can with my own, canvas white rustoleum matched what was already on the back. I did below the belt, minus on the hatch which I left because I'd already put the emblem on and the inner panel, from the seam behind the gas flap, 1 side to the other. Like around the tail lights and side markers, the strip above the decklid. Rustoleum sprays like shit and I had all these runs. I wet sanded though and it fixed them. It did 300 and 600 grit and buffed it and it's like the nicest paint on the bus now. Makes me look at the sliding door track cover and wonder I I should take it off to get that rust covered. You can see the dryness on the hatch from the PO, and the pearl like look of what I did, it's like not as deep the shine as the real paint on the sides.

I put my other rear bumper on as it was not on my other bus anyway and is straight. At some point I'll switch them back, but this one is painted and nice already. The gravel guard I need to touch up, it looks really cool with this muffler - also the right tow hook makes a lot of sense with it.

[nathansnathan]

Well I got a new mechanical fuel pump, it's an Omega brand, looking to be chinese I would say. Anyway I installed it yesterday and it seems to work well enough so far. Pushrod is 4 1/2", same as before. Moving the plunger in the pump you can definitely fee and hear it working was what I'd wondered about the old.

So reading pressure at the regulator at 6psi, I put it down to 3psi, and got it to run by timing it statically to 8*btdc. I'm running the dual Dell drla 40s and a 005 fully mechanical distributor to make things easy, but still have run in to some issues.

I unhook the linkage after starting it and somehow the left 3-4 carb is pulling at like 10 on the unisyn where the right 1-2 is only pulling like 3, but the 3-4 side the throttle stop is backed off the whole way, and I can't get it to do any less if you get me. It doesn't make much sense to me how they could be so uneven and even less sense on how the one could do so much with fully closed butterflies.

I'll give it another go today. I was thinking maybe the brake booster is bad as that is tied to the #3 manifold right now, though #4 is pulling evenly with #3 so I'm not too hopeful that's it.

I thought maybe the idle jet is plugged on the right 1-2 carb, but if it ran as well as the left, the idle would be like 2000rpms or something minimum. So weird...

[Spike0180]

[nathansnathan]

[nathansnathan]

I set the floats as they were both off a little. I had another issue, a leak at the line going into the regulator, somehow the fuel hose was actually torn? I wasn't able to test it though as another issue arose, a drip from the fuel pump. I caught it on film.

I had to loosen the pivoting outlet piece to rotate it in order to clear the warm air intake duct. No matter how I tightened it, it dripped from there. Examining it, there are 3 washers stacked inside. I took 1 washer off thinking it was keeping it from seating on the o-ring. The metallurgy is like butter, 1 crank and it tore the middle off the piece, and the pump is basically ruined.

At this point I've lost all confidence in mechanical fuel pumps. Is there one I should be looking for, some brand? Can I rebuild the german 1 I have? It seems to need only the diaphragm?

[nathansnathan]

It seems the only mechanical fuel pump available for a type 4 motor is the crappy, leaking, breaks-when-you-touch-it, made in China Omega brand. Sad to say I'll be trying a facet pump I have laying around.

[NoBudgetVWGarage]

Welcome to the 72 life my friend! Weird isn't it? My original pump didn't work, and tried one of those Chinese ones from CIP1. It didn't work either, but it took me soo long to install it I never tried returning it. Ended up with a low pressure electric pump I purchased from AutoZone for about $50. Seems to work pretty good. I'm currently running Dual Dellorto 36's on a 2L, but also worked well with my 1700 w/ the same Dells.
The kit for the fuel pumps are getting harder to find and are around $100 if you do. Can you use the diaghram (sp?) from the chinese unit to rebuild the original?
_________________
1969 Transporter
1968 Ghia
1959 Ghia Hot VW Drag Car

[nathansnathan]