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Thu Dec 27, 2018 7:41 pm

Greetings,

Friend showed me a link to Jay Leno talking with someone about his 55 vw bug, mostly original so talk obviously went to the six volt system.

With this Jay mentioned someone he knows who removes the innards of 6 volt DC generator, and replaces them with a 6 volt alternator which provides much better electrics; keeping the original generator casing.

I searched around to learn more about this but could not find anything except for converting 6 to 12 volts.

Does anyone know more about this? Just curious as it does seem to have benefits without the possible need to replace windshield wiper motor, etc like with changing to 12 volt system. Seemed like the 6 volt alternator would provide better juice.

Thanks

Fri Dec 28, 2018 12:08 am

Is this what you mean? It's called a "Gener-Nator"
Here is a link https://www.gener-nator.com/
As far as I know the VW generators are too small to install the parts to turn them into alternators but you can still ask by email.

Regards.

Fri Dec 28, 2018 6:55 am

I have seen stuff about that in Street Rodder and such. Never in the context of a VW. I can't see anyone investing in the time and work for such a limited market.

Fri Dec 28, 2018 8:06 am

Ovally,

What you linked is what I believe was mentioned,

"All Gener-Nator's can provide generally 2-3 times more power than the original generator."

Not that I will be getting one, but would be a help to my current generator if i did, and so am curious
I will make some inquires; costs, etc
Thanks!

Fri Dec 28, 2018 2:02 pm

Interesting service they have. Didnt see Porsche or VW for ones that have done. Good luck.

Fri Dec 28, 2018 8:01 pm

Just put in an inquiry, so will see.

Sat Dec 29, 2018 2:08 pm

mr matt wrote:
Does anyone know more about this? Just curious as it does seem to have benefits without the possible need to replace windshield wiper motor, etc like with changing to 12 volt system. Seemed like the 6 volt alternator would provide better juice.

You will get MUCH more bang for your buck by getting out all the voltage drops in the wiring and grounds instead. Even if you get a super duper higher Amperage output alternator, to get the real improvement you still will need to fix the wiring and grounds. Also helps to solder up the internal connections in the fuse box and headlight switch, did just this for a 1955 beetle owner and he was over the moon about how everything electrical was brighter, faster, louder.

Sun Dec 30, 2018 11:38 am

Hi Eric and Barb,

Not that I am getting this, just inerested in the info/cost they provide.
on my 54/55, every spring I go through all the grounds etc. and clean them up. but for as my passenger semaphore the volt there is not what it should be even with all associated terminals clean, and soldered. There is just too much resistance in the old wire. I was thinking of pulling a new wire through which should do it.
GPS runs only on higher rpms, when lower gps transfers to GPS battery, so would be nice to have that always run from the gen, not its internal battery instead of back and forth every change in rpm.
So just curious.
"High" beams, low idle during the turn, and then semaphores opperational mostly does not happen

Thanks Eric
Matt

Sun Dec 30, 2018 11:57 am

mr matt wrote:
"High" beams, low idle during the turn, and then semaphores opperational mostly does not happen

Have you soldered the internal connections in the headlight switch and fuse boxes??

Have you run a temporary wire to the battery ground terminal to test that semaphore wire for voltage drop? Also helps to clean the semaphore grounding points and apply dielectric grease.

Sun Dec 30, 2018 12:07 pm

Fuse box yes, opening the headlight switch box to solder in there, no.
As for the grounding wire to the semaphore, not sure, its been quite a while but grounding points yes

Sun Dec 30, 2018 12:59 pm

mr matt wrote: Fuse box yes, opening the headlight switch box to solder in there, no.
As for the grounding wire to the semaphore, not sure, its been quite a while but grounding points yes

Get the headlight switch soldered up ASAP. All the voltage to the ignition switch is from the headlight switch! All the semaphore voltage comes from the ignition switch. You can even solder up the ignition switch riveted connections on the outside of that switch to help get rid of voltage drops there.

Not sure what you mean "but grounding points yes", do you mean you cleaned and dielectric greased up the grounding points of the semaphore and the body where it contacts?

Wire not for grounding the semaphore long term, thus the "Temporary", for testing the stock semaphore wire for voltage drop with multi-meter. So with semaphore turned on to load the stock wire, how much voltage getting thru? Then check how much voltage at the battery. Say you have 7 volts at the battery and only 5.5 volts at the semaphore, then you are loosing 1.5 volts somewhere in the wiring. Would then next check at the semaphore switch coming out of it and going into it. If you find 7 volts there then the semaphore wire is the problem. If not 7 volts there you need to keep working back to find/fix the voltage drop/s.

When testing the wiring with ignition switch turned on to "Run" position, remove the points wire at the coil to keep the points from getting burnt up. Can instead turn engine till points are open to prevent burning also.

Sun Dec 30, 2018 1:09 pm

Here is a good read that covers on how to test for bad grounds, which was a good thing for us to learn recently. Plus a lot more good to know info there.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=711807

Sat Jan 05, 2019 9:55 am

Thanks so much for the info!!!, - sorry for the late reply, caught a bad virus. Will be looking forward to soldering the connections you mentioned.... was not aware of that, so appreciate your input on this, and your help.
Matt

Sat Jan 05, 2019 10:28 am

mr matt wrote: Thanks so much for the info!!!, - sorry for the late reply, caught a bad virus. Will be looking forward to soldering the connections you mentioned.... was not aware of that, so appreciate your input on this, and your help.
Matt

Glad to help! Flue has been going around here locally... Just make sure to use a big enough wattage soldering iron. Too small and you tend to more melt the plastic of those parts.

Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:48 am

OK, good point about the iron wattage.
Thanks

Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:57 am

Just to complete the post, here is the response I received a while ago re: replacing gen innards from https://www.gener-nator.com/
price is crazy to me, but again, I was just curious about what is provided

…………………………………………………………………………………………………………..

Matthew

Sorry, I don't convert those 90 MM Generators to a Gener-Nator because they are a bit too small for my components.

However, I do Upgrades for them which is when I change the internal components of the Generator for more amps and convert the V-reg. to all Electronic.

The cost for this upgrade is $595.00 exchange plus shipping with a 2-year warranty.

Right now about 5 weeks turn around time and payment is due at time of shipping to you.

If you Generator & V-reg. are date coded for your bug and you want to keep them that way you will need to send me them and if not then I can get a set ready and you can send me yours after.

I am sending a photo of your type with this email for reference.

Thank you and please let me know, or if you have any other questions.

Don Allen
--
Don Allen / Gener-Nator
85340 Hwy.101
Florence, Oregon, 97439 USA
541-902-2255
www.gener-nator.com

Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:44 pm

Not surprised at the cost at all. All hand work, small volume and lots of research. I even question if they are making much money at all on these.

Sun Jan 06, 2019 4:55 pm

So when he is done is the upgraded generator 12 volt, or still 6v? I think there would be a market for a combination of new field coils and a new solid state voltage regulator that would convert a small generator to 12 volts.

Sun Jan 06, 2019 5:58 pm

Expect it still to be 6 volts, and yes, the solid state VR is attractive. I put in an inquiry

Mon Jan 07, 2019 2:53 pm

His response

Matt,

Yes, it would still be 6-volt, just heavy duty and electronically controlled.

Thanks,

Don Allen