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Wed Mar 02, 2022 6:40 am

Yes new condenser, when I say no spark I mean at the coil itself. So I am not sure what the issue is. I know the condenser and points needed replaced because I was not getting a good ground but unsure what the next step should be.

Double checked wiring diagram everything is good.

I turn the key starter motor turns engine rotates to include the distributor but there is no spark being sent by coil even though it tested good and is supplied 12v

Wed Mar 02, 2022 7:12 am

busdaddy wrote: Did you adjust the points when they were at the peak of a lobe on the cam in there?, what happens if you connect a test light between the 2 primary terminals on the coil and crank?, steady light?, or flashing?

This needs to be checked and confirmed

Wed Mar 02, 2022 7:57 am

Test the rotor, you probably fried the resistor and look at the center contact inside the dist. cap to see if it's still there.

Wed Mar 02, 2022 11:03 am

Adjusted the point gap. Now with the ignition coil wire off the distributor I hold it near the clip on the distributor and I am finally getting an intermittent spark most likely every time my point opens. But it is orange and looks weak. So finally a step in the right direction.

What to look at now that could be causing it to be weak?

Imma check other threads as well to help in the search.

Wed Mar 02, 2022 11:27 am

When you connected the black #15 wire to the #1 terminal on the ignition coil you removed the 3ohm internal resistance that normally limits the current flow over the black #15 wire. With the ignition switch ON and the points closed you have a direct short to ground for the black #15 wire. It starts to heat up and melt. This is because VW did not install a fuse in the ignition coil circuit. Depending on how long the #15 circuit was allowed to remain shorted to ground... the entire circuit path could have melted. Just because there is current flowing so you can measure 12v+ at the ignition coil does not mean the wiring hasn't been corrupted.

Inspect the black #15 circuit at the following points:
Ignition switch plug at the bottom of the steering column. Look for the solid black #15 wire. Does it look melted?

Black #15 wire running from the ignition switch to the fuse box (fuse #11 or #12). Does it look melted?

Black #15 wire running from fuse box to the ignition coil. This wire runs to the main harness that runs from the dash to the engine compartment. You may want to open up the harness sleeve and check the black wire. Does it look melted?

End of the black #15 wire where it connects to the #15 terminal on the ignition coil. Does it look melted?
If you find that the black wire is melted at the ignition switch, you need to look further "upstream" to the red #30 wire coming into the ignition switch. This wire is the source of constant 12v+ to the ignition switch. Not unusual for this wire to start melting when the #15 circuit is grounded.

Ok, after you check and fix any melted wires...
You confirmed the voltage that makes it to the ignition coil #15 terminal was reading 12.5v but after the ignition you measured 11.4v, 10.4v or 0v. Here is why... the voltage measurement taken on the #1 terminal or wire will be greatly affected by whether the points are open or closed.
Disconnect all wires from the #1 terminal of the ignition coil. Test the voltage at the #15 terminal while the ignition switch is ON. You were reading 12.5v, same as at the battery. This is great. Now test the voltage at the #1 terminal with no wires connected. The voltage reading my drop a bit but it should be nearly the same as the #15 terminal reading. This shows the primary winding in the coil is in tact. The 3ohm internal ballast resistor is why the voltage may drop just a half-volt or so.
When the points wire is connected and the points are closed the #1 terminal has a direct path to ground. Any current flowing thru the ignition coil and out the #1 terminal has two paths to ground... a high resistance path thru the voltmeter you have connected to the #1 terminal/wire... or a zero ohm resistance path thru the points. 99.9999% of the current flows thru the points. Very little, if any, flows thru the VM so it shows nearly 0v. Since the points are closed nearly 50% of the time, you have a 50/50 chance of measuring voltage on the #1 terminal depending where the distributor stopped rotating when the engine was turned OFF. This is why disconnecting the wires from the #1 terminal give you consistent voltage readings and testing with wires connected do not.

Basic ignition coil test:
Disconnect ALL wires from the ignition coil except the single black #15 wire providing 12v+ from the ignition switch.

Using a jumper wire with stripped ends, insert one end into the HT center post of the ignition coil making sure the exposed wire strands are touching the conductor inside the center post of the coil.
Hold the other stripped end of this wire 2mm from the body of the distributor (ground).

Using another ground jumper wire connected to the #1 terminal of the ignition coil. The wire needs to be long enough that it can be grounded to the body of the distributor.

Turn the ignition switch to the ON/RUN position. There is now 12v+ at the ignition coil over the black #15 wire.

Touch the #1 terminal ground wire to the body of the distributor to ground the ignition coil primary winding. No spark.

Now remove the ground wire from the distributor body. At the instant you remove the wire a blue-white spark should jump the 2mm from the end of the center post stripped wire to the body of the distributor. This is the ignition coil secondary winding generating a 10Kv spark.
Repeat by touching the ground wire to ground and removing it to spark the coil.
If this test works as described your ignition coil is working normally.

Disconnect the ground wire and reconnect just the points/condenser wire to the #1 terminal of the ignition coil. Rotate the crank pulley until the point contacts are closed. The #1 terminal should now be grounded.

Using a wood/plastic stick (so it cannot accidentally ground) push on the moving arm of the points to open the contacts. This is exactly the same removing the ground wire from the body of the distributor... a spark should jump from the end of the center post wire to ground. Now that the condenser is connected the spark should be stronger and you could increase the gap to 1cm and the spark should still jump the gap with a blue-white spark.
If everything worked as described, your ignition coil is working normally.
If the ignition coil test failed, it likely means the #15 wire is providing some current but not enough to consistently fire the coil. Run a new wire from the battery directly to the ignition coil #15 terminal. Use your battery jumper cable and a length of wire. Rerun the tests. If this works, it indicates the black #15 wire has been corrupted and no longer reliable.

Thu Mar 03, 2022 10:45 am

Thank you for the advice ashman40 I ran a new #15 wire from my fuse box back to the coil as the number 15 at the box had melted like you said.

I tested the spark coming out the ignition coil wire by putting it next to the distributor and I get a nice blue spark every time the points open. I then pulled one of the spark plug wires making sure the distributor was sending the spark to the plugs and that is a yes.

However, still is not starting..what could it be now. I confirmed it is getting fuel as I flooded it because I tried to crank it one to many times and notice fuel pulling up on time of the valve cover.

Thu Mar 03, 2022 11:25 am

Did you static set your timing?

Thu Mar 03, 2022 3:49 pm

Just got home and checked. With Timing belt at TDC my rotor on the distributor points to number one spark plug and I adjust the distributor till it showed the points open. Still no start. Imma pull plugs and see if they are wet. But any other ideas?

Thu Mar 03, 2022 4:30 pm

Well if you would have did my test back at the start of this fiasco it would have led you to your melted #15 wire and saved some time so the only thing left is your sparkplug wires are 180 off, but that is too easy so we will wait for another page or two for you to look to see if #1 VALVES are both closed at TDC otherwise you are on #3 TDC.

Thu Mar 03, 2022 4:46 pm

Starbucket wish I could have done your test but no lights are wired at the moment

Thu Mar 03, 2022 11:46 pm

Here is Speedy Jim’s page on troubleshooting engine start problems. Read it through twice the go thru all the steps even if you think you’ve already done them.
http://www.speedyjim.net/htm/eng_strt.htm