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chrisflstf Samba Member
Joined: February 10, 2004 Posts: 3446 Location: San Diego
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Posted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 8:49 am Post subject: |
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Before using the sleeve retainer - CLEAN all surfaces really good. It wont adhere if grease is in there. Acetone works good. Let it cure for 24hrs |
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kenshapiro2002 Samba Member
Joined: April 26, 2013 Posts: 1826 Location: Bawlmer Hon
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Posted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 11:22 am Post subject: |
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Just "glued" the bottom bushing in (Permatex sleeve retainer). Needs 24 hrs. to fully cure so I'll be reaming tomorrow.
If anybody needs to use my drift tool to remove or install their bushings, you can borrow mine...won't be suing it again any time soon. $5 to ship it USPS Priority Mail. |
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kenshapiro2002 Samba Member
Joined: April 26, 2013 Posts: 1826 Location: Bawlmer Hon
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Posted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 9:23 am Post subject: |
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Reaming went easily. Almost back together...a few more hours and I'll drive her. Bet it'll be nice since she has new tie rods , new damper and new center pin all of which were shot to hell:
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zozo Samba Member
Joined: October 15, 2005 Posts: 5217 Location: South of Ol' San Antonio
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Posted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 10:41 am Post subject: |
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Congrats Ken. If yours is improved as much as mine was, you'll be nearly overwhelmed by that magnitude of the change. I'm still stunned every time I drive mine. |
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kenshapiro2002 Samba Member
Joined: April 26, 2013 Posts: 1826 Location: Bawlmer Hon
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Posted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 10:45 am Post subject: |
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zozo wrote: |
Congrats Ken. If yours is improved as much as mine was, you'll be nearly overwhelmed by that magnitude of the change. I'm still stunned every time I drive mine. |
Getting psyched...heading out to the garage right now to finish up. |
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kenshapiro2002 Samba Member
Joined: April 26, 2013 Posts: 1826 Location: Bawlmer Hon
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Posted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 12:43 pm Post subject: |
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Oh yeah...all buttoned up, and test driven. Like night and day.
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mandraks Samba Member
Joined: November 28, 2004 Posts: 7050 Location: Lawrenceville, Ga
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Posted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 2:22 pm Post subject: |
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nice work. wer gut schmiert, der gut faehrt as they say _________________ regards
Uli
----------------------------------------
'53 3-Fold Oval, L35 Metallic Blue, looking for a narrow hatch panel |
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cru62 Samba Member
Joined: December 31, 2002 Posts: 4117 Location: Margaritaville.....24/7
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Posted: Wed Jul 03, 2013 4:54 am Post subject: |
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Ken-Would you mind posting the brand of the parts you installed and where you bought them? Also, please update us at some point down the line regarding how everything is holding up and what, if anything, you would have done differently.
The pic of the underside of your bus makes me smile. It looks tidy and well-loved. Thanks for sharing. _________________ "My biggest worry is that when I die, my wife will sell all my parts for what I told her I paid for them"-Jon
Jokes about German sausage are the wurst.
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery! |
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kenshapiro2002 Samba Member
Joined: April 26, 2013 Posts: 1826 Location: Bawlmer Hon
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Posted: Thu Jul 18, 2013 9:14 am Post subject: |
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cru62 wrote: |
Ken-Would you mind posting the brand of the parts you installed and where you bought them? Also, please update us at some point down the line regarding how everything is holding up and what, if anything, you would have done differently.
The pic of the underside of your bus makes me smile. It looks tidy and well-loved. Thanks for sharing. |
It looks tidy and well loved because I'm anal retentive and clean like a nut every time I go to work on any part of her. I bought every part from WW. Not just for the suspension either. Just set the toe in and the steering wheel centered itself right up...didn't have to adjust the drag link.
