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slow36hp scott wimberley
Joined: August 09, 2004 Posts: 3113 Location: mukilteo washington
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johnshenry Samba Member
Joined: September 21, 2001 Posts: 9364 Location: Northwood, NH USA
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Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 12:37 pm Post subject: |
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slow36hp wrote: |
seperate the body and pan fix both and put them back together it will be easier than trying to piece meal it all assembled |
Agreed. My '51 has about the same rust. You could do the repairs with the body on, but it would be significantly more difficult, and you may not get things right. Pull the body and restore it and the chassis separately. Also, I'd highly recommend having the whole body media blasted as it is the only way to truly know what you are starting with. _________________ John Henry
'57 Deluxe
'56 Single Cab |
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flyertim Samba Member
Joined: September 17, 2009 Posts: 554 Location: medina, ohio
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Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 12:54 pm Post subject: |
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i plan on doing a body off resto...so separating the body from the pan is in the works. that's where i'm worried...if i weld in the rear body supports, how will i know if they are located correctly? the same goes for everything else. i figured i would be pulling the body from the chassis several times...checking and re-checking...
after things are fixed, the body will get blasted. i have already discussed this with the guy who does my powdercoating as he has a big booth for sandblasting. i'm sure more things will pop up.
i figure i will have to tack weld pieces in, put everything back together, check to see if all is well, then take it apart and finish welding. after the main structural rusted out parts are dealt with, i can separate the body, get it blasted and properly fix the rest. _________________ "Broadsword calling Dannyboy"
my '57 rebuild:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=369883 |
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slow36hp scott wimberley
Joined: August 09, 2004 Posts: 3113 Location: mukilteo washington
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AlteWagen Troll
Joined: February 23, 2007 Posts: 8504 Location: PNW
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Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 5:20 pm Post subject: |
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Looks like the same shop did the repair on my old rusty 57 I got for free!!
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johnshenry Samba Member
Joined: September 21, 2001 Posts: 9364 Location: Northwood, NH USA
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Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 7:23 pm Post subject: |
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flyertim wrote: |
i plan on doing a body off resto...so separating the body from the pan is in the works. that's where i'm worried...if i weld in the rear body supports, how will i know if they are located correctly? the same goes for everything else. i figured i would be pulling the body from the chassis several times...checking and re-checking...
after things are fixed, the body will get blasted. i have already discussed this with the guy who does my powdercoating as he has a big booth for sandblasting. i'm sure more things will pop up.
i figure i will have to tack weld pieces in, put everything back together, check to see if all is well, then take it apart and finish welding. after the main structural rusted out parts are dealt with, i can separate the body, get it blasted and properly fix the rest. |
Sounds like good plan. You will need to "test fit" the body to the chassis as you weld on those mounting points. I will be doing the same thing to my '51. _________________ John Henry
'57 Deluxe
'56 Single Cab |
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flyertim Samba Member
Joined: September 17, 2009 Posts: 554 Location: medina, ohio
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Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 5:09 am Post subject: |
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Quote: |
Sounds like good plan. You will need to "test fit" the body to the chassis as you weld on those mounting points. I will be doing the same thing to my '51. |
thanks johnshenry...so far this seems the best way to go. i was curious if anybody has been through the same deal and can give me "well, if i had to do it all over again, i would have..." advice.
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Looks like the same shop did the repair on my old rusty 57 I got for free!! |
i agree! in its past someone decided to get rid of the running boards and use sheet metal screws for aluminum patches. i can't wait to see what the ohio rust fairies left for me under there!
