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70fasty ITMC Member
Joined: March 11, 2005 Posts: 578 Location: Jacksonville Florida
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Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 2:57 pm Post subject: Overheating problem... |
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Ok I am pretty positive my problem has to do with all this...
1 is the heater box
2 is the pipe that runs along the heads and meats with the pipe from the heater box before it enters the car
3 is the opening from the fan shroud
Me and my dad were thinking of running alluminum hose from 3 to 1 on both sides. 2 would stay open, would that work? I have 2 heater elbows (the elbow that links 1,2, and 3 all together) but it doesnt fit up because of the aftermarket exhaust. So I don't think the elbows will help at all.
But Looking furthur I encountered another problem
This is where the heater box meets up with a pipe leading into the car, but as you can see its not linked here... I don't know if it is possible to reconnect it.
So please help me out, I can take more detailed pics if needed. _________________ WRX Blue 1970 VW Fastback
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69sqbck Samba Member
Joined: August 12, 2004 Posts: 311 Location: Savannah, GA
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Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 3:26 pm Post subject: heat |
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You can link 1 to 3 with aluminum hose. Block off 2 and reconnect the heater boxes to the car with aluminum hose. I have done this and the heat works great. Anthony at ISP West sells the aluminum hose that is the right size for this application. _________________ Don't think of yourself as an ugly person, think of yourself as a good looking Monkey!!!!!
1968 Ghia Vert
1969 Type 3 Squareback
1969 Type 3 Fastback
(o)\|/(o) Sole Designs, VW Restorations, Savannah, GA |
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70fasty ITMC Member
Joined: March 11, 2005 Posts: 578 Location: Jacksonville Florida
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Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 3:28 pm Post subject: |
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I'm not talking about getting the heat to work, I need the car to stop overheating. the oil light flickers after about 45 minutes on the highway/20 minutes in the city. _________________ WRX Blue 1970 VW Fastback
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John M. Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2005 Posts: 3833 Location: Boulder, CO
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Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 4:21 pm Post subject: |
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If you run the heaterboxes and don't hook up the hoses, it will overheat.... |
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KTPhil Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006 Posts: 34023 Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 4:24 pm Post subject: |
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Do as is suggested and you solve both problems.
Heating and cooling are intertwined on ACVWs. You can rarely have one without the other. |
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nodrenim Samba Member
Joined: October 06, 2006 Posts: 843 Location: Dobson, North Carolina
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Posted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 4:30 pm Post subject: |
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John M is correct, you must get the heat out of the heater boxes. After all they are heat sinks and will hold the heat too near the engine. One way to solve the problem would be to use 'J' tubes in place of the heater boxes, and close off the openings from the blower. This way you have no heat in the car and all the air will go to cool the engine. Good luck! |
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69sqbck Samba Member
Joined: August 12, 2004 Posts: 311 Location: Savannah, GA
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Posted: Sat Oct 21, 2006 8:53 am Post subject: heat |
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Sorry, I thought you wanted the heat to work. Do as the last few folks said, take the heater boxes off and replace with J tubes: http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC%2DD%2D2510%2D11 then cap the ends of the fan shroud and you should be good. Just a note, you have to buy type 3 J tubes, nothing else will fit. _________________ Don't think of yourself as an ugly person, think of yourself as a good looking Monkey!!!!!
1968 Ghia Vert
1969 Type 3 Squareback
1969 Type 3 Fastback
(o)\|/(o) Sole Designs, VW Restorations, Savannah, GA |
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Russ Wolfe Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2004 Posts: 25187 Location: Central Iowa
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Posted: Sat Oct 21, 2006 2:08 pm Post subject: |
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It was a proven fact in an article in Hot VW's a while back, that J-Tubes actually make the head run hotter. There is nothing to keep the radiated heat of the J-Tube for getting to the head. Unless you install heat shields.
