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karfer67
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Joined: January 05, 2005
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 Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2005 7:41 pm Post subject: |
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the only time it has flickered on was when i forgot to check the oil one mornning and made a sharp turn which i guess made the oil slosh inside the sump droping the oil pressure for a moment. i stoped let it settle toped it off and that was that. the engine seems really tight by that i mean starts right up good power, no major metal in the oil when i change it etc. other than this cooling issue it has not skiped a beat. even running hot it seems not to complain but i know that it is not good and i am going to have my mechanic check it out next week. i have exhausted all my own ideas and being that these are the first ICT webers i have delt with (i don't have a scematic that shows where the adjustment screws are) i don't want to make things worse.
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Tram
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| Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2005 9:05 pm Post subject: |
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I actually have an old (1979) Haynes manual for Weber carbs out in the shop archives, but it doesn't cover your model of Webers- they're probably too new. So I'm of no help there, I'm afraid.
*chortle* Haynes + Weber. Talk about two bad ideas that go well together... J/K. 
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karfer67
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| Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2005 12:20 am Post subject: |
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lol it's funny i was looking for a new linkage set up for ict webers the other day and all i could find was the bugpack round bar set up. i know there are others made i just can't find them.
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karfer67
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| Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2005 11:20 pm Post subject: |
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i spend most of my time driving on the freeway so we are talking 3,000 plus rpms. i am asumming that the main jet needs to be bumped up one size and then see what happens? i found the air fuel screw but this only controls the mix at idle correct?
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Tram
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| Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2005 11:55 pm Post subject: |
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| karfer67 wrote: |
| i spend most of my time driving on the freeway so we are talking 3,000 plus rpms. i am asumming that the main jet needs to be bumped up one size and then see what happens? i found the air fuel screw but this only controls the mix at idle correct? |
If your base setting is lean, it will run lean throughout the range. I'd adjust it to where your exhaust feels coolest and your plugs start getting a deeper brown. Back the mix screws out (counterclockwise) until the idle just starts to drop off, then back in 1/4 turn on each carb. Run it like that at highway speed and see what happens.
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SquareTone
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Joined: July 10, 2003
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Location: Jenks, Oklahoma
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| Posted: Sat Jul 02, 2005 7:04 am Post subject: |
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| You can probably find the spark plug tins here in the classifieds. If not then I'm sure TheDDB can fix you up. |
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karfer67
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| Posted: Sun Jul 03, 2005 4:16 pm Post subject: |
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hey tram tried what you said and yes it heats up much more slowly. still got to 230 to 240 but was lower.
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Russ Wolfe
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| Posted: Sun Jul 03, 2005 4:21 pm Post subject: |
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Did you ever check the accuracy of the temperature gage?? 212F in boiling water?
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karfer67
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| Posted: Sun Jul 03, 2005 4:23 pm Post subject: |
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sorry russ i have not but you can feel the engine loose some power when it is tunning at these temps on the guage and it smells hot.
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Tram
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| Posted: Sun Jul 03, 2005 4:23 pm Post subject: |
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| karfer67 wrote: |
| hey tram tried what you said and yes it heats up much more slowly. still got to 230 to 240 but was lower. |
Now try retarding the timing a bit, as close to the original specs as you can get it to where it still runs OK, and I'll bet it's even lower. 
Then do the carb thing again, and after that see if you can get the timing pretty close to specs. It may be a one- step- at- a- time process, but it should help.
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karfer67
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| Posted: Sun Jul 03, 2005 10:39 pm Post subject: |
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i did so we shall see how it goes.
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karfer67
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| Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2005 11:17 am Post subject: |
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i timed it staticly to 5 BTDC and it seems to run fine. good acceleraton etc. did not get a change to take it out and see how hot it gets thought. another thing tram i have been getting some oil smoke from #1 cylinder. my mechanic said it was most likely an oil control ring. sometimes when i get off the freeway come to a stop then go it will puff some smoke but will stop after that.
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Tram
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| Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2005 11:34 am Post subject: |
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The oil burning could very well be a ring. As long as it isn't using excessive oil or fouling the plug, it shouldn't be a big cause of concern. Eventually it will need to be dealt with, though. What grade of oil are you using?
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karfer67
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| Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2005 4:14 pm Post subject: |
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the plug is darker but not fouled at all. i am using 30 wt valvoline max life oil and change it a lot.
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neilbates
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Location: San Jose, CA
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| Posted: Thu Jul 07, 2005 8:54 pm Post subject: |
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you stated that the sending unit is in the relief valve by the rear of the engine. Is you motor a dual relief engine? If so I had the same problem when I built my motor and put it in, I put the sending unit in the relief valve by the pulley, this is pre cooler, ran in the 218-230 temp range, I tried everthing I could to get the temp lower, but nothing helped. Then someone told me that on a dual relief engine the sending unit should go in the second relief valve by the bell housing, now that I moved it I run in the 160-190 range. Hope this helps
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karfer67
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| Posted: Thu Jul 07, 2005 10:50 pm Post subject: |
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yes it is in the hole closer to the rear of the car. are both holes the same size? i will check that out and see what happens. but even running 91 and timmed to 5 btdc staticly i get some pinging if once hot then have to get on it for some reason in trafic. seems like once the temp noses over 220 it shoots up to 250 or so very quickly then stops there. even if moving the sender helps out i know this sucker is still running hot for what ever reason. maybe try to retard the timming a little more?
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Tram
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| Posted: Thu Jul 07, 2005 10:53 pm Post subject: |
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| karfer67 wrote: |
| yes it is in the hole closer to the rear of the car. are both holes the same size? i will check that out and see what happens. but even running 91 and timmed to 5 btdc staticly i get some pinging if once hot then have to get on it for some reason in trafic. seems like once the temp noses over 220 it shoots up to 250 or so very quickly then stops there. even if moving the sender helps out i know this sucker is still running hot for what ever reason. maybe try to retard the timming a little more? |
What is your engine code?
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karfer67
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| Posted: Fri Jul 08, 2005 9:15 am Post subject: |
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i asume the code is in the regular place like type 1 engines. so how can i read it with out taking the engine apart?
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raru
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| Posted: Fri Jul 08, 2005 12:50 pm Post subject: |
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the engine code is visible from the top, center rear... near the AAR.
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karfer67
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| Posted: Sat Jul 09, 2005 6:05 pm Post subject: |
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ah thanks i will go check it in a bit
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