Are these two issues related?

[Blanco_Bug72]

Okay so new problems with the '72 super. Two days ago the thing ran fine. Didn't do anything with the carb. The only thing we have done to my son's beetle is adjust the clutch. Now it won't idle and dies after it warms up if you keep on the gas.

As to another problem. He is seeing a gas leak coming from the line that leads to the evaporative cannister located in the passenger side wheel well. It is actually a puddle. It is not consistent but enough to be of a concern.

Not sure if any of this is something that I did. In the last six months we have swapped out the generator for an alternator and put in a new clutch. I have give a thanks to the Air Force for this one. Our use of the auto hobby shop allowed us to get this done in a few hours; I never thought I would be able to pull and engine, change out a clutch and throw-out bearing and reinstall in a day let along the time it took us.

Anyways, ....how should I address these two issues. Are they related?

[ashman40]

I read that you remove the engine to replace the clutch, pressure plate and TO bearing. Within the last 2 days you adjusted the clutch by adjusting the wing nut on the left side of the transmission. After you reinstalled the engine it was running fine, up until 2 days ago when you adjusted the clutch. Is this correct?

My first thought since you removed and replaced the engine is to check the idle cutoff solenoid on the side of the carb. When power is cut to this solenoid (ignition switch turned OFF) the solenoid blocks the flow of air-fuel to the idle circuit. When the ignition coil is powered up the solenoid is energized and it allows air-fuel to flow thru the idle circuit. Its function is to force the engine to shut down when the ignition switch is turned OFF. It sounds sort of silly, but the later engines were designed to idle so lean that the engine could still run even after the ignition was turned OFF. The idle cutoff solenoid was to make sure it didn't.
The problem is if power to the solenoid is lost (loose wire) or the solenoid internally fails the solenoid plunger will close off the idle circuit even when the ignition is ON. The simple test for this is to turn the ignition ON and remove the solenoid wire from the ignition coil #15 (+) terminal. Momentarily touch the end of the wire to the terminal and listen/feel for the solenoid to click indicating it is functioning.

While the engine is warming up and the carb is running on the choke the extra fuel provided by the active choke masks the failed cutoff solenoid.


The other thing to check for is a vacuum leak. Anything that allows unregulated air to flow into the intake will cause the idle mixture to go lean. The choke will again mask this problem until the choke turns OFF. Look for loose or cracked rubber hoses and rubber caps on the carb. Also, spray carb cleaner around seals between the carb and the heads while the engine is (fast) idling. When you hit a leak with carb cleaner it will momentarily seal the leak or flood cleaner into the intake. This will cause the engine rpms to change. Any change indicates a leak that the carb cleaner is impacting. Depending on how old your carb is, a common leak point is the bore that the throttle shaft rides thru. Spray the outer ends of the bore where the throttle shaft enters the carb body. If this is leaking a rebuild of the carb by adding new bushings into the carb shaft bores will seal them up.
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AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}