Best thing is, to put the cooling system as close to stock as you can. And if you want to run headers, connect the fan housing outlets to the heater boxes. If you cant do that, cap the outlets from the fan housing, to quit dumping cooling air out of the fan housing. A soda can and a hose clamp is the perfect size to cap them off. _________________ Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up, you end up with a lot of scum on the top!--Edward Abbey
Gary: OK. Ima poop. |
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lrb Samba Member
Joined: October 16, 2006 Posts: 6 Location: Bay Area, CA
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Posted: Sat Oct 21, 2006 4:16 pm Post subject: Overheating problem...and questions |
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I'm new to the air-cooled concept, but what are signs that the car is about to overheat? 70Fasty mentioned the oil light flickers after running the car for a while. What other indicators are there? Is there a way to check temp? Thanks guys! |
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Godsbug Samba Member
Joined: April 29, 2006 Posts: 996 Location: Renton, WA
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Posted: Sat Oct 21, 2006 5:14 pm Post subject: |
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Your oil light will flicker or come on. When you oil light comes on, pull over immediately! The Idiot Book has some good stuff on it. Read it to get the feel and some principles of AC VW's, and get a Bentley to work on it and you should be pretty good. _________________ 2017 Golf Alltrack
2011 Fit
1968 Fastback |
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70fasty ITMC Member
Joined: March 11, 2005 Posts: 578 Location: Jacksonville Florida
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Posted: Fri Oct 27, 2006 6:00 pm Post subject: |
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I hooked up the alluming flex tubing today and drove it around for a good while, no overheating! Thanks guys! Now I just need to tune the engine so it doesnt hesitate so much... _________________ WRX Blue 1970 VW Fastback
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DONGKG The Araneta Boys
Joined: August 28, 2006 Posts: 5475 Location: Cainta, Rizal, Philippines, "A Certified Type 3 and Karmann Ghia Maniac"
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Posted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 6:47 am Post subject: Re: Overheating problem... |
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70fasty wrote: |
Ok I am pretty positive my problem has to do with all this...
1 is the heater box
2 is the pipe that runs along the heads and meats with the pipe from the heater box before it enters the car
3 is the opening from the fan shroud
Me and my dad were thinking of running alluminum hose from 3 to 1 on both sides. 2 would stay open, would that work? I have 2 heater elbows (the elbow that links 1,2, and 3 all together) but it doesnt fit up because of the aftermarket exhaust. So I don't think the elbows will help at all.
But Looking furthur I encountered another problem
This is where the heater box meets up with a pipe leading into the car, but as you can see its not linked here... I don't know if it is possible to reconnect it.
So please help me out, I can take more detailed pics if needed. |
What I did to our fasty was that we just covered the opening from the fun shroud going to the heater box exchange. But we did that because Philippines is a tropical country and heater is definitely not desirable. Instead we need airconditioning units. We also placed all the necessary tins aroud the engine to isolate the hot air from the cool air.
What is important is that all cool air must be enrting the grills on the fenders and the engine must be suck the hot air that passes the cylinder heads and liners. _________________ '67 KG Cabrio (Mickey) ;
'66 Type 3 (Sharky 2)
'72 Type 2 Homey
'67 Splitty Bus
'65 beetle;'69 Country Buggy; '44 Kubelwagen (replica) TOOB MEMBER #20 |
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slamrbri Samba Member
Joined: September 04, 2005 Posts: 72 Location: Warner Robins, GA
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Posted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 3:38 pm Post subject: |
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70fasty wrote: |
I hooked up the alluming flex tubing today and drove it around for a good while, no overheating! Thanks guys! Now I just need to tune the engine so it doesnt hesitate so much... |
Did you end up getting the hose from ISP West or was it something you got locally? I've got the same problem. |
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70fasty ITMC Member
Joined: March 11, 2005 Posts: 578 Location: Jacksonville Florida
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Posted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 5:00 pm Post subject: |
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slamrbri wrote: |
70fasty wrote: |
I hooked up the alluming flex tubing today and drove it around for a good while, no overheating! Thanks guys! Now I just need to tune the engine so it doesnt hesitate so much... |
Did you end up getting the hose from ISP West or was it something you got locally? I've got the same problem. |
At the local VW shop they had 2 1/2 inch thick empi alluminum flex hose, I bought them and some hose clamps and tightened them down. It's a little hard to get them on, but they work great! _________________ WRX Blue 1970 VW Fastback
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FASTBACKDON The other insensitive jerk like Neil
Joined: October 08, 2004 Posts: 3592 Location: TORRANCE CALIF
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Posted: Wed Nov 01, 2006 7:09 pm Post subject: |
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70fasty wrote: |
I'm not talking about getting the heat to work, I need the car to stop overheating. the oil light flickers after about 45 minutes on the highway/20 minutes in the city. |
Hole number 3 should NOT BE OPEN!!! I do not have heater boxes. I went to kragen auto parts bougt 2each 1 7/8 inch expandable freeze plugs and pluged the fan housing do that and your overheating problems should vanish |
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DONGKG The Araneta Boys
Joined: August 28, 2006 Posts: 5475 Location: Cainta, Rizal, Philippines, "A Certified Type 3 and Karmann Ghia Maniac"
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Russ Wolfe Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2004 Posts: 25187 Location: Central Iowa
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Posted: Sun Nov 26, 2006 10:16 am Post subject: |
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Air Conditioning in a convertible ???
