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slow36hp
scott wimberley


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 12:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

seperate the body and pan fix both and put them back together it will be easier than trying to piece meal it all assembled
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 12:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

slow36hp wrote:
seperate the body and pan fix both and put them back together it will be easier than trying to piece meal it all assembled


Agreed. My '51 has about the same rust. You could do the repairs with the body on, but it would be significantly more difficult, and you may not get things right. Pull the body and restore it and the chassis separately. Also, I'd highly recommend having the whole body media blasted as it is the only way to truly know what you are starting with.
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flyertim
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 12:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i plan on doing a body off resto...so separating the body from the pan is in the works. that's where i'm worried...if i weld in the rear body supports, how will i know if they are located correctly? the same goes for everything else. i figured i would be pulling the body from the chassis several times...checking and re-checking...

after things are fixed, the body will get blasted. i have already discussed this with the guy who does my powdercoating as he has a big booth for sandblasting. i'm sure more things will pop up.

i figure i will have to tack weld pieces in, put everything back together, check to see if all is well, then take it apart and finish welding. after the main structural rusted out parts are dealt with, i can separate the body, get it blasted and properly fix the rest.
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slow36hp
scott wimberley


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 2:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

not too hard to measure a finnished pan and match the body especially for someone who can work to the .001" Very Happy
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AlteWagen
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

flyertim wrote:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Looks like the same shop did the repair on my old rusty 57 I got for free!!

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

flyertim wrote:
i plan on doing a body off resto...so separating the body from the pan is in the works. that's where i'm worried...if i weld in the rear body supports, how will i know if they are located correctly? the same goes for everything else. i figured i would be pulling the body from the chassis several times...checking and re-checking...

after things are fixed, the body will get blasted. i have already discussed this with the guy who does my powdercoating as he has a big booth for sandblasting. i'm sure more things will pop up.

i figure i will have to tack weld pieces in, put everything back together, check to see if all is well, then take it apart and finish welding. after the main structural rusted out parts are dealt with, i can separate the body, get it blasted and properly fix the rest.


Sounds like good plan. You will need to "test fit" the body to the chassis as you weld on those mounting points. I will be doing the same thing to my '51.
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flyertim
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 5:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Sounds like good plan. You will need to "test fit" the body to the chassis as you weld on those mounting points. I will be doing the same thing to my '51.


thanks johnshenry...so far this seems the best way to go. i was curious if anybody has been through the same deal and can give me "well, if i had to do it all over again, i would have..." advice.

Quote:
Looks like the same shop did the repair on my old rusty 57 I got for free!!


i agree! in its past someone decided to get rid of the running boards and use sheet metal screws for aluminum patches. i can't wait to see what the ohio rust fairies left for me under there!

Quote:
not too hard to measure a finnished pan and match the body especially for someone who can work to the .001"


lol....if i had the finished pan to start with. i don't know anybody near me who has a bug they'll let me touch with a pair of digital calipers... Sad

i have enough sheet metal parts to start tackling the major structural parts of the bug. right now i'm thinking about a fixture that's adjustable so i can easily get to everything with my tig torch. i would like to raise the body up and down as well as rotate it for the later bodywork. although, for a small car, it doesn't seem necessary to have a rotisserie...just nice to have. i would need to remove and replace the body onto the chassis several times...so that drives the design right now.
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dv8
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2010 1:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is how I am addressing a similar Ohio-fied beetle....


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I have plenty of extra bugs to measure for reference - without those measurements this wouldn't be possible for me.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 4:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

well...i've been tackling a few things lately. i have enough replacement sheet metal to start welding. i'm just waiting for the weather to break as the bug has been sitting outside under a cover with 2 feet of snow on it. i will have to roll it into the shop, then roll it outside as there isn't enough room to just keep it inside all the time.

i sandblasted the gas tank. i purchased por-15's gas tank sealing kit which took me a whole weekend to do. there was a lot of varnish inside along with a little bit of rust. the kit worked great! after that, i sprayed the tank with zinc chromate i had lying around the shop which is used for aircraft parts i make. looks like gerson made it, right?

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i then cut a hole in a piece of plywood to hold the tank while i begin bodywork.

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here's some pictures after several hours of filling and sanding...

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then i primed it with ppg's k36 primer...

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i foresee more sanding in the near future...probably this weekend.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 4:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i also found a set of 1957 ohio license plates on ebay a couple months ago. i liked the plates because there's an "x" on there. i had an "x" on my vintage plates for my 1969 camaro many moons ago. i still have the plates, but not the car. (long pause as i think of the good times i had in that car...)

i took "before" pictures of the plates, but i accidentally erased them from my hard drive...sorry, folks.
i took the plates to my local paint jobber where we custom mixed the burgundy background color. after a couple hours of bs'ing and tinting, the color matched perfectly.
first, i sandblasted the plates with 220 grit aluminum oxide. then i sprayed them with zinc chromate. i let this cure for a couple of days before i scuffed them up with a burgundy scotch-brite pad. i used an iwata lph-400 gun to lay down the color.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


when i saw the plates in the sunlight, the color looked a lot like L51 bordeaux red...at least to me...

