Heater box foam, resistor, lube port and additional mods

[Bulli Klinik]

Hello Friends,

I'm at the midway point in my Westy resto and it's time to take care of all the little details under the dash. I removed and disassembled the heater distribution box. I have the box all cleaned up and my plan is to repair the broken mounting flanges as well as replace all the foam. What, based on real experience is the best foam, or substitute material for sealing the flaps as well as the heater core and the blower motor?

I've read about replacing the resistor with a Jeep unit. What is the preferred part to do this modification?

Mullendor port: Are folks running a tube from behind the grille to the blower motor bearing in order to service the bearing?

I've read of shut-off valves and the like...Are there any other mods or suggestions while I have this thing on the bench?

Though the heater core appears dry, any suggestions on pressure testing before it goes back in? I was considering smearing a layer of Yamabond or something similar at the crimped joints.

The heater core had a restrictor plate behind it. A plate with a bunch of perforations. What's this for and should it go back in? I'm sure they put it in there for a reason.

Are there any other mods in general while I have this thing blown apart?

Thanks in advance for your expertise.

_________________
I've never met a Bus I didn't like.
Mike K
Bulli Klinik
Colorado Springs

[VicVan]

Jeep resistor:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=623382&highlight=jeep+resistor

Grease cap for the blower motor (scroll to second half of page):
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...p;start=20
I put a hose that goes from the bottle cap to the winsdhield vent, inside the air duct. No need for a Mullendore port.
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'90 Little Blue Truck, 2WD auto, FAS GenV 2.0 NA (AVH)

[IdahoDoug]

It's been years, but look for a post/thread where I identified the foam I used. I also have a HUGE restoration thread and it may be buried in there.

You want very soft foam as the closure flaps don't contact the full face when they shut - they must deal with the hinge side touching first and then the rest. If the foam is too firm, you won't get a good seal as it will have a gap from the foam that first touches resisting full closure. That's what I recall.

Yes - heater valve shutoff is great for summer. I used a Home Depot ball valve, and shortened the handle with a hacksaw. You'll want to put all the underdash trim in position so you see exactly where the valve will need to go so no handle interference and so you can simply reach down while driving and open/shut it.

I left my restricter in there. That was no accident. The engineers may have found too much dash flow/not enough flow elsewhere in the vehicle and that fixed it. That's a normal "tuning" item you will find throughout a vehicle of the day before they had CAD and other design refinement capability.

I also did the Jeep resister and it worked great. At the end of this work, my heater went from a gerbil breathing on me, to a hurricane of heat, so it's worth doing.
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[shagginwagon83]

GoWesty has a heater box reseal kit - https://gowesty.com/products/heater-box-foam-kit

I did the Jeep resistor mod and it has held up great, but on next dash pull I am considering converting to a PWM setup to dial in exactly speed I want.
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Brandon
"Jo Ann" - '83.5 Westfalia EJ22e w/Peloquin
Instagram @joannthevan

[jimf909]

I've used the Vanistan heater shut-off valve for nearly a year and recommend it.

- So far, it completely shuts off any hot water to the heater core and only cool air comes in. This was a big improvement over the worn stock valve.
- It's controlled with the stock hot/cold lever.
- The auto-bleeding function seems to work but I haven't replaced the coolant to create any problems.
https://intrepidoverland.com/shop/t3-vanagon-front-heater-valve/

Technically, it's not under the dash but the cable does run through the dash so now is a good time to install a Vanistan are control kit which does a nice job of blocking hot outside air from the cool inside if the van has AC.
https://intrepidoverland.com/shop/cabin-air-control/

A few years ago I added a busbar for various hot wires (always hot, key in hot, key on hot, dash lights hot, ground) to clean up some wiring and make it easier to hook up new things like footwell lights, etc. I haven't used it for too many things but this gets me away from wiring mess around the steering wheel and fusebox. Others have put an additional fusebox behind the glovebox along with headlight relays, etc. to migrate away from the congested driver's side wiring.

FWIW, YMMV.
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- Jim

[jimf909]

[mtnhome]

I have one of the Dorman Jeep resistors that I bought but didn't use. You're welcome to it and I may be in COS on Friday. Happy to drop it off.
I ended up going with a PWM controller.
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'84 Westy, '93 Subaru ej22 and Subarugears 5speed
Build thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=763098&highlight=

[MsTaboo]

Big double thumbs up for the Intrepid fresh air flap and coolant shutoff valve.
Both are well thought out solutions to a poor VW design.
I used to have a ball valve shutoff plumbed into the heater line but removed it in favor of the much better Intrepid device which is incorporated into the stock heater controls.
https://intrepidoverland.com/shop/t3-vanagon-front-heater-valve/
https://intrepidoverland.com/shop/cabin-air-control/
Between both I now have great control over fresh air inlet/heat. As a bonus the air flap shutoff prevents dust getting into the cabin while following another vehicle on dusty roads, or fumes from diesel trucks.

