Author |
Message |
vwracerdave Samba Member
Joined: November 11, 2004 Posts: 15313 Location: Deep in the 405
|
Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2023 11:46 am Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
|
|
Use whatever oil you want. I guarantee you get to keep all the broken pieces.
Diesel oils SHOULD NOT be used in gasoline engines. _________________ 2017 Street Comp Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble, OK
2010 Sportsman ET Champion - Mid-America Dragway - Arkansas City, KS
1997 Sportsman ET Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble ,OK |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Cubey Samba Member
Joined: May 13, 2009 Posts: 253
|
Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2023 11:56 am Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
|
|
vwracerdave wrote: |
Use whatever oil you want. I guarantee you get to keep all the broken pieces.
Diesel oils SHOULD NOT be used in gasoline engines. |
Plenty of folks on here use it. It's only bad for gasoline cars with catalytic converters, because the large amount of zinc can clog it. Unless you have a 75+ (CA only?) engine with one, then it's fine.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=187716&start=0
"VW of Mexico recommends 15W40 oil in their air cooled engines & it was factory fill in the new air cooled beetles from 1992 until the end of production in 2003."
Amsoil agrees: https://blog.amsoil.com/can-i-use-diesel-oil-in-my-gas-engine/ |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50356
|
Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2023 3:05 pm Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
|
|
vwracerdave wrote: |
I tried telling you this 5 years ago. Diesel oils should not be used in gasoline engines. |
5 years ago most readily available Diesel oils also carried an "S" rating. Some such as Mobile 1 Turbo Diesel Oil and Delo 400XSP still do. How about quoting a source that backs up you odd belief that "S" rated oils should not be used in a gasoline engine. Even better quote a sources that says that a "C" rated oil without an "S" rating like Rotella T6 will harm an air cooled street rig.
Actually according to the Shell website Rotella T6 still carries an "SN" rating, though the donuts on the containers do not (at least the last time I checked) , so you will have to find another oil to comment on. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Cubey Samba Member
Joined: May 13, 2009 Posts: 253
|
Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2023 4:42 pm Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
|
|
Wildthings wrote: |
How about quoting a source that backs up you odd belief that "S" rated oils should not be used in a gasoline engine |
Especially considering how a handful of people say that 30 weight non-detergent is the way to go in these engines. That definitely lacks an "S" rating.
Even Walmart's SuperTech 15w40 is SN. So as Valvoline Premium Blue. Looks like almost all brands of 15w40 are. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50356
|
Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2023 7:13 pm Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
|
|
Cubey wrote: |
Wildthings wrote: |
How about quoting a source that backs up you odd belief that "S" rated oils should not be used in a gasoline engine |
Especially considering how a handful of people say that 30 weight non-detergent is the way to go in these engines. That definitely lacks an "S" rating.
Even Walmart's SuperTech 15w40 is SN. So as Valvoline Premium Blue. Looks like almost all brands of 15w40 are. |
The SN rating does not reduce the ZDDP in oils with a second number of 40 or higher. Thus the reason these oils meet the SN specification almost without exception. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
vwracerdave Samba Member
Joined: November 11, 2004 Posts: 15313 Location: Deep in the 405
|
Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2023 8:52 pm Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
|
|
All you talk about is your alphabet soup letter ratings. There is a lot more to oil than just the starburst letter or ZDDP number. Diesel oils DO NOT have the proper detergents to clean the residual pollutions gasoline produce. Diesel oils DO NOT have the correct anti-foaming agents needed for the whipping and aeration from the higher RPM a gasoline engine turns. There is something else about acids and sulphurs that I don't understand well enough to explain them.
