1970 Fastback "sympathetic restoration"

[DariuszPlich]

Very good job

[Bobnotch]

[akokarski]

Thanks guys!

wait till you see the pics after I shot it with gloss black, it's no show queen

I started painting the tins, need another coat on the back sides and should be ready for install. Hopefully it will hold up, original factory paint is really tough and I even had hesitations on stripping it, but at least now I can compare how it will hold up and whether or not I would powder coat in the future instead.

Anton

[akokarski]

alright so I finished painting the tins and oil pump cover. Got the pump buttoned up with fittings, and it looks like I need more clearance for the 45. Then i got the return plugged in and the angle which was similar to what Max had in his full flow was really bothering me. I put on the heat exchangers and cylinder tin, sure enough it will be really hard to negotiate the path down.

i think my issue is that the fittings are pretty bulky, and my hose is a lot thicker. I am going to order another 90 and 45 along with a firebraid sleeve. Then grind my tap down and retap the fittings again. Maybe I can even shorten the hose adapter.

Another thing i am starting to lean toward is to go for bust and not break the engine in out of the car just install. The carbs situation is kinda a project in itself to just set them up for breaking in. I had to options rebuilding a set of PDSIT, i thought that I had everything for them, but after reading and searching I accidentally unearthed my old thread on this topic only to rediscover that I it's a mismatched set with 6v parts on it. The other option is to clean up a brand new ICT set but I don't have the right linkage, so I think we will be breaking in the car.

I should be getting some gray exhaust paint for new muffler. so a few more pieces to spray (besides the intake runners) and should be on the final stretch of assembly.

One more thing, found these https://belmetric.com/hollow-gasket-sealing-ring-copper-2-5mm/?sku=GCA36X42X2.5 seems like the right size for the muffler to 4 and 2 heat exchanger gaskets.

Cheers!
Anton

[akokarski]

New fittings came in, I just used another 45 to go down for return

Seems to be better oriented. I am still waiting on firebraid sleeve though.

Meanwhile I am disassembling and painting few other pieces…

I want to flange my heater boxes and muffler. I do have an assortment of flanges and wondering if I should cut off the flares on the muffler or weld the flange to a flare?

[akokarski]

Been making a a little progress. I’ve cleaned up heater boxes and flanged muffler. Empi thick flanges are way better than some old stuff I had.

. They are not perfectly flat but cleaned up nicely.

They were a bit loose but I was able to use a ballpin hammer to flare the pipe inside the flange.

Unfortunately I ran out of gas on my tig and had to finish with mig. Once I get a refill I’ll tig braze the outside the flange. There is also some rust repair on the heater box jacket that’s in order.

Besides the exhaust work I finally finished up cleaning the oil cooler. Lotsa boiling in the ultrasonic cleaner and acetone baths followed my cleaning at a radiator shop and more baths at home to be sure there is nothing left behind.

I also, finally got the breather cleaned up after I’ve destroyed the pedestal with internal pipe wrench. Now I am waiting for oil hose that goes between breather and filler. ISP west one was 14mm and it’s actually 18mm.

One thing I have not figured out yet is what to do with a missing spring on the cooling flap

Because it’s so floppy lever is binding on closing. Maybe I can fit a copper spacer but I don’t think this lever comes apart.

Here is my solution for bushing replacement

I’ve posted it in a different thread

[akokarski]

today I wanted to tackle my flaps binding issue and remake oil cooler block off plate as the one I made didn't quite close the opening...

Opening is fine, but when closing the rod would hang up on the window.

This didn't sit right with me as I didn't want to end up with one flap jammed opened and another closed or some other unpleasant situation.

On the second examination with glasses off (I think it's time to get some reading glasses) did find that rod is capped with a circlip

the most suitable thing that I could find were tips from mig welder. One of them was spent and another brand new didn't even fit right.

In the first one I promptly snapped my drill bit and used the second tip. Those snazzy drill bits with hex will break, round ones at least have a chance to spin in the chuck if drill gets stuck...
I think I ended up with something like 3/16 it's fairly loose fit

I didn't drill all the way through so that I can hold this sleeve in the vise without crushing it while finishing the end and cutting it to size.

A few minutes of licking with a file on the drill chuck and we have something presentable

I cut it off with a hack saw and ended up a burr. Since there is no way to hold this thing, I stuck the butt end of the drill into the vice and let it stick out the top so I can put the spacer on and file the end

after all is done it went back together

it is a loose fit but we don't want anything binding up.

Then I made a new oil cooler block off plate.
here is the fully templated original, I pulled it off an actual part and there are a lot of dimensions. most are useless if you are making it yourself.

One piece that I made didn't quite cover the openings so I wanted to make a wider one. The important dimensions are outside, hole positions, two cuts and a bend line.

