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Connection to the motor
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70bus Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 21, 2024 12:38 pm    Post subject: Re: Connection to the motor Reply with quote

These
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probably need to be 60cm on the motor side; could be smaller on truck side.

This air cleaner
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does not use this mount
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nor this one
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it uses this
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Like so:
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Good thread on air cleaners BTW
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

I also have a 1600-style motor in a split, and piecing the tin together can be interesting. It helps to have a big pile of parts you can mix and match!
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 21, 2024 1:11 pm    Post subject: Re: Connection to the motor Reply with quote

Deen Rechner wrote:

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I can´t connect this blue pipes with the engine. They are to small.
What do you use?


There should be metal flexible tubes that connect to the blue pipes. The tubes then connect to the output from the heat exchangers. Yours looks to be an early bus, so the tubes are probably 50mm inside diameter, which fitted on the heat exchangers that were on the original early engine.

You have a later engine with bigger heat exchangers. The output from your heat exchangers should be 60mm outside diameter, so the tubes won't fit without an adaptor.

If you don't have the flexible metal tubes, you could replace them with later plastic ones. I think there is a plastic flexible tube that reduces from 60mm to 50mm which you could use.

I had the metal tubes and I didn't want to replace them, so I had 50mm to 60mm adaptors made by a custom exhaust manufacturer via ebay. They fit on to the output of the heat exhanger.

The specifications were - 60mm inside diameter to 50mm outside diameter, with the wide ends 25mm long and the narrow ends 50mm long.

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- 60mm inside diameter to 50mm outside diameter, with the wide ends 25mm long and the narrow ends 50mm long
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Looking for info on my truck's history. Are you from Campbell California or nearby. Do you recognise it? ... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=636786
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2024 10:23 pm    Post subject: Re: Connection to the motor Reply with quote

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Number 10 what model do I need. How many holes must it have?

Do I need number 16?
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2024 12:37 am    Post subject: Re: Connection to the motor Reply with quote

Deen Rechner wrote:
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Number 10 what model do I need. How many holes must it have?

Do I need number 16?


Both tins in your picture look like they would fit.

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Which one you choose depends on

a/. the shape of the part #11 you have, and
b/. whether you intend to have the carburettor pre-heating connected to the air cleaner

#16 pics up warm air from under the tinware. It connects via a hose to the air cleaner.
The air cleaner sucks the warm air up, so the carburettor gets warmer air, preheated by the engine. This helps prevent the intake manifold and carburettor freezing in cold and mild weather.

a/. If you can see gaps between #10 and #11, then the tinware does not match. You can either swap #10 or #11 to find a pair that join without gaps, but the preferred option will depend on whether you want to have carburettor pre-heating, which also answers your question about the extra hole in #10....

b/. The number of holes depends on whether you want to connect up the carburettor preheat. If you do; then you need a #11 that has the extra small hole on one side (or both sides), and #16.
In your picture that I've pasted above, the top #11 that you currently have has an extra small hole on the left side (it is upside down in your picture, so it appears on the right in that picture). That one uses a different #16 that fits on the left side of the engine, below that hole.
VW made #10 with the extra small hole on the left, or the right, or both sides. If you choose one with the extra small hole on both sides (two extra holes), then you can use a rubber blanking plug to close off the hole that you don't use. That option allows you to have the #16 that goes on the left, or the right.
And... there are different types of#16 with different diameters (VW fitted a larger #16 in later years).
If you want to have carburettor pre-heating, then you need:-
an air cleaner with the spigot to attach the hose to,
a #16 the same diameter as the spigot on the air cleaner
a hose the same diameter
a #10 that has a hole the correct diameter and,
a #11 that joins with the #10 without leaving gaps

VW changed the tinware whenever they changed the engine, and to improve cooling and pre-heating, so there are lots of pieces that look the same, but are subtly different. It can be difficult to find matching sets because you need several pieces to check they all fit together.

These threads may help explain further: -

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7966667#7966667
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=338714&start=0

Also; if your bus was built before 1959, the original bolt-on rear valance panel will not fit any of the #10 tinware that fits your engine.
The original engine was physically smaller and had completely different tinware. The original rear valance panel has a shallower curve than your #10 tins, so leaves a gap .
If you still have the original rear valance, you'll either need to make an adaptor to fill the gap, or replace the rear valance with a valance that fits a 1959 or later 'church key' engine lid.
After 1959 the factory-fitted engines used #10 tinware that has the same curve as the type you're using, so the rear valance panel will fit without gaps without modification.
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Looking for info on my truck's history. Are you from Campbell California or nearby. Do you recognise it? ... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=636786
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2024 12:39 pm    Post subject: Re: Connection to the motor Reply with quote

There are differenz carburettor preheat for sale.

I need one on the passenger side.