Use whatever shit you want in your engine. I don't care how it blows up. _________________ 2017 Street Comp Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble, OK
2010 Sportsman ET Champion - Mid-America Dragway - Arkansas City, KS
1997 Sportsman ET Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble ,OK |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Cubey Samba Member
Joined: May 13, 2009 Posts: 253
|
Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2023 10:01 pm Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
|
|
vwracerdave wrote: |
Diesel oils DO NOT have the proper detergents to clean the residual pollutions gasoline produce. Diesel oils DO NOT have the correct anti-foaming agents needed for the whipping and aeration from the higher RPM a gasoline engine turns. |
According to this, diesel oils have MORE additives like detergents and aeration control than gasoline engine oils do:
"An important element in meeting or exceeding the standard requirements of both oils is the additive package. It represents 15 to 25 percent of a gallon of oil, with the balance being high-quality base oil. This is higher than the additive levels in passenger-car motor oils designed for gasoline engines."
https://rotella.shell.com/en_us/info-hub/how-oil-additives-work.html |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50356
|
Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2023 2:22 am Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
|
|
vwracerdave wrote: |
All you talk about is your alphabet soup letter ratings. There is a lot more to oil than just the starburst letter or ZDDP number. Diesel oils DO NOT have the proper detergents to clean the residual pollutions gasoline produce. Diesel oils DO NOT have the correct anti-foaming agents needed for the whipping and aeration from the higher RPM a gasoline engine turns. There is something else about acids and sulphurs that I don't understand well enough to explain them.
Use whatever shit you want in your engine. I don't care how it blows up. |
Just show us a link to an authoritative source backing up your claims. Been waiting years at this point and you refuse to do so. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
vamram Samba Member
Joined: March 08, 2012 Posts: 7313 Location: NOVA
|
Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2023 7:04 am Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
|
|
Not an authority here by any means. I've used Rotella T6 in my "stock" 1600dp on multiple 2,500+ mile road trips. I've done this in both very hot Florida summers and cooler winters. I keep highway speeds at 65-70. No foaming whatsoever. _________________ Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!
'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
scottyrocks Samba Member
Joined: August 19, 2016 Posts: 2667 Location: Long Island, NY
|
Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2023 12:39 pm Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
|
|
After almost 8 billion posts, I think it's safe to say that any modern automotive oil will be safe for acVWs as long as it's changed on time, and meets the pressure and ambient temperature requirements of these cars.
Neeeeeext! haha _________________ “If you care for a thing long enough, it takes on a life of its own, doesn't it? Mending old things, preserving them, looking after them – on some level there's no rational grounds for it.”
– D. Tartt, 'The Goldfinch' |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Bruce Samba Member
Joined: May 16, 2003 Posts: 17294 Location: Left coast, Canada
|
Posted: Sun Feb 12, 2023 4:27 am Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
|
|
Cubey wrote: |
"VW of Mexico recommends 15W40 oil in their air cooled engines & it was factory fill in the new air cooled beetles from 1992 until the end of production in 2003." |
Soon after I bought a Mexican Beetle, I realized that 15W-40 was the cause of the #1 complaint every Mexican Beetle owner has. The lifters bleed down overnight, then won't pump up the next day. By using that tar, it can't get into the tight gap of the lifter to pump it up. I switched to a 0W-xx oil and it instantly cured the problem.
VW redesigned the lifter 3 times trying to fix this problem, but never did. The root cause was that they recommended the wrong oil. _________________
overheard at the portland Swap Meet... wrote: |
..... a steering wheel made from a mastadon tusk..... |
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Klinger74 Samba Member
Joined: February 26, 2017 Posts: 44 Location: Swartz Creek, MI
|
Posted: Wed Feb 15, 2023 2:18 pm Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
|
|
Just had a thought - maybe it's already been suggested?
Has anyone thought of using lawn mower engine oil? Tractor supply carries the CountyLine brand (So does Do-it-Best and other online sources) that's $30/gal and made specifically for lawn mower engines. It at least comes in 30 wt and 10w-30, maybe couple other weights. Considering it's made for air-cooled, high(er) RPM, flat tappet engines (even new ones, I think), I'm thinking the application should be similar enough to an A/C VW. I don't have ZDDP info, but it says it meets Kohler's requirements, and Kohler oil has a ZDDP of 1200, from what I can find.
