Transmission cooler

[Itsamoto]

[Zeitgeist 13]

I finally got the cooler installed -- twice. I originally installed it with the hose supplied with the Sonax kit, but was a little queasy about the fitment since the hoses were too taut for my comfort. I ended up moving the core further to the center and added longer hoses. When I pulled the hoses off I saw how dark the ATF was so I decided to change the fluid and filter. While the fluid was dark and there was some tiny swarf suspended, I didn't find any other detritus in the pan, and it didn't smell burnt. Unfortunately the plastic overfill tube was broken, so I can't fill it until it leaks out the drain hole any longer.

I guess I'll just try snaking a tube down from the top and fill it with four liters + one pint for the core--as per GoWesty instructions on their site. Or do I need to account for fluid left in the TC and dial back that fluid amount?
_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[jjvincent]

I just have a funnel with a hose on it. It works fine.

If you drop the pan and change the filter, there's an unofficial way that I would never endorse in a million years because it's really wrong and just the absolute worst thing you could ever do.

Since we have the disclaimer out of the way. Using the forbidden method, you can put the van on level ground and take out the drain plug but leave the stovepipe in. Fill the transmission until it runs out all over the ground. Start the van and then put more in it until it runs all over the ground and makes an even bigger mess. Put the plug in on the fill and drain. Go out and drive the van for 5 minutes. Park it back over that Exxon Valdeez spill you created. Go under the van and take the drain plug out and let it add to your existing mess. When it's just dripping out, install the plug and then call Hazmat.

That will get you close enough for what you need. Again, never do this method as it's just not the right thing to do even if we are being attacked by aliens or zombies. It's not worth the risk.

[Turk.380]

[Zeitgeist 13]

It turns out that my Napa ATF funnel with flexible hose fit perfectly. I added four liters of liquid gold and just let it be. Unfortunately I don't have the option of filling until it overflows because that plastic tube is broken off above the drain hole. One of these days I'll just buy that dipstick setup and resolve this problem for good.
_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[pinetreeporsche]

[Itsamoto]

[swsl]

[markcm2]

I monitored temps on our recent trip down and back on the west coast while ambient temps were around 60-80 during the day. I have a German Transaxle kit without t-stat. Average transmission temps were 120-150, lows were around 100.

Normal climbs like a pass where I could maintain average speeds of 60mph or better (assuming the torque converter was fairly well locked up) my temps would rise up around 205.

In one case entering the sequoia national park from the southern (Three rivers) side the climb is pretty brutal. Speeds range from 10-35mph while elevation climbs several thousand feet. Ambient was probably around 60 while transmission temps hovered in the 240-250 range for the last 20-30 minutes of the climb. Our 2001 MV weekender Westy was loaded with 4 people, all our gear for 2 weeks, a rooftop space box, and a 5' wide aluminum hitch mounted cargo box on a steel swing hitch (the hitch weighs 40lbs alone).

I'm pretty sure my transmission has Redline D4 in it which led me to wonder what the operating temps are on such a fluid. I didn't find it directly on the site so I gave them a call and spoke to an application engineer who was very friendly and helpful. Here are some points I picked up from my questions that ya'll might be interested in if you don't already know:

Q: Is 240-250F for 20-30 minutes enough to degrade the performance of the D4 fluid, and should I change my fluid now?
A: Not at all, D4 will not be compromised at 250F. Generally speaking though, seals may begin to soften around 295, and hard parts such as clutch discs could start to see surface effects around 325-350; you'd be advised to keep your temps below 300.

Q:Some of us are using thermostats (set at about 190) in our Transmission cooler circuits (recommended by GoWesty); do you see this a benefit and is this a good temperature?
A: Yes, a thermostat is a good idea and 195 is perfect. Benefits of running a Tstat at this temp are reduced friction compared to cooler fluid such as the 120F you mentioned which can reduce lubrication and increase fuel consumption (effects of the higher viscosity at lower temps); both negative impacts. Running cooler also prevents heat from evaporating off any condensation in the ATF that may have accumulated. I would advise installing the thermostat for best performance.

[swsl]

I know that road up into that part of the park. That's when you want the best cooling possible!

Thanks for sharing all this good information. Your running temperatures as well. Interesting feedback from Redline about the value of a thermostat - one that runs closer to 195.

And good to know the temp range these top synthetics can handle.

So, if a thermostat is recommended, is the German Transaxle kit still a safe bet after some (or just one?) plumbing failure? They claim to use quality hoses and include a thermostat. Subbing in the better clamps, though. With their guarantees and experience one would think that GTA and GoWesty would be including the best plumbing setup they can put together.

[robert reese]

So I have read the posts and still wondering what is the cooler of choice? I will be installing it myself , prices are with in a 100 dollars from low to high ,installation ease would help for sure. So witch one would YOU buy.

[Zeitgeist 13]

[RichBenn]

Does anyone know the barb size for the splice in the coolant hose? I`m not using the Sonnax adapter(like Isamoto) and need to source one at the local flaps.
_________________
Rich

[nsidhu]

Hi Everyone,

I'm trying to install the transmission cooler on Rialta and in a situation that cannot wait to get the fittings shipped. I already have the original cooler out and trying to find the fittings that I saw in the post but having hard time finding them in the local stores. Can someone suggest me where I can find these fittings 12mm x 1.5mm with o-ring and barb on the other side.

Any help is appreciated as I'm leaving for 4000km road trip next week.

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[nsidhu]

It’s done it was pretty easy after I spent $90 to get the fittings from performance shop. I had to get 12mmx1.5 to 3/4 male dapper and then 90 degree 3/4 female to automotive barb fitting. The shop person told me that these are automotive grade barb fitting and I don’t need a clamp. In the end it was pretty easy. Let’s hope no leaks like other have experienced here.

[Zeitgeist 13]

Do you have brands and part #s?
_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[RichBenn]

[Ejspada]

How has the transmissionn been ? Did you install a temp gauge? What temperatures are you running ? What transmission fluid are you running?

[quote="ovsa"]O.k. Finally got around to installing an aftermarket Transmission Oil cooler on my 1996 EVC


Bought it from Macko out of Fla. They were having a sale so though it should go for it.

Watched Tex Pigeon video first on U-tube but because he demonstrates on a Rialta, my installation was different.

[white74westy]

[MrPulldown]