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not too hard to measure a finnished pan and match the body especially for someone who can work to the .001" |
lol....if i had the finished pan to start with. i don't know anybody near me who has a bug they'll let me touch with a pair of digital calipers...
i have enough sheet metal parts to start tackling the major structural parts of the bug. right now i'm thinking about a fixture that's adjustable so i can easily get to everything with my tig torch. i would like to raise the body up and down as well as rotate it for the later bodywork. although, for a small car, it doesn't seem necessary to have a rotisserie...just nice to have. i would need to remove and replace the body onto the chassis several times...so that drives the design right now. _________________ "Broadsword calling Dannyboy"
my '57 rebuild:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=369883 |
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dv8 Samba Member
Joined: March 17, 2004 Posts: 35 Location: Bucyrus Ohio
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Posted: Fri Feb 12, 2010 1:29 pm Post subject: |
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Here is how I am addressing a similar Ohio-fied beetle....
I have plenty of extra bugs to measure for reference - without those measurements this wouldn't be possible for me. _________________ desired speed > disposable income |
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flyertim Samba Member
Joined: September 17, 2009 Posts: 554 Location: medina, ohio
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Posted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 4:20 am Post subject: |
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well...i've been tackling a few things lately. i have enough replacement sheet metal to start welding. i'm just waiting for the weather to break as the bug has been sitting outside under a cover with 2 feet of snow on it. i will have to roll it into the shop, then roll it outside as there isn't enough room to just keep it inside all the time.
i sandblasted the gas tank. i purchased por-15's gas tank sealing kit which took me a whole weekend to do. there was a lot of varnish inside along with a little bit of rust. the kit worked great! after that, i sprayed the tank with zinc chromate i had lying around the shop which is used for aircraft parts i make. looks like gerson made it, right?
i then cut a hole in a piece of plywood to hold the tank while i begin bodywork.
here's some pictures after several hours of filling and sanding...
then i primed it with ppg's k36 primer...
i foresee more sanding in the near future...probably this weekend. _________________ "Broadsword calling Dannyboy"
my '57 rebuild:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=369883 |
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flyertim Samba Member
Joined: September 17, 2009 Posts: 554 Location: medina, ohio
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Posted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 4:47 am Post subject: |
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i also found a set of 1957 ohio license plates on ebay a couple months ago. i liked the plates because there's an "x" on there. i had an "x" on my vintage plates for my 1969 camaro many moons ago. i still have the plates, but not the car. (long pause as i think of the good times i had in that car...)
i took "before" pictures of the plates, but i accidentally erased them from my hard drive...sorry, folks.
i took the plates to my local paint jobber where we custom mixed the burgundy background color. after a couple hours of bs'ing and tinting, the color matched perfectly.
first, i sandblasted the plates with 220 grit aluminum oxide. then i sprayed them with zinc chromate. i let this cure for a couple of days before i scuffed them up with a burgundy scotch-brite pad. i used an iwata lph-400 gun to lay down the color.
when i saw the plates in the sunlight, the color looked a lot like L51 bordeaux red...at least to me...
i let this cure for a few days, then used one-shot lettering enamel ("lettering white") with a 1/8" and 1/4" squirrel hair lettering brush to paint the lettering. the paint wasn't even dry before i mocked it up to the front of the car!
_________________ "Broadsword calling Dannyboy"
my '57 rebuild:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=369883 |
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seanboy69 Samba Member
Joined: October 22, 2008 Posts: 1107 Location: Templeton PA
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Posted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 5:51 am Post subject: Barn Fresh 57 |
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WOW!!! You do very nice work!!! Those plates are a work of art. _________________ In a sea of american muscle there is alittle bug hiding in the corner...
Oh, and I am 39 years old.....I am supposed to know better......ha!!!