Just throwing it out there. If noone can think of a significant detriment to using it, I might switch over to it for our VWs. _________________ '74 Standard Beetle, mostly Stock 1600 DP, Manual trans |
|
Back to top |
|
|
NASkeet Samba Member
Joined: April 29, 2006 Posts: 2960 Location: South Benfleet, Essex, UK
|
Posted: Mon Apr 24, 2023 1:25 pm Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
|
|
Sometime in circa 1985 or 1986, I bought a job-lot of about 20 litres, of heavily-discounted (circa £4•50 or £5•00 instead of circa £12•50 per 4-litre can - approximately 1 US gallon) Mobil 1 SAE 5W/50, API SF or SG fully-synthetic lubricating oil from the local Mobil franchised petrol filling station of Key Markets supermarket, on Canvey Island, Essex, England.
When using conventional mineral oil (SAE 30 monograde or SAE 20/50, 15/50 or 10/40 etc multigrade) in the AD-Series, twin-port, VW 1600 Type 1 Beetle style air-cooled engine, of my family's 1973 VW 1600 Type 2 Westfalia Continental motor-caravan, the oil turned from light-straw colour to virtually black with dark-grey glutinous sludge, after 3,000 miles of use, when the next oil-change was due. The oil-consumption rate was circa 1 litre per 1,000 miles and one often noticed the acrid smell of oxidised oil, when opening the engine-compartment hatch.
However, when Mobil 1, SAE 5W/50, API SF or SG fully-synthetic oil was used, it changed in colour from ultra-light straw to light-straw after 3,000 miles, with NO sludge formation whatsoever. The oil-consumption rate was reduced to circa 1 litre per 3,000 to 4,000 miles and there was no acrid smell of oxidised oil, when opening the engine-compartment hatch.
The 5W viscosity cold-starting characteristic, also made starting much easier in cold weather, but I suspect it led to oil being diverted through the oil-cooler prematurely, owing to the relatively low viscosity at low temperatures.
On cold English winter days when the ambient air temperature was close to ZERO degrees Celcius, the oil-pressure with Mobil 1, SAE 5W/50 oil at start-up from cold, was typically around 4•0 Bar, but reduced quite rapidly to 3•0 Bar after a few minutes; remaining at a stable 3•0 Bar under normal driving speeds, on urban roads, cross-country rural back roads & trunk roads and motorways. At idle, waiting at road junctions, the oil-pressure was stable at 1•0 Bar. All oil-pressure measurements were taken using my dashboard-mounted, 52 mm VDO Cockpit 0~5 Bar oil-pressure gauge.
Sometime during the 1990s, I came across the following leaflet pertaining to synthetic & semi-synthetic lubricating oils for petrol and diesel engines. What caught my eye was the test results for a VW Beetle 1302, Type 1 style air-cooled engine.
I sent a copy of this leaflet to Neil Birkitt (with whom I have sporadically corresponded since the early-1990s and who has published some of my material), then the editor or assistant editor, of the British magazine VW Motoring, who subsequently paid a visit to Miller's Oils and published a short review article in the magazine, of which I have a copy somewhere.
Miller's Oils Leaflet with VW Beetle 1302 test results
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/lit/millers_oils.php
_________________ Regards.
Nigel A. Skeet
Independent tutor (semi-retired) of mathematics, physics, technology & engineering for secondary, tertiary, further & higher education.
