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Thu Aug 01, 2019 9:14 pm

My ‘72 Super (“Henry”) has a 1600 SP, for some reason, and is missing the heat risers. Are they necessary or optional? I live in the Blue Ridge Mtn. foothills of NC, so I see a full gamut of weather and temperatures throughout the year. Will it help my engine run better?

Thu Aug 01, 2019 9:42 pm

Short answer. Yes!
Heat risers are paramount to a good running single carb engine in a four season environment.
The intake manifold needs heat to help preventing fuel from falling out of suspension on the way to the intake valves. If the fuel falls out of suspension. The engine can sputter while trying to ingest the liquid fuel. Instead of fuel vapor.

Find a set of heat risers and install them. It will make a huge difference in how your engine runs.

Good Luck.

Thu Aug 01, 2019 10:25 pm

A stock air cleaner with the warm air hose connected to the snorkle will also help in moist and cold weather.

Fri Aug 02, 2019 1:47 am

Sigh!
Yet another 1600 with 009 distributor and a crome air cleaner. No matter how many halfbrain sales people and "engine guys" that claim this is a great idea, it is NOT!
Yes the manifold ought to have heat risers. But if you do not have them you have a problem. As suggested you should install the stock air cleaner again and use the proper preheat set up for the engine including the elbow that takes air from the cylinderhead. - It also looks like you have the wrong rear tin. Your model should have a 2" hole left of the right heater hose and none in the right side. The one you have looks to be an early version from a 1300/1500 model. when you get the stock air cleaner installed you also have a chance to meter just how much warm air you want the engine to have. The idea is to give it a lot of warm air at idle and lower rpms and little to no warm air at WOT
Next, thow that 009 after some angry birds :roll: Or just on a shelf and get the SVDA distributor that matches your carb. If you do not have the proper SVDA dizzy and need to go shopping anyway, you may want to do it a little different. Then you may keep the 009 and buy a CB Black box instead to control your timing. That is actually a good solution. Better than the stock SVDA, because its programmable and you can get a more modern timing curve and improve your mpg.

Fri Aug 02, 2019 5:38 am

Cant tell if thats a 34 or H30/31. Honestly the 30/31 with an 009 does work reasonably well. There are better options, but I see that combo quite a lot and have worked on many. I don't recommend them, but they are OK. Have used that air cleaner myself. Seemed to work fine.

So, bottom line for you is to drop the engine and replace the intake. Of course you want to make sure your exhaust has the proper fittings - very possible that you have a header without the flanges.

and it will be mentioned soon - relocate your fuel filter.

Fri Aug 02, 2019 7:17 am

Well my first questions on this post would have been, how does your
car run now with your setup? So how does your car run now with your setup?

Fri Aug 02, 2019 7:25 am

Wait till winter time or even fall on cool humid morning. You will have ice the intake manifold below the carb. Heat riser is required and well as the thermostat and flaps. The correct oil bath air cleaner will help as well.

Fri Aug 02, 2019 7:53 am

andk5591 wrote: Cant tell if thats a 34 or H30/31.
Looks like H30/31 to me, has single port intake manifold.

andk5591 wrote: Honestly the 30/31 with an 009 does work reasonably well. There are better options, but I see that combo quite a lot and have worked on many. I don't recommend them, but they are OK.
I run a Solex 30/31 PICT on an adapter on my dual port intake manifold on the 1600cc DP engine in my 1970. And with a vintage German 009 distributor, and it runs fine.

Fri Aug 02, 2019 7:36 pm

Got a replacement intake going on, and new exhaust since the current one doesn’t have the connections.

Sat Aug 03, 2019 5:50 am

not to be a pia but i already explained why you need the heat risers in your previous post( need vin help) 3 days ago....i'd copy and paste it and move it here except i completely lack computer skills

Sat Aug 03, 2019 5:51 pm

volksworld wrote: not to be a pia but i already explained why you need the heat risers in your previous post( need vin help) 3 days ago....i'd copy and paste it and move it here except i completely lack computer skills
Thank you.

Sun Aug 04, 2019 6:56 am

volksworld wrote: not to be a pia but i already explained why you need the heat risers

I have operational heat risers on the 1600cc engine in my 1970.

But on the 1835cc engine now in my 1971, the single Weber 40DCNF carburetor sits on a Thunderbird DP manifold without any heat risers, that's how it was when the kit was purchased new back in 1976. But that VW also is in Phoenix Arizona. Back then I had to make heat riser b lock off plates, they were not available commercially.

For the record: that engine runs tons better than it looks !!! Next time engine is out I will paint the tins black, but the engine hasn't been out in over a decade !!!

And don't necessary "copy" stuff from this engine, it's got stuff now "generally frowned upon", like external oil cooler, "thin wall" 92mm cylinders, no heat risers....but the 009 distributor is vintage German.

Wed Aug 07, 2019 5:50 am

Thru independent study, I have found that heat risers also benefit and work better with the proper gasket locations and having a stock muffler. Most aftermarket exhaust systems are not the best when it comes to proper venting for the heat risers.

