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36hp stroker build, need some guidance...
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Louis
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Joined: September 26, 2007
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Location: canada BC
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 1:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thats interesting, iam not looking to more HP than 65 to 70 range with what i have...
69.5 x83 with those carbs (pbic 32) will probably give me something like that (65hp)?
i would like to stay with those carbs because i have them and the linkage also.
those 40pbic would work withe the same linkage but they are way out of my league for price .

i really like the look of the p4011 (look beefy) but i read on the forum that they are not really good carbs and they are probably too big anyway.

69.5 x83 with those carbs will probably give me something like that (65hp)?

i still have so many questions, maybe someone would want to help to blue print my motor (tell me what to measure to get the right shim thickness etc..)

maybe i can post pictures of all the parts with the measurement and people can chip in for advice on what to do?
would that be possible? some sort of samba community engine project!

if you guys are into it let me know and ill start posting...
everybody can give their 2 cents and help me putting it together, lots of people could learn from this if we keep it all pictured and detailed...
would be fun.
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gimmesomeshelter
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello-

Crank - If you use a late 356B crank, you'll get a 74mm stroke (more torque), a cross drilled crank (better oiling), and you'll still be able to use 36HP bearings (less money).

P/Cs - As for the P/Cs, there's a set of Shasta Pre-A 80mm P/Cs for sale in the classifieds. Granted, they aren't cheap (~1100), they are very well made, and the pin height is almost perfect (27.1mm), so your shimming will be minimal.

Heads - Open up your heads and install larger valves.

Cam - Once you get your flow numbers, call up Dema Elgin, and he'll grind a cam for YOUR engine.

Push Rods - Install the BlackLine lifter inserts so you can use push rods that don't have the wood in the middle.

Cooler - If you're going to use an old cooler, send it to one of those aerospace grade cleaners. I think it costs $50-$60 to have an old cleaner cleaned.

Distributor - 019 for mild engine, 010 for hot engine. I've purchased one of each. Once I get everything jetted, I'll ship the one that works best with my engine to Glenn, and sell the other.

Filter - If you know what you're looking for, you can find a fulll flow canister filter (vintage looks and full flow, yeah!)

Magnaflux and balance your parts.

Good luck,

Paul
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Louis
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 10:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks bud !

how large for the valve?

crank- is a okrasa 69.5mm, found that crank few years ago for cheap so i would like to use it.

piston- are from 40hp 83mm big bore

cylinders- are 356 82.5 porsche that i would like to get bored for the 83mm pistons. do you think its doable to get .5 out of a cylinder?

carbs- are pbj 32 or pbic 32, i have a set of each.

distributor- was a 010 but i sold it because someone really needed it so i need to buy another one will see but seem like 010 is good enough.. gonna call Glenn for one.

cam- will call Dema for sure, what do i tell him to get the cam to my engine?

pushrod- was gonna buy them from blackline

filter- got a orange Fram, i remember seeing a fram for a Denzel that had full flow but this one is normal for Okrasa. the holes are a bit smaller.



now i am not too sure how to calculate and buy the bearings, i measure the crank journal and take that to the part store?

not sure how to calculate the spacer between the cylinders. do i just put the motor together and see how far the pistons get at TDC and calculate how far i needed them to be and that would be the spacer's thickness. now how do i know how close i want my piston to be from the head at TDC?

same for the rods, how long do i need them to be?

so if the stock bore is 64mm and my new crank is 69.5, thats 5.5mm longer, if i had stock cylinder would i get a 5.5mm spacer and 5.5mm longer pushrods? is this how it works?

thanks.. slowly getting somewhere...
confusing stuff when you never done it...
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splitpile
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 10:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Louis wrote:
Thanks bud !

how large for the valve?


piston- are from 40hp 83mm big bore

cylinders- are 356 82.5 porsche that i would like to get bored for the 83mm pistons. do you think its doable to get .5 out of a cylinder?


The base of the cylinder (spigot) will need to be machined down to around the same size as a 40hp big bore, the cylinders have more then enough meat to open up for 83's. You will eith have to machine the divets in the cylinders where the studs go or install case savers and us 8 mm studs, these should clear.
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Louis
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 17, 2010 11:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

anyone?



not sure how to calculate the spacer between the cylinders. do i just put the motor together and see how far the pistons get at TDC and calculate how far i needed them to be and that would be the spacer's thickness. now how do i know how close i want my piston to be from the head at TDC?

same for the rods, how long do i need them to be?

so if the stock bore is 64mm and my new crank is 69.5, thats 5.5mm longer, if i had stock cylinder would i get a 5.5mm spacer and 5.5mm longer pushrods? is this how it works?
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splitpile
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 17, 2010 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Louis wrote:
anyone?



not sure how to calculate the spacer between the cylinders. do i just put the motor together and see how far the pistons get at TDC and calculate how far i needed them to be and that would be the spacer's thickness. now how do i know how close i want my piston to be from the head at TDC?

same for the rods, how long do i need them to be?

so if the stock bore is 64mm and my new crank is 69.5, thats 5.5mm longer, if i had stock cylinder would i get a 5.5mm spacer and 5.5mm longer pushrods? is this how it works?


You need to CC your heads, measure the top of the piston from the top of the cylinder (with the cylinder bolted down), figure out what compression ratio you want and have a set of cylinder shims made and on and on
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