Much modified, RHD 1973 VW "1600" Type 2 Westfalia Continental campervan, with the World's only decent, cross-over-arm, SWF pantograph rear-window wiper
Onetime member, plus former Technical Editor & Editor of Transporter Talk magazine
Volkswagen Type 2 Owners' Club (Great Britain)
http://www.vwt2oc.net |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Stocknazi Samba Member
Joined: June 18, 2004 Posts: 5150
|
Posted: Fri Apr 28, 2023 8:50 am Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
|
|
scottyrocks wrote: |
Okay, so I actually finally read all 232 pages (okay, call me a glutton for punishment], and the most important information, afaic, came from this link:
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/
so that, most of all, made this thread a worthwhile (re]read.
This blog has been mentioned here a number of times, and summarized very well a few pages back by @Lingwendil.
540 RAT, the writer of the linked blog, in addition to having a bunch of credentials and practical experience, bases his writings on scientific experimentation. It also makes a lot of sense. My comments, below, are based on the blog, and his scientific testing, in particular. For further details, see the blog.
When attempting to choose a motor oil, the amount of zinc can be disregarded which can be kind of hard to believe considering the importance put on it here. Instead, look at the load carrying capability/film strength/shear resistance to breakdown psi rating (read the link) which is dependent on a motor oil's additive package, of which zinc is only a small part.
Talking about zinc or ZDDP by itself is akin to talking about any single ingredient in a complicated food recipe being more important than the whole recipe. The amount of zinc in an oil was not a determining factor in the blog rankings, as the zinc levels were high and low all through the rankings. What is most important is the particular additive package in any given motor oil, which includes zinc. This, and viscosity, are what determine the best oil for a vehicle and application.
You don't need to choose a needlessly thick oil to get more ZDDP because you don't need more ZDDP. Modern additive packages take care of the job attributed to ZDDP. There is no 'right' amount of zinc anymore.
The now decreased quantity of zinc/phosphorus has been replaced with alternate anti-wear components that are equal to, or better than zinc/phosphorus. This is borne out by the results of 540 Rat's scientific experiments on the load carrying capability/film strength/shear resistance breakdown points of over 200 oils, many of which are available today. And many oils with what so many here consider the proper amount of zinc were severely inferior to those with lesser amounts of zinc, as far as the ultimate strength of the oil film between parts when all the liquid oil has been squeezed out, iow, during cold starts when all that is on critical parts is an oil film, which is when the additive package, of which ZDDP is a small part, to varying degrees, does its thing, so to speak.
Adding zinc/ZDDP additives to motor oil is unnecessary, and often harmful. Many here have stated that doing so throws off the carefully derived (by oil engineers/chemists) additive packages in motor oils. And that is true. Some will say things like well, I have added such-and-such ZDDP additive to my oil and have had no problems. At best, the oil's anti-wear/anti-shear capabilities were good enough on their own to not be negatively affected by the addition of outside chemicals to cause harm to the engine they were put in. In RAT's tests, tested additives added to oil often dropped the effective psi rating significantly.
Rather than using a snake oil (additives), choose a quality oil from the top sections of the list, the amount of zinc be damned.
Soon after beginning to read this thread, I was all but sold on Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 10W-30 for my Beetle. But after reading the blog, I have decided against different versions of this oil, which were rated 208, 211, 213, 250, and 254 (their 30 wt break-in oil) of 264 tested. Will Brad Penn oils protect a flat tappet engine with room to spare before it fails? Probably, but there are 207 better choices out there (actually a few less, disregarding tested oil additives, and diesel oils, which are also not optimal).
And as far as diesel oils – whether they are okay for gasoline engines or not, all of them were middle-of-the-pack finishers. Why choose one, then, when there are so many better gasoline engine oils available with much higher psi ratings?
Valvoline VR1 is a favored oil here. The test data shows outstanding film strength/load carrying capability/anti wear ratings, and it has sufficient zinc to keep happy those who think that zinc is the be-all and end-all of engine protection, but it is still quite far down the list in 64th place. Still a win-win, though, for both science and the zinc-zombies.
