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BryceSegatto
Samba Member
Joined: November 23, 2015
Posts: 94
Location: North Phoenix
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 Posted: Wed May 18, 2016 9:28 am Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build |
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| i bought the bugzilla conversion beam gusseted with adjusters 10" towers, looking into the saco rack this week. im going to keep the type 1 trans for testing only and i accidentally ordered 2 sets of boots not thinking... it was 2 in the morning and idk what i was thinking extra is good i guess. and the cv joint the picture online had 4 cv's and boots for a killer price and after i ordered it i looked into the order and there was only 1 cv and boot, guess thats why it was at a killer price...once i get the bus trans i will look into new axles what do you mean fabrication on the trailing arms, now what about shock mounts on the arms? do i have to cut the existing ones off to be able to put the box kit on? should i wait to put the shock mounts on the arms until the cage is built? going to get offroad spindles, front end is next!! |
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dustymojave
Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2007
Posts: 5815
Location: Lake LA, Mojave Desert, SoCal
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| Posted: Thu May 19, 2016 1:31 pm Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build |
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| BryceSegatto wrote: |
| i bought the bugzilla conversion beam gusseted with adjusters 10" towers, looking into the saco rack this week. |
...
So you're going to get 10" travel shocks, right?
| BryceSegatto wrote: |
...once i get the bus trans i will look into new axles |
Are you going for Type 4 CVs? Whichever CVs you use, you will need to decide which 1st, then you need to have the stub axles and trans flanges to match. Once the trans is mounted and the arms on with the stubs and appropriate CV flanges...THEN you need to measure the axle length needed. If you are using stock length arms, then even if you use a 002 trans, stock length axles should work. Type 2 or Type 4 CV joints will fit on stock Type 1 axles, although it would be better if your axles had longer splines, like in Sway-A-Way axles. Stock axles have just barely enough spline length to fit the CVs and have a shoulder on the inner end of the spline so the CV won't move on the shaft. Race axles have longer splines to allow the axle to "float" back and forth in the CVs,
| BryceSegatto wrote: |
| what do you mean fabrication on the trailing arms, now what about shock mounts on the arms? do i have to cut the existing ones off to be able to put the box kit on? should i wait to put the shock mounts on the arms until the cage is built? |
Yes you will need to cut the stock shock mounts off the arms to install the beef kit. Then new shock mounts will need to be fabricated. You can use the off-the-shelf shock mounts that go with the beef kit, but they will get in the way of bigger CVs. So shock mounts should be fabricated to fit when you have the shocks, and the arms and are building the roll cage. Do a lot of looking at pictures of other 5-1600 race cars to see how they should be built. The shock mounts should be built so the bolts are parallel to the IRS pivot bolt.
| BryceSegatto wrote: |
| going to get offroad spindles, front end is next!! |
OK, good! For front brakes I recommend link pin drums with pressed-in studs, stock ball joint backing plates to fit the aftermarket spindles, with stock ball joint brake shoes and wheel cylinders.
For the rear brakes, look for Thing brake drums with stock IRS backing plates and shoes. If you can't find Thing drums, you COULD use stock IRS drums with the thick steel 5-lug adapters. 4 lug would work fine, but the combo spindles don't fit ball joint drums and for many reasons it would be best to have the same lug pattern all around. Like, so you won't have to carry 2 spare tires... Early bus (small nut reduction box) brakes will fit and work well also or early 5-lug Type 3 drums.
Disc brakes are the cool setup, but race quality disc brakes cost in the neighborhood of $1200/axle. EMPI and other such disc brake kits for street use are not up to the beating and will break quickly used hard off road. Plus they weigh as much as the drum setup or more. The castings for the hubs are poor quality iron that cracks and spins out splines.
And I still don't know what you meant with this:
| Quote: |
| bushings and gaskets to seal the trailing arm to the brake drum |
Did you mean axle seal kits?
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet. |
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BryceSegatto
Samba Member
Joined: November 23, 2015
Posts: 94
Location: North Phoenix
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Dark Earth
Samba Member
Joined: December 22, 2015
Posts: 1054
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BryceSegatto
Samba Member
Joined: November 23, 2015
Posts: 94
Location: North Phoenix
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| Posted: Mon May 23, 2016 11:54 am Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build |
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| So the rear nuts that secure the brake drums on are stuck! I've tried everything, heat WD 40 hammers...now to make sure I'm not an idiot, the passenger side is right to loosen left to tighten and the driver side is left to loosen right to tighten? |
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BryceSegatto
Samba Member
Joined: November 23, 2015
Posts: 94
Location: North Phoenix
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| Posted: Mon May 23, 2016 11:56 am Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build |
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| And looks like I did! It hasn't even come in yet...oh well |
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Dark Earth
Samba Member
Joined: December 22, 2015
Posts: 1054
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| Posted: Mon May 23, 2016 12:14 pm Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build |
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I believe that both drivers side and passenger side are right hand thread ... meaning clockwise to tighten and counter clockwise to loosen. A lot of guys say "righty tighty, lefty loosy" to help remember.
I checked my empi conversion stub axles and nuts, since they're still off the car ... And they're both right hand thread. I haven't taken the stock axle nuts off yet, but I'm assuming they're both right hand thread too.
There's nothing idiotic about not knowing something. Just keep plugging away. When you get this thing done, you're gonna be happy.
