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jshaddvw
Samba Member
Joined: April 24, 2007
Posts: 265
Location: Lancaster Ohio
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 Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 8:09 pm Post subject: |
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| raygreenwood wrote: |
The temp bellows has absolutely nothing to do with overheating in a type 4 engine. It can flat out be taken off...and it will never overheat.
The flaps are spring loaded open.
Also....if you care to check, the oil cooler has its own always open "scoop" underneath the oil cooler flap. This is so even if for some crazy reason the flaps stayed closed....there is always a forced air supply for teh oil cooler.
Remove the cooling manifold and study how the flaps work.
If you don't have the sheet metal under teh cylinders you can overheat, if you don't have the two downdraft risers that flow from the bottom of teh cooling housing,,,you can overheat the heads.
Too much timing advance...overheat. Too lean of fuel mixture...over heat. Too little fuel presure...overheat. So many things too look for. Ray |
thanks for the advice. i have checked everything except fuel pressure and
downdraft risers. how do i go about checking fuel pressure, is there a tool that i could put in line with the fuel lines? and i am am very curious to know what a down draft riser is because as far as i can tell i have all cooling tins on the engine. does anyone have a pic or something that could show me what they look like just to make sure they are on there.
i also have another question. does anybody have a pic of vacuum line routing for this engine. it seems like there should be more lines because the air filter has a few open holes and i have no idea where they go. thanks again. |
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raygreenwood
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21521
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 10:57 am Post subject: |
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Sorry, forgot to get back to this. There should be forced air at some location that enters the heat exchangers. If that is leaking or not hooked up it will overheat the exchangers and the heads.
For real tuning you should invest in a good gauge. But a simple gauge to make sure its just getting the correct range of fuel pressure and no large fluctuations...you can get a 40 psi water pressure gauge, a 1/4 brass barbed nipple, some teflon tape, 2-3 feet of fuel line and two hose clamps and you will have everything you need for about $20. Ray |
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zerotofifty
Samba Member
Joined: December 27, 2003
Posts: 1583
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| Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 11:36 am Post subject: 914 |
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914's can run hot in summer. had probelm with mine when driven hard.
yes you must leave teh flaps in teh tin, they direct the air correctly in both warm up and full cooling positions, remove them adn the air flow is not optimal. LEAVE THEM IN PLACE!!!!!
ther can be lots of things, draging brakes, mixture, timing etc.... you got a smog car so you may have air pump, and catalyst issues
all the engine bay rubber seals must be in place also.
on my 914 all that stuff was right and it still gets hot on warm days pulling up a hill at speed (yes my gage was calibrated with a thermal couple in the pan)
I have been told that these may need an extra oil cooler. you dont know what teh compression ratio is if it has been rebuilt by unknown person and that may be it.
yes the fan belt only drive the alternator, not an issue here.
if the above things dont fix it, consider an under rear trunk fan cooled oil cooler add on
good lcuk |
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