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  View original topic: Runny Redline CV2 CV joint grease after 15,000 miles? Page: 1, 2  Next
a57oval Thu Aug 22, 2019 7:36 am

Hello all,
I disassembled , thoroughly cleaned, and reassembled my original CV joints. no pitting, galling, all in very good condition and OEM VW. I repacked them with Redline CV2 grease and installed Rockford boots from Chris at T3. This all occurred about 15,000 miles ago.
I took off the outer cv joint to do some other work and I found a runny brown mess.



IS this normal? Do i need to repack my CV joints? If this isn't normal why would this occur?
I checked my Bentley and there is no service interval specified.

I am taking off on an 10,000 plus mile trip shortly and don't want any failures.
Can you guys steer me in the right direction?
Thanks for your help,
Peter

shagginwagon83 Thu Aug 22, 2019 7:58 am

I had similar issues (except not with redline). My final drive flange seals were leaking trans oil out into the joints. It might be your issue also. Are you auto or manual?

snwbrdr435 Thu Aug 22, 2019 8:00 am

That would make sense, but he said that was an outer joint no an inner... I thought I read somewhere that redline changed their formula resulting in a now less than stellar product.

shagginwagon83 Thu Aug 22, 2019 8:03 am

snwbrdr435 wrote: That would make sense, but he said that was an outer joint no an inner... I thought I read somewhere that redline changed their formula resulting in a now less than stellar product.

Oh. Yup. My bad.

a57oval Thu Aug 22, 2019 8:06 am

I have a Subarugears 5 speed with zero leaks and zero fluid loss. The picture is of an outer joint so no transaxle fluid is invading the joint.

Is this dripping cv joint grease normal? Does it mean the grease is toast?

Confused as usual,
Peter

shagginwagon83 Thu Aug 22, 2019 8:14 am

I'm just going to throw something out, were you CV boots clamped at the end of boot (axle inner)? Maybe some water got in there?

a57oval Thu Aug 22, 2019 8:25 am

"I'm just going to throw something out, were you CV boots clamped at the end of boot (axle inner)? Maybe some water got in there?"

Yes, I clamped the inner end of the boot. BUT I didn't clamp the boot very aggressively. You can wiggle the clamp with your fingers. I did not want to damage the boots. I take it your thinking I have water intrusion into the joint and that is what is causing the grease to go weird? or is this normal behaviour for CV joint grease?
Peter

joetiger Thu Aug 22, 2019 8:31 am

I can't find proof, but I distinctly remember a discussion here about Redline grease having a tendency to liquefy with extended use.

Syncronoid Thu Aug 22, 2019 8:47 am

I spoke with Chris at T3 some time ago and he indicated that Redline may have changed the formula for the CV2 grease, causing it to become less viscous under extreme conditions and not protecting the joint as well as the old formula. This is now why Chris recommends the NEO Synthestics HPCC#1 CV Joint Grease. It is very expensive for joint grease, but for those looking for max performance, protection and longevity, it's one to consider.

joetiger wrote: I can't find proof, but I distinctly remember a discussion here about Redline grease having a tendency to liquefy with extended use.

Phaedrus Thu Aug 22, 2019 11:31 am

Honestly, I would just use regular old grease over Redline or any other synthetic. I too have had the CV2 liquify as photo'd, no contamination, over the course of a few years. The cost to gain ratio is not in your favor. I work on 40+ year old rigs and if the boot is tight and the joint is packed well, good ol' fashion grease lasts a long time. Unless you're using a syncro in the most extreme off-road conditions, I can't imagine why you'd pay for extra special CV grease. You'd be better off buying a $2 lucky crystal and putting on your dash.

djkeev Thu Aug 22, 2019 12:36 pm

About a year ago I drove through some deep water left by an unexpected and severe thunderstorm.

Apparently water entered the LF wheel bearing through the Speedometer cable openings.

My wheel bearing grease in that wheel looked very much like your photo, a runny mess!




The worst of the flooding, a photo that made the local news.......
The creek is about 6' below this briddge......




Dave

newerwesty1987 Thu Aug 22, 2019 2:47 pm

Royal Purple grease...

GreggK Thu Aug 22, 2019 3:29 pm

I used the NEO CV grease from T3. Haven't had the chance to check the joints but while packing the joints I would say it has a nice texture and seems to coat the surfaces well.

levi Thu Aug 22, 2019 4:24 pm

Was it only on the outboard side ?
Was it only on the one axle?
If the wheel bearing is going it could create enough heat to do that.

Gizmoman Fri Aug 23, 2019 4:55 am

From where I sit (at the keyboard), I'd say Dave's example of water mixed with grease looks identical to what you have in your outer CV.

BillM Fri Aug 23, 2019 5:14 am

It’s the redline grease. The formula was changed and it’s not as good as it once was.

bsrad Fri Aug 23, 2019 5:42 am

BillM wrote: It’s the redline grease. The formula was changed and it’s not as good as it once was.

100% agree, and confirmed. Did a 1500 miles trip from ID to AZ just after rebuilding with the redline grease. 3 of 4 CVs ended up like that.. Cleaned and repacked with different grease before returning home.

XXX/Rx/RnR Fri Aug 23, 2019 5:49 am

Neo is the only product that doesn't melt and drip out or slung out of my setup. Too hot here in Phoenix with the hp I'm pushing. $73 a tube, but worth every penny. Because it sucked servicing the cv's after each long trip using the cheep stuff.

http://www.bakerprecision.com/neo/grease.htm

dschaftlein Fri Aug 23, 2019 8:02 am

When did they change the formula? I'm wondering if i should pull mine apart and re-grease.

Abscate Fri Aug 23, 2019 8:09 am

dschaftlein wrote: When did they change the formula? I'm wondering if i should pull mine apart and re-grease.

Every 30k miles you should. Once you go to the trouble of getting them off, cleaning and repacking is the easy part

Anyone who needle greases them gets their tools thrown into the lake



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