How to check fuel pump?

[Bobnotch]

[potterjon]

That sounds a little easier than pulling the sender and checking it with the voltmeter while I move the float up and down. Thanks a lot.
If that makes it work do I just leave it grounded?

[potterjon]

So I did that test and didn't get any response from the needle. I know I had a good ground because I also checked the gauge. I will reach out to Jim as we are sending the fuel pump back to him already.

[potterjon]

So I received the fuel pressure regulator today but I'm not sure how to hook it up the the fuel rail. From what I understand it goes on the nipple between injectors 3 and 4 on the left side of the fuel rail if I am looking at the engine from the back. Can someone enlighten me as to how I attach it? I am not trying to leave it hooked up all the time. I would also like to know if it is necessary to have a few feet of hose hooked up to it so that I can see it while I turn the key?

[Donnie strickland]

You mean the pressure gauge, right?
You use a piece of fuel hose to hook it to the test port. After removing the little screw and washer, slip the hose over the test nipple and clamp it, then do the same with the gauge. Depending on which gauge you have, you may need a fitting to be able to attach the hose to it.
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71 Elm Green FI A/T Squareback

[potterjon]

Thx Donnie , that's exactly what I meant. I got the gauge that you linked to. Do I have to let the pressure out of the line before I unscrew the test port ? If so, how do do do that? I read somewhere that I had to just unscrew the gas cap but that doesn't seem correct to me.

[raygreenwood]

[Donnie strickland]

When you take the screw out, a little fuel will spurt out, which is normal. Just don't do this with a hot engine! And let that gas evaporate before you start the engine.

You are correct, removing the gas cap will have no effect.
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71 Elm Green FI A/T Squareback

[potterjon]

Thanks, I will try and do that as soon as possible. )

[potterjon]

I won't go into details but I ended up getting a fuel pressure gauge from my FLAPS today. I still plan on getting the one you guys recommended but I don't have it yet.
With the key in the on position, the pressure was right on 30 psi but with the engine running it was at 33 psi. It didn't waiver at all when hitting the throttle. About 20 minutes after the car was turned off, the pressure was down to 16.
I know I have vacuum leaks because some of the lines are not clamped and one of the intake runner sleeves is not all the way on. I plan on fixing that as soon as I have time and I will more than likely replace the injector seals at the same time. Am I correct in thinking the pressure drops so quickly due to vacuum leaks? Does this also tell me that the pressure regulator is working fine but it needs adjusting to drop the pressure because it is a new fuel pump? It is idling very high and it kind of hard to hold the car back with your foot on the brake. I am not really sure where to start. I don't want to touch the idle because I assume the fuel pressure is high and not the actual idle. I won't be able to work on the car for a week or two at this point so I have some time to soak in all the info I can in the mean time. Thanks a lot!
Also, the little washer that was on the test port underneath the screw sheared in half when I was removing it. Can I just use any old washer that fits or is there a certain one needed?
I will put some pics up because I know how much everyone likes pictures. The first one is with the key on and the second one is with the engine running.

[KTPhil]

Assuming the gauge is accurate, I'd turn it down to 30 with the engine running.

I would like to find a source of those metal washers, to keep a couple of spares in the car. Ray has posted: "The aluminum sealing washer can be made from backing washers for pop rivets wwith a little reaming in the center...or sometimes you can buy those at ACE Hardware."

Before installing it, make sure the fitting has a nice flat surface for the washer to seal against. Same for the corresponding sealing surface of the tiny screw. He also posted regarding the screw: "The screw that plugs the fuel pressure test port is part # N 90 121 1 in my book...and is listed as M4 X 8mm. It should be .7 pitch."

Don't over tighten the screw, just enough to seal.

[Donnie strickland]

You can make a washer out of some scrap aluminum sheet, if you have access to some. That's what I did.

Adjust your regulator so that you have 28-30 psi running.

Yes, clamp all your vacuum lines, and the intake runners, and replace the injector seals. No, that has nothing to do with your fuel pressure dropping to 16 with the key off. That's all right for it to do that.

Only adjust your idle after you have checked and adjusted your valves, points, and timing, in that order.
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71 Elm Green FI A/T Squareback

[raygreenwood]

33 psi is too high. Most flaps gauges and Home Depot water pressure gauges......are class B or even C gauges. The accuracy is not great. ...can be.....but they are cheap.