I mocked up the oil cooler, tin and the plate that I already had

Marked on the case the openings of the tin.

we are about 5mm too short on each side so I went to full 100mm in width

here we are all laid out and adjusted for width

I wanted to make sure that holes are correct, the dimensions that I had were a bit off and holes were not lining up with the case. Holes are 40mm on center...

lines up correctly.

drilled and cut the opening, note that I am not making a window like original, because it's a sheered and stamped part so if you are trying to cut a window then you will lose some material and also it's impossible to cut that tiny window anyway.. if you want to do something like that, you would need to make it out of two pieces and weld them.

after making this for the 2rd time, I figured that I would cut it to size after bending it first, so that I would have more material to clamp to.

I've used a square block and body hammer to fold it. Then tuned it up in the vise on the same block.

here is the result after deburring and rounding the corners

on the inside you can see that there is a good overlap

Cheers!
Anton

[akokarski]

Small update while I am waiting for more parts.

I figured I can mount the oil cooler now.

Seal kit comes with 6 orange donuts and thin profile with wide hole is the one for late model

I got some help from masking take to hold the block off plate

Here it is tightened down, more tape to keep the nuts from dropping between the cylinders

This is what it looks all finished up from under the cylinder tin

[Bobnotch]

I've found if you use the thin seals with the 10mm hole in it you don't use the spacer, as it doesn't squish the seal enough and leaks oil. I think there's an oil cooler and seal combo thread on here and it's even called out in it too. Might be worth having a look for it and going thru it as well. Lots of good info in that thread.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120

[akokarski]

Thanks Bob! Yeah i search and found a few references. Seemed like there was a decent amount of compression on the seals but I will go and pull them out.

I can stick a camera through the pressure sender boss to see if they get over too squished and the 10mm hole gets smaller without spacers.


Cheers!
Anton

[akokarski]

moved the spacer washers to the top, doubled checked with bore scope and seals on the inside looked good, here is a shot from outside.

I want to try to use a oil pressure gauge to make sure there is nothing funny going on with clearances as I break in the engine and do that I bought (10years ago) isp adapter.

this is is how far it screws in before i get resistance, looks pretty tall to me and doesn't engage as much as the sender. I measured threads and there is taper but it starts as big as the widest end of the sender and gets .015" wider than the sender so if I were to use it I think i will be opening the cooler's port quite a bit and will not be able to run stock switch later on.

does anybody have an experience with this adapter?


Thanks!
Anton

[Bobnotch]

I wonder if your brass fitting has metric threads on it. You need M10 by 1.0 threads for the oil cooler fitting side. I think they're straight non taper threads too. Just a thought, as that might be why it doesn't screw in very much. I hope this helps.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120

[KTPhil]

I use that ISP manifold, though I do not remember what fitting I used to the oil cooler. I run both the stock switch and the gauge sender.
_________________
Current Fleet:
'71 Fastback
'69 Westfalia
Retired:
'67 Beetle
'65 Beetle (x2)
'65 Bus
'71 Squareback

[akokarski]

After more searching and looking for thread size it appears that there is another thread that is kind of close to 10mx1. I compared the switch with adapter and it wasn’t quite matching, so my suspicion is that adapter thread is not metric.

Maybe I should call cb and see what their adapter has but it’s different configuration.

[KTPhil]

Also check tapered vs non-tapered.
Unfortunately, a lot of vendors sell one as a replacement for the other.
_________________
Current Fleet:
'71 Fastback
'69 Westfalia
Retired:
'67 Beetle
'65 Beetle (x2)
'65 Bus
'71 Squareback

[akokarski]

yeah that's a perfect 1/8npt pipe thread match.

well we will not be using that... All of the threads on mine are NTP. Their new version has ntp and metric ports but the male business end of the deal is still NPT! so i guess if you do use it, you will not be going back to metric switch or sender as your threads will be buggered. I guess it's possible to replace the oil cooler but case not so much....

[akokarski]

closer...

after a few hours at Kelly Park got home and got a few more things buttoned up. Oil hose from bellmetric showed up early so I was able to do this.

Cut to size, had to use dremel with cut off wheel. it's still reinforced piece and it worked beatifully!

I also got a pair of clamps

cooler got a new sweater.

I assembled 1/2 side and realized I left the spring on the bench, so had to redo 1/2 tins and it's the most stubborn side!

Then I realized that I left the woodruff key off the crank so had to pull of shroud again but luckly you can get to the barrel nut through the side, so i didn't have to take it apart for the 3rd time

this thing stumped me a bit, I couldn't figure out which side it is supposed to be, then picked up the other tube, got it installed on 3/4 side and realized that this one needs some tuning. No clue how the bracket got unwound like that. I will need to tune it up a bit to get it to fit.

Now I just need to patch and paint my heater boxes, swap the intake and the rest, mount fly wheel and swap the engine.

even got my intake gaskets ready, well almost. I still need to treat them with gasgacinch or curil k2.

[Tram]

An old Mercedes workshop trick is to soak your gaskets in ATF for 15-20 mins then blot them off. This swells the fibers for a good seal. Aircraft sealant or Gasgacinch can eventually wash away or get sucked in over time.
_________________
Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.

[akokarski]

Hm I thought that sealant was needed to get them to stick to phenolic spacers. Okay I’ll try to find some atf when I do the swap.


That last tube is actually just fine, the offsets are all different between 1/2 and 3/4 sides.

[Tram]