First day engine install...some questions

[OLDveedubs]

Well this was my first time installing an engine. And it still isn't done...but I didn't plan to get an engine in and out in one day. Here is what I did, I have some questions at the end also.

Car Specs
Bone stock (not for long, 1600sp going in) 1959 Type 1
Split Case Transaxle
36hp Engine

Today's Progress
Pulled the old engine
Cleaned all the grim and grit from over the years (bad axle boots and a leaky main seal on the engine didn't make this process any easier)
Replaced transaxle mounts
Replaced axle boots
Replaced input shaft seal
Replaced throwout bearing


Here are tomorrows tasks:
Change transaxle fluid
Prep engine bay for install at some later date

As I went along today I noticed somethings I needed and others I didn't. For example, my engine came without the clutch attached so I will need to pick a clutch alignment tool...no big deal. Also will need some additional fuel line.

Here are my questions:

I got the rear engine to body seal that is shaped like a U and I didn't realize that I needed one for above the transaxle as well. Is this the right seal?

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=111813741G

Can you think of any other easy stuff to do while the engine is out? Any parts of the equation I am missing? Thanks!
_________________
-Ryan
Restoration Updates
www.my59bug.com
"Perfection through inspection."

[RareAir]

The seal shown in the pic is mounted above the transmission.

What size motor did you remove from the 59? I'm asuming it was the stock 36hp motor as you still have the crashbox transmissin installed. If that is correct, you may need to clearance the bell housing area of the tranny to fit a 12v/1600 flywheel properly. You may also need to install a 12v starter bushing if you're converting to 12v
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1947 Typ 11a
1954 Typ 117
1956 Typ 151
1959 Typ 117
1959 Typ 265
1961 356B
1966 Typ 151
1966 Typ 241

[OLDveedubs]

Thanks for your comments! The motor was a stock 36hp w/ the splitcase transaxle but I planned for that.

The new motor, the 1600sp, has a special 1966 only bus flywheel (type 3 also?) that fits in the splitcase transaxle, without any modifications. That way you don't have to modify the transaxle and you get the benefit of having a 200mm clutch. I will order that seal and hopefully have everything done by next weekend!!
_________________
-Ryan
Restoration Updates
www.my59bug.com
"Perfection through inspection."

[OLDveedubs]

Well day two has arrived

I installed the clutch with a clutch alignment tool, torqued the bolts down to 18 ft/lbs.

Had some issues fitting the 1600sp into the 59 type 1 engine bay. It still isnt completely on. It is on the main shaft but we cant seem to make the engine and transmission meet. Granted the engine tin is tight, but we have the right seals installed and made sure one end was over the tin, the other under.

Any ideas on what could create the binding? I've tried rotating the crank to see if the splines on the shaft would match up with the clutch and still no luck.

Please help!
_________________
-Ryan
Restoration Updates
www.my59bug.com
"Perfection through inspection."

[Eric&Barb]

[quote="OLDveedubs"]
Any ideas on what could create the binding? I've tried rotating the crank to see if the splines on the shaft would match up with the clutch and still no luck. [quote]

Hi Ryan,
Try sliding under the bug just forward of the rear wheels. Look with a flashlight for the lower engine studs being able to go into the holes in the tranny bellhousing. We have found it alot easier when installing engines in type 1s to remove rear engine tin, once engine is in place install this tin.
Eric&Barb

[OLDveedubs]

Thanks E&B. I did remove my rear engine tin. The engine is literally on the bottom bolts and only about a 1/2 inch away from fulling contacting the transaxle. It's just confusing, cause I made sure the clutch was aligned properly. Literally two people shoving the engine only moves the car. Keep the advice coming!
_________________
-Ryan
Restoration Updates
www.my59bug.com
"Perfection through inspection."

[Eric&Barb]

Hi Ryan,
If you are working on a fairly flat surface, you can try this. Put blocks in front of front wheels, put tranny in reverse, and release the E-brake. Then rotate engine clockwise. If the input shaft and clutch disc splines are engaged the Vw will back up and the engine on the floor jack will slide in place. Also make sure your floor jack is not set too high or too low!
Eric&Barb

[oc63rag]

I went through the same thing recently. I had to raise and lower the engine a few times to get it just right. It seemed like there was a very specific point where the engine just slid right in. If I was off by 1/2" or so it wouldn't work.
Also, make sure the angle of the engine is correct. I had to tilt mine with one had while I pushed in with the other.
You'll get it.