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Tue Aug 31, 2004 2:07 pm

So I bought some fiberglass reinfoced filler - just to try it out and see how it works. I skim coated my bus rear hatch with it - what a freaking mistake! I had no idea that that stuff was so hard to sand off! 36 grit and an air file and I'm still going! Never again! I guess it's not ideal for "skim coating"- but what the hell would I use it for whwn it takes this much work to grind down?

Tue Aug 31, 2004 3:11 pm

Kitty Hair is not for skin coating but for deep repair where you have no other choice but to use it. You should glaze with Evercoat “Metal Glaze” or “Easy Sand”. There are other brands that make similar, I prefer these. If it is an absolute must to use the Kitty Hair you can always mix with one of the two products I mention. Evercoat states that all their fillers are compatible with each other and can be combined. Kitty Hair is an Evercoat product.

If you have to start over you can remove the Kitty Hair with a low flame from a propane torch. The stuff melts out quickly but be careful not to put heat into the metal.

Further,
You really should not wait until the filler is totally dry to start leveling it. The best method is to use a sure form file while the filler is just harder than wax. If you do not have a sure form you can use your 36 grit paper but it will fill up fast. Don’t take too much off, keep it slightly above the finished height so you can sand and feather to your final flatness with finer grits. Also, use paper, not cloth abrasives. The cloth fills to fast.

http://www.evercoat.com/productCategory.aspx

Tue Aug 31, 2004 4:20 pm

Thanks for the tips! I just ground the stuff out and sarted over. Just used a thin coat of bondo to get it level (can see metal through most of it now) and then will skim it with some $20 a bottle stuff I got -I think it's the same stuff you were talking about. I don't have any areas that have deep issues so I guess the kitty hair is gonna go on the shelf. Thanks again!

Tue Aug 31, 2004 6:18 pm

Good tips there 3bugs... kitty hair is good stuff... when used in the proper areas ( of for what it was formulated for... Corvettes and jetski's)

If your going to store it ( in case you need it someday) heres a tip ( that also works for bondo) Cut a piece of wax paper and set it in the can over the top of the filler... keeps the shit fresh for alot longer shelf life.

Tue Aug 31, 2004 7:37 pm

Your sheet metal showing through could indicate high spots (or your filler is still low). Get some inexpensive black spray paint and fog the repair area (don’t heavy coat). Use as long and flat a backing pad as you can and sand lightly (not too lightly)in one direction (I use 120 grit for this). High spots will have no paint, low will remain dark. If the high spots are shiny metal you may need to tap them down. If the high spots are filler (no black paint left) then keep sanding. Clean up your low spots, fill more, and start the process all over until you get a consistent flatness. Use thin coats of filler when doing this. When you start to finish sand work from the middle out in a X pattern. When you get to your transition go easy and try to just feather into the old paint so you can see no transition line. I use 320 to 400 grit for the finishing after I have all my high and low spot at about the same level.

Thanks for the recognition Guys and thanks for the storage tip, it will come in handy.

Mike

Tue Aug 31, 2004 7:42 pm

Nice to have someone else posting who knows the drill 3 bugs.

The wax paper trick seals the air out of a 3/4 or lower empty can and can mean the diff between chucking an expensive ( such as kitty hair or premium grade filler) gallon that sits for even a few weeks on the shelf.

An old school body man gave me that tidbit...

Another one is never store your hardner near the gallon or quart once it has been opened... beleive it or not it can make the shit kick off in the can prematurely.

Wed Sep 01, 2004 6:31 am

I just mean that you can see through the filler - it's not thick. I've lowered the bald spots (shiny) and put another layer over. Will block it off this morning and see where things are. Thanks for the black primer tips!

Wed Sep 01, 2004 7:43 am

Another tip for the spraying the black "guide coat". I always use flat black to guide coat, it seems to dry faster than gloss paint and gums up the sand paper less. Companies like SEM make specific spray cans for guide coating but I've found the cheap 99 cent Wal-Mart flat back spray can is comparable.

Wed Sep 01, 2004 8:05 am

[email protected] wrote: I've found the cheap 99 cent Wal-Mart flat back spray can is comparable.

Use the 99 cent stuff

Thu Sep 02, 2004 9:56 am

What brand of filler. I have used fiberglass re-enforced filler and never had that problem before.

Wed Sep 08, 2004 12:44 pm

3-m makes a dry guide coat that can be applied right to the bondo without priming first. There is no waiting for guide coat to dry. It is also good for making sure you have all the sand scratches removed. Just apply after you have the repair area level, sand with a block and 180 paper until black is gone. Re-apply and block sand with 240 or 280 until black is gone. It can be done all the way up to 400 or 500 grit. Good luck