TheSamba.com :: View topic - To Chrome or not to Chrome Valve covers??

Wed Jan 08, 2020 8:32 am

I bought a set of chrome valve covers for my 73 super, now after doing some research, it may not be the best thing for my bug. Stick with the originals and new gaskets or go with the chrome????? Thoughts and opinions?????
Also, I've installed a new chrome air breather vs. the old oil bath. Looks good but was it a ok thing to do?????

Wed Jan 08, 2020 8:45 am

Chrome won't get you home...
Stick with the original equipment. The oil bath cleaner, and original German tin, is far superior to any aftermarket stuff.
Cheers!
Mike

Wed Jan 08, 2020 8:47 am

Chrome valve covers reflect/retain heat, and thus will make your engine run a little hotter. And I've always heard that the original oil bath air cleaners generally work better than the aftermarket ones. So basically boils down to if you're more interested in how the engine "looks", or more interested in how it performs...

Wed Jan 08, 2020 10:09 am

The amount of reflected heat is negligible. If your chrome covers are reasonably heavy, the gaskets stay in place and no leaks go with it. BUT I have found a lot of the aftermarket bales are pretty wimpy and dont hold the cover as tight. And honestly, with exception of one or 2 of my cars where I needed the added clearance because of the valve train, I use stock OEM covers on my cars.

Wed Jan 08, 2020 10:10 am

Not only do the chrome ones increase temperature, they usually don't fit very well either.

Wed Jan 08, 2020 10:22 am

I used to say that chrome make it run hotter but since I've never seen any scientific proof... so I don't assume they do.

But I do fi d that oem parts fit better than aftermarket.

So stay stock.

Wed Jan 08, 2020 10:29 am

Chrome valve covers - They dress up an engine as they tend to be large and prominent. When you open the hood on a classic V-8 the valve covers are the largest items (other than the air cleaner housing), and there are two of them symmetrically placed on either side of the engine. While I agree they reflect and don't radiate heat as well as the stock steel/black covers, I don't think they will make a noticeable difference in engine operating temps.
Unfortunately, unlike the classic V-8 engines you cannot SEE the valve covers on a Beetle when you open the rear deck lid. You can only see the valve covers by looking under the car. So unless you plan on putting mirrors on the floor under the rear of your car (common at shows) then no one will see your shinny chrome valve covers.

Chrome air filter housing - Air filter housings have two (2) functions. The most obvious is to filter dust/dirt out of the air before allowing it to be mixed with fuel. The second less obvious function is to guide/steer the air flow thru the carb opening. This is done with a stack, also known as a "velocity stack". This is an extension over the carb opening that funnels the air so it flows smoothly straight down the carb. The taller the stack the "straigher" the air flow which contributes more air molecules flowing into the engine. Ideally, the intake end of the stack should have a radius opening like a trumpet horn. This smoothly guides the air flow. The stock filters all used some form of stack to steer the air flow.

You frequently see the use of velocity stacks in the performance carbs like Weber IDFs. Here the stacks are placed INSIDE the filter housing:

Most aftermarket chrome air filters have no stack. You can see below the flange is only for mounting the filter to the neck of the carb. Air flows across the bottom of the filter housing and makes a 90-deg turn to enter the carb. This is NOT good air flow.

Some "old school" chrome filters did use a velocity stack design, but they would have to sit taller or have a velocity stack INSIDE the housing:

Even the use of short stacks can aid in airflow. Here is a pic of a K&N adapter that fit over the opening of a Holley carb INSIDE the air cleaner. Just adding this to the carb+air filter could add 6HP!

If you have a choice, stick with the stock air cleaner housing.

Wed Jan 08, 2020 10:33 am

I really do appreciate everyone's advice. This is all new to me but I'm really enjoying the restoration process.

Wed Jan 08, 2020 10:38 am

Quick somebody post a how to with pics o how to convert oil bath to a K&N by gutting it. Somebody unable to perform simple preventive maintenance on oil bath probably also runs a power pulley and chrome valve covers. Lol
Is that rinky dink enough?

Thu Jan 09, 2020 5:55 am

I dunno - I personally hate dicking around with oil baths....the damn things LOVE to get knocked over when you remove them...LOL And you reminded me that I wanted to do that (K&N conversion) on my 65 before spring hits.

And to the OP - keep in mind that you do not always get support from everyone for whatever you want to do. Not dissing anyone on here, but there is a fair amount of misinformation passed around (yeah, I know....something not true on the internet? How can that be?)

What you will find is your list of "go-to" people on here that really know their shit and typically speak from personal experience as well as having a HUGE wealth of knowledge. There are about a dozen on here that, if they told me to push the car off a cliff to improve performance, I would seriously consider it...But there are lots of others that produce noise.

Anyway - don't get frustrated, sort through the comments and take some with a grain of salt. Good luck.