How it is connected? Does someone have photos of it?
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2024 1:03 pm    Post subject: Re: Connection to the motor Reply with quote

I do not know if it is correct, but this is similar to what I bought from my local shop
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2301297

However, for now, I simply took the small corrugated preheat hose, put it through the rear tin, and angled it towards the cylinder heads.
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When I pull the motor for 300 mile checkup, I will also be putting the 'correct' tin on (as much as possible on a 1600 in a 65) so this thread is valuable.
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2024 1:26 pm    Post subject: Re: Connection to the motor Reply with quote

70bus wrote:

This air cleaner
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Can you tell me more about this air filter. Do you have a more pictures? It looks like there are parts there from a couple of different filters. How does it go together.

I have a very similar one but without the preheat, being a bus from South Africa. I’m looking to add preheat as I think it would help given the bus is now in the UK

TIA
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2024 2:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Connection to the motor Reply with quote

My truck also came with a heavy duty air cleaner (slightly different than a 'cyclone,' which dumps the dirt overboard thrugh a hole in tin), although it seems to have been added rather than factory. And I also live in a cooler climate now, so swapped it out for a stock setup, visible in that pic above. There are a number of ways to get preheat

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/foru/viewtopic.php?p=9218269#9218269

I don't have the outlet on my heaterboxes, so mocked up something similar to stock for 65; I'll add the metal tube later. Depending on your tin, you could put the preheat on left or right

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Lots of info and pics scattered throughout this thread
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4278168&highlight=dusty#4278168

The air cleaner pictured above in this thread seems to be from a thing, type 181, and here are details on that.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=672039&highlight=air+cleaner

Mine has a 211 part number, and no preheat, possibly same as yours?
You COULD put preheat in these 'heavy duty' or 'cyclone' air cleaners, but it involves cutting a hole, so I will just swap out the whole shebang, mount and all, in warmer months if I want to use it. Otherwsie, stock.
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2024 2:55 pm    Post subject: Re: Connection to the motor Reply with quote

Cheers for the links. I had already been through the first one but did not see this filter. Being for a thing might explain it.

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This is mine and the Thing one seems a good match. I’m looking for a neat install and thinking of taking the preheat off the RHS heater box.
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2024 3:07 pm    Post subject: Re: Connection to the motor Reply with quote

Not a Thing cleaner, 211 129 612 E.

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Bays used similar ones and I think the difference was in shape of bottom... one rounded, one flat? SOMEwhere in that thread I think! But I suspect you could mix and match brackets, bowls, etc to a point. Brackets esp seem variable.

Looking at mine, the one in the box might be later; mine is stamped 211129611b and is dated 6/65, I think the straps came with it when I bought the can from Lind decades age (maybe he remembers!) and is dated 12/65. The large and small angled brackets were in my truck when I got it, loose; not original but the holes in engine bay were there for them. No markings on either. So maybe 612E is for bays. There’s also Beetle ones!

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Aaaaannnnndddd looking at these pics I just realized my unit is for the LEFT side, so couldn’t use in my truck as the mount was on right. Lol.
EDIT: looking at pics, it looks to be ok for right side; I was assuming you wouldn't be pointing the intake over the fan inlet, but apparently so...
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2024 6:15 pm    Post subject: Re: Connection to the motor Reply with quote

Deen Rechner wrote:
[im

...

Picture 22

211 711 705 CHOKE CABLE/FUEL RESERVE CABLE, Oct'52-1961 Bug and 1952 (1952 Bus, starting at chassis # 20-041712) -1961 Bus (1961 Bus through chassis # 614455), includes sleeve and knurled nut, also functions as fuel reserve lever cable through 1967 Bus
211 711 725 rubber/boot

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Why are there two arms? I use the smaler one, for sure.
But what is the use of the other one?



looks like you have a wingnut on the clutch cable, you are good there.
tip: lightly grease the threads, so it is easy to adjust.

These buses works without the grommets, but it is better to have them to keep the road dirt out of the tubes.

The moving arm for the fuel tap is for the cable, I think you are missing the cotter pin to keep the arm from falling off
the non moving arm is for the clamp to hold the sleeve of the cable.
You use both.

I strongly suggest getting this working properly before installing the motor.
You do have to attach the cable so the tap moves the right amount, which may take a few tries, easier facing it, that gas above you.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2024 9:32 pm    Post subject: Re: Connection to the motor Reply with quote

If you have lost the little clamp that holds the cable to the reserve bracket, simply use half of a side-mirror clamp; repros are a few bucks at any parts supplier.
EG: https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=211857545
Worked a treat on mine; even has more clamping area. OG reserve part at top:


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Thu May 09, 2024 2:47 am    Post subject: Re: Connection to the motor Reply with quote

... removing the engine again...The rims no longer fit into the rear wheel arch

...maybe removing the gear box again...


The rims no longer fit into the rear wheel arch

Is it possible that the dimensions have changed during the assembly of the gearbox?

Is it possible that the dimensions have changed during the assembly of the gearbox?

Mine is a 1959, maybe after 1963 have other dimensions.
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