As I don't know the age of my engine, as in whether it has had any sort of rebuild before I got the car, I made my own list of the top ten dino or blended oils on the list (all either 5W-30 or 10W-30) that are available in my area, that offer the greatest load carrying capability/film strength/shear resistance to breakdown ratings, and will choose the highest one I can find locally. All of them greatly exceed the needs of my stock engine, and most engines, in fact, and if I can purchase them locally, and at competitive prices, why not go for the best?
The top finisher of all was 5W30 Quaker State 'Full Synthetic' (abbreviated QSFS), API SP, with a measured 152,674 psi of anti-wear resistance, way above everything else. Valvoline's top finisher, not a VR1, protected to 123,470 psi. The top VR1, 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Conventional Racing Oil (silver bottle), finished in 64th place, and protected to 103,505 psi. Brad Penn? The top Brad Penn tested oil protected to 72,003 psi and finished in 208th place.
Do yourselves a favor. Look at 540 RAT's Motor Oil Engineering Test Data/Oil Test Data Blog, which is the link, above, as well as the rest of the oil related sections before choosing an oil for your car – any car. |
I have always been a die-hard user of Castrol GTX 20W-50 or Rotella T 15W-40 motor oil in all my cars, air-cooled VW's included. After reading this blog and doing a little more research I'm starting to realize that zinc and phosphorous additives are not the most important element to consider when choosing an oil for a air-cooled VW engine.
The PSI sheer test and how the oil preforms under higher heat conditions appear much more important.
REALLY disappointed with the performance of Rotella-T. I'll probably use what I have left and discontinue use.
I guess the Castol GTX 20W-50 is still a good choice, but it looks like the GTX 5W-20 and 5W-30 preformed almost equally well. Is there any benefit to using the GTX 20W-50 over say the GTX 5W-30?
The Valvoline VR1 oil preformed extremely well, but is almost twice the price. _________________ WANTED:
58 Westfalia cabinet knobs (3 needed), roof rack, and (7) privy tent poles (silver painted).
"When the people are afraid of the government, that's tyranny. But when the government is afraid of the people, that's liberty."
"Resistance to tyrants is obedience to God."
Thomas Jefferson |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50356
|
Posted: Fri Apr 28, 2023 11:09 am Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
|
|
StockNazi wrote: |
I guess the Castol GTX 20W-50 is still a good choice, but it looks like the GTX 5W-20 and 5W-30 preformed almost equally well. Is there any benefit to using the GTX 20W-50 over say the GTX 5W-30?
The Valvoline VR1 oil preformed extremely well, but is almost twice the price. |
You need sufficient oil pressure, so if you can get that with a 5w30 oil, all should be well. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
KingAir42 Samba Member
Joined: May 24, 2002 Posts: 500 Location: Bakersfield
|
Posted: Wed Dec 13, 2023 3:36 pm Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
|
|
Just wondering why up to 1970 was 30w the highest viscosity oil printed in the owners manuals for summer use, then from 1971 onwards they added 40w as the highest viscosity summer oil. Pretty sure 40w existed before 1970, was it a single/dual port difference? _________________ A stitch in time saves nine |
|
Back to top |
|
|
oprn Samba Member
Joined: November 13, 2016 Posts: 12753 Location: Western Canada
|
Posted: Sat Dec 23, 2023 9:16 am Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
|
|
KingAir42 wrote: |
Just wondering why up to 1970 was 30w the highest viscosity oil printed in the owners manuals for summer use, then from 1971 onwards they added 40w as the highest viscosity summer oil. Pretty sure 40w existed before 1970, was it a single/dual port difference? |
I highly suspect it was due to the new emission laws that required engines to run hotter to get a cleaner burn.
The vast majority of modern VW enthusiasts strip off all the emissions components (EGR) and temperature controls and run their engines cold and rich. Very few run them for any length of time either today, just a few city blocks here and there. All this would dictate the need for a lighter than stock engine oil in my view and an additive package with the ability to keep contaminants (water and acids) neutralized and in suspension should be the paramount consideration.
