Possibly buying this used 2l FI engine - questions

[poptop tom]

This engine (GD engine #) is sitting in a warehouse near me.
I hope to buy and rebuild.

If the seller doesn't have any history on this engine,
what things can I do to it to check for wear, etc., as it
sits?



I don't want to buy something that isn't rebuildable.

What would you experts look for? Whatever rebuild I ended
up doing, I planned on cracking the case and replacing cam,
bearings, etc., heads, if need be, and p&c's.

It will be my first rebuild.

Thanks,
Tom

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'76 Deluxe Campmobile

[MarkWard]

Bring a sparkplug socket. You should be able to spin the engine with your hands by grasping the flywheel with the plugs out. If the engine will not turn over by hand, it may be frozen tight. It could be the pistons stuck in the cylinders, not so bad, to a rod or main bearing being seized, very bad. How much are they asking? Was the engine running when it came out? Why did it come out? Other than that, the other tests will be hard to perform on a engine sitting on the ground and with out some more tools and compressed air. There is an oil strainer that is in the bottom of even the 2 liters, not easy to get to. A cylinder leak down could give you an idea if a valve seat is dropped or burnt. If your plan is to rebuild, getting the heads reworked if saveable, new pistons and cylinders, hopefully reusing the case, rods, and crankshaft. If in good shape, just a polish on the crank. We bought a 2 liter on the ground once that did not run from a shop. We never found the reason it did not run, but did the rebuild as described above and transplanted into a 76. You may want to plan on having the injectors professionally cleaned as well.

[poptop tom]

[pyrOman]

[steponmebbbboom]

if someone wants top dollar for a rebuilt or good used engine, IMO they should have the means to start the engine. If they do not, I would consider it a usable core and pay accordingly. Buying a rebuilt or good used engine without going over it yourself is risky business as it is, so I personally would not be generous or assuming with anything Im looking at.

You should be able to do a leakdown to evaluate the jugs and heads with it on the ground, as well as measure the crankshaft endplay, this will at least tell you something.

[CarlSpackler]

Tom,

This is exciting! I too am looking for a 2.0l for my first rebuild, so please document and report on your progress. I'm around the corner in Cincinnati, so maybe we'll be able to compare notes in the not-too-distant future.

If you by chance run into another one, let me know

Peace,
Chris
_________________
'67 Micro Bus
'73 Thing
'91 Westy

[VWBusrepairman]

[Karl]

poptop tom,

I see in your sig that you have a 76 bus.

What is the build date on the door post?
12/75 and lower?
Or 1/76 and later?

Is your vin below 2x6 2077 583?
or above 2x6 2077 584?

I ask because that engine in your picture is an early 76 engine. Pre vin 2x6 2077 584......

[poptop tom]

Karl,
My bus was built 04/76. The VIN # is 2362124068.

The # on the engine case was GD 009431. Not sure what year bus it came out of.

Tom
_________________
'76 Deluxe Campmobile

[Karl]

That engine is from a bus built between 8/75 and 12/75 and vin 2x6 2000 001 and 2x6 2077 583.

How can you tell? At 1st glance, look at the EGR valve and the exhaust crossover pipe.

The EGR valve is vacuum operated. Yours will be mechanical on the left front corner of the plenum. The 75-early 76 EGR enters the throttle housing on top.

The crossover pipe has a preheater pipe across the top of it. The left rear upper corner tin has an extra 2" hole in it to feed the 75-early 76 only air cleaner assembly.

If you build this up as a spare, you would just have the long block. You will need to swap all your tin, exhaust, and FI over to install it. You can not build it as a complete turnkey engine to be able to swap in a hour.

If you had all the FI pieces that came on it, you would notice the AFM has part number 0 280 200 012 on it and is 6 pin.
Your 1/76+ engine has an AFM that is part number 0 280 200 018 or 020 and is 7 pins. The EFI wiring harness is TOTALLY different between the 2 76 engines....

[poptop tom]

Great.
Although I do appreciate you catching that for me.

There is a guy in Nor Cal that has a good running '78 bus engine for sale. Wanna check it out for me, Karl?

What am I getting into if I bought a '78 cal engine?
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'76 Deluxe Campmobile

[Karl]

A 78 engine would be a drop in swap. You would be gaining hydraulic lifters.

[poptop tom]

Not really looking "to gain" hydraulic lifters.....

What about smog related stuff?
If need be, I'd like to convert the HE's and exhaust to the
'72-'74 style.

Anybody know what it costs to ship an engine across the country?
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'76 Deluxe Campmobile

[CarlSpackler]

I've had quotes from $150 for a short block to $350 for a complete engine. That, combined with the fact I'm not in a hurry, is why I've isolated my search to within driving distance!
_________________
'67 Micro Bus
'73 Thing
'91 Westy

[VWBusrepairman]

[poptop tom]

I have a seven pin afm, harness, and FI here as a spare. Or for whatever use. All I need is an ECU, for the most part.

And I need one or two addt. pieces of tin to make like it the late '76+ engine I desire?

So swap out the tin, and put my FI on it, and I'll be good to go? ((More or less) as I plan to break the case, inspect the inside, possibly upgrade cam/crank, new p&c's, rebuild heads, and replace HE and exhaust to '72-'74.)

This all that's necessary?

[VWBusrepairman]

[poptop tom]

I appreciate the offer for a ECU. My afm is a 7 pin with the part # 0280200020 on it. It's out of a '78. Does this sound right? 022906021 AG or AGU.
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'76 Deluxe Campmobile