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My Build: '69 Baja - Dark Earth Version
~I'm almost done. I just lack finishing up.~  |
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BryceSegatto
Samba Member
Joined: November 23, 2015
Posts: 94
Location: North Phoenix
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| Posted: Mon May 23, 2016 11:09 pm Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build |
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| Quote: |
| I believe that both drivers side and passenger side are right hand thread ... meaning clockwise to tighten and counter clockwise to loosen. A lot of guys say "righty tighty, lefty loosy" to help remember. |
Well that helped! The passenger side came off fairly easy when I was twisting the right way...  the driver side was a tough one, but nothing some heat and breaker bar jumping can't fix! 2 wrenches and 1 screwdriver later the cv nuts are off along with the brake drums. I tried a time or two on the trailing arm allen bolts, but I'll leave that for tomorrow. Got the stearing column completely out ready for that rack and pinion! Just want these trailing arms off so I can box them already!  |
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BryceSegatto
Samba Member
Joined: November 23, 2015
Posts: 94
Location: North Phoenix
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| Posted: Fri May 27, 2016 9:06 pm Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build |
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| Just ordered a kit to completely redo the brakes and everything is off the rear end I'm in the middle of cleaning things up to put it back in, for the box kit on the trailing arms do I cut everything off in order to weld it up? What do I leave on what do I cut off? |
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Dark Earth
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Joined: December 22, 2015
Posts: 1054
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Jackson_B
Samba Member
Joined: May 27, 2016
Posts: 1
Location: California
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| Posted: Fri May 27, 2016 11:58 pm Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build |
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| Awesome build! Im also a high school student attempting to build a baja. In the next month or so i will be buying a 1970 stock bug from my neighbor. This whole forum has been very helpful towards helping me decide what I will do with my bug. Thanks for the motivation and keep working hard! Can not wait to see this thing all done!!! |
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Dark Earth
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Joined: December 22, 2015
Posts: 1054
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dustymojave
Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2007
Posts: 5815
Location: Lake LA, Mojave Desert, SoCal
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| Posted: Tue May 31, 2016 10:08 pm Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build |
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They are legal as long as they are no wider than stock arms and no more than 1" longer.
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet. |
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Dark Earth
Samba Member
Joined: December 22, 2015
Posts: 1054
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| Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2016 7:52 pm Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build |
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So dustymojave ... Do most 5-1600 racers build their own trailing arms, use boxed stock trailing arms, or do they buy a certain manufactured trailing arm ?
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My Build: '69 Baja - Dark Earth Version
~I'm almost done. I just lack finishing up.~ |
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BryceSegatto
Samba Member
Joined: November 23, 2015
Posts: 94
Location: North Phoenix
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| Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2016 10:02 pm Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build |
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| Jackson I gotta say these are the best cars to learn how to build with. I'd say get the thing running and rolling as soon as possible so you don't loose interest! And that's a good question on the arms what do most people buy. Brake parts came in! |
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dustymojave
Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2007
Posts: 5815
Location: Lake LA, Mojave Desert, SoCal
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| Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2016 1:00 am Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build |
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These days, most 5-1600 racers building a new race car pay an experienced proven fab shop somewhere in the neighborhood of $50,000 to build them a car. Very few of those get modified stock arms. Most use micro stub hubs. Arms ARE available from places like Kartek and McKenzies.
To get started...I recommend modified stock arms, with stock Type 1 hubs. Use 930 CVs and aftermarket axles. But you COULD use stock length arms and stock axles with Type 4 CVs and Porsche 944 stubs and flanges. Not as much travel, but it will work and get you going and learning without shooting your wallet out of your hip pocket with a 12 gauge shotgun.
You could use the off-the-shelf box kit, or the Prowler's style tubular style beef kit. Or design your own. Be sure that before you weld something together, that there is plenty of room for the CV flange, joint and boot.
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet. |
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BryceSegatto
Samba Member
Joined: November 23, 2015
Posts: 94
Location: North Phoenix
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| Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2016 12:10 am Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build |
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| Guys I'm going to try to do whatever I can to get this thing rolling! I'm starting to lose interest so it needs to get together soon! Don't worry I am not going to get rid of the car, I'm knocking to be another one of those pages! I'm going to get this thing rolling and running and then I can start on the race modifications! |
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Outatime
Samba Member
Joined: September 23, 2015
Posts: 88
Location: MI
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| Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2016 7:08 am Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build |
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Good plan. I worked on mine 7 days a week after work and every weekend this winter and spring. Two reasons, I wanted it done by May 1st. I knew if I started taking time off, it wouldn't get done for a long time. Many a days I had to force myself to work on it.
Set a goal and keep after it. Good luck with your build. It's worth it once you get it out to drive it and enjoy it. |
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Dark Earth
Samba Member
Joined: December 22, 2015
Posts: 1054
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| Posted: Fri Jun 10, 2016 9:08 am Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build |
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| BryceSegatto wrote: |
| I'm going to get this thing rolling and running and then I can start on the race modifications! |
I agree with you. It gets discouraging looking at a pile of parts. At least if you get it running, you could concentrate on particular parts of the car. You could get the front suspension the way you want it, for instance. Once you have enough money for the cage / rear suspension / transmission combo, you could do that all at once. Meanwhile you could be driving it.
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My Build: '69 Baja - Dark Earth Version
~I'm almost done. I just lack finishing up.~ |
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tobiism
Samba Member
Joined: January 21, 2004
Posts: 502
Location: Chandler AZ
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| Posted: Sun Apr 23, 2017 9:41 pm Post subject: Re: 1969 Baja build |
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| BryceSegatto wrote: |
| Guys I'm going to try to do whatever I can to get this thing rolling! I'm starting to lose interest so it needs to get together soon! Don't worry I am not going to get rid of the car, I'm knocking to be another one of those pages! I'm going to get this thing rolling and running and then I can start on the race modifications! |
Any updates here?
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"There has never been a genius without a hint of madness."
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