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mcdonaldneal
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Joined: June 13, 2013
Posts: 2652
Location: Gullane, Scotland
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c21darrel
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Joined: January 22, 2009
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Location: San Dimas
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mcdonaldneal
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Joined: June 13, 2013
Posts: 2652
Location: Gullane, Scotland
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 Posted: Sun Feb 15, 2015 12:28 pm Post subject: |
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| c21darrel wrote: |
| Let us know how the Gibbs works, always been interested in that stuff. Thanks |
I like it.
You're supposed to be able to use it as a cleaning solvent, but it's a bit expensive for that (at least in the UK!) I've been using it as the final clean on bare metal, and it dries to a nice dull sheen, which is supposed to be rust protective to an extent.
The only painted metal I have used it on is the oil cooler, but it dried to look quite good. That, along with other suggestions on TS made me try it on the tinware, hoping for a nice shine, and some protection for the slightly rusty areas. As I say, I've painted the under surfaces that can't be seen directly as a hard wearing finish.
Hope to start putting it back together soon, and then I'll post some pics of it dried down.
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1978 marino yellow Bay Dormobile camper
1969 signal orange Karmann Ghia convertible
1976 martini olive Bay Dormobile camper
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mcdonaldneal
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Joined: June 13, 2013
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Location: Gullane, Scotland
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mcdonaldneal
Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2013
Posts: 2652
Location: Gullane, Scotland
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| Posted: Mon Feb 16, 2015 4:42 am Post subject: |
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When I inspected the underside of the rubber seal channel I can see that the rear valance (?) has a fair bit of surface rust. Again the left side is worse.
I think here some black POR would be good, as I have a fresh, half used tin!
The inside of the bumpers is also pretty rusty, but I think I'll leave those for now, and think about taking them off and then spraying them the body colour. I haven't seen pictures, but I've heard that makes it look like they're reflecting from the bodywork. Anyone seen or done this?
I can see the question coming soon, 'how far do you go, when you're trying to keep it looking like a cleaned up 'survivor''? Clearly no good answer, but comments welcome!
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1978 marino yellow Bay Dormobile camper
1969 signal orange Karmann Ghia convertible
1976 martini olive Bay Dormobile camper
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moogie32
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2005
Posts: 663
Location: Connecticut
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| Posted: Mon Feb 16, 2015 7:14 am Post subject: |
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I am really enjoying this thread! It's nice to see a car preserved rather than restored. Keep up the good work - they're only original once.
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RIP HBB (1984-2009)
Du liefst so gut
Du warst so schön
Doch leider musst du von uns gehn |
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mcdonaldneal
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Joined: June 13, 2013
Posts: 2652
Location: Gullane, Scotland
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| Posted: Mon Feb 16, 2015 8:40 am Post subject: |
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While I'm waiting for the POR metal prep to work, I'm putting the fan shroud together. Generator is on in the correct orientation now 
I've attached the thermostat flaps, but I'm confused by the bag of springs and clips I got with them from Awesomepowdercoat.
I have these parts, which I will call grip clip (3of), small washer (eight), spring clip (6) and large washer (4)
It strikes me that I have too many of some things, and not enough of others!
I've tried fitting one of everything onto each of the posts from the flaps through the long operating lever, but they don't fit! The grip clip won't fit on top.
Searching the Samba hasn't got me very far forward, but some photos show just a washer and the spring clip, some just the washer and a grip clip.
Advice please!
_________________
1978 marino yellow Bay Dormobile camper
1969 signal orange Karmann Ghia convertible
1976 martini olive Bay Dormobile camper
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mcdonaldneal
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Joined: June 13, 2013
Posts: 2652
Location: Gullane, Scotland
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mcdonaldneal
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Joined: June 13, 2013
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Location: Gullane, Scotland
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c21darrel
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Joined: January 22, 2009
Posts: 8211
Location: San Dimas
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| Posted: Mon Feb 16, 2015 11:34 am Post subject: |
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Looking good! All the stuff you are doing will help your Ghia live a longer life!
If I was working with you on your little repairs I would offer this...
A little 80 grit on the under side there to get rid of as much of the undercoating/rust pre POR will go a long way. Maybe start with a stiff putty knife to scrape away as much as possible. There is usually rust under it too.
If you drop those little springs for the thermo flap set up into a little phosphoric acid jar for about 15 minutes they will look new. Silver, metal color rattle can will keep them protected. Same silver paint on the underside of the bumpers too. Sand and POR first of course. Great work, carry on.
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GhiaBuild
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=481184
1967 DC build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=693583&highlight=67+dc
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mcdonaldneal
Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2013
Posts: 2652
Location: Gullane, Scotland
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| Posted: Mon Feb 16, 2015 11:49 am Post subject: |
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| c21darrel wrote: |
Looking good! All the stuff you are doing will help your Ghia live a longer life!
If I was working with you on your little repairs I would offer this...
A little 80 grit on the under side there to get rid of as much of the undercoating/rust pre POR will go a long way. Maybe start with a stiff putty knife to scrape away as much as possible. There is usually rust under it too.
If you drop those little springs for the thermo flap set up into a little phosphoric acid jar for about 15 minutes they will look new. Silver, metal color rattle can will keep them protected. Same silver paint on the underside of the bumpers too. Sand and POR first of course. Great work, carry on. |
Thanks.
