TheSamba.com :: View topic - Added Lucas Zinc Additive to Last Oil Change; Threw Rod Hundred

Fri Jul 16, 2021 12:42 pm

Added Lucas Zinc Additive to Last Oil Change; Threw Rod Hundred

Reading a bit about what causes rod knock; and reading this post in particular

Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2005 4:40 pm Post subject: Rod knockingFor most of your, that do not know, most of the cause for a noise from the rods, is not due to worn bearing, but due to too much slack in the clearances inside the small end of the connecting rod, where the bronze bushing is.

Makes me wonder; could the Lucas be the cause?

Only used 1/3rd of the bottle; topped up last oil change of Mobile 1 10w 30 (NON high mileage)

Was wary bc says to be used for engine break ins but then also says to be used for classic cars....

Now reading this description; last line (which wasn't on bottle)

"Not to be used in passenger cars"

Unless they mean new cars for passenger cars....

Fri Jul 16, 2021 12:51 pm

it caused you to throw your hundredth rod?

Fri Jul 16, 2021 12:54 pm

Breakin oil is ment for engine breaking, not general oil change.

Fri Jul 16, 2021 12:58 pm

scubasteve321 wrote: Post subject: Rod knockingFor most of your, that do not know, most of the cause for a noise from the rods, is not due to worn bearing, but due to too much slack in the clearances inside the small end of the connecting rod, where the bronze bushing is.

There is waaaaay too little context there.. What are we talking about?

Fri Jul 16, 2021 1:00 pm

They talk out both sides of their mouths. They probably say only for break in because modern oil specs for passenger car oil don't allow that much ZDDP and it can be bad for modern catalytic converters. Then on their website they say

Engine Building: Add one bottle to engine upon initial break-in.
Valve Train Protection: For maximum protection, add one bottle with every oil change.

Short answer is that no, it didn't cause you to throw a rod. Many of us add ZDDP and I've never heard of that happening as a result. Discussion beyond that probably belongs on the oil sticky.

Fri Jul 16, 2021 1:05 pm

your rod was going to throw with or without lucas.

unless there was straight up crushed glass or sand in it, it's not the lucas

Fri Jul 16, 2021 1:06 pm

Generally, people start dumping additives in their engine or transmission because something wasn’t quite right, why did you start pouring snake oil into you car?

Fri Jul 16, 2021 1:15 pm

In my past ACVW engines I’ve only used this additive during initial break in. But in my current engine I use 1/2 bottle of that additive every oil change. I use Dino oil, not synthetic like you’re using. My builder says he doesn’t think it it necessary, but states it won’t hurt anything. There’s lots of information out there on weather to continue using it or not. Since I haven’t before, I am now to see if there is a difference. So far the only difference I notice is that oil changes are $10 more, the $20 bottle lasts 2 oil changes for me.

I will say that all the local good ole’ boy dirt track racers have told me to continue to use it. If that means anything. 🤷‍♂️

Fri Jul 16, 2021 1:29 pm

Im still throwing in a pint of Marvel Mystery oil in the gas and oil every now and then. Was something the old timer hot rod guys told me as a kid. Dont know if it makes a difference or not, but it certainly hasnt caused any harm as far as I know.

Fri Jul 16, 2021 1:42 pm

marvel mystery oil is no miracle. Oil additives are no miracle.

The small end of the rod knock is more like piston slap than rod knock. Rod knock is from worn or spun rod bearings, low oil pressure basically.

Why did you feel the need to add Lucas is my first question. What condition made you want to spend the money?

Quote: Only used 1/3rd of the bottle; topped up last oil change of Mobile 1 10w 30 (NON high mileage)
too light an oil unless you are in winter in the southern hemisphere right now. When it is 90F to 100F out that oil is thin as water in a bus. Should be using at least SAE40 or 10W-40 this time of the year. Desert SW or California Central Valley in summer - 20W-50 or 15W-40 or 15W-50 etc.

Regardless, what Don wrote is the best answer. Your rod was going to go bad with or without the additive. Falling oil pressure, or over reving a worn engine will toss a rod. If you tossed it then you were turning some RPM when it went. Rods toss because they seize on the crank, or because a rod bolt breaks.

And no, Lucas is not going to buy you a new engine. Their caveats are really for catalytic converters. ZDDP slowly kills them.

Fri Jul 16, 2021 2:15 pm

Copy all; thanks everyone for input

Im in the PNW so I believe 10w30 suffices; except for our last heat wave

Also just found this info; Addition of 16 oz. to 4.5 quarts motor oil will achieve approximately 5,000 ppm of Zinc; I added about 6 ounces to the 2.6? quart system; giving a ppm of about 2,500?

Thought I read somewhere no more than 1200/1500 recommended? And thats just for break in?

Just trying to put this info and if, for example, too high ppm can cause damage and it'd help someone in the future then that'd be one of silver linings

My girlfriend and I are stuck in Sequim trying to get back to Bellingham or at least Seattle; Rod threw just before our start of Treffen Cruise; Ive posted for help on the Treffen Facebook page trying to hitch a ride with people back North;

If anyone knows Airhead parts owner number and would be willing to pass on mine or knows of someone on the ride would be grand

Maybe he'd be willing to make public announcement at a stop?

971 888 2450

Fri Jul 16, 2021 2:51 pm

From Ratwell

Fri Jul 16, 2021 3:14 pm

All AAA for a tow

Fri Jul 16, 2021 5:08 pm

is this a new motor? Sequim is 70 miles from Seattle. There are U-haul rentals in Sequim where you can get a small truck and dolly.

Fri Jul 16, 2021 11:07 pm

scubasteve321 wrote: From Ratwell

good point.... playing chemist never really works out for many.

i still stand by my statement though... unless that bottle of lucas was full of gravel this engine was going to pop no matter what.

having said that i'll never understand why people don't just buy the right stuff. grab a case of VR-1, Brad Penn, Joe Gibbs etc all of which has the proper zddp for flat tappet cams

Sat Jul 17, 2021 7:45 am

I did call AAA; bus is home safe; couldn't get in tow truck with dog though

And no rental cars available; hence me kindly asking for a ride for my g/f dog and I

But Airhead Parts got back to me and will make an announcement at a ride stop luckily

From Ratwell, Mobile 1 has ZDDP; about 800 ppm that plus the 2,500 I added would be about 3,300

3,300 ppm and a brass bearing going within a hundred miles?

Seems too much of a coincidence
Gonna send off oil for analysis as well as bring engine to local Aircooled VeeDub shop