When I had my dash out I completely stripped down the heater box and replaced every bit of foam.

When reassembly be sure to seal the box with caulking, clips alone are not enough to replace the plastic welds that get cut.

On the perforated plate that sits in front of the heater core, I kept that (figured the engineers knew what they were doing and why it was needed)-(some speculation that the plate blocks some airflow to prevent the core giving up too much heat from the heater circuit). I did add a couple extra rows of holes to increase heat throughput because I removed the rear cabin heater in our Westy (extra space under seat for storage) and wanted to get the most from the front. Works great - lots of heat!
You can see the pattern of airflow through the plate by the dark staining on the heater core. I added two rows of holes to the main group.

Core was in great condition but I did gently clean and flush.

When I put the heater box back in I made sure to get a really good seal between the box and the body. You can see in this picture how much dust was getting past the original seals:

Took me a couple tries of mounting the box and pulling again as I added extra foam until I was satisfied I had a good seal.

Didn't bother with trying to add a tube for blower motor, but did lube the shaft and glued a plastic cap over the bearing. I reused my original resister as it was in good condition and working fine. Added metal tape as heat protection for the plastic (no idea whether this was a good mod, but what the heck!)

Of course while the dash is out nows the time to lube the windshield wipers and replace the washer water hoses, clean the ground trees, and add some sound deadening. Clean up the wiring.

All nice and spiffy now .

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Currently:
'90 Syncro Westy 3 knob w/Zetec

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[Bulli Klinik]

[Bulli Klinik]

Guys, thanks for all the thoughtful, experience based replies. I was debating the Vanistan stuff, but you sold me. I want to do this rebuild correctly and once.

My fan seems to turn smoothly, though I'll be sure to bench test everything while it's out and add the lube port.

I planned on running an additional fuse box, but I hadn't thought about where to put it. Seems like now is a good time to add that to the mix as well as a thorough cleaning and tidying up the ground trees.

I was thinking of adding some holes to the restrictor. Maybe just an extra row or two as mentioned.

I'll report back as I make some progress. If you think of any more ideas, please post up.
_________________
I've never met a Bus I didn't like.
Mike K
Bulli Klinik
Colorado Springs

[Bulli Klinik]

One more thing. While I'm at it, I plan on replacing the windshield squirters. Any advice with regards to a better unit. I remember there being talk of alternatives to the stock items.
_________________
I've never met a Bus I didn't like.
Mike K
Bulli Klinik
Colorado Springs

[VicVan]

T3 technique sells some upgraded spray nozzles I believe
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'90 Little Blue Truck, 2WD auto, FAS GenV 2.0 NA (AVH)

[hardway]

For foam I used foam backed headliner material that I bought at JoAnn fabrics. I am pretty sure that I got the idea from Dave in his heater box overhaul thread. I like how it works, thin and pliable.

[DuncanS]

[Bulli Klinik]

I've been slowly plugging away at the heater box project. I decided to use felt in place of the deteriorated foam and it seems to be work great. All the flaps are re-sealed.

I also did some repairs to the broken mounting ears using Q-bond.

An issue I'm having is that I can't remember where these flaps go.

Maybe someone can point it out on these pictures.

And thanks to Mtn. Home for dropping off the resistor, though now I'm considering a PWM controller, like he has. Great guy, great Bus. I just want to do this once.
_________________
I've never met a Bus I didn't like.
Mike K
Bulli Klinik
Colorado Springs

[Bulli Klinik]

Another thing while I'm thinking about it. Is anyone using a PWM on their wiper motor?

I saw this while digging around and thought it might be a good idea to install two.

https://www.amazon.com/Controller-Stepless-Brushed...mp;sr=1-11
_________________
I've never met a Bus I didn't like.
Mike K
Bulli Klinik
Colorado Springs

[mtnhome]

If you go with a PWM, I would try to get one with at least 20khz or higher frequency. The one I used is 15khz and it does generate an audible noise at the higher fan settings. Should have paid more attention to this thread. https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=490528&highlight=pwm+blower. I’m planning to replace it if/when I pull the dash again. I didn’t mount it where it’s accessible without dash removal but will plan on mounting behind glove box. I was swapping the heater box in Vanis13’s backyard Vanagon refuge and was in a hurry. Tori my old damaged hearing doesn’t notice the noise when I’m driving.

Glad I got to meet Bulli Klinik, his work is amazing. I probably spent more time drooling over the Porsche 356 he was restoring than anything.
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'84 Westy, '93 Subaru ej22 and Subarugears 5speed
Build thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=763098&highlight=

[Italjohn]

Here is a short test I did with my new fan and controller.

Link to PWM controller: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DCehVAT


Link

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