Just teasing. _________________ Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up, you end up with a lot of scum on the top!--Edward Abbey
Gary: OK. Ima poop. |
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DONGKG The Araneta Boys
Joined: August 28, 2006 Posts: 5475 Location: Cainta, Rizal, Philippines, "A Certified Type 3 and Karmann Ghia Maniac"
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Posted: Mon Nov 27, 2006 2:31 am Post subject: |
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Russ Wolfe wrote: |
Air Conditioning in a convertible ???
Just teasing. |
Yeah, Russ. Because of the tropical climate in the Philippines, we installed a/c unit on out Karmann Ghia Vert. But, of course, when the top is down, definitely, the a/c unit is off. And that the way it is here? _________________ '67 KG Cabrio (Mickey) ;
'66 Type 3 (Sharky 2)
'72 Type 2 Homey
'67 Splitty Bus
'65 beetle;'69 Country Buggy; '44 Kubelwagen (replica) TOOB MEMBER #20 |
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pitslayer Samba Member
Joined: September 04, 2005 Posts: 188
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Posted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 7:47 am Post subject: |
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Godsbug wrote: |
Your oil light will flicker or come on. When you oil light comes on, pull over immediately! The Idiot Book has some good stuff on it. Read it to get the feel and some principles of AC VW's, and get a Bentley to work on it and you should be pretty good. |
yeh pulling over is usually good thing to do, my fastback use to over heat like a bugger. also noticed that the car was very hesitant when it gets hot. then it cuts out, then wont start for 4 hours and sits tehre smoking like its on fire...then when it starts it`ll drive 12miles with no oil in it, 3 cylinders, one melted piston. and will finall give up after 12 miles....
althought according to everyone on here this doesnt work at all, but you can run an induction kit into the airbox. i drove to bugjam last year and it took 8 hours due to overheating. i bought some flexy heater pipe stuff. took 2 bolts out of the decklid(ones closet to the car) so that it hinges wierdly, stick the pipes into the airbox. and out the top of the decklid. now of course this apparantly doesnt work, even thow the fan sucked air through the pipes, because you could hear it and feel it, and of course because it didnt work, i was able to 95mph all the way back constant without any overheating, and it never overheated again either. even when i rerouted the pipes to under the car...but like i said it doesnt work thow according to most people on here |
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blankmange Type 3 Darksider
Joined: July 17, 2004 Posts: 11498 Location: Bloßer Stahl-preapocalyptic MidCoast
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Posted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 7:49 am Post subject: |
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pitslayer wrote: |
Godsbug wrote: |
Your oil light will flicker or come on. When you oil light comes on, pull over immediately! The Idiot Book has some good stuff on it. Read it to get the feel and some principles of AC VW's, and get a Bentley to work on it and you should be pretty good. |
yeh pulling over is usually good thing to do, my fastback use to over heat like a bugger. also noticed that the car was very hesitant when it gets hot. then it cuts out, then wont start for 4 hours and sits tehre smoking like its on fire...then when it starts it`ll drive 12miles with no oil in it, 3 cylinders, one melted piston. and will finall give up after 12 miles....
althought according to everyone on here this doesnt work at all, but you can run an induction kit into the airbox. i drove to bugjam last year and it took 8 hours due to overheating. i bought some flexy heater pipe stuff. took 2 bolts out of the decklid(ones closet to the car) so that it hinges wierdly, stick the pipes into the airbox. and out the top of the decklid. now of course this apparantly doesnt work, even thow the fan sucked air through the pipes, because you could hear it and feel it, and of course because it didnt work, i was able to 95mph all the way back constant without any overheating, and it never overheated again either. even when i rerouted the pipes to under the car...but like i said it doesnt work thow according to most people on here |
if you had bothered to put up or shut up like you had originally stated you would, we might have gotten off of your ass..
post up some pics of your brilliant engineering and we'll see... until then, you are still an idiot... _________________ póg mo thóin
Certified DHS Technician
Samba Member # 24517 |
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