1958 A T2 coupe restoration

foamcar · Posted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 5:05 pm Post subject:

Jan
That bracket should be flat. A friend reinforced his after repairing to help prevent future deformation. I copied that on mine.

Phil

jan_t4 · Posted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 4:00 pm Post subject:

Some more progress, rear floor pan edge prepared and lower tunnel edge cleaned.

Some rust came through to inner metal. Opened, cleaned and welded back.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Testfittet floor and temporarily placed seat rails and pedal board structure.

Looks so beautiful and is good motivation Wink

This comes next: rear seat area, gearbox cover and parcel tray. Completely cratered surface, underside looks mostly nice.

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My 356A T2 Resto.Blog: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=579964

jan_t4 · Posted: Fri Feb 14, 2014 1:03 pm Post subject:

Lots of pics for lots of work - the rear seat panels. This area is not for beginners, because there are lots of curvatures and no straight edge.

The surface if cratered and lots of tiny holes - probably water stood on.

This should go in there.

Opened the lower mainframe to slip metal over and rustprevented inside.

The rust on the inside seems to be unproblematic with some rust converter and some "Hohlraumschutzwachs" at the end.

Epoxy primed upside, because later on it's impossible to get there.

Test fitting and fixing ...

... and welded, front side with spot welding gun.

Other side ...

... same procedure ...

... until both are in and grinded.

Welded from underside and grind down the weld spots.

Fit repair panel for opened main frame edge and ...

close the gap.

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My 356A T2 Resto.Blog: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=579964

jan_t4 · Posted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 9:35 am Post subject:

Parceltray area and mainframe lower structure repaired.

Inner main frame structure doesn't look so bad.

Parcel tray bracket have to be replaced.

Visible areas are grinded. Below the parcel tray not grinded down completely to make it stiffer.

Welding areas temporarily protected with rust primer. Some areas have to be hammered and dollied a little bit, but the complete rear horizontal structure is repaired and free of rust and holes - one big step

This area comes next - inner rear fender panels on both sides.

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My 356A T2 Resto.Blog: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=579964

roy mawbey · Posted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 10:58 am Post subject:

Jan,

Nice work, well done!!

Roy
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Roy
RHD356A super75 106954

doublecabmel · Samba Member Joined: February 24, 2010 Posts: 131

Hi Jan,

Excellent work. Any chance you would like to move to Southern California and help me with my speedster? Also don't forget to check out:

www.356registry.com

And the toy and lit show is coming up in March

jan_t4 · Posted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 3:49 pm Post subject:

Hi doublecabmel

Southern California sounds like sun and perfect weather, I have to think about it Wink

your nickname looks like you have a double cab? Like my last finished full rotisserie restoration project (67 T1 CrewCab). Nice driver and perfect to drive with during 356 restoration.

We did an Alpen-trip through the European mountains and drove all interesting top passes.

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My 356A T2 Resto.Blog: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=579964

jan_t4 · Posted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 4:23 pm Post subject:

Next step is done - inner rear fender on driver side:

Picture before - was thinking where to cut partially. At the end I replaced the whole panel from top edge to bottom edge and it was good to do - as you can see the rust between the panels.

This should go in (wrong side, but same type of panel)

Started cutting a big hole inside. Lower edge rotton and have to be removed now.

Looked "okay" from outside. Finally opened beaded top area and lots of rust came out.

Problematic area ...

... trimmed ...

... welded ...

... Finished!

Cleaned lower edge and b-pillar (will be probably replaced later on). Clamped outer longitudinal to see where it will end.

Test fitting and finally welding. Put in some additional reinforcement bars to keep correct proportion.

Panel in correct size and prepared for welding

upside down to fill the welded gap with rust primer (and thinner to make it more liquid for the small gap)

The result is a totally filled gap with primer.