Everything is great and there's isn't a thing I would have done differently...all went well...all turned out well. |
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slow1964 Samba Member
Joined: October 07, 2004 Posts: 36
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Posted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 5:12 pm Post subject: |
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Great thread, I am having a hard time locating the reamer locally, has anyone tried with any sort of success the second method mentioned in the Muir book. It says you can bring the bushings to a machine shop and have them matched to the pin prior to installation.
thanks. |
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zozo Samba Member
Joined: October 15, 2005 Posts: 5217 Location: South of Ol' San Antonio
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Posted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 5:21 pm Post subject: |
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slow1964 wrote: |
Great thread, I am having a hard time locating the reamer locally, has anyone tried with any sort of success the second method mentioned in the Muir book. It says you can bring the bushings to a machine shop and have them matched to the pin prior to installation.
thanks. |
As I understand it, once the bushings are "forced" in, they compress to the point that the pin either won't fit, or will fit too tightly. |
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vdubdan Samba Member
Joined: June 16, 2004 Posts: 151
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kenshapiro2002 Samba Member
Joined: April 26, 2013 Posts: 1826 Location: Bawlmer Hon
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Posted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 5:47 pm Post subject: |
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If anybody wants to borrow my drift, just lemme know. I rented the reamer from WW for $25. Unless you're planning on doing multiple center pins in your lifetime... |
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zozo Samba Member
Joined: October 15, 2005 Posts: 5217 Location: South of Ol' San Antonio
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Posted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 6:14 pm Post subject: |
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I bought the same set from the same vendor and couldn't be happier, plus I'm now the local resource for center pin replacement tools. |
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earlywesty Samba Member
Joined: May 03, 2004 Posts: 2358 Location: In the woods, Ontario
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Posted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 7:35 pm Post subject: |
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zozo wrote: |
I bought the same set from the same vendor and couldn't be happier, plus I'm now the local resource for center pin replacement tools. |
Same here. Mine has done 3 so far and none have been my buses. |
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JohnnyBfromPeoria Samba Member
Joined: February 26, 2012 Posts: 52 Location: Phoenix, AZ
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Posted: Fri Dec 06, 2013 10:55 am Post subject: |
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I also just completed the pin replacement job on my neighbor's '67 bus. I was also investigating the shift linkage slop, so I had the front section of the linkage out of the vehicle, which proved to be handy for clearance, since I didn't have a need to modify a clamp to compress the pin assembly; it fit with no problems as it was.
I also purchased all the components from Wolfsburg West, along with the reamer rental ($200 deposit, $175 refundable upon return). The pin kit was something like $45, as I recall, and for a '67, you use every piece. A heat gun is handy to warm up the large sealing washer, as even when I had it sitting in hot water to soften it, it would cool down very quickly when I took it out to dry and then grease it.
To remove and reinstall the bushings, I used a large socket over the top of the frame, straddling the pin's hole, with a 9" carriage bolt with a 1/2" shank that fit the socket's drive running through the hole, and a 13/16" Craftsman 1/2" drive socket on the bottom, followed by a washer and nut. Then you simply tighten the nut and it squeezes together, forcing the bushings up and into the opening under the large socket. As the nut travels up the carriage bolt, add more sockets under the one pushing the bushings so you can still reach the nut.
I put the new bushings in the freezer before I installed them. It's a technique I use with bearing races on other vehicles and the very small amount of shrinkage it gives makes things just a touch easier to put together.
I don't have any flat feeler gauges, so I used my caliper to determine that a penny is just at the minimum measurement for the protrusion of the top bushing and a quarter is just right, so I used those to make that determination.
The reamer makes it sound like you have a very angry chicken squawking under the car every time you turn it! Be aware that the WW rental has a very large shank, and unless you own a gigantic tap wrench, you're going to need to use a 12-point socket to turn it.
Steering feels much better now.
John B. _________________ 1995 Mitsu Montero SR
2012 Camaro LS M6 IPF S/C
1987 Dodge Raider Turbo Transplant
1986 Mitsu Montero 2.4l/4 spd swap |
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electronictofu Samba Member
Joined: May 13, 2009 Posts: 945 Location: Sacramento
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Posted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 11:16 pm Post subject: |
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My application looks a little different than in my manual and some of the ones posted. Im hoping to get this verified before I torque things up this weekend.
From what I've gathered from here, my manual and WW Nate. I do it in this order:
Lower washer. Then on the top, large white rubber washer, spring washer, dust cap, large metal washer, small rubber ring/ swing arm. Done.
As far as spacing the large metal washer (Bottom right in the photo) sitting on the top would be good, and I think that's what Nate meant when he told me. But the inner diameter of this washer is quite a bit larger than the center pin, I want to make sure it won't wobble or budge around and funk things up? Here's a couple photos to reference.
