| e-square12 |
Sun Feb 03, 2019 11:20 am |
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I bought a used Solex 34 PICT 3 carb for my 74 Std (PN 113129031K). I have it in pieces right now working on cleaning all the bits on the ultrasonic cleaner I just got.
I have read about the issues with the throttle shaft bushings leaking gas and letting air in under vacuum. I was able to get the throttle shaft out but what I have looks different to the other pictures I have seen on the forum/internet. My carb only has one plastic split bushing instead of two. The right side of the carb has the split bushing but the left side has a brass one that is part of the throttle lever mechanism.
The carb has two levers which I believe means it would allow a throttle positioner to be installed. That said, the carb came with the dashpot which does not use that lever anyways. The *fast idle* is the one that has the brass bushing for the throttle shaft.
Question: With this type of carb would I only need to replace the one plastic bushing? Also looking for recomendations on where to buy the bushing(s). I read that some of the eBay ones can be hit or miss.
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| wcfvw69 |
Sun Feb 03, 2019 2:02 pm |
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Email Tim at volkzbitz.com
I don't know if he sells the bushing by themselves or not. I simply sent him my lower main body and had him install new bushing in my German 34-3 carb body. I then rebuilt/restored it when I got the parts back.
Best $ I could spend. |
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| e-square12 |
Mon Feb 04, 2019 3:39 pm |
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wcfvw69 wrote: Email Tim at volkzbitz.com
I don't know if he sells the bushing by themselves or not. I simply sent him my lower main body and had him install new bushing in my German 34-3 carb body. I then rebuilt/restored it when I got the parts back.
Best $ I could spend.
Thanks, I sent him an email to see if he sells them by themselves.
I also found another type of bearing in the MacMaster-Carr website that might work for this application (10mm OD / 8m ID). They are split bearings similar to the plastic one I found in the carb. This one has a steel casing with a Teflon insert backed by bronze. Saw a few of these on eBay as well for the 34 PICT 3. PTFE is Teflon - material compatibility with gasoline is not a problem. It is 10mm wide same as the original plastic one.
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| FeelthySanchez |
Mon Feb 04, 2019 4:08 pm |
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Be advised that bushing installation requires proper step drills & reamers ......
e-square12 wrote: I also found another type of bearing in the MacMaster-Carr website that might work for this application (10mm OD / 8m ID).
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| e-square12 |
Mon Feb 04, 2019 4:28 pm |
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FeelthySanchez wrote: Be advised that bushing installation requires proper step drills & reamers ......
e-square12 wrote: I also found another type of bearing in the MacMaster-Carr website that might work for this application (10mm OD / 8m ID).
Understood, thanks for the info. Based on the ID side of my carb I should be able to use a 10mm reamer for the bushing above.
Just waiting to see if anybody has any feedback on the left side busing that does not seem to be replaceable. |
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| e-square12 |
Sun Feb 10, 2019 3:50 pm |
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The bushings were a bit oversized on the steel casing. Since I bought two I tried sanding the casing of the first one on a drill but soon realized that wouldn't work. It required too much material to be removed.
The ID in the carb was big enough to go directly with a reamer. I bought a 10mm reamer and with a slow and steady pass managed to get the carb opening to the right size for the bearing to fit in. It was a snug fit with a nice press near the end. Shaft slides freely with no play whatsoever. Since the brass bushing on the other side was still good I decided to leave it as is. Final verdict will come after I finish rebuilding the carb and get in installed on the engine.
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| FeelthySanchez |
Mon Feb 11, 2019 11:13 pm |
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Nice work! All sounds well so far.
Now please advise us how warped the carb base flange is ...... does it rock at all when setting on a flat surface, like window glass? |
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| e-square12 |
Tue Feb 12, 2019 2:02 pm |
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FeelthySanchez wrote: Nice work! All sounds well so far.
Now please advise us how warped the carb base flange is ...... does it rock at all when setting on a flat surface, like window glass?
I need to clean the flange as it still has some residue from the gasket it had. As is, it does sit flat on a piece of plexiglass I have laying around. I am planning on sanding the mating surfaces a bit to make sure they are all flat. Already did the same to the intake flange from when I cleaned the H30/31 that came with the car. |
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| wcfvw69 |
Tue Feb 12, 2019 7:12 pm |
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| Pay attention the the mating flanges on the accelerator pump cover and where the cover lays against the body. Both surfaces on my German Solex 34-3 were warped a bit. I flattened them on level glass and it's perfect now. |
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| e-square12 |
Sat Feb 23, 2019 5:41 pm |
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Finally got some time to work on the carb rebuild. Just need to add green thread locker to secure the butterfly bolts and it is done.
Before...
After... :D
:?: Question: Is it ok to use blue Loctite on the two mounting studs?
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| gt1953 |
Sat Feb 23, 2019 6:49 pm |
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| That looks nice. Looks like Volksbiz finished product. Now let us know how it runs. |
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| Cusser |
Sat Feb 23, 2019 7:05 pm |
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e-square12 wrote: :?: Question: Is it ok to use blue Loctite on the two mounting studs?
Yes, OK; but lock washers will be plenty, that's up to you.
Loctite was a sister company of my employer, and their products were high quality, as are Permatex. |
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| e-square12 |
Sun Apr 21, 2019 6:21 pm |
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Got to drive the car around the block a few times today. I'll get some help to fine tune the idle later but with the basic setup instructions I got the 34 PICT 3 running ok. Tried some carb cleaner around the new bushing and there was no change in the RPMs. As I get some miles on the car this summer I'll keep an eye on it and report back.
If all goes well I'll post a summary of the tools and steps I took to use this type of bushing. |
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