2003 Eurovan MV VR6 24V manual swap notes

[T3DoKaSy16"]

[EuroTec]

So more "notes"...

I've come up with a new version of the transmission emulator that uses the same 7 solenoids and ribbon cable that are in the valve body of the 01P/01M. It's a much nicer package it's all inside a fully enclosed box.

A couple customers had codes coming back for solenoids 4 & 6. These two solenoids measure about 6 ohms. The relays are around 80. This new kit solves that issue.

While I was at it I decided to explore the possibility of making a jumper for the multi-function switch that makes the TCU "think" it's in Park or Neutral so that the starter will work without having to rewire anything.
HOWEVER, there's a problem with this.

The ECU maps the throttle differently when in P or N as opposed to being in D. When it's in P or N the throttle actuation is harsh and "clunky". When it's in D it's smoother and easier to modulate. So, the jumper I supply that makes it think it's in D is best.

The new version of the emulator is $10 more so $275 buys one.

_________________
If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

[EuroTec]

So more "notes"...

I've come up with a new version of the transmission emulator that uses the same 7 solenoids and ribbon cable that are in the valve body of the 01P/01M. It's a much nicer package it's all inside a fully enclosed box.

A couple customers had codes coming back for solenoids 4 & 6. These two solenoids measure about 6 ohms. The relays are around 80. This new kit solves that issue.

The solution for the two customers was to send them a prewired 6 ohm solenoid that plugged into the relay socket. Of course, no charge for this upgrade.

While I was at it I decided to explore the possibility of making a jumper for the multi-function switch that makes the TCU "think" it's in Park or Neutral so that the starter will work without having to rewire anything.
HOWEVER, there's a problem with this.

The ECU maps the throttle differently when in P or N as opposed to being in D. When it's in P or N the throttle actuation is harsh and "clunky". When it's in D it's smoother and easier to modulate. So, the jumper I supply that makes it think it's in D is best.


The new version of the emulator is $10 more so $275 buys one.
http://hackaweek.com/hacks/donate/

_________________
If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

[IgoR_KilleR]

Hello everyone!
Thank you Dean for this brilliant idea, but I have a few questions.
I'm struggling with a few things.

Today I built a relay version of the emulator. Unfortunately, it didn't work. The computer shows the solenoid valve error to all except the 6th solenoid valve (the one that is not connected to ground (or maybe there is a "+" there? If so, why didn't it work). I bought the relay sockets with rectifier diodes to prevent induction. I suppose I need these diodes Another error is from the automatic transmission speed sensor, even though I shorted both pins as you said.

Another thing is that you do jumpers on both speed sensors. As for the gearbox speed sensor, it's pretty obvious, I don't understand the idea behind the jumper on the second speed sensor. Will it not be needed to run the cruise control? I would prefer to install this 1.1Mohm resistor just in case and because the computer shows an error of this sensor.

One more thing. How did you manage to short the selector pins in position D to avoid ignition problems? If I remember correctly, when it's in D position, the engine won't start. How did you do it? I was thinking of installing a switch in the interior to change N to D after ignition, but it seems you solved it smarter than I couldn't find in your posts or video.

Greetings from Poland

[EuroTec]

[IgoR_KilleR]

[IgoR_KilleR]

Ok, so I cutted off the diods and it works! No selenoids errors! Only a speed sensor error left.

I put a 1.1MOhm resistor on one of the speed sensor plugs - and suddenly I got 2 errors instead of one So I shorted it back. I think I found the second speed sensor plug, but it's plugged in somwhere and I can barely reach it. I'll try to unplug it tomorrow and short it as well. Hope it will not cause any harm

As for the selector plug, unfortunately I don't know how to change the ignition circut so that it fires in position D. I figured I'd install a switch inside the cabin, which I can short pins 5 and 7 for the time of starting the engine, and then I will switch it back so that only pins 2 and 3 are shorted for position D.

[paddygarcia]

Dean, hopefully this is OT given that this thread is notes on the swap.

Your kit included the bracket for the stub axle. Is that the same as the one for the automatic? Best I can tell they are, but my MT stub axle doesn't want to line up. I could encourage it to move farther back into the bracket, but don't want to damage anything.

EDIT: nm, searching the parts diagrams shows that the AFL/DYA uses bracket 02G409905A, versus the automatic 02G409905B. Have to go back to my supplier.

