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Back to the drawing board.Need Engine advice for 40hp speed.
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue May 04, 2010 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure about the valve spring question, but counterweighted cranks in 40HP are very uncommon. It's a custom weld/grind/balance procedure.
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glandnut
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PostPosted: Tue May 04, 2010 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

glutamodo wrote:
Not sure about the valve spring question, but counterweighted cranks in 40HP are very uncommon. It's a custom weld/grind/balance procedure.


Hi ya'll!! I got one of them there fancy 40hp counterweighted NOS Berg thingys! Yeeeeeehawwwwww!
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yoger
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PostPosted: Tue May 04, 2010 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm no expert on the 40hp, But I'm learning. I'm buildin' a stroked 40, using a stock 69mm 1600 crank. The stock cranks are not CW. I had the local machine shop balance all the rotating componets for me. I had Todd at Rimco align bore,intall case inserts, bore the cam tunnel for brg inserts, and relieve the lifter bores. I know I was reading somewhere about the modern lifters. They have a thicker base, I think some of the 40's had thinner (lack of a better term) base. so if you use a latter lifter in the bore the base can contact the bore. I'm not saying thats what happened to you, , but I did read this, You can check with Todd at rimco. I'm sure he can shed more light on this. Like I said, He cut the bores for me. All I did was ask if he could do it and he knew what I was wanting. All of the above work at Rimco cost me $250 with the main brgs. He even machined the thrust on the brg itself to insure a nice tight fit. I can't wait to start assembling the Sweet 40. I'm also wanting to have larger valves installed and find (or build) a pair of intake manifolds. I have a great set of rebuilt 373' heads no miles, if you need some. Good luck, Tony.
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hsosa1
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PostPosted: Tue May 18, 2010 11:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yoger wrote:
I'm no expert on the 40hp, But I'm learning. I'm buildin' a stroked 40, using a stock 69mm 1600 crank. The stock cranks are not CW. I had the local machine shop balance all the rotating componets for me. I had Todd at Rimco align bore,intall case inserts, bore the cam tunnel for brg inserts, and relieve the lifter bores. I know I was reading somewhere about the modern lifters. They have a thicker base, I think some of the 40's had thinner (lack of a better term) base. so if you use a latter lifter in the bore the base can contact the bore. I'm not saying thats what happened to you, , but I did read this, You can check with Todd at rimco. I'm sure he can shed more light on this. Like I said, He cut the bores for me. All I did was ask if he could do it and he knew what I was wanting. All of the above work at Rimco cost me $250 with the main brgs. He even machined the thrust on the brg itself to insure a nice tight fit. I can't wait to start assembling the Sweet 40. I'm also wanting to have larger valves installed and find (or build) a pair of intake manifolds. I have a great set of rebuilt 373' heads no miles, if you need some. Good luck, Tony.
post pics of your case. My case looks ok hopefully it checks out otherwise I need another 40hp case..
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2010 3:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The engine in my 62 had one half of the case that was not clearanced for the thicker bores - but it was quite obvious when you ran it that something was wrong, sounded a bad rock knock, which is why I got the engine, previous builder eons ago heard that on initial startup and shelved the engine for "later" and never got back to redoing it. I clearanced it (only one side was below spec) and its been OK since... There was enough room for the thicker lifters, but only just. I'm not sure if any cases were even closer than mine was, but mine is a 1961 case from the thin-lifter era.

The only time I've seen a lifter bore that was truly busted on a 40HP was from a rod throw. I've got a picture somewhere I think buit it's not a very good one.

-Andy
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hsosa1
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PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2010 7:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

what does the machinest do when they relive the lifter bore? Also what is the advantage of counter weighting a 40hp crank is it even worth it? I see that the 36hp racers are counterweighting their crank . I assume more RPM ?
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2010 7:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Balancing alone helps, as VWs balance specs factory are not very good. Counterweighting... it would probably be best to send you to books and such instead of babbling, but it provides mass in a better place to offset the mass of the rods - so yes, higher RPM and smoother operation. and less pounding of the case, hopefully! I remember driving my Baja with a new 1600 and a counterweighted crank and being very surprised how much smoother it ran compared to my previous, poorly balanced engine that had died at 99K miles. I found myself a couple of times in 3rd gear on noisy dirt roads when I should have been in 4th gear - I didn't hear it and didn't feel it and didn't realize I'd forgotten to shift til I looked at my tach.

