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Mon Jul 26, 2021 12:34 pm

Really effed this up today....
My original oil pressure switch was leaking through the switch itself (dripping out where the electrical spade terminal is.) So... went and bought this one from NAPA:

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHOP6066?partType...ure+switch

I went with this one since I have had good luck with a couple of Eichlin products in the past. What I didn't notice, before I started threading this new switch in, was that smooth tapered section between the large hex part of the switch and the threaded part, was never going to allow the switch to snug up against the engine case. My old switch was flat there, meaning the large hex part snugged right up against the case. Not so with this one, and in the process of threading it in I stripped out the threaded hole in the case. ](*,) And even threaded in up to that taper it still leaked way worse than the old switch.
Of course when I took it back, they said it was "installer error." Now the new switch leaks, and the old switch won't stay in because the threads are wallowed out. Going to have to find a place that can timesert the threaded hole and get a new correct switch- couple of drops is better than oil all over the engine bay.
Guess I really have no point to this anecdote, other than never buy that NAPA switch.

Mon Jul 26, 2021 2:06 pm

Mother of sweet divine Jesus. How the fluck you managed that level of carnage is beyond me.

That switch looks completely unlike the original one. I'd never choose that. The thread is the same but it looks like the threaded end is about 3mm longer. Recycle that and get the proper one. Clean the threads and hand tighten the switch first to make sure you're not crossing the threads.

Holy Mother of God and all the blessed saints in heaven preserve us!

Mon Jul 26, 2021 2:44 pm

Volks Wagen wrote: Mother of sweet divine Jesus. How the fluck you managed that level of carnage is beyond me.

That switch looks completely unlike the original one. I'd never choose that. The thread is the same but it looks like the threaded end is about 3mm longer. Recycle that and get the proper one. Clean the threads and hand tighten the switch first to make sure you're not crossing the threads.

Holy Mother of God and all the blessed saints in heaven preserve us!

Well I did start it by hand, the first few threads were fine, so then I threaded it in with a socket, same as the old one, which way lessens resistance feel. I'm thinking "OK it will snug up against the case and I'll be done." And by the time I realized it was never stopping threading in, and I spun it back out, case threads came with it. Sometimes you don't see the trees for the forest, or something.

Mon Jul 26, 2021 4:51 pm

The oil pressure switch is thread M10X1K and should be torqued to 10Nm (7ftlb).
The k (for keg) which stands for a tapered thread.

See the below link.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9162204&highlight=#9162204

Mon Jul 26, 2021 5:06 pm

PS: The thread in the case which the oil pressure switch screws into is M10x1.

Mon Jul 26, 2021 5:09 pm

There are heli-coil type repair kits for this, and TimeSert https://www.amazon.com/TIME-SERT-Metric-Thread-Repair-1010/dp/B001JK8020

aircooled.net rents TimeSert tools

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Time-Sert-Tool-Rental-1-8-27-0127-p/time-sert-rental-0127.htm

Mon Jul 26, 2021 5:31 pm

Meiang wrote: The oil pressure switch is thread M10X1K and should be torqued to 10Nm (7ftlb).
The k (for keg) which stands for a tapered thread.

See the below link.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9162204&highlight=#9162204

PS: The thread in the case which the oil pressure switch screws into is M10x1.

Cusser wrote: There are heli-coil type repair kits for this, and TimeSert https://www.amazon.com/TIME-SERT-Metric-Thread-Repair-1010/dp/B001JK8020

aircooled.net rents TimeSert tools

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Time-Sert-Tool-Rental-1-8-27-0127-p/time-sert-rental-0127.htm

Thanks Meiang and Cusser,

luckily there is a mechanic literally right around the corner from the store I bought the part from, who I have used several times before (although this is the first time I've ever had the bug there, he knew that I owned one.) Since the car is basically undriveable ATM (I returned the new switch and the old one won't fit anymore) I just rolled it there. He already has the timesert kit, but I'll make sure he knows the case thread is M10x1.

Mon Jul 26, 2021 6:04 pm

sb001 wrote: luckily there is a mechanic literally right around the corner from the store I bought the part from....He already has the timesert kit, but I'll make sure he knows the case thread is M10x1.

Great !!! I sure like TimeSert more than coiled-type fixes, even though this sender is not a part that has to be replaced periodically.

Mon Jul 26, 2021 6:36 pm

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Time-Sert-Thread-Insert-1-8-27-x-360-01271-p/01271.htm
Make sure that your selected mech. Understands that if the Timesert is seated too deep. He may block the oil passage. That will make things way worse than they are currently.

Carefully check the case around the pressure sender hole. Hopefully there isn't any cracks in the case. Clean it up real good and have a look.

Good luck Steve.

Mon Jul 26, 2021 9:22 pm

67rustavenger wrote: http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Time-Sert-Thread-Insert-1-8-27-x-360-01271-p/01271.htm
Make sure that your selected mech. Understands that if the Timesert is seated too deep. He may block the oil passage. That will make things way worse than they are currently.

Carefully check the case around the pressure sender hole. Hopefully there isn't any cracks in the case. Clean it up real good and have a look.