Wed Aug 07, 2019 8:51 am

In other news...
What's the engine number?
That's a '67/'68 generator (push-on terminals), and the rear tin looks to be for the '67 dual snorkel air cleaner.
So I am betting that's an earlier engine in your '72. It may affect what parts you order to set it right.

Fri Aug 09, 2019 4:23 am

runamoc wrote: Thru independent study, I have found that heat risers also benefit and work better with the proper gasket locations and having a stock muffler. Most aftermarket exhaust systems are not the best when it comes to proper venting for the heat risers.

I suspected as much, so I am putting a factory muffler back on.

Fri Aug 09, 2019 4:25 am

KTPhil wrote: In other news...
What's the engine number?
That's a '67/'68 generator (push-on terminals), and the rear tin looks to be for the '67 dual snorkel air cleaner.
So I am being that's an earlier engine in your '72. It may affect what parts you order to set it right.

AD 033361 is the engine code.

Sat Aug 17, 2019 7:26 pm

Alstrup wrote: Sigh!
Yet another 1600 with 009 distributor and a crome air cleaner. No matter how many halfbrain sales people and "engine guys" that claim this is a great idea, it is NOT!
Yes the manifold ought to have heat risers. But if you do not have them you have a problem. As suggested you should install the stock air cleaner again and use the proper preheat set up for the engine including the elbow that takes air from the cylinderhead. - It also looks like you have the wrong rear tin. Your model should have a 2" hole left of the right heater hose and none in the right side. The one you have looks to be an early version from a 1300/1500 model. when you get the stock air cleaner installed you also have a chance to meter just how much warm air you want the engine to have. The idea is to give it a lot of warm air at idle and lower rpms and little to no warm air at WOT
Next, thow that 009 after some angry birds :roll: Or just on a shelf and get the SVDA distributor that matches your carb. If you do not have the proper SVDA dizzy and need to go shopping anyway, you may want to do it a little different. Then you may keep the 009 and buy a CB Black box instead to control your timing. That is actually a good solution. Better than the stock SVDA, because its programmable and you can get a more modern timing curve and improve your mpg.

I've been trying to find the proper tin to replace the rear tin. I appreciate you pointing that out. I'm not sure what to buy. I'm leery purchasing things specific to my model year, since I have so many parts that aren't model year correct, including the single port engine. The factory oil bath that came with it is apparently a '71. Am I looking for a rear tin for a '72 Super, a '71 so it works with the oil bath hoses, or a different model since it's a single port and has a few '67 or '68 parts here and there? I don't see where I'm supposed to put the large hose that comes off the oil bath for the preheat. The tins I'm seeing on have two holes and those are for the fan shroud hoses.

Sun Aug 18, 2019 7:23 am

any rear tin setup from 68 to 72 will work....it will have the 3 large holes ( 2 heater hoses, one heat pipe to air cleaner) and have the notch for your road draft tube...you need to get this tin as a set with the piece of tin behind the crank pully, as the dimensions and shapes of these 2 pieces changed through the years...they all fit the engine and the body but differ in relationship to each other...so say if you retain your original piece behind the pully and just buy the rear piece for a 71 there could be a huge gap between the pieces....new aftermarket tin is designed for " performance" applications and is based upon the pre 67 tin behind the pully and does not have the third hole for the hose to the air cleaner as it is assumed it will be used for dual carbs or a "performance " air cleaner...so you need used original stuff ....there is also a J shaped piece of metal tubing that mounts under the tin that ducts hot air off the r/s cylinder head into the engine compartment...a piece of big heater hose connects this duct to the stock air cleaner through that third large hole in the rear tin

Sun Aug 18, 2019 6:57 pm

volksworld wrote: any rear tin setup from 68 to 72 will work....it will have the 3 large holes ( 2 heater hoses, one heat pipe to air cleaner) and have the notch for your road draft tube...you need to get this tin as a set with the piece of tin behind the crank pully, as the dimensions and shapes of these 2 pieces changed through the years...they all fit the engine and the body but differ in relationship to each other...so say if you retain your original piece behind the pully and just buy the rear piece for a 71 there could be a huge gap between the pieces....new aftermarket tin is designed for " performance" applications and is based upon the pre 67 tin behind the pully and does not have the third hole for the hose to the air cleaner as it is assumed it will be used for dual carbs or a "performance " air cleaner...so you need used original stuff ....there is also a J shaped piece of metal tubing that mounts under the tin that ducts hot air off the r/s cylinder head into the engine compartment...a piece of big heater hose connects this duct to the stock air cleaner through that third large hole in the rear tin

Awesome. Thanks for the info!

Mon Aug 19, 2019 10:08 am

volksworld wrote: ....new aftermarket tin is designed for " performance" applications and is based upon the pre 67 tin behind the pully and does not have the third hole for the hose to the air cleaner as it is assumed it will be used for dual carbs or a "performance " air cleaner...

I'm assuming that it would be safe to use aftermarket tin as long as I make a hole for the preheat hose?