1956 oval ragtop
1962 baha
2276 in progress |
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Schwing Samba Member
Joined: May 10, 2009 Posts: 2506 Location: Centreville, MD
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Posted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 8:04 am Post subject: |
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I agree that looks great! |
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stale air Samba Member
Joined: August 23, 2007 Posts: 5155 Location: Senoia Ga, formally NorCal
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Posted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 5:27 pm Post subject: |
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Ya, those plates turned out awesome. Great job! _________________ WANTED: Henry Veale Santa Rosa plate frames
WANTED: Brittsan Motors Fresno plate frames
WANTED: Any Georgia plate frames
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johnshenry Samba Member
Joined: September 21, 2001 Posts: 9364 Location: Northwood, NH USA
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Posted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 7:04 pm Post subject: |
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Will OH let you register it on those plates? I learned the hard way not to restore YOM (year of manufacture) plates in MA until AFTER I registered them..... _________________ John Henry
'57 Deluxe
'56 Single Cab |
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flyertim Samba Member
Joined: September 17, 2009 Posts: 554 Location: medina, ohio
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Posted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 4:11 am Post subject: |
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johnshenry wrote: |
Will OH let you register it on those plates? I learned the hard way not to restore YOM (year of manufacture) plates in MA until AFTER I registered them..... |
after reading about all the fun you have with massachusetts dmv, i have always felt sorry for you
so far, all we have to do in ohio is register the car with historical plates. then you can roll with period/YOM plates as long as you keep the historical plates with the car...i.e. in the trunk. when you get historical plates, you sign a piece of paper stating you understand that you are only driving the car in parades, to and from car shows, etc... you are not supposed to be running errands and commuting to and from work. so, it seems ohio is a little relaxed on this. that is until some dumbass ruins it for us.
i was running historical plates on my '69 camaro when i saw YOM plates on another muscle car at a local drive-in. i asked how he did this and he explained to me what i just mentioned above. i was pulled over (only!!!) once in that car. all the cop asked for was license, registration and proof of insurance. i wasn't ticketed for anything so it seemed everything was kosher. perhaps if i was going 150 mph or running from a bank heist it would be a different story. also, my record was pretty clean... _________________ "Broadsword calling Dannyboy"
my '57 rebuild:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=369883 |
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Herbie3Rivers Samba Member
Joined: May 07, 2001 Posts: 1271 Location: Pittsburgh, PA
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Posted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 1:57 pm Post subject: |
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Man I wish I could find an oval, or even a pre 67 for that matter around me that's like this oval. All I ever manage to find is late model stuff. _________________ Yeah I like Herbie AND New Beetles. Got a problem with it? Tough.
2010 New Beetle Final Edition
2009 Ford Mustang Bullitt
1999 New Beetle GLS
1983 Mercedes 300D
1974 Karmann Ghia
1972 Super Beetle
1970 Beetle Sunroof
1959 Original Herbie #6
1956 Oval
Three Rvers VW Club
Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix
Visit Herbie the Love Bug at LoveBugFans.com |
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seanboy69 Samba Member
Joined: October 22, 2008 Posts: 1107 Location: Templeton PA
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Posted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 5:51 pm Post subject: Barn Fresh 57 |
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Well where were you a couple month ago?? I had two Ovals for sale. _________________ In a sea of american muscle there is alittle bug hiding in the corner...
Oh, and I am 39 years old.....I am supposed to know better......ha!!!
1956 oval ragtop
1962 baha
2276 in progress |
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johnshenry Samba Member
Joined: September 21, 2001 Posts: 9364 Location: Northwood, NH USA
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Posted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 10:12 pm Post subject: |
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flyertim wrote: |
johnshenry wrote: |
Will OH let you register it on those plates? I learned the hard way not to restore YOM (year of manufacture) plates in MA until AFTER I registered them..... |
after reading about all the fun you have with massachusetts dmv, i have always felt sorry for you
so far, all we have to do in ohio is register the car with historical plates. then you can roll with period/YOM plates as long as you keep the historical plates with the car...i.e. in the trunk. when you get historical plates, you sign a piece of paper stating you understand that you are only driving the car in parades, to and from car shows, etc... you are not supposed to be running errands and commuting to and from work. so, it seems ohio is a little relaxed on this. that is until some dumbass ruins it for us.
i was running historical plates on my '69 camaro when i saw YOM plates on another muscle car at a local drive-in. i asked how he did this and he explained to me what i just mentioned above. i was pulled over (only!!!) once in that car. all the cop asked for was license, registration and proof of insurance. i wasn't ticketed for anything so it seemed everything was kosher. perhaps if i was going 150 mph or running from a bank heist it would be a different story. also, my record was pretty clean... |
Here's some fun I went through recently for plates on the '51 I am restoring. Not all that bad really , and YOM, FOUR NUMBER plates. Really cool...