Thu Jan 09, 2020 8:35 am

It's your engine do what makes you happy. If you want to run more chrome than a 56 Buick go for it. Life's too short not to put sprinkles on shit once in a while.

Hopefully the valve covers are decent quality metal and sturdy enough not to leak. Glue the gasket to the cover though, oil likes to seep between the chrome cover and the gasket

I run SCAT stainless clip ons and Revmaster or CB aluminum C-channel covers. Nothing wrong with a bit of bling, no matter what the purists say.

brad

Fri Jan 10, 2020 5:43 pm

Glenn wrote: I used to say that chrome make it run hotter but since I've never seen any scientific proof... so I don't assume they do . . .
I don't know if it qualifies as "scientific", but I did a little experiment on a closely related subject to this one a few months ago. Here it is, if you want to check it out: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=725332

When the Australian scientists outfitted their Beetles to survive in Antarctica in 1963 - https://petrolicious.com/articles/polar-bug-when-the-volkswagen-beetle-conquered-antarctica , one of the things they did was replace the stock valve covers with chrome-plated ones to help the engines stay warmer. How much warmer, I have no idea. Probably not a lot, but some.

I agree with whoever said your bigger problem will be with the poor quality of the fit and finish. Even if they don't leak, it's a sure bet that thin, Chinese chrome will turn to rust as soon as it gets exposed to the elements. And rusty metal is a very poor radiator of heat!

Fri Jan 10, 2020 7:16 pm

Chrome is slipperier, and it can be more difficult to get the gasket to stay put.

Fri Jan 10, 2020 7:19 pm

Scat makes a nice set of clip on stainless steel valve covers with tabs on them to keep the gasket in place

https://www.aikaneparts.com/store/p208/SCAT_80240T...B%29_.html

Fri Jan 10, 2020 7:37 pm

I scuff the Scat stainless ones where the gasket sits to give it a little "tooth" and use 3M weatherstrip adhesive. I would suggest do the soae with the chrome ones.

Sat Jan 11, 2020 1:39 am

74 Thing wrote: Scat makes a nice set of clip on stainless steel valve covers with tabs on them to keep the gasket in place

https://www.aikaneparts.com/store/p208/SCAT_80240T...B%29_.html
The Scat stainless steel valve covers & clips work great with the stock gaskets.
I grease the gaskets and let them soak over night before mounting the covers.

To bad they're not available with the standard height and without the logo...

Sat Jan 11, 2020 2:23 am

King covers by JPM. Best I've ever used.

Sat Jan 11, 2020 5:27 am

slalombuggy wrote:

Life's too short not to put sprinkles on shit once in a while.

brad

How'd this go unnoticed! I fully AGREE! :lol:

Sat Jan 11, 2020 1:12 pm

When it comes to valve covers, my primary concern is how well it seals. The exterior color can be pink, for all I care.

I had a valve cover leak awhile back, and I bought two different stock, black valve covers from two different VW vendors. One of these was from Bughaus. The other was from ... well, I can’t remember; but this second one had a VW stamp on it.

The VW-stamped one had an interior sealing edge that was beveled. In other words, not flat, as it should have been. I didn’t install it because I assumed it would leak because the sealing lip wouldn’t make full contact with the width of the gasket. Flat surface, flat gasket=less chance of a leak, right?

However, the Bughaus valve cover—although not stamped with the VW symbol—had a perfectly flat surface where the gasket fits. I installed this cover, and my problem with leaking was eliminated.

Obtaining a valve cover with the best sealing surface is paramount. The color ... meh.

Tim

Sat Jan 11, 2020 3:39 pm

Floating VW wrote: Glenn wrote: I used to say that chrome make it run hotter but since I've never seen any scientific proof... so I don't assume they do . . .
I don't know if it qualifies as "scientific", but I did a little experiment on a closely related subject to this one a few months ago. Here it is, if you want to check it out: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=725332

When the Australian scientists outfitted their Beetles to survive in Antarctica in 1963 - https://petrolicious.com/articles/polar-bug-when-the-volkswagen-beetle-conquered-antarctica , one of the things they did was replace the stock valve covers with chrome-plated ones to help the engines stay warmer. How much warmer, I have no idea. Probably not a lot, but some.

I agree with whoever said your bigger problem will be with the poor quality of the fit and finish. Even if they don't leak, it's a sure bet that thin, Chinese chrome will turn to rust as soon as it gets exposed to the elements. And rusty metal is a very poor radiator of heat!

The effect of chrome or different colours is insignificant compared to the excess heat caused by a poorly tuned or inefficient engine with less than optimum air flow or poor sealing. Yes dark surfaces emit more, but they also absorb more. There is convection, conductance and emissivity calculations to be done, but these are all pretty theoretical and hard to prove in a real world situation compared to laboratory controlled surfaces.

Paint them any colour you want. But spend your time tuning your car and not worry about dubious scientific postulations.