All the rotted out engine case sumps we see today is ample proof of this being true. _________________ We had the stone age, the bronze age, the industrial age and now we are in the age of mass deception and mind control for corporate profit. (The mass media age) |
|
Back to top |
|
|
KingAir42 Samba Member
Joined: May 24, 2002 Posts: 500 Location: Bakersfield
|
Posted: Sat Dec 23, 2023 10:24 am Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
|
|
oprn wrote: |
KingAir42 wrote: |
Just wondering why up to 1970 was 30w the highest viscosity oil printed in the owners manuals for summer use, then from 1971 onwards they added 40w as the highest viscosity summer oil. Pretty sure 40w existed before 1970, was it a single/dual port difference? |
I highly suspect it was due to the new emission laws that required engines to run hotter to get a cleaner burn.
The vast majority of modern VW enthusiasts strip off all the emissions components (EGR) and temperature controls and run their engines cold and rich. Very few run them for any length of time either today, just a few city blocks here and there. All this would dictate the need for a lighter than stock engine oil in my view and an additive package with the ability to keep contaminants (water and acids) neutralized and in suspension should be the paramount consideration.
All the rotted out engine case sumps we see today is ample proof of this being true. |
Cool, thanks for answering. I just run the 30-weight myself, and I have the thermostat installed too. _________________ A stitch in time saves nine |
|
Back to top |
|
|
pgtips Samba Member
Joined: July 23, 2009 Posts: 860 Location: essex
|
Posted: Tue Mar 05, 2024 2:25 am Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
|
|
Wildthings wrote: |
StockNazi wrote: |
I guess the Castol GTX 20W-50 is still a good choice, but it looks like the GTX 5W-20 and 5W-30 preformed almost equally well. Is there any benefit to using the GTX 20W-50 over say the GTX 5W-30?
The Valvoline VR1 oil preformed extremely well, but is almost twice the price. |
You need sufficient oil pressure, so if you can get that with a 5w30 oil, all should be well. |
Interesting to read, and I value your opinion WT. Have been considering this for some time. Can have longer interval (annual) between change as the oil doesn't break down so quickly ( my old VWs don't get driven a lot)
I read that cams need a certain level of zinc. 1000ppm is good (I read, not knowledgeable about this) so I'm set on trying 5w30 and will look at zinc content. _________________ 1975 1.8l FI Auto Westy - Subaru converted
1971 356 kit 1600 TP - semi/stickshift
1971 1302 LS - semi/stickshift
Trim ring info here -> http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=559668
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=451210
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=479721 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50356
|
Posted: Tue Mar 05, 2024 11:46 am Post subject: Re: Official "What oil / additives should I use" topic |
|
|
pgtips wrote: |
Wildthings wrote: |
StockNazi wrote: |
I guess the Castol GTX 20W-50 is still a good choice, but it looks like the GTX 5W-20 and 5W-30 preformed almost equally well. Is there any benefit to using the GTX 20W-50 over say the GTX 5W-30?
The Valvoline VR1 oil preformed extremely well, but is almost twice the price. |
You need sufficient oil pressure, so if you can get that with a 5w30 oil, all should be well. |
Interesting to read, and I value your opinion WT. Have been considering this for some time. Can have longer interval (annual) between change as the oil doesn't break down so quickly ( my old VWs don't get driven a lot)
I read that cams need a certain level of zinc. 1000ppm is good (I read, not knowledgeable about this) so I'm set on trying 5w30 and will look at zinc content. |
In my Type 4s or in my T-181, Thing with an added filter I have no problem with doing yearly oil changes when running either a synthetic oil or a straight weight oil. I don't run them in the winter when condensation is a problem though, if I did, that might merit additional oil changes.
The industry is using more specific types of ZDDP today that don't boil off as quickly, plus they have developed other antiwear additives, so ZDDP levels are not as critical as they were one to two decades ago. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|