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Mon Mar 20, 2023 1:27 pm

I recently filled the tank on my 1960 Beetle and upon returning home, I started smelling gas inside the car. Since then, my garage smells like I have an active gas leak. I've looked under the car multiple times and there's not a drip anywhere. I knew the gas cap was missing the cork seal, so I got a new one and replaced it over a week ago, then aired out the garage for several hours with the doors open and a fan blowing. The smell won't go away. It's not a hint of gas, it's as if someone comes in while I'm sleeping and pours gas all over the garage floor.

Any ideas?

Mon Mar 20, 2023 1:32 pm

Check to see if the fuel line inside the tunnel is leaking.

Keep in mind with as quickly as gasoline tends to evaporate, it may be difficult to see obvious signs of leakage onto the floor or out of the car other than the smell.

Mon Mar 20, 2023 1:49 pm

I had the same issue a couple of years ago.
It turned out to be that the gas cap wasn't seating flat at the metal filling tube of the gas tank.
Remove the cap, then put it on again by pushing the cap firmly to the top of the filling tube and then turn the cap to the right.

Mon Mar 20, 2023 1:52 pm

The tank float is located on top of the tank. It may be that the rubber gasket underneath has perished. The cover under which the float is located is easy to remove. Maybe that's where the fuel smell comes from?

Mon Mar 20, 2023 2:51 pm

j buijs wrote: The tank float is located on top of the tank. It may be that the rubber gasket underneath has perished. The cover under which the float is located is easy to remove. Maybe that's where the fuel smell comes from?

This is most likely, if the smell is strong.

A weak smell is often from the vent hose leaking after sloshing gas at a fill-up and/or hard cornering.

Mon Mar 20, 2023 3:22 pm

Its a '60, there usually is no float or fuel gauge (a few have had a gas gauge added). The old Bugs, '60 down, vent the gas tank into the frunk. They often smell of gas a little. I would still do a careful check for leaks, including a good peak inside the tunnel in a couple different places. Check the reserve tap too, and move it back and forth a few times to prove it is fuel tight. After that, don't put more than 9 gallons in the tank unless you plan to use it immediately. I used to keep a home made felt donut around the filler neck because I never found a gasket that sealed as well as the original, and really full tanks can force the vent.

The vented tank with sealed cap VW introduced in '61 was a real improvement. Well, if the fuel vent hose is good and routed like VW intended. Oh, and if you don't stick 10.5 gallons of gas in on a cool morning and then park in the hot sun. Once on my '63 I had a stream of gas pissing on the ground out of that vent!

Mon Mar 20, 2023 5:49 pm

I have no advice with regard to the gas smell issue. That said, if the fumes are as strong as the OP reports.
I hope that his water heater is electric, and the home heating furnace is inside the house.
Pilot lights can react to gasoline fumes violently, with the correct fuel/air concentrations.

Perhaps it would be a good idea to take the car for a 60 mile drive to lower the fuel level in the tank, or siphon some of the fuel out to a storage container for later use in a lawn mower and the like.

Mon Mar 20, 2023 7:38 pm

Just been through a gas smelling episode myself. Strong smell in the cabin but no signs of drips or leaks. In my case it was the short stretch of flexible hose at the rear connecting the solid line exiting the tunnel to the solid line going through the front engine tin. The cloth covering was obviously damp with gas and simple replacement fixed the problem; it wasn't particularly old but had obviously started weeping for whatever reason. Good opportunity to also eyeball the grommet in the front engine tin holding the solid fuel line and make sure it's in good condition...

Got to stay on top of these things and never ignore a strong smell of gas! Good luck tracking it down.

Mon Mar 20, 2023 8:11 pm

Thanks for the suggestions, everyone! Luckily the furnace is in the basement and on the opposite side of the house, so all good there. 😓

I did another quick scan of the gas tank and gas cap seal. Everything looks good there. I did find a very small leak at the reserve lever under the tank, so that will be addressed for sure, but doesn't seem to be my issue.

Didn't see any drips or wet spots on the underside, so I popped the deck lid to look the motor over again and this time noticed some seepage behind the carb. The motor itself looks dry, but sitting on top of the drivers side heater box is a pool of gas. Turned the gas lever to the OFF position and will be pulling the carburetor off tomorrow. Frustrated that I missed it the first couple times, but at least I know now. 🤦‍♂️

Mon Mar 20, 2023 10:15 pm

If your trunk lid seal is good and tight any little spill in the tank area will stink up the cabin. I’ve had the same issue a couple times and both were due to a full tank of gas expanding and over flowing. The vent hose got overwhelmed and it took a couple days to get rid of the smell.

Mon Mar 20, 2023 10:48 pm

Do not park inside until this is resolved, even if there is no water heater or furnace in the garage. Just dont do it, park outside. the leak may suddenly get worse.. sounds like you need a rebuild of the fuel tap.

Mon Apr 24, 2023 8:08 pm

I've pulled the carb and the fuel pump and have started rebuilding them, but I've run into an issue with the carb. In fact, I bought a second carb and I'm having the same issue with it.

I can get every jet out except this one on the top of the bottom half of the carb. I completely ruined the one in the original and the one in the backup carb won't budge either.

Any suggestions on how to get these out?

Tue Apr 25, 2023 8:16 am

Since my last post, I tried using an extractor bit and all it did was chew up the jet even more.

I should also mention that I've tried an ultrasonic cleaner (at least three rounds), let it soak, applied PB Blaster and WD-40 (and let it soak in over night). Still won't budge.

**Just watched a video on this subject that recommended using a heat gun. I'll try that next and report back.

Tue Apr 25, 2023 11:04 am

Left hand drill bit (really), and then extractor if necessary.

Or take to a machine shop where they have a drill press and more tools and experience.

Sun Apr 30, 2023 5:25 pm

Okay, I got the jet (see above) out of the original carb, but it's destroyed, so I need to replace it. Trouble is, the same jet in the backup carb is mangled and I can't read it now.

Does anyone know what this says? 0.8? 8.0? 0.B?

Before I mangled it:

Sun Apr 30, 2023 9:26 pm

That's probably 0.8 (as in 0.8mm) or approximately .031" (aka 1/32")

That's the size of that little hole in the middle there.

Even if mangled cosmetically, so long as it still fits *and* that hole is still proper, you could still use it. I'm gonna guess it's an idle air jet which are usually not removed anyway but if you did, just see if you can reinstall. If it was a press-in and not a threaded type, you'll probably need a new one anyway.

Mon May 01, 2023 9:03 am

67rustavenger wrote: I have no advice with regard to the gas smell issue. That said, if the fumes are as strong as the OP reports.
I hope that his water heater is electric, and the home heating furnace is inside the house.
Pilot lights can react to gasoline fumes violently, with the correct fuel/air concentrations.

Perhaps it would be a good idea to take the car for a 60 mile drive to lower the fuel level in the tank, or siphon some of the fuel out to a storage container for later use in a lawn mower and the like.

An electric water heater is not a good defense for gasoline explosions.
They too can ignite fumes.

If the gas smell is in the garage, park the car outside until resolved, else you got a bomb in the making. All that is at risk is the car, garage, perhaps home and your lives.
A light switch or even static cling from clothing can ignite a fire ball.

Mon May 01, 2023 9:11 am

You need a good screw driver tip, one of the correct size, and not worn. you maybe able to grind or file your screw driver to give a nice, like new, perfect fit tip, or simply buy a new one, take the carb to the screw driver store to check fit

you also will want to secure the carb in a vice of some sort so in as to hold it steady so in as you may apply lots of down force on the jet with the correctly fitting screw driver, or even remount the carb on the manifold for holding it steady. a stubby screw driver maybe needed in that case to clear the decklid.
also help full is a screwdriver with square or hex shank so in as you can apply rotation to screw driver with a wrench, as you strong push the correctly sized screw driver down on the jet.

What appears to have happened is a wrong sized or worn/ damaged screw driver has been used, and/or insufficient downward force was applied. that force must be lined up right over the center of the jet, thus the need to secure the carb in vice or such.

Mon May 01, 2023 9:17 am

zerotofifty wrote:
An electric water heater is not a good defense for gasoline explosions.
They too can ignite fumes.

If the gas smell is in the garage, park the car outside until resolved, else you got a bomb in the making. All that is at risk is the car, garage, perhaps home and your lives.
A light switch or even static cling from clothing can ignite a fire ball.

Fortunately, the gas smell is gone. I went ahead and emptied the tank and pulled the carburetor and fuel pump, so there's no fire risk now. :thumbsup:

Mon May 01, 2023 11:06 am

zerotofifty wrote: What appears to have happened is a wrong sized or worn/ damaged screw driver has been used, and/or insufficient downward force was applied. that force must be lined up right over the center of the jet, thus the need to secure the carb in vice or such.

You're 100% correct. Out of the 10+ flatheads I have, not one of them fit it perfectly. I should've done as you said and either file one down to fit it or go find the right size. I got impatient, as I tend to do from time to time. ](*,)