Opened top of main frame because of surface rust holes and to mediablast and finally sealing inside

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My 356A T2 Resto.Blog: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=579964

doublecabmel · Samba Member Joined: February 24, 2010 Posts: 131

Hi Jan,

I actually own 2 1967 DCs. I can't seem to get enough of them. Here is my restored one. It looks a lot like yours

http://img3.sellersourcebook.com/users/110585/67_dbl_cab_lt_side.jpg

roy mawbey · Posted: Fri Feb 21, 2014 4:25 am Post subject:

Jan,
Nice work on the inner rear fender. Your thread is really great to follow you make it look so easy Confused

Also both of those VW's look super. Don't seem to have seen many of this type in the UK? although of course the normal buses are so popular here with many restored to perfection.

Roy
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Roy
RHD356A super75 106954

foamcar · Posted: Fri Feb 21, 2014 7:01 am Post subject:

Great work Jan. Here is a hood:

http://porsche356registry.org/classifieds/2-356-pa...-hood.html

This guy sells a lot of stuff on the 356 Registry classifieds. His prices are on the high side. Let me know if you want to contact him.

Phil

jan_t4 · Posted: Sat Feb 22, 2014 10:37 am Post subject:

Hi foamcar, thanks for the information about the hood. I just bought an A-hood 2 weeks ago from the classified section here at thesamba.com. The seller Paul did a great job and built a box to ship the hood to germany. I'm curious about the arrival and how the hood fits to the body.

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My 356A T2 Resto.Blog: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=579964

jan_t4 · Posted: Mon Feb 24, 2014 2:32 pm Post subject:

Got my bolts and nuts back from galvanic. These bolts are brand new produced and zinc coated - not original, but better rust prevention. These nuts and bolts are M8 SW14 8.8 as original on 356 and not like "modern" M8 SW13.

Jan

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My 356A T2 Resto.Blog: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=579964

roy mawbey · Posted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 4:25 am Post subject:

Jan,

Those bolts look very nice and the ATF sizing will finish the job very well. I notice you also have the various sizes in the box. Good decision to purchase those.

Roy
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Roy
RHD356A super75 106954

Jacks · Posted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 9:21 am Post subject:

Where does someone find new 14mm ATF hardware?
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Jack Staggs
Actual name

jan_t4 · Posted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 10:25 am Post subject:

Hi Roy and Jack - and all others

These nuts and bolts SW14/14 ATF are necessary for a nice restoration - in my opinion. Better than a mixture of old rusty bolts and worn out nuts in SW13 and SW14.

A company here in Germany just produced a limited number of nuts and bolts. So they are brand new, "Made in Germany" and labeled "GRAEKA 8 G", a german company since 1872. The bolts are "black" and I brought them to my galvanic company to zinc coat them.

Now I have 200 nuts and 140 bolts (different lenght from 15 to 30mm). So enough for most applications. You should keep some longer bolts and restore them. They are not cheap, but better than SW13/ATF13 nuts and bolts.

If someone is interested, I can sell and ship them worldwide.

Jan
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My 356A T2 Resto.Blog: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=579964

Suboval · Samba Member Joined: September 15, 2003 Posts: 794

http://ww2vw.com/catalog/hexagonal-bolts-and-nuts-m8/
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It all works on paper.

There's two things we learn from history:
1.) History repeats itself.
2.) We don't learn from history.

jan_t4 · Posted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 12:24 am Post subject:

Hi, this is a different distributor, but I think the nuts and bolts are the same, because same pictures, same boxes, same sizes and description and same prices (as I told not really cheap). But none of these distributors is selling zinc platet bolts, this has to be done by yourself - like I did with mine.

Jan
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My 356A T2 Resto.Blog: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=579964

cooperati · Samba Member Joined: November 04, 2006 Posts: 17

Hi Jan

Very nice restoration.

The red oxide primer looks good. What brand - Wurth?

jan_t4 · Posted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 4:22 pm Post subject:

Same procedure on codriver side.

This big hole has to be filled

Old looks better that it really was - tiny pinholes all over. New piece - has to be trimmed.

Testfitting

Panel ready for welding.

Repaired edge like on other side and finally ...

welded ...

... and primed the gap, upside down.

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My 356A T2 Resto.Blog: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=579964


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1958 A T2 coupe restoration
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