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i let this cure for a few days, then used one-shot lettering enamel ("lettering white") with a 1/8" and 1/4" squirrel hair lettering brush to paint the lettering. the paint wasn't even dry before i mocked it up to the front of the car!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 5:51 am    Post subject: Barn Fresh 57 Reply with quote

WOW!!! You do very nice work!!! Those plates are a work of art.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 8:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree that looks great!
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stale air
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ya, those plates turned out awesome. Great job! Cool
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 7:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Will OH let you register it on those plates? I learned the hard way not to restore YOM (year of manufacture) plates in MA until AFTER I registered them.....
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flyertim
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 4:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

johnshenry wrote:
Will OH let you register it on those plates? I learned the hard way not to restore YOM (year of manufacture) plates in MA until AFTER I registered them.....


after reading about all the fun you have with massachusetts dmv, i have always felt sorry for you Wink

so far, all we have to do in ohio is register the car with historical plates. then you can roll with period/YOM plates as long as you keep the historical plates with the car...i.e. in the trunk. when you get historical plates, you sign a piece of paper stating you understand that you are only driving the car in parades, to and from car shows, etc... you are not supposed to be running errands and commuting to and from work. so, it seems ohio is a little relaxed on this. that is until some dumbass ruins it for us.

i was running historical plates on my '69 camaro when i saw YOM plates on another muscle car at a local drive-in. i asked how he did this and he explained to me what i just mentioned above. i was pulled over (only!!!) once in that car. all the cop asked for was license, registration and proof of insurance. i wasn't ticketed for anything so it seemed everything was kosher. perhaps if i was going 150 mph or running from a bank heist it would be a different story. also, my record was pretty clean...
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 1:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Man I wish I could find an oval, or even a pre 67 for that matter around me that's like this oval. All I ever manage to find is late model stuff.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 5:51 pm    Post subject: Barn Fresh 57 Reply with quote

Well where were you a couple month ago?? I had two Ovals for sale.
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Oh, and I am 39 years old.....I am supposed to know better......ha!!!
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 10:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

flyertim wrote:
johnshenry wrote:
Will OH let you register it on those plates? I learned the hard way not to restore YOM (year of manufacture) plates in MA until AFTER I registered them.....


after reading about all the fun you have with massachusetts dmv, i have always felt sorry for you Wink

so far, all we have to do in ohio is register the car with historical plates. then you can roll with period/YOM plates as long as you keep the historical plates with the car...i.e. in the trunk. when you get historical plates, you sign a piece of paper stating you understand that you are only driving the car in parades, to and from car shows, etc... you are not supposed to be running errands and commuting to and from work. so, it seems ohio is a little relaxed on this. that is until some dumbass ruins it for us.

i was running historical plates on my '69 camaro when i saw YOM plates on another muscle car at a local drive-in. i asked how he did this and he explained to me what i just mentioned above. i was pulled over (only!!!) once in that car. all the cop asked for was license, registration and proof of insurance. i wasn't ticketed for anything so it seemed everything was kosher. perhaps if i was going 150 mph or running from a bank heist it would be a different story. also, my record was pretty clean...


Here's some fun I went through recently for plates on the '51 I am restoring. Not all that bad really , and YOM, FOUR NUMBER plates. Really cool...

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=395456&highlight=registration
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 18, 2010 9:26 am    Post subject: Barn Fresh 57 Reply with quote

Hey there, how is the project comming?
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2276 in progress
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 6:47 am    Post subject: gas tank restoration Reply with quote

life has been getting in the way, but i managed to work on the gas tank here and there. it's finally finished!

the first two pictures show the paint applied to the bottom half of the tank. a speck of dust and a bug managed to land in the wet paint which was wet-sanded and buffed out. wet-sanding also got rid of the orange peel. here's the freshly painted tank...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


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the next two pictures show a close-up of the color matching. i have the original arm rest support for the passenger door (in the photos, this was placed next to the gas tank for comparison).

thanks to the experts here on the samba, the color should be L29 grey-blue for both the tank and the arm rest support. traces of the grey were found on the bottom half of my tank before i started restoration.

i took the arm rest support to my local paint jobber for a match. we couldn't find L29...which wasn't a big deal as i have an actual paint sample.

we used R-M's UNO line of paint. it's a great single-stage solid color paint system. i looked through the color chip samples to find a close match and starting point. the label on my can of paint has "CMS 1552A" and a "stock number 222212" printed on it. i'm not sure if either of these numbers is the color of the grey sample i chose. here's the formula printed on the label:

SC01...44.80
SC20...84.10
SC10...154.90
SC90...292.00
SC25...511.70

[edit: we found L29 for UNO:
SC01...44.70 (base/binder)
SC62...50.30 (organic yellow)
SC20...67.00 (lamp black)
SC90...190.50 (white)
SC25...343.00 (carbon black)
SM09...504.90 (flattening agent)]

we dabbed a bit of paint on my support and the stock color was a little dark as i recall (this was back in december). we kept adding white to the mixture to lighten it. after a few tries, it looked pretty good. the better part of the morning was spent mixing the color. we let the test samples dry a bit so there wouldn't be any surprises later on.

i know people want a formula for L29. unfortunately, this is the best help i can give.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


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after the bottom was painted and cured, i flipped the tank over in my fixture and painted the top half. i let this cure for a week then proceeded to wet-sand first with 1500-grit sandpaper, then 2000-grit.

my buffer crapped out on me, so another weekend was wasted as i ordered a new milwaukee 11-amp buffer (great buffer btw!). first i used a wool pad with wizards' turbo cut rubbing compound. then i switched to a foam pad and wizards' final cut rubbing compound to get rid of the swirl marks. add a couple coats of wax, and we're good to go! the final result is probably a tad bit too shiny over stock... Wink and my friends think i'm crazy/stupid for spending so much time on a gas tank....

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


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you can probably see the new fuel petcock screwed into the bottom along with the restored gas cap.

there was a dent in the cap, so i tore it apart and gently hammered it out. then i polished the cap with aluminum polish and reassembled it.

before making a box to store the tank and protect it from any harm, i placed the tank in it's home and snapped a couple of pictures.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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my '57 rebuild:
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Last edited by flyertim on Wed Apr 28, 2010 2:18 am; edited 1 time in total
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