35 psi is the limit on these injetors where they no longer seal at high cycle rates. With that in mind.....with a gauge of KNOWN accuracy....33 psi is the absolute limit.

Set it to 28 psi....not 30. You can always go up....but what if the gauge is off by -3 psi?....its common.

Also....and I'm pretty sure I went through this. The primary reason the pressure drops quickly...has nothing to do with vacuum. 90% of the time its a leaking regulator. 5% of the time a leaking pump check valve. About 5% of the time...its a leaking injector....but injectors are not that quick on bleed down unless they are leaking horrendiusly.

Have you removed the injectors yet to check spray pattern and replace injector seals?. That should be done to verify there are no leaks.

To check if the fuel pump is bleeding. down....to check this.m..have a clamp ready to clamp the jnlet line over by #3 cylinder. Have the gauge in the system. Have the engine running and note fuel pressure.

Have an assistant turn off the key when you signal. Within that same second clamp the inlet line so preszure cannot bleed back through the pump.

If you have checked your injectors and know they are not leaking.....and you clamp off the pump.....and it leaks down.m...its the fuel pressure regulator.

All old regulators and regulators that have sat will modern fuel for any long length of time are suspect.
See my fuel pressure regulator thre add in the 411/412 forum from a week ago to understand why. Ray

[potterjon]

So it has been awhile since I have posted because I haven't really had time to mess with the squareback this summer. I was out of town most of the summer for work and my wife would crank the car every couple of days to make sure it was working but she didn't drive it at all. Of course , eventually it stopped starting and sat for several weeks until I could get back to it. I messed with some of the ignition wires and the car cranked right up after I charged the battery. So I assumed it was just a loose wire in the ignition.
I was planning on turning the idle down and checking the valve clearance and timing etc. I borrowed a timing light from a buddy and went out to crank it up today but now she won't crank again. I know I have fuel pressure because the gauge is still hooked up and I hear the two clicks I need to hear but there is no spark. How do I use my multimeter to check the coil? The battery is showing 12.8 volts. I have read many ways to check the coil and when I put the multimeter leads on the positive and negative terminals and set the meter to OHMS 200 I get a reading of 4.6
Does this tell me that the coil is still good? It's fairly new. How else can I check it with the multimeter? How do I check to see if I have 12 volts going to it?

[potterjon]

I charged thee battery overnight and to my surprise she cranked up. The charge on the battery was 12.94 this morning when it was fully charged. Doesn't seem like that much of a difference but now I am thinking maybe it is a parasitic drain somewhere. Any thoughts?

[raygreenwood]

[potterjon]

Thx for the response Ray. I really appreciate it because it always tests good at my FLAPS. Which never seemed right because if the car sits for any length of time longer than a couple days (this time just under 48 hrs) the car won't crank and I have to charge the battery.
Of course, now it is misfiring and popping and can barely make it down the road. We have a small turn around a few hundred yards down a hill from our house and the car barely made it down there and back and was kicking out lots of black smoke and stuttering. In addition to that, I can't get the Fuel Pressure regulator to budge at all to get it down to the 28-30 psi range. It's sitting right at 33 psi with this cheapo gauge that I am using. The car has literally just been sitting for the last 3 months or so. What could have changed?

[potterjon]

I believe I had just twisted the pressure regulator a bit and kinked the fuel line going to it. It is running much better now but still has a misfire it sounds like some where on the left side. Additionally, when I put it in drive, the car sort of lurches and the same when I put it in reverse. While reading in the bentley in the transmission section troubleshooting it says that the idle needs to be adjusted. So I am not sure which to do first. The idle or the fuel pressure. But seeing as how I can't get the pressure regulator to turn at all I am thinking I will adjust the idle?
The pressure regulator is underneath the manifold pipes and extremely difficult to get to. I am thinking it may not be located correctly. It also isn't bolted down anywhere at all which makes adjusting almost impossible as it just spins and there isn't anything holding it in place which is how I kinked the fuel line I suppose.
I know I have lots of questions. Now I am reading about how to use a dwell meter. Where should I start?

[raygreenwood]

[potterjon]

I don't see any locknut on the back of the pressure regulator at all. It's just stuck through a metal plate with a fuel line clamped on the other side. Also, that metal plate is not attached to anything so it moves around. I also cannot budge the lock washer on the front of the regulator. It's very hard too see. I am considering removing the intake manifold to get to it.