Looking For Torque for Front Axle Clamp Nut

[mikewire]

Re-birthing this thread for a couple of questions on technique.

I've got new bearings and races installed on the front, and I used my magnetic based dial indicator on the stub axle, just like it shows in the Bentley.

I first threaded and torqued the clamp nut to 9 ft/lbs, then used the dial indicator and loosened the clamp nut until I had .004(ish) axial play, measured by pulling straight out, then straight in on the wheel (like when checking crank end-play).

When I tighten the clamp nut screw, the axial play is almost all taken out, really not measurable. Wheel rotates very nicely, very smooth, no drag...I can feel just the smallest hint of axial play, but it's not measurable.

So the real question I'm looking to verify is do I want .001-.005 axial play with the clamp nut screw tight?

Seems to me I've done it correctly according to the Bentley, I have...but I'm wondering what others have done.
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-Mike

@countdowngarage
@bigskyeuro

1972 VW Kombi 9 Passenger Deluxe w/ 2.0L F.I. VWAC swap
1965 VW Beetle Deluxe Bahama Blue

[Wildthings]

Tighten the lock screw down until you need a bit of force on a Crescent wrench or Vice-grips to turn the adjusting nut. This way the adjustment will not change during the final tightening of the lock screw.

[mikewire]

[Wildthings]

[mikewire]

[Abscate]

That “ just perceptible “ end play is 0.001 inches + 0.001 inch and -0.000 inches. Play


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[kreemoweet]

The axial play spec is what is supposed to be AFTER the clamp nut is tightened.
It's the play you are supposed to have at any time, without messing with the adjustment.
So just leave the clamp nut backed off a tad until you get the correct axial play after it's tightened.
Your clamp nut may be distorted or there's something wrong with your special thrust washer or something.
I never had any change in play after tightening it on my bus wheels.
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[airschooled]

[mikewire]

[SGKent]

the reason you torque it first is to force the grease out and make sure it seats. I would gently rotate the wheel while it is torqued. Then back it off to your desired end play and lightly tighten the clamping nut. Spin the wheel a little and then measure it. If you need more then loosen the nut and try again. If it is too loose then tighten it. Once you are done, spin the wheel a couple times and check it again. Do it with the tire on. You will have more to grab onto than a rotor.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[mikewire]

[Wildthings]

The procedure VW gives for setting the bearing endplay for a Vanagon works well on a Bay or Type 1 as well. You just want to be able to easily move the washer with a screwdriver once the nut is locked down, but still have a slight drag to the washer. Note that the washers may not be consistently flat, which will make it hard to accurately set the endplay by either using a dial indicator or the Vanagon method. I will check for wobble once the weight is back on the tires and tweak the adjustment as needed to bring the wobble down and then check the temperature of the bearings after a 10 mile road run without much use of the brakes. If the bearing hub is much above ambient then I back the bearing off a tad and try again.