Blankity blankin' fuel pump.

Banjoben · Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 4:23 pm Post subject: Blankity blankin' fuel pump.

I got to drive the fastback to work the other day, but noticed a heavy smell of gas when I pulled in. Further investigation showed a steady drip from the 3-port bosch fuel pump while running. it's coming from right around the electrical connector. Brand new pump..... Jeesh. The guy I got it from installed it trying to get it running, but never had it working ( I found other issues to fix it) so, I'm the first to actually use it.
I tried putting the old pump back in. it does not want to work, AND it's seeping from the same spot!!!!
I think it will get replaced by some universal type. Any recommendations for a reasonably priced pump? I'm assuming if I put in a 2 port pump I can just run the return line straight to the tank and eliminate the "T" that goes to the old pump without any issues.
_________________
1974 VW Westfailia Campmobile Deluxe (Clementine)
1970 VW Type 3 fastback. (Abby Normal )
2008 Passat Turbo Wagon Lux
ASE Certified Advanced Level Master Tec / Toyota Master Diagnostic Tec.
Head Boffin of the legendary(does it really exist?) Stray Cat Vintage and Custom Garage. Home of "The Bomber Squadron"

blankmange · Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 4:28 pm Post subject: Re: Blankity blankin' fuel pump.

Banjoben · Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 5:41 pm Post subject:

Saw that thread. The 90 Ranger comes up as using an airtex E2002 in-tank pump. The one A saw spec'd out/ told to use here on Samba is an Airtex E2000 (But that thread said that was from the 90 Ranger). I can get that locally for about $90. Looks like the E2000 is the one I want. Not sure what it fits.
Maybe I'll be able to get it this weekend.
Napa showed a pump available for a Type 3.. for a mere $625!!!!!!!
_________________
1974 VW Westfailia Campmobile Deluxe (Clementine)
1970 VW Type 3 fastback. (Abby Normal )
2008 Passat Turbo Wagon Lux
ASE Certified Advanced Level Master Tec / Toyota Master Diagnostic Tec.
Head Boffin of the legendary(does it really exist?) Stray Cat Vintage and Custom Garage. Home of "The Bomber Squadron"

avesondm · Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 6:52 pm Post subject:

The Airtex E2000 works fine. I'm running one and yes, just remove the tee and go straight back in to the tank.
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Banjoben · Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 7:01 pm Post subject:

Excellent. Did it effect your fuel pressure in the system? Just wondering if I'll have to readjust the regulator. It doesn't seem like it would.
_________________
1974 VW Westfailia Campmobile Deluxe (Clementine)
1970 VW Type 3 fastback. (Abby Normal )
2008 Passat Turbo Wagon Lux
ASE Certified Advanced Level Master Tec / Toyota Master Diagnostic Tec.
Head Boffin of the legendary(does it really exist?) Stray Cat Vintage and Custom Garage. Home of "The Bomber Squadron"

Bobnotch · Posted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 5:43 am Post subject:

Root_Werks · Posted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 11:37 am Post subject:

3 port pumps are a waste of time on D-Jet cars unless you are bent on being original.

Get a later inline pump from any L-Jet VW from the 70's or 80's. Update your fuel line routing to the later system. It's simpler and the pumps are far more stable than the 3 port pumps.
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avesondm · Posted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 12:43 pm Post subject:

Banjoben · Posted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 7:48 pm Post subject:

Yup. I'll plan on it. I hope to stop in to my FLAPS tomorrow and pick up the pump. Get that put in, check the fuel pressure, and it'll be back on the road. Next "issue" is getting warm air to come out the defrosters. We got a dusting of snow today.
_________________
1974 VW Westfailia Campmobile Deluxe (Clementine)
1970 VW Type 3 fastback. (Abby Normal )
2008 Passat Turbo Wagon Lux
ASE Certified Advanced Level Master Tec / Toyota Master Diagnostic Tec.
Head Boffin of the legendary(does it really exist?) Stray Cat Vintage and Custom Garage. Home of "The Bomber Squadron"

supaninja · Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 6:58 am Post subject:

I don't think anyone has made a DIY for installing a ranger pump, maybe you could snap a few pic's and put a simple one together, I'm sure Everett would add it to the reference thread. This topic does come up once in a while.
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FergU · Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 8:35 am Post subject:

sharkskinman · Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 4:12 pm Post subject:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

1991 ford ranger

its the fuel pump on the rail under the driver seat
i got mine out of a pic-n-pull for $20
i had it on my 71 411 (altho didnt prime ...it just continuously ran)

make sure you take the foam around it aswell
_________________
74 Mexi Swamp Thing. 70 square volksrod (Swamp Rat)..65 C10

Banjoben · Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 4:54 pm Post subject:

Stopped in at my FLAPS today after work and got the pump. $90 plus tax! yikes. and that was at the "auto tec"rate. it listed for $145.
Anyhow, It's supposed to get kinda warm tomorrow, so I'm planning on installing it then. I'll do my best to take some pics and post the "play-by-play". It looks pretty straight forward. Biggest thing for me will be scrounging a fuel pressure gauge to check that when I'm done.
_________________
1974 VW Westfailia Campmobile Deluxe (Clementine)
1970 VW Type 3 fastback. (Abby Normal )
2008 Passat Turbo Wagon Lux
ASE Certified Advanced Level Master Tec / Toyota Master Diagnostic Tec.
Head Boffin of the legendary(does it really exist?) Stray Cat Vintage and Custom Garage. Home of "The Bomber Squadron"

Bobnotch · Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 6:15 pm Post subject:

Just a little heads up. Re-use the old pump bracket (it fits the new pump), and move it and the new pump to the center of the front beam. This will give you nice lazy bends for the pump and fuel filter combination. I only say that, because the new pump is longer than the compact arrangement of the stock pump. You might need some longer hoses though, so keep this in mind. A couple of us who are using this pump are doing the same thing (moving it to the center of the beam). By doing this, you avoid kinks in the supply hose, that can burn up the new pump. If you're using the Airtex pump, the output end is the end with the wire connectors. The left connector is + while the right is - (looking head on at the outlet). I only mention this, because the installation instructions that come with these pumps don't tell you this, and you can actually run the pump backwards. Shocked

By the way, I got both of my pumps from Autozone for 92 bucks out the door. Had I shopped around, I could have gotten them cheaper (someone sent me a link for them at 55 each a couple of years ago Shocked

), but I needed the pump now, not in 4 days. Wink

I hope this helps.

Edit, I just checked the link I was given, and their price went up (no surprise).
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sharkskinman · Posted: Sat Nov 19, 2011 9:43 am Post subject:

http://www.shepherdautoparts.com/autoparts/fuel_pu...PDk8OR.htm
$20

http://www.carparts.com/details/Ford/Ranger/Replac...5021671818
44$

or go to a salvage yard or call one and just tell them you need one off the drivers frame rail
like 20$ or so
_________________
74 Mexi Swamp Thing. 70 square volksrod (Swamp Rat)..65 C10

Banjoben · Posted: Sat Nov 19, 2011 12:09 pm Post subject:

Be careful guys. the 90-91 ranger pump is not the right one. That is an in-tank style. It will not work on the VW. the inlet connection is for the press-on sock filter, not a hose ,and it does not come with the noise insulating foam rubber around the housing
The one we need is for 88 and older Rangers. it's, like you said, the one on the frame rail.
89-97 Rangers take the E2002. 85-88 take the E2000.
http://www.shepherdautoparts.com/fuel_pump/ford/ranger/1988.html
looks like I still could have ordered it for around $20... Grrrrrrrr.
_________________
1974 VW Westfailia Campmobile Deluxe (Clementine)
1970 VW Type 3 fastback. (Abby Normal )
2008 Passat Turbo Wagon Lux
ASE Certified Advanced Level Master Tec / Toyota Master Diagnostic Tec.
Head Boffin of the legendary(does it really exist?) Stray Cat Vintage and Custom Garage. Home of "The Bomber Squadron"

sharkskinman · Posted: Sat Nov 19, 2011 3:54 pm Post subject:

90-91 for ranger have 2 pumps
the one in the tank is more like a prime pump
I Took mine off of the rail 1991 ford ranger
_________________
74 Mexi Swamp Thing. 70 square volksrod (Swamp Rat)..65 C10

Banjoben · Posted: Sat Nov 19, 2011 5:30 pm Post subject:

OK I stand corrected about the 91 Ranger. But I will say if you look up the 85-88 there's no chance you'll get the wrong one. hehehehehe.
Drove Abby over to 5-Guys on a "bomber run" Got some greasy burgers, and came home.
the only major glitch was the battery shifted on a hard right turn, and pulled the ignition wire to the starter loose. I had to reach under, and pop it back on to start it up to get home. There currently is no battery hold down as it's all rotted away. So rectifying that issue just moved wayyyy up the list.
The new pump seems to work good. My pics came out terrible, so they probably won't work well for a tec article.
Tomorrow I gotta find a fuel pressure gauge. I noticed a bit of chugging under acceleration that was not there before. I'm bettin' it's a touch low.
So I'll keep workin' out the bugs and pretty soon we'll be doing fine.
_________________
1974 VW Westfailia Campmobile Deluxe (Clementine)
1970 VW Type 3 fastback. (Abby Normal )
2008 Passat Turbo Wagon Lux
ASE Certified Advanced Level Master Tec / Toyota Master Diagnostic Tec.
Head Boffin of the legendary(does it really exist?) Stray Cat Vintage and Custom Garage. Home of "The Bomber Squadron"

Mike Fisher · Posted: Sun Nov 20, 2011 10:35 am Post subject:

I bought a cheap 0-100lb water pressure gauge from Home Depot to test mine.
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Banjoben · Posted: Sun Nov 20, 2011 3:04 pm Post subject:

Well, I spent the morning tweaking. I set the valves (All to .006) then tweaked the fuel. It was at about 28. I set it to just on the bottom of the line of 30. I sprung for a fuel pressure gauge set. It's one of those tools I always meant to get, but never did. Now I have one.
The afternoon was spent bombing around to see how it was. Not bad. All seems in order, but there is a "rapping" in the engine at mid RPM range after the engine warms up. Sounds like a noisy valve, but I just adjusted them. It's not very noticeable at idle, and does not get any worse under acceleration. it's also not very noticeable at highway speeds. I'm hoping it's just there. Oil light is not on or flashing. oil is full and fresh. 10W30 Timing had been set to 0 at 650 rpm with the vacuum line off. the engine seems to be running wonderfully, so I'm not overly concerned. but its in the back of my head.
The only thing I can think of is that I set the valves cold. is the .006 setting for a warm engine? the manual I have didn't say.
_________________
1974 VW Westfailia Campmobile Deluxe (Clementine)
1970 VW Type 3 fastback. (Abby Normal )
2008 Passat Turbo Wagon Lux
ASE Certified Advanced Level Master Tec / Toyota Master Diagnostic Tec.
Head Boffin of the legendary(does it really exist?) Stray Cat Vintage and Custom Garage. Home of "The Bomber Squadron"


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