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rcjunky Samba Member
Joined: January 29, 2005 Posts: 83 Location: KCMO area
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Posted: Wed Oct 16, 2019 1:53 pm Post subject: Brake warning light coming on |
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I recently bought a 1970 Beetle and the right rear tail light was not working properly, like the wires were not going to the correct bulbs. I got the lights working correctly now, but now the brake warning light in the center of the dash lights up when applying the brakes. If I take the tail light bulb out of the socket the dash light does not come on. Tried a different bulb and still the same. So I would think its getting some type of back feed from the wiring going to the socket. Any ideas what to look for or how to fix?
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FreeBug Samba Member
Joined: March 12, 2012 Posts: 4278 Location: deepest, darkest Switzerland
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Posted: Wed Oct 16, 2019 2:01 pm Post subject: Re: Brake warning light coming on |
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On the rear light, do not simply content yourself with making it work. Check the wiring, which wire goes where from the colors and a diagram.
The brake warning light comes on when there is a pressure problem in the master cylinder, normally. Try looking there. |
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rcjunky Samba Member
Joined: January 29, 2005 Posts: 83 Location: KCMO area
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Posted: Wed Oct 16, 2019 2:12 pm Post subject: Re: Brake warning light coming on |
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Thanks for the answer, I understand what your saying. That's what I was starting to look, the brake pressure. Its just weird that the warning light didn't come on until I got all the functions on the tail light working correctly. Then also when I remove the tail/stop light bulb out of the socket, the dash light does not come on. When I unhook the rear brake pressure switch from the master cylinder it does not light. Then with just the rear master cylinder pressure switch plugged in the dash light glows dim when the brakes are applied. But with both pressure switches plugged in the light is bright. But it just seems like its getting something off of that bulb socket since it does not light when no bulb is in the socket. |
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baldessariclan Samba Member
Joined: October 14, 2016 Posts: 1385 Location: Wichita, KS
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Posted: Wed Oct 16, 2019 4:33 pm Post subject: Re: Brake warning light coming on |
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Check and clean all connections and grounding points at the the taillights, and etc. — with poor connections / grounding at those locations, you can get all sorts of weird effects as the voltage seeks alternate paths through the brake system wiring and circuitry... _________________ 1971 Standard Beetle — fairly stock / driver
baldessariclan -- often in error, never in doubt...
Last edited by baldessariclan on Wed Oct 16, 2019 4:42 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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KTPhil Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006 Posts: 34023 Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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Posted: Wed Oct 16, 2019 4:38 pm Post subject: Re: Brake warning light coming on |
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baldessariclan wrote: |
Check and clean all grounding connections at the the taillights, and etc. — with poor grounding at those locations, you can get all sorts of weird effects as the voltage seeks alternate paths through the brake system wiring and circuitry... |
X2. That lamp circuit must be finding another path. I'd fix this fast just in case there really is a brake problem. Do you have a firm pedal? Does it sink any lower than usual when pressed HARD?
The warning lamp circuit changed at one point from a separate circuit to one that uses 3-pole switches instead of 2. Add to that the iffy quality of replacement switches and you have some real diagnosing to do with a VOM to be sure. Not brain surgery, but a little tedious. |
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rcjunky Samba Member
Joined: January 29, 2005 Posts: 83 Location: KCMO area
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Posted: Wed Oct 16, 2019 5:14 pm Post subject: Re: Brake warning light coming on |
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Thanks for that info, I'll look at the grounding conections. The pedal feels firm and stops great. It has the dual 3 pole switches on it. |
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Dark Earth Samba Member
Joined: December 22, 2015 Posts: 1054
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Luft kühl Samba Member
Joined: January 21, 2009 Posts: 1178 Location: Allentown, PA
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Posted: Thu Oct 17, 2019 7:08 am Post subject: Re: Brake warning light coming on |
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KTPhil wrote: |
The warning lamp circuit changed at one point from a separate circuit to one that uses 3-pole switches instead of 2. Add to that the iffy quality of replacement switches and you have some real diagnosing to do with a VOM to be sure. Not brain surgery, but a little tedious. |
They are not 3 pole switches. They are single pole,double throw switches.
While it may not be brain surgery, using the correct terminology is still important. |
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ashman40 Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2007 Posts: 15989 Location: North Florida, USA
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Posted: Thu Oct 17, 2019 7:19 am Post subject: Re: Brake warning light coming on |
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It sounds to me like you have your brake switches or taillights wired incorrectly.
Normally when you press on the brakes it closes BOTH brake switches allowing current to flow from the fuse box, thru the brake switches, thru the brake lamps to ground. Current flows towards the rear of the car.
If your case, it sounds like current is flowing FROM the taillights backwards to the brake switches. Or current coming into the brake switches are being incorrectly routed to the brake warning lamp.
Double check the wiring at both taillights. Here is a pic of the taillight wiring from Speedy Jim's site:
Note that the parking lights and brake lights are two filaments in the SAME (dual-filament) bulb. Make sure you have the correct 1157 bulb installed in the middle position of the taillights. You would not be the first to discover they incorrectly have a single-filament 1156 bulb installed in the dual-filament socket. Look in the socket and at the bottom of the bulb; the number of contacts should be the same. Also, this bulb will only fit into the socket one way. The prongs at the bottom of the bulb are offset. Look at the grooves in the socket and the prongs on the bulb. Make sure they fit correctly.
Here is a pic from Speedy Jim that shows how the brake switches work:
Use your VM and a jumper wire to test all the wires at the two brake switch plugs when they are completely disconnected from both switches and when only one or the other is connected.
With the ignition ON, there should be constant 12v at the black #82a INPUT wires at both plugs. Make certain the black wire is connected to the correct brake switch terminal (sometimes the wires are installed in the wrong position). Unlike the 2-prong pre-69 switches, THE WIRES ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE. Each wire must be installed in the correct position on the switch. Follow the diagram above.
Test both the #81 and #81a wires at the plugs. These are OUTPUT wires and should NOT normally have voltage. Repeat the test with the parking lights ON. If voltage is comes in on the #81 wire it could mean bad grounds at the taillights.
Using a jumper wire, connect the #82a and #81 wires at the plug. This simulates stepping on the brakes. With the ignition ON the brake lights should turn ON. Test this individually for both brake switch plug.
With both plugs disconnected, using a jumper wire, connect the #82a and #81a wires at one of the plugs. This forcibly powers the brake warning lamp. With the ignition ON the brake warning lamp should be ON. Test this individually at both brake switch plugs.
You can simulate a brake switch failure by disconnecting just one plug and using a jumper wire to connect the #81 and #81a female connectors in the disconnected plug. Step on the brakes and the brake warning lamp turns ON when the rear brakes turn ON. The brake warning lamp becomes a 3rd brake lamp. Repeat the test on the other plug.
Looking at the diagram you and see that with one switch disconnected and no jumper wires there is no way current is supposed to make it to the brake warning lamp over the #81a wire. The only way current normally reaches the brake warning lamp is with current flowing thru one switch and backwards thru the failed switch. If you disconnect one of the plugs from the switch there should NEVER be voltage on the #81a wire. Try to identify how your brake warning lamp wire (#81a) is powered?
Also look for stray wires. I recall someone finding one of the wires inside their brake switch plug/boot had become frayed and was shorting between wires. This requires opening up the plugs and closely looking at all the wires. _________________ AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!} |
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