You just have to machine those lifter bores down til they have enough clearance per spec. What I did was get a cutoff wheel for a drill, or maybe it was a dremel, and just laid that disc flat on the top of the lifter boss and in slow circles just groud that millimeter or so I needed to do on all 4 of them. The factory had a cutter designed to do it:

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PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2010 3:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

glutamodo wrote:
Balancing alone helps, as VWs balance specs factory are not very good. Counterweighting... it would probably be best to send you to books and such instead of babbling, but it provides mass in a better place to offset the mass of the rods - so yes, higher RPM and smoother operation. and less pounding of the case, hopefully! I remember driving my Baja with a new 1600 and a counterweighted crank and being very surprised how much smoother it ran compared to my previous, poorly balanced engine that had died at 99K miles. I found myself a couple of times in 3rd gear on noisy dirt roads when I should have been in 4th gear - I didn't hear it and didn't feel it and didn't realize I'd forgotten to shift til I looked at my tach.

You just have to machine those lifter bores down til they have enough clearance per spec. What I did was get a cutoff wheel for a drill, or maybe it was a dremel, and just laid that disc flat on the top of the lifter boss and in slow circles just groud that millimeter or so I needed to do on all 4 of them. The factory had a cutter designed to do it:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
damm that is a great pic. Thanks for the pics. Can I u reuse the engine studs from my case? or should i get new ones?
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2010 3:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No need to replace any studs unless they have thread damage.
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WesleyGarrard
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 04, 2010 10:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thought I would add the final combo I am happy with on my engine. After much experimentation I have finally found a great combo.

1961 nos factory recycled engine with cam bearings
Engle 100 cam
Lightened lifters
NOS 64mm crank
NOS balanced connecting rods
Mahle Big Bore pistons. All within less than half a gram out of the box!
1300 373B heads
CB Performance Dual Solex Carb Kit
Mann Canister Filter
Porsche 912 style Breather/Filler
40HP Big Cap Distributor
Bosch Blue Coil
Bosch Plugs
Bugpack Header and Quietpack Muffler

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Everything has been aged to give it the 60's period look. Like the car was hopped up in the late 60's and cared for since. Believe it or not everything on the engine is new or restored, then aged. However, I don't like the muffler and I need some better lines for the filter. But for a 40hp it is quite the screamer. Plenty fast compared to what it did have.
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CLASSIC CAR GUY
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 10:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Im glad i was turned on to the post by WesleyGarrard , thanks man, anyway I have been gathering parts for my old school 1385cc project in my 64' T-1
Duel 30 pict carbs, Fram/Porsche bypass filter, correct big cap 64' dist. etc... the whole purpose when I got my 64 T-1 was to do a old school 40hp hot rod, all my other cars have 1600dp's in them.
The car currently has the orig motor in it, converted to 12v with a Porsche small style alt. that fits the 6v stand, trans is fine, clutch is good and the car runs like its new. currently i have put a header on the 1200 with a old school NOS Empi (of Riverside,not china!!!) Stinger' just like i have when I was 17 about 31yrs ago..lol Car has a 30/31 Solex dialed in and running perfect, 1 pump crack the key the motor turns about 1/2 a revolution and it starts, I swear to god if i put a rope on it i could pull start it like my dads old V4 75hp Evinrude and get it started in one pull like I did in the 70's..lol.

Dave Kline at Kline VW in San Diego is going to do the motor, engle 100 cam, cam bearings, late 1965 heads, 1.1.1 rockers, balanced assy. For starters im going to try a dialed in Bug Spray set up first, curious how it will perform, then switch over to the duel carbs and compare the two. I drove a 1385 last week with the same set up i described with the bug spray and it was a torky little bastard!! and the exhaust note on a old school 40 or 36hp has it own sound compared to a DP later motor, its just says VW out loud!!! Cool I keep you posted!!!
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WesleyGarrard
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 11:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

here is the other one we got goin'. It is a good 8 page read

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=308441&highlight=40hp
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