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=395456&highlight=registration _________________ John Henry
'57 Deluxe
'56 Single Cab |
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seanboy69 Samba Member
Joined: October 22, 2008 Posts: 1107 Location: Templeton PA
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Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2010 9:26 am Post subject: Barn Fresh 57 |
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Hey there, how is the project comming? _________________ In a sea of american muscle there is alittle bug hiding in the corner...
Oh, and I am 39 years old.....I am supposed to know better......ha!!!
1956 oval ragtop
1962 baha
2276 in progress |
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flyertim Samba Member
Joined: September 17, 2009 Posts: 554 Location: medina, ohio
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Posted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 6:47 am Post subject: gas tank restoration |
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life has been getting in the way, but i managed to work on the gas tank here and there. it's finally finished!
the first two pictures show the paint applied to the bottom half of the tank. a speck of dust and a bug managed to land in the wet paint which was wet-sanded and buffed out. wet-sanding also got rid of the orange peel. here's the freshly painted tank...
the next two pictures show a close-up of the color matching. i have the original arm rest support for the passenger door (in the photos, this was placed next to the gas tank for comparison).
thanks to the experts here on the samba, the color should be L29 grey-blue for both the tank and the arm rest support. traces of the grey were found on the bottom half of my tank before i started restoration.
i took the arm rest support to my local paint jobber for a match. we couldn't find L29...which wasn't a big deal as i have an actual paint sample.
we used R-M's UNO line of paint. it's a great single-stage solid color paint system. i looked through the color chip samples to find a close match and starting point. the label on my can of paint has "CMS 1552A" and a "stock number 222212" printed on it. i'm not sure if either of these numbers is the color of the grey sample i chose. here's the formula printed on the label:
SC01...44.80
SC20...84.10
SC10...154.90
SC90...292.00
SC25...511.70
[edit: we found L29 for UNO:
SC01...44.70 (base/binder)
SC62...50.30 (organic yellow)
SC20...67.00 (lamp black)
SC90...190.50 (white)
SC25...343.00 (carbon black)
SM09...504.90 (flattening agent)]
we dabbed a bit of paint on my support and the stock color was a little dark as i recall (this was back in december). we kept adding white to the mixture to lighten it. after a few tries, it looked pretty good. the better part of the morning was spent mixing the color. we let the test samples dry a bit so there wouldn't be any surprises later on.
i know people want a formula for L29. unfortunately, this is the best help i can give.
after the bottom was painted and cured, i flipped the tank over in my fixture and painted the top half. i let this cure for a week then proceeded to wet-sand first with 1500-grit sandpaper, then 2000-grit.
my buffer crapped out on me, so another weekend was wasted as i ordered a new milwaukee 11-amp buffer (great buffer btw!). first i used a wool pad with wizards' turbo cut rubbing compound. then i switched to a foam pad and wizards' final cut rubbing compound to get rid of the swirl marks. add a couple coats of wax, and we're good to go! the final result is probably a tad bit too shiny over stock... and my friends think i'm crazy/stupid for spending so much time on a gas tank....
you can probably see the new fuel petcock screwed into the bottom along with the restored gas cap.
there was a dent in the cap, so i tore it apart and gently hammered it out. then i polished the cap with aluminum polish and reassembled it.
before making a box to store the tank and protect it from any harm, i placed the tank in it's home and snapped a couple of pictures.
_________________ "Broadsword calling Dannyboy"
my '57 rebuild:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=369883
Last edited by flyertim on Wed Apr 28, 2010 2:18 am; edited 1 time in total |
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