Pretty much did as you suggest, wire wheel, putty knife and some rough paper. The reason I didnt take the undercoat further back was that the paint was in pretty good condition when the underseal was put on a couple of years ago. I g
Yes the problem with that kind of waxy seal is that you never know when is the right time to strip it off and treat again!
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1978 marino yellow Bay Dormobile camper
1969 signal orange Karmann Ghia convertible
1976 martini olive Bay Dormobile camper
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Bleyseng
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Joined: July 03, 2005
Posts: 4752
Location: Seattle
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| Posted: Mon Feb 16, 2015 3:38 pm Post subject: |
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I would clean it and spray it with a rust convertor like Ospho. I am doing that to mine as I have the transmission and engine out.
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70 Ghia Black convert-9/69 build date-stock w/133k 1600 SP-barn find now with a rebuilt tranny and engine
77 Westy 2.0L w/Ljet, Camper Special engine-95hp and with LSD!(sold)
76 Porsche 914 2.1L L20c, 120hp Djet (sold)
87 Syncro Westy Titan Red 2.1L 2 knob 100k miles |
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mcdonaldneal
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mcdonaldneal
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VWKC
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Joined: December 04, 2012
Posts: 42
Location: Kansas City, Missouri
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| Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2015 7:10 am Post subject: |
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Thanks so much for sharing your work in such detail. I am getting ready (sooner than later) to do many of the same tasks. Your threads have significantly added to my confidence in my ability to control corrosion, etc.
Thanks again. P.S. your Kombi trip to Croatia was a great pleasure to read. |
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c21darrel
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mcdonaldneal
Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2013
Posts: 2652
Location: Gullane, Scotland
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| Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2015 11:28 pm Post subject: |
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| VWKC wrote: |
Thanks so much for sharing your work in such detail. I am getting ready (sooner than later) to do many of the same tasks. Your threads have significantly added to my confidence in my ability to control corrosion, etc.
Thanks again. P.S. your Kombi trip to Croatia was a great pleasure to read. |
Thanks for the kind comments!
It's really thanks to the Samba that I have felt able to tackle some of these things myself. There's never a problem that someone else hasn't had! Then you can see how they've tackled it, and then it's, 'well, I could do that!'
I'd never so much as changed the oil until a couple of years ago, so sometimes I find it hard to believe that I'm looking at the engine sitting on a table in the garage. I'm making some mistakes as I go, and the quality of the work I do as a beginner can leave a little to be desired, but I say to myself, 'at least it's prolonging the useful life of the car or the Kombi!'
Good luck with your project, and post it on up!
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1978 marino yellow Bay Dormobile camper
1969 signal orange Karmann Ghia convertible
1976 martini olive Bay Dormobile camper
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mcdonaldneal
Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2013
Posts: 2652
Location: Gullane, Scotland
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| Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2015 11:41 pm Post subject: |
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| c21darrel wrote: |
| Your pics of the trunk area remind me how much the location of the brake reservoir is wack. |
Oh, how true!
I nearly cried when I saw the mess under the trunk liner, and I couldn't understand why there was so much rust when the rest of the car was so solid. Looking closer though, the paint is bubbling and soft in parts, and I think what has happened is that the brake fluid reservoir had a split in it, and one way or another, brake fluid has leaked down, under the liner and the tar/ hardboard and the vapour (?) has softened and bubbled the paint. Maybe then the leaking trunk seal has let it get wet and rust? Ah well, c'est la vie!
The good news is that it quite localised to the central part. So... I am going to disconnect all the tubes and wires (what fun, labels ready!) to expose it properly, give it a good clean, prep the rusty areas and, depending how much is rust vs solid paint, I have half a tin of clear POR 15 left, so that might go on.
The fuel tank will have to come out though, pics will follow!
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1978 marino yellow Bay Dormobile camper
1969 signal orange Karmann Ghia convertible
1976 martini olive Bay Dormobile camper
Stop dead photo links! Post photos to The Samba Gallery! |
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Bleyseng
Samba Member
Joined: July 03, 2005
Posts: 4752
Location: Seattle
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| Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2015 7:52 am Post subject: |
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I have the same problem in my 70 and I think it's mostly from PO spilling brake fluid when refilling.
_________________
70 Ghia Black convert-9/69 build date-stock w/133k 1600 SP-barn find now with a rebuilt tranny and engine
77 Westy 2.0L w/Ljet, Camper Special engine-95hp and with LSD!(sold)
76 Porsche 914 2.1L L20c, 120hp Djet (sold)
87 Syncro Westy Titan Red 2.1L 2 knob 100k miles |
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NOVA Airhead
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Joined: July 20, 2005
Posts: 5221
Location: Richmond, VA
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| Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2015 8:35 am Post subject: |
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| mcdonaldneal wrote: |
Managed to get three coats on the inner rear valance. I know it looks a bit scruffy, but it's a bit cramped, and it's really just to protect an area that is pretty difficult to see!
Also had a look down into the inner fender with my phone camera. This is the left side, where the decklid release cable runs through. A fair bit of surface rust, but very dry. Even the pile of pine needles looks dusty dry! I'll hold off deciding what to do here.
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For those hard to reach inner fender areas I would clean out the debris and then hit those areas with rust converter and inhibitor which is available as a spray. It should do the job since it appears to be surface rust.
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