Good luck Steve.

sweet thanks for that link! I will show the mechanic tomorrow.

Tue Jul 27, 2021 6:43 am

I did a 'vehicles that this fits' search. It doesn't fit ACVWs. ('69 Beetles anyway) Take it back to NAPA and tell them the error was in them giving you the wrong part and you're gonna sue them to pay for getting the engine fixed. 8)

Tue Jul 27, 2021 7:48 am

runamoc wrote: I did a 'vehicles that this fits' search. It doesn't fit ACVWs. ('69 Beetles anyway) Take it back to NAPA and tell them the error was in them giving you the wrong part and you're gonna sue them to pay for getting the engine fixed. 8)

Unfortunately, that route doesn't work. Much MUCH easier said than done.

It says on their website it fits a 70 beetle, which is the equivalent of my engine now (1600cc single port.) It may be the wrong part or just a bad design, but I'm better off biting the bullet and just paying to have it fixed.

Unfortunately I just tried to order the threaded insert from aircooled.net only to find out they are out of stock, so I'll need to find the threaded insert somewhere else. Hopefully I can still rent the kit from them.

Tue Jul 27, 2021 7:54 am

This is the same insert that aircooled.net sells:

https://www.mechanicstoolsandbits.com/time-sert-01...IMEALw_wcB

However the thread and length dimensions are standard measurements, not metric. Am I better off ordering an actual M10 x 1.0 instead? If so, does anyone know the exact length I need? This same website has a few M10 x 1.0 but they all appear to be too long:

https://www.mechanicstoolsandbits.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=M10x1.0

Thanks

Tue Jul 27, 2021 8:34 am

runamoc wrote: I did a 'vehicles that this fits' search. It doesn't fit ACVWs. ('69 Beetles anyway) Take it back to NAPA and tell them the error was in them giving you the wrong part and you're gonna sue them to pay for getting the engine fixed. 8)

Sue them over a $10 part?

Hope you get it fixed.

Tue Jul 27, 2021 8:57 am

raydog wrote: runamoc wrote: I did a 'vehicles that this fits' search. It doesn't fit ACVWs. ('69 Beetles anyway) Take it back to NAPA and tell them the error was in them giving you the wrong part and you're gonna sue them to pay for getting the engine fixed. 8)

Sue them over a $10 part?

Hope you get it fixed.

Yes, and the damages that $10 part did. Plus the cost of fixing aforementioned damage :roll:

Tue Jul 27, 2021 9:16 am

Measure the threaded portion of the oil pressure switch, in millimeters. Something close to that length is sufficient, preferably shorter. You will be countersinking the shoulder of the insert to just below flush of the crankcase surface, so the insert will act slightly longer than its actual length.

Post the length of the threads of the switch and we can help you find an insert.

Tue Jul 27, 2021 11:12 am

Paul Windisch wrote: Measure the threaded portion of the oil pressure switch, in millimeters. Something close to that length is sufficient, preferably shorter. You will be countersinking the shoulder of the insert to just below flush of the crankcase surface, so the insert will act slightly longer than its actual length.

Post the length of the threads of the switch and we can help you find an insert.

Thanks Paul- I'll try to get the old switch and measure it asap (the mechanic still has it.)
Is there any reason to doubt that the insert aircooled.net was selling before they ran out would not work or is not correct for the application? (Even though it is in standard instead of metric?) I have found another outlet selling that same insert, and I did notice that this place says it is a "taper pipe" style:

https://www.mechanicstoolsandbits.com/time-sert-01...IMEALw_wcB

but it is the exact same one that aircooled.net was selling.

On a side note, when I emailed aircooled.net about their policy regarding renting the kit, they informed me that they are phasing out their rental program and are selling their used timesert kits at HALF PRICE ($55) so I'm thinking of just buying it outright, but since the installation tool that comes with it would be specific to the insert above, I want to make sure that that insert will work.

Tue Jul 27, 2021 11:43 am

I suppose it depends on what type of switch you wish to install. If you are installing a straight threaded OE style switch with M10x1.0 threads, then you do not want the tapered insert.

On my own car, I installed the dual post switch for use with the original light, and a gauge. It is made by VDO. It has tapered threads and I installed it in the regular hole, not even realizing there was a difference. I did NOT over-torque it, so it has been okay, but in your situation, it will be up to you as to which one you want to use.

I believe if you install a tapered insert, you might have trouble getting an original style switch to seal properly. Perhaps others can chime in.

What I do know, is Time-Sert inserts are HARD, and will not likely accept "forming" of incorrect threads the way aluminum or magnesium will.

Tue Jul 27, 2021 12:12 pm

Buy a 3 lb. Hobbs switch with 1/8" taper pipe threads and tap the case 1/8" tpt.

Tue Jul 27, 2021 12:17 pm

Paul Windisch wrote: If you are installing a straight threaded OE style switch with M10x1.0 threads, then you do not want the tapered insert.

According to an earlier post in this thread, the OE oil pressure switch was M10x1.0K (tapered threads.)