Distributor stuck

[EVfun]

I'm having a little trouble getting the original distributor out of my stock 36 horse engine. I have removed the vacuum line, removed the wire to the coil, and pulled the cap and rotor. I then loosened the clamp at the distributor (10mm nut) and loosened the clamp at the block (13mm nut.) The hold down bracket rattles loose so it isn't holding the distributor down. I cannot get the distributor to turn, I cannot get it to lift. I don't want to put a pipe wrench on it.

Any ideas about what is holding it down and how to get it free would be appreciated. Thank you!
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[Danwvw]

Sounds like it's become oxidized into the case. Did you try some pb blast penetrating oil and perhaps hit it with a bit of compressed air from a air hose nozzle to push the penetrating oil down into the case? Does the rotor turn freely?
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[EVfun]

I did shoot PB blaster down around the clamp trying to get into the case and then took a brass bar and a hammer and gently tapped against the distributor body just above the clamp to vibrate it in. I will do so again. I slapped it back together, except leaving the distributor clamp loose, and started it back up hoping a little heat will also help. I've never had a running engine where I couldn't turn the distributor with both hands at worst.

The motor was rebuilt around 25 years ago but only seen around 500-1000 miles a year since then, until I bought the car last year. While seeing if my timing light would work on 6 volts I found that the advance mechanism was dead, so it advances in all the way at start up and I was idling with 30 or so degrees advance. I need to swap out that distributor with another one that has an advance that returns when I let go of the rotor.
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[EVfun]

Dan offered some good ideas, thank you! At this point I've taken it for a drive with the distributor clamp loose and several more attempts to add PB Blaster and tapping the housing. The dizzy hasn't budged. I did pull the vacuum advance and it makes the low end better, but that means I'm now running with fixed timing at around 25 degrees advance (to much at the low end, to little at the high end, it can be felt when driving.)

More VW forum searching and I've found one more idea. I saw an example where the vacuum can was pulled and the hole used to insert a screwdriver to gain leverage. I'm open to any other ideas, please! Perhaps there was a reason VW switched to aluminum dizzy bodies instead of iron.
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[Glenn]

Get a strap wrench and it sill come loose. Many times the rubber o-ring locks up.
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Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Member #1009

#BlueSquare

[EVfun]

Success at last! After a second drive, I got a little rotation with both hands around the distributor. I hit it again with PB blaster and tap tap tap. I left it overnight.

This morning I could move it a little with both hands when cold so I knew I was getting somewhere. I took it for a longer drive with the clamp loose but the vacuum line hooked back up including a return run on an uphill stretch of I-5. As soon as I got it in the garage I started working it. I got easier rotation, and with more oil and more tapping I started to get upward movement. Another 20 minutes with my hands wrapped under the thing so I could rotate and pull up and it came out.

The o-ring was sticking a bit. It also seems to have pretty much prevented any oil from getting past it either way. I wiped the hole down with a lint free cloth and there is a bit of black corrosion present. At this point I've carefully cleaned it all out and the hole looks clean and smooth. The iron distributor didn't rust. Is there something I should wipe the inside of the hole with to help prevent future corrosion between the iron and magnesium? I was thinking about a thin film of Lithium grease, but I don't know if that is a good idea.
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[williamM]

I would use a silicone grease as white can swell some rubber compounds-

Would static set timing at 7 to make it run then see why the idle timing is so high- sometimes the ported vac for timing is working when the engine is at idle- not good- back down the idle speed till the ported vac shuts off - then set timing w/o vac- to 28. at 2500 rpm. now you have a base to work from and can get idle speed and timing under controll-

What carb n dist are you running?
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some days I get up and just sit and think. Some days I just sit.

opinion untempered by fact is ignorance.

Don't step in any!

[Starbucket]

Take your dist. apart. You probably have broken springs. Take them to a good hardware store and see if you can find a match. Other than that find another dist. to use as a doner.

[williamM]

[Glenn]

[tasb]

Aw, c'mon Glenn, wheres your sense of adventure? Reshape a gate spring and let er rip.

The springs rarely break. They do get gummed up or more precisely the weights get stuck which causes the springs to stop doing their job.
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Roads Scholar &
1957 Kombi low mileage 36 hp governor equipped M 178 Slow Drag Winner 2014, 2015, 2018

1965 hardtop Deluxe Microbus owned since 1990 M 620 factory 12 v 1500cc

1961 (October)Single Cab- Road Trip Workhorse