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Haynes manual has failed me.
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Arby*s
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 3:16 pm    Post subject: Haynes manual has failed me. Reply with quote

Long time viewer first time post. I usually search and search until Ifind what I need but this time I have had no luck.
I have a 1971 Super Beetle, with a 1600dp engine and stock trans. Running a single 34PICT carb, and a empi GT2 style exhaust. On to the problem: Car will not start. Engine rotates but will not crank. I was driving for about 20 min. and took a slight right turn and engine died.
I have tested:
Fuel, always keep an extra gallon in the car filled her up.
Fule pump, pulled the fuel line off the intake of the carb and attempted to start the car pump is squirting fuel.
Carb, took off the air cleaner pulled throttle and watched fuel shoot down into the intake manifold, butterfly working correctly.
Ignition, ignition coil clicks when the key is turned to the on position and has 12 volts on the correct terminal.
Spark. pulled wire from the coil to the dizzy attlmpted to turn and held wire near engine block visable sparks. also checked all spark plug wires the same way all working.

I haven't checked the plugs yet for the simple fact the it would be real yeird if all 4 plugs went bad at the same time.

Thank you for any help, and for all the help the forum has provided in the past.
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mnussbau
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 5:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Something get sucked into the air filter or carb? Is your distributor clamp tight (if loose and it rotated while driving the timing could be so far off it won't run)?
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Arby*s
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 6:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes the dizzy is tight. I will check to see if anything is blocking the intake.
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gaoval
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 8:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you checked your valves. I have had the nuts come loose on the rocker shaft and caused the valve adjustment to be so out of wack that it would not run.
If you have fuel getting into the cylinders, compression in each cylinder, fire in each cylinder, it has to run.
You are not getting one of these.


Last edited by gaoval on Mon Nov 12, 2007 8:04 am; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 6:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mnussbau could be right, do you have an air filter installed or its just opened? some uses the velocity stock and that might cause a problem in terms of debris that may come in the intake manifold
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Arby*s
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 7:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do have a K&N fair cleaner. But in the off chance something did get lodged in there, would there be a way to check, other than taking the whole intake manifold assembly apart? I am afraid to use a wire brush or other cleaning device in fear of pushing the possible blockage further down.
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Arby*s
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 4:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh yea should of mentioned, I am running a PerTronics Flamethrower II coil and electronic points.
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gaoval
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 5:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Go back to points and condensor and see if this fixes your problem. If so then you now you have a bad elec. ign. Be sure to use the right coil with the points.
I am sure you already know this though.
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Arby*s
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 7:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since I am getting spark can i assume its not the dizzy or is it something i still need to check?
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 9:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, firstly, when you say “engine rotates but won’t crank” do you mean you can turn the motor over by hand but it won’t crank via the key, or cranks w/ the key but won’t start?
If A, you have an electrical problem a.k.a. short/ground issue, somewhere. Have you checked for power @ the starter? You’ll need someone to turn the key for this.
The fact that you were driving along fine and the engine SUDDENLY dies after a turn sez loose wire somewhere, to me.
If B, I’m stumped. You say you’re getting spark, (Is it weak or strong?) fuel, and I’d guess there is air in the air where you are. Laughing

In any case, I’d be looking at wiring, starting in the engine compartment and going from there.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 10:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

rust in your carb clogging the tinny tiny jets.
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Arby*s
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry I should have been more clear, cranks w/ the key but won’t start.
spark looks blue to white in color.

Cool Thats it, I was susposed to be making a dune buggy not a space buggy. Bring it back to earth were we have an O-zone then it will work. Razz
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gaoval
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 6:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am located in Atlanta as well. Where about are you exact. Maybe we could meet up and I could help.
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Arby*s
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 1:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right now the car is located in a friends apartment complex near the 85/316 interchange.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 3:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

check ground strap from dist body to breakerplate....plate that the points are mounted to are gronded by a braided wire no ground no spk....
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check your fuses too. I had the same problem, with through all the regular stuff, then found the fuse on the ignition side was blown. Replaced it and no more problems!
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 5:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do what gaoval says and go back to points and condensor in your distributor, the pertronix units have been known to burn out, from time to time. Sometimes leaving the key on without the engine running can do this. This is the first thing I'd check, if everything else is known to be good.

Gap the points at .016, which is about the width of a matchbook cover, or a thumbnail. Connect the condensor wire to the negative side of the coil, replace cap and rotor. Try to start it. If it still doesnt start, at least you know you've eliminated a possible problem and can move to the next thing to check.

-check battery power
-check grounds
-starter and starter bushing, fairly easy to pull the starter and have it
tested, just 2 bolts and some electrical connections. Lable the connections, so you can re-connect correctly later.
-Carb getting fuel? Fuel pump pumping? Fuel filter clogged, and or air filter? Those K & N's need to be cleaned every so often, especially since ATL's going through a drought. Very dusty up there now, I hear from friends in Cumming, GA. If dirt has passed through the filter, then you might have dirt clogged jets.
On the off-chance that your fuel pump is faulty, check your oil for fuel smell.
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Arby*s
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

All the fuses check out.
I pulled the carb off yesterday and looked down the intake manifold. I see no blockage. I am assuming that if there were a blockage on one side only the other side would be trying to fire. Since I was driving when it died I would find it wierd if the problem is isolated to one cylinder. Pulled one spark plug and it checks out so I didn't pull the rest.

So, to recap, I have spark, I have fuel, the enging rotates, but will not start. What could it be?
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also think it was a wire since it happened the way it did, but, I also see a flaw in your testing that messed me up with my '71 SB as well. Pumping gas into a jar is not a sufficient test. My pump passed this test and I had a heck of a time starting and keeping it running. Finally out of desperation I switched pumps with my '73 and all was fixed. Runs great now! You need to pressure test it. May have a small hole in the diaphragm so it doesn't have enough oomph to get it in the bowl. Spray some quick start down your carb and you will soon see if you have spark.
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porterville
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 8:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jamesdagg wrote:
I also think it was a wire since it happened the way it did, but, I also see a flaw in your testing that messed me up with my '71 SB as well. Pumping gas into a jar is not a sufficient test. My pump passed this test and I had a heck of a time starting and keeping it running. Finally out of desperation I switched pumps with my '73 and all was fixed. Runs great now! You need to pressure test it. May have a small hole in the diaphragm so it doesn't have enough oomph to get it in the bowl. Spray some quick start down your carb and you will soon see if you have spark.



he said he pumped the throttle and seen gas spraying down the carb so its getting fuel. i would stick to running through the electrical. check your fuses to see if you have any blown fuses.
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