[IgoR_KilleR]

[gordonfogarty]

I am in the closing stages of a manual conversion on my 1997 12v VR6 T4.
I am using a O2G diesel gearbox (with same ratios as VR6 petrol).
I have had an adaptor plate made and have modified the gearbox accordingly to account for the plate thickness.
I have used a VR6 Golf flywheel and clutch.
I have left the TCU in place and just disconnected the gearbox cable connectors.
I am now only missing a pipe for the clutch.
Fingers crossed on the closing stages and 1st start / drive .
Gordon

[soissisc]

That is interesting! Keep us posted.
_________________
Mark

68 Westy
92 Jetta (oh it is retired)
99 Eurovan
05 NBC
06 Audi A3
72 Westy (I am going to fix it up)

[EuroTec]

[brc76]

Based on your experience, I've just put myself on the waiting list with Quality German. Thanks!

[gesoffen]

I've taken the plunge!

Background:
While my 01P is still working fine, it has been making a steady (not getting better or worse) diff noise for the past ~20k miles. Servicing the diff revealed the lifetime "fluid" was more like axle grease after ~170k miles of service (I'm assuming it was still the factory fill but can't be sure since I'm not the original owner).

I've gone through several diff services to clean out the "goo" and it is now relatively clear fluid but the magnet does have a decent amount of filings on it each time. The diff is obviously not going to get better.

Adding to the differential issues, I've never liked automatic transmissions - period. My 2003 EV Weekender is the first automatic car I've owned in 35 years of driving. I had been investigating the manual swap since even before buying my van. Eurotech's success story only added further interest!

It so happens that one of our Samba Eurovan forum participants, PaddyGarcia, has also recently done the conversion, lives only about 20 miles or so from me, and was gracious enough to allow me to test drive his - thanks neighbor! After the test drive, I decided to get serious about sourcing parts before the diff in my 01P decided it was done.

I reached out to another forum member, YogiVW, and he helped me source a DYA transmission from europe. It recently arrived, expertly packed BTW. So now it's time to get down to business!

So thanks to the community, especially EuroTech, Paddy Garcia, and YogiVW, for helping to push me into the deep end!

Transmission refurb plans
With the DYA in my hands, there are a few items of cleanup and maintenance on the trans that I want to do prior to bringing the van off the road for the swap. While the transmission and other major components are used, there were a few new items that Pawel (YogiVW) included as the used components were no longer serviceable (reluctor rings, started, slave cylinder).

I intend to clean up the components, service any wear/tear items (bushings, clutch components, etc.) and source odds and ends (clutch pedal switch, reverse switch, etc.) to complete the conversion preparations.

Install plans
Assuming the current 01P trans is still going strong, I intend to bring the van off the road later this fall and do the swap over the winter. While in that deep, I have a list of other items that will be addressed (suspension bushings, exhaust components, steering components, etc.).

I intend to buy the trans emulator from EuroTech to restore ABS/ESP functionality (and clear CEL). I also intend to keep cruise control function and what would have been the factory provided clutch/start interlock.

I do intend to document some of my install here in the forum, especially those items that haven't been touched on (cruise control, clutch/start interlock, and DYA transmission specific quirks). I'm researching these items now and I'm sure I will have some questions for the group in the near future.

More to come....

[paddygarcia]

Excellent! Let me know if there's anything I can help with, at least as long as I'm still in the area

[brc76]

I'm working on putting a parts list I want to address while swapping hte transmission. I'm going to replace the transmission mounts, slave and master for the clutch, but struggling to find the part numbers for the flexi / rigid lines - or a diagram that can point me to the right ones. Anyone here have one?

[paddygarcia]

Try this for the clutch plumbing: https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/transporter/tr/2002-230/7/721-721025/

[brc76]

[1vwjunkie]

I now know what my next mod will be, to my 03 GLS

[brc76]

After popping a transmission cooler line a few weeks ago (again), I decided to just start the conversion rather than putting it off. I have a few details to complete, but it's in. I've driven it a few miles and will do more testing.

I need to:
Install the transmission emulator, I expect this will resolve the reverse lights being on constantly.
Install a new master cylinder as the biting point is right on the floor (even maybe past the floor). After checking on air in the line, I am pretty sure that the master is not creating the pressure it should.
Get a hold of a new 175 relay as I broke the case on the old one.
Figure out reverse lights


However this wasn't an attempt to hijack the thread, but more to thank all that helped me make this happen.

My notes for anyone else attempting this?
1) Take the engine out. I followed the Rialta instructions where you don't remove the engine and struggled with transmission removal. Installing the 02g with the engine still in the car was easy in comparison.
2) Order a new rear main seal, you will be changing it. I didn't and had to get one when I realized it needed to be done.
3) If in doubt label or take a photo of everything you touch.