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HELP!! Not getting spark
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E-DuB
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 11:45 am    Post subject: HELP!! Not getting spark Reply with quote

I hope you guys can help me.
I have a 1915 motor that has just been tuned up at VW Paradise, but it was out of the car when it was done. I just got done rewiring the entire car ( 57 oval) and I am 99% sure that all of my wiring is right. It has electronic ignition and a new flamethrower coil, all new spark plug wires, plugs and so on. The car turns over but I am not getting any spark from the coil. My question is :
There are two wires coming from the distributor/electronic ign. a red and a black. I assume they go to the coil on the pos and neg. There is also a black wire coming from the ignition switch and I have tried it on both the positive and negitive side of the coil
AM I missing anything to provide spark?

Thanks for the help
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gerg
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 11:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Black wire from car should be switched 12V+; check it with a volt meter to be sure. Should have voltage when key is ON. . . .and should go to the + side of coil. I wonder if you may have damaged the electronic module by hooking this lead up backwards (to the negative side of coil).
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Spezialist
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 12:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can touch the neg. side of coil to grnd to check for spark with your ig. mod. disconected.
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nc68bugman
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 1:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe to late. If wired backwards, i.e. ign wire to neg. on coil, and black wire to electronic module, it'll burn out instantly! I found out the hardway myself! Only choice is new one. Scott
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nsracing
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

spezialist wrote:
You can touch the neg. side of coil to grnd to check for spark with your ig. mod. disconected.


This is the best way to fry parts. Don't do it this way.

Use a test light to check for current. The coil will not work properly if wired backwards. IT is just an "up transformer" really. But it should not fry it. If you keep arching it, then yea you will fry it.

The eletronic module has two leads. 1 power source and 1 trigger. You have to know which goes where.

The module might not be triggering properly that is why no spark. But make sure you have power to the POS of coil. Test light! Use the test light! Very Happy
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E-DuB
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Electronic ign has a red wire and a black wire coming from it. I hate to assume anything at this point but i figure the red goes to the + and the black goes to the -. Hopefully I did not fry anything, because I hooked the ign black wire to the negitive at first, but only thurned the car over a few times with it like this. I am off the the auto parts store for a test light, Im keeping my fingers crossed!!!

Thanks for your input!!
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bugninva
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 5:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nsracing wrote:
spezialist wrote:
You can touch the neg. side of coil to grnd to check for spark with your ig. mod. disconected.


This is the best way to fry parts. Don't do it this way.

Use a test light to check for current. The coil will not work properly if wired backwards. IT is just an "up transformer" really. But it should not fry it. If you keep arching it, then yea you will fry it.



spezialist is correct, Nick....with the ignition module disconnected as he said, you can ground the negative side of the coil and it will fire...this is, after all, what the stock points do....
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nsracing
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Let us see... if you unhook the module you just have the coil. Power up the coil and ground the NEG side. There is NO load ...so the thing will just arc. IT is literally a 12Volt wire (primary winding) touching ground. If we are testing the primary winding, fine. But it should be the secondary we are diagnosing.

If you already established that you have power to the primary winding, then just check the secondary winding (HT wire) and see if you can get it to fire.
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E-DuB
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 5:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok here is the deal!!!

I am getting 12.4 volts to the positive side of the coil and 12.4 volts at the end of the coil wire(where it plugs into the top of the Dist Cap. But when i hold it by a part of the engine to see if there is spark , there is not any spark, but the current is 12.4 volts. I connect it to the dist cap and check the volts inside the cap and it also reads 12.4 volts. Once again I do not want to assume anything but the coil is recieving 12 volts and is putting out 12 volts to the distributor but the current ends there, it has a new rotor so that is also probably out of the question. There is no current getting to the plugs and no spark. It looks as though it is probably the electronic ignition !!!!!


If I try to have the coil wire arc when I pull it off, should it spark or will it just have the volts going through it?

My other question is the red and black wire coming off the electronic ignition. does the red go to + and the black go to -????


Any other ideas?
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bugninva
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 5:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nsracing wrote:
Let us see... if you unhook the module you just have the coil. Power up the coil and ground the NEG side. There is NO load ...so the thing will just arc. IT is literally a 12Volt wire (primary winding) touching ground. If we are testing the primary winding, fine. But it should be the secondary we are diagnosing.

If you already established that you have power to the primary winding, then just check the secondary winding (HT wire) and see if you can get it to fire.

you can fire the coil's secondary manually...did it for years with a sparkplug in my exhaust...cool flames...
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bugninva
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

E-DuB wrote:

My other question is the red and black wire coming off the electronic ignition. does the red go to + and the black go to -????




yes...but if you did hook the black from the ignition to the negative side of the coil as you said you did, there is a good chance that the module no longer works.... so install points and condensor...if the car runs, you know what you have done...
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E-DuB
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 5:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

what do you mean when you say the primary winding and secondary winding.

Also if I un hook the module and ground the neg side of the coil, am i checking to see if there is an arc coing from the end of the coil wire?
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bugninva
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 5:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

E-DuB wrote:
what do you mean when you say the primary winding and secondary winding.

Also if I un hook the module and ground the neg side of the coil, am i checking to see if there is an arc coing from the end of the coil wire?


this might help
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system.htm

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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E-DuB
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 5:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey guys thanks for all of the help. It looks like the elec ign module is doen. I dont have any points now so I will check later after i get back from the auto parts store.

last stupid question:
Does the coil have to be grounded? I have it attached to my firewall but it is over 6 coats of paint so I am wondering if the coil is not grounded, that it may be the problem. and if the black wire coming from the elec ign module is going to the coil to be grounded and maybe it is not because the coil is not grounded.
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bugninva
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

E-DuB wrote:

last stupid question:
Does the coil have to be grounded? I have it attached to my firewall but it is over 6 coats of paint so I am wondering if the coil is not grounded, that it may be the problem. and if the black wire coming from the elec ign module is going to the coil to be grounded and maybe it is not because the coil is not grounded.


no...the coil does not need to be grounded...the points(in a points system) are grounded....the points/condensor are just a trigger as is the electronic module....
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E-DuB
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also just tried the negative ground to check for spark and yes I get spark from the coil.

Is there any way to check the elec ign module now that I have it out of the distributor?

Looks like I am just going to go buy a new one tomorrow.

Once again thanks for all the help.
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bugninva
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i don't know of anyway to check the module...with it out of the distributor...hell for that matter i don't know how to check the electrical pickup period...i do know that if it is working properly you can turn the engine by hand with the ignition on and the coil wire near the engine block and you will get spark when you reach the designated firing zone...chances are good it is bad...
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With a show of hands, who has built over 1000 engines in the last 25 years? Anyone?


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nsracing
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No sir. The coil does not get grounded. Hook it up where you want it.

It is an independent unit.
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lostinbaja
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have a Pertronics Ignitor in the distributor and you plan on replacing it with the same, make sure you check the coil resistence. If the resistence is wrong it will takeout the module in a heartbeat. The coil specs will be in the box with the new module.
Jerry...
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Spezialist
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

E-DuB wrote:
I also just tried the negative ground to check for spark and yes I get spark from the coil.

Is there any way to check the elec ign module now that I have it out of the distributor?

Looks like I am just going to go buy a new one tomorrow.

Once again thanks for all the help.


By getting spark from the coil at your touch, you can now try to get it to flow through the cap rotor and wires- plugs. w/o having to buy a ig. mod.
Since you will rule out everything by doing so. Just set up rotor to each position at a time and test whole circut..you can use one plug with a jumper wire

Make sure you are also getting power to pos side with key on before you spend $$
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