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conrad1468 Samba Member
Joined: December 20, 2003 Posts: 1019 Location: Jeannette, PA 15644
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Posted: Fri Feb 07, 2014 10:43 am Post subject: |
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Hazetguy,
Can you provide a seller that sells these bolts? Plus what size bolts and threads? You specify the DIN spec but not size. Do you sell the correct bolt?
Thank you!
hazetguy wrote: |
for a reamer, i would try other sources, like Metric and Multistandard before ordering from Baum tools. Baum is usually overpriced. however, for some reason sometimes they seem to be the only people that have certain things.
As i said in my initial post, the kit pictured (Febi/Bilstein) contains a poor bolt, and i don't use them. The non threaded portion of the bolt is too short, and the teeth of the bolt can gouge the pin, especially if the pivot arm is loose on the pin or the bolt is not torqued properly or comes loose, allowing movement of the arm and pin.
here's a pic of damage.
I've been using modified correct DIN 960 bolts that have the correct length of non threaded shaft. the parts book specifies a 60mm length for 1966 and newer, and this length sticks out past the end of the pivot arm. the length of the earlier bolt is 42mm, and does not stick out nearly as far.
here are a bunch of comparison pics to show different bolts and how they fit in the pivot arm:
Correct late style bolt installed. Notice overall length and the amount it sticks out of the pivot arm.
Early style bolt installed. Notice how the bolt is nearly flush where it comes out of the pivot arm.
Left: Modified, modern DIN 960 10G bolt. This is correct length as specified by the latest updated Split Bus parts book. Length is 50mm.
2nd from left: Bolt that comes with Febi/Bilstein kit. This is correct length as specified by the latest updated Split Bus parts book. Length is 50mm.
3rd from left: Modified, modern DIN 960 10G bolt. This is the length of early style pinch bolts. Length is 42mm.
Right: Original early style Rasche 8G bolt. Length is 42mm.
Original Rasche 8G early style center pin pinch bolt. Notice length of non threaded shaft.
Original Rasche 8G early style center pin pinch bolt. Original (bottom) compared to a modern, modified 10G DIN 960 bolt (top).
Original Rasche 8G early style center pin pinch bolt as the end sticks out of the pivot arm.
Original Rasche 8G early style center pin pinch bolt showing non-threaded shaft where bolt passes through pivot arm.
Modified, modern 10G DIN 960 bolt showing non-threaded shaft where bolt passes through pivot arm. Early style.
Modified, modern 10G DIN 960 bolt as the end sticks out of the pivot arm. Early style.
Modified, modern 10G DIN 960 bolt as the end sticks out of the pivot arm. Late style.
Modified, modern 10G DIN 960 bolt. Showing non-threaded shaft where bolt passes through pivot arm. Late style.
The bolt that comes with Febi/Bilstein center pin kit as the end sticks out of the pivot arm.
The bolt that comes with Febi/Bilstein center pin kit.
Hardly any non threaded shaft where bolts passes through the slot of the pin.
The teeth of the bolt could eat in to the pin, causing premature wear.
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johny__utah Samba Member
Joined: September 02, 2008 Posts: 426 Location: Arizona/California
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Posted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 10:01 am Post subject: |
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Great write up!! Ive replaced a couple and used your post as reference, thanks! You guys know where i can source the kit minus the pin and bushings?? mine is in perfect shape (low milage) beam. Disassembled for inspection and paint. only want/need the washer kit. |
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Stocknazi Samba Member
Joined: June 18, 2004 Posts: 5150
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Posted: Thu May 15, 2014 7:11 am Post subject: |
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I am replacing the center pin on my April 57 beam and have a couple quick questions before I proceed.
My beam had shims and the earlier spring washer under the swing arm and no cap.
Do the instructions for lining up the grease groove on page 1 apply to my beam? I know the top bushing should sit flush with the top, my concern is with the groove being in the proper place.
Also, when reaming the new bushings, is it best to ream them dry, or should I use some oil on the reamer? I also thought about using some grease on the reamer to catch some of the shavings.
Is there any downsides from using a socket to turn the reamer? I do not have a large driver at the moment.
Comments? _________________ WANTED:
58 Westfalia cabinet knobs (3 needed), roof rack, and (7) privy tent poles (silver painted).
"When the people are afraid of the government, that's tyranny. But when the government is afraid of the people, that's liberty."
"